lockmup68

On 3/13/2017 at 11:20 PM, Chad Heiser said:

Technomadia has some good videos on the victron products they have installed, including the GUI interface remote.  They were beta users who gave feedback to help develop the remote interface.

 

Just watched the videos and the GUI remote is pretty cool. I like how you can see the input/loads from each source and draw (shore, batteries, solar, genset). and how much each is contributing. Does the Magnum give you the same info

Thanks. Yes, eventually, full deal. everything but solar at the moment. Solar later on in the year. 

I know many use the Magnum MSH3012 inverter/charger, but what about the 3000w Victron? I've always heard Victron was super expensive, but it appears cost was is on par with the Magnums now. Thoughts? I did some searching, but my google-fu is failing me.

Victron Multiplus 3000 12v

I just bound my policy with National General through Miller Insurance Agency (503) 636-6347. I am moving from Blue Sky due to the underwriting difficulties they are experiencing. My new policy has the same coverages and actually a better personal effects coverage and is $15 less than my Blue Sky policy. I specifically asked about coverage for tandem trucks since that issue was brought up here and my agent with Miller said it is usually not an issue. They did require pictures of my rig. Just wanted to get the info out there for those still searching for coverage. BTW I spoke with State Farm, Progressive, Farm and City, Allstate and this was the best (and cheapest) coverage for me in TN.

Mine is currently with Farm Bureau in TN, but I am not fulltime yet. They will only insure as add on to home or rental policy.

SWEET!!! Glad you got it fixed.

The finally figured it out and I picked it up Friday at 3 pm. Had to get the lettering on the truck, change out the back-up camera, get loaded up, Escape loaded up, and then on the road. Drove Nashville to St. Louis Friday night, arriving about 1 am. Saturday, lazy day to cousins in Kansas City, Sunday rolled in to Hutchinson. We are having a good time and learning.

Follow up.

Fixed the ABS light with a new harness from International. The harness was only $105, but figuring out the issue was 6 hours of shop time. The guy who stretched the rig used about 20 butt connectors instead of getting the longer harness and the voltage was dropping tremendously from front to back and I'm pretty sure there was a loose connection in there.

So new rear ABS harness and good to go. Trans is shifting beautifully now.

depending on what system you have on your truck, here are the blink codes and how to retrieve.

Bendix:

http://www.bendix.com/media/documents/products_1/absstability/truckstractors/134863.pdf

Meritor-Wabco

http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorWABCO_document/mm28.pdf

Mine is a switch under the dash labeled "ABS Blink" up is on, down is momentary. The bendix system had a button on the ECU behind the dash panel (depending on truck).

HTH,

Shannon

Brad,

The transmission needs front and rear wheel speeds to determine when to shift (as well as engine rpm). It also needs to see if you have a differential between front and rear wheels to see if wheel spin is happening.

This^^^^

If the light is on simply due to missing rear axle, it can still determine front to back wheel speed (from what I understand).

Deciphering the ABS blink code, I believe it is driver's side ABS sensor that is on the fritz.I'm hitting the international dealer tomorrow morn to find out.

HTH,

Shannon

Great information, Thanks. Wish mine had been as easy as ABS sensors

We'll see if it fixes it tomorrow. I've read that different internationals had the ABS hardware in different places, sometimes in drums, sometimes external, sometimes whatever they felt like. could be wires, tone rings, rust, etc. Heading to shop at 0700 on Monday. I'll let everyone know.

I would say, do call the freedomline support at ZF. I was about to head to mechanic and let them figure it out for hours. One old guy told me, "just get a big hammer and beat the hell out of the shifter side and it'll get going eventually. Them freedomlines get gunked up and stick."

Some follow up info for other freedom line owners.

Called the ZF freedom line support number (if you call the ontrac number in the manual, it transfers you over to ZF). All agents busy, but let's you leave a vmail for a callback. Guy named Jeff called back about an hour later. I had left a detailed message on truck and