Rotorhead

11 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

You can do it yourself, following the federal guidelines and recording each item checked and it's condition.

That said, even though we're not required to have it, it's not a bad idea to really know your unit is in safe operating order.

That's for sure. I have been keeping my cars in great running condition for 40 years now. I don't want to be stuck on the side of the road when I can hopefully prevent it with good maintenance. 

Thanks for the information. It's always great to acquire more. 

3 minutes ago, jkoenig24 said:

As long as there is NO "commercial use" you shouldn't need a DOT inspection. Be careful though. It IS possible to "cross the line" and use your rig for something considered "commercial".

Roger that. I'll keep my toes on my side of the line. Thanks, I appreciate the information.

9 minutes ago, Larry Burkett said:

You do not need to have it DOT inspected.

Awesome, thanks Larry.

Hello All,

I have been meaning to ask for sometime but kept forgetting. Do any of you keep your DOT inspection current? I was going to but I don't think I need to since my rig is registered as a private truck. Since I am still new to the HDT, one year now, I still have questions.

Thoughts?

Chuck

On 5/15/2021 at 8:20 AM, Av8r3400 said:

Jack moved my hitch back to install the bed on our truck, I believe having it cantilever out of the frame a small amount.

Going to pick her up this week...
 

 

 

That looks awesome. I may have to get with Jack and see about getting mine built. I have to do the clutch and a few other things first though.

Chuck

On 6/7/2022 at 5:25 PM, GeorgiaHybrid said:

I have not, nor will I, ever stop at a scale unless forced to by law. We are registered as a motorhome and until they force all of the class C, super C and class A motorhomes to weigh, I will not. The scale houses are supposed to be for commercial vehicles only. How many of you have seen a DOT officer run a class A down to write him a ticket for bypassing the scales?

Very good point.

I would do another test with a different company soon. Just to compare and verify. Better to catch it early than wait and have more damage done if there is in fact fuel leaking into the oil.

Have you smelled the oil? If there is a high concentration of fuel in it it may have a stronger smell of fuel. 

Our safe space will always be invaded I’m afraid. 
What is a good dash cam that is easy to install? I am going to get one. It may just save my bacon over here on the 95 in Virginia.

Chuck

3 hours ago, spindrift said:

Our big truck doesn't pull our camper but I believe the question remains the same.  We're moving forward with our plans.  Hate to say it, but a part of me says screw Brandon, full steam ahead.  This administration is NOT going to stop us from what we love to do.  If need be, we'll adjust in other ways.

Right on! That’s what I am trying to do.

4 hours ago, ARGO said:

Based on personal experience, don't EVER let them see it. Small minds cannot grasp it being an RV.

Agreed. Just because it’s different from what you’ve seen before doesn’t mean it’s not legal.

29 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

As far as I know, the only state that has an issue with the actual hitch is Florida, and they don't allow ANY load bearing hitch on a motorhome.

Are you a motorhome?  Does your state (or any other state) differentiate between hitch types?

It is registered as a private truck. There isn’t a box for RV on the registration form in VA. Not sure about how they consider hitch types. I suppose I can give them a call or swing by a station/post. 

I have not gotten around to removing my commercial fifth wheel yet. My question is, will the Troopers have a beef with the truck being registered private and still having the fifth wheel? 

Chuck

Glad to hear he is on the mend.

Chuck

I had called the FMCSA to ask if I could take my truck up to Michigan and get a trailer to move my brother-in-law  and sister-in-law down to Florida. I told them my truck is registered private. They said as long as it is done private there was no problem with them. I asked about the weigh stations and they said I needed to call a field office in each state I was passing through and ask them. I didn’t end up doing it so I never called. 

36 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Cutting the line square isn't really important, as long as it's reasonably close.  I think the official recommendation is less then 15 degrees from square is okay. The oring doesn't seal against the end, but rather against the o.d. of the line.  In time, the line develops a "memory" and gets a groove in it.  Trim that part away.  Of course, as suggested above, that line is already likely too short, so the suggestion of a 90 degree fitting is spot on.

In general, if the fitting has the brass collar, like yours, then it has a replaceable oring.  Get some spares to keep in your air line repair kit.  Part numbers are to be found in the Resource Guide.

Awesome thanks rickeieio. Will do on the repairs and spares. 

4 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Yep, that is the way is goes pretty often

Haha. Keeps us busy. 

2 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Good idea to carry some replacement o-rings for those push fittings.  They are simple to replace and often time as well as a new o-ring, it is good to cut the tubing off square to get a new area of the tubing for the fitting to seal on.  It is important to also consider the comment about the strain on that tubing.  That will cause a leak based on the vibration from driving.  I like the idea to use a coupling and add some additional length to that tube or replace the entire length.  Sometimes replacing the entire length isnt practical or needed.

Thanks. Once I get a day free I will get in there and see exactly what’s going on. 
then the next leak will start. Haha

Cory,

I don't have any very cold winter experience with diesel so I can't give a real good answer. Personally I would Run it down to about a quarter and put that anti-gel additive in. Then when you go get it you can top off with fresh diesel. 

As to the cost. I feel your pain. I am in Virginia. I keep mine as full as I can. Maybe a little less now that it is getting hot, to allow for expansion. It took a while to get it full. I put some in each payday until it was full. Now I don't have to add more than 20-30 gallons at a time. About once a month.

See ya,

Chuck

15 minutes ago, geodog said:

 I will second what Darryl said. The line is too short to seat correctly in the compressor fitting. Either replace the entire line or splice in a short piece of air line. It looks to me as it is the unloader line to the dryer.

 

ShortyO

I do believe it does in fact run down to the dryer. I will go ahead and get some new line and fittings. I need to replace the dryer as well but that will have to wait until I get the clutch replaced next month.

Chuck

1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

The fitting in your pic is a simple "Push-to-connect" fitting. There's no ferrules inside. It looks like the tubing is bordering on being too short, causing side pressure on the tube/fitting connection. I'd either replace the tubing (preferable), or replace the fitting with a 90*. Don't forget the tubing absorbs water from the air, and becomes stiffer with time.

As far as compression fittings go, make sure you're using DOT fittings, not Home Depot generic fittings, and use a ferrule sleeve.

Thank you Darryl. I will certainly use you suggestion on the 90*. I will also make sure to get the DOT fittings and tubing.

Chuck

1 minute ago, rpsinc said:

If using a ferrule make sure to also use a sleeve for the inside of the tube.  Without the sleeve, it is more likely to have a leak since the sleeve provides some rigidity for the tube to be able to seal, since the tube, being plastic, will compress upon tightening.

Ok thanks. A small brass tube correct?

2 minutes ago, jkoenig24 said:

Just a guess here but I expect there would be a FERRULE (tapered copper ring) that slips over that blue (or is it green) tube and mates with a compression nut inside said fitting. If there was a ferrule and it got lost / misplaced  / broken, you'll need to get a replacement ferrule. The other possibility I can think of is that said colored tube is metal and has been flared to form a compression fitting (when properly assembled and tightened). Before reassembly, make sure all "mating surfaces" are clean and dry.

Thanks. I don't know why I didn't think of that. It is a plastic tube. I may even have some of the ferrule in my spare parts still. I have to replace the suspension on my CRV before I get to the air line. Prioritizing those never ending projects.

Hello All,

I have a currently small leak from a line coming off of the compressor. Does anyone know what the name of that fitting is? I had it off before to see if the line would reseat but didn’t see how it came apart like most of the other ones where you push in on the ring and pull the hose out.

I also suppose it’s possible to change to a different fitting.

Thanks,

Chuck

1 hour ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Recently our personal life underwent a significant change which has led to Donna and I electing to step down from hosting the East Coast Rally going forward.  Circumstances will not afford us the time to commit to a successful rally.  We have been the hosts for over a decade and truly want to thank all the volunteers and helpers we have shared the experience with over the years.  Without you, we could not have succeeded.  We have met many wonderful people and made some life long friends.  To dispel any curiosity, we are both doing well and the circumstances do not involve a health issue.  If anyone wishes to take up the reins, please contact me at ecrcarl at gmail.com and I will be happy to discuss.

Sorry to hear that. I hope all works out well for you guys! I am just getting into the HDT community. I am hoping to attend the ECR next year. Hopefully we can cross paths then.

Chuck

1 hour ago, Star Dreamer said:

We put our 5700# van in our Toyhauler. We have 5000# rated D Rings in 4 places for securing it and 2 additional ones to control bounce. 

 Be sure the D rings are bolted to the floor and not just screwed into the wood. Ours are through bolted and we have an 1-1/2 thick plywood floor. Our ramp door is rated for 5000# but I used a center support when loading the van as I was seeing a lot of bowing in the door. I do not use the center support for our SUV or the smart if I load them. 

Thanks for the information.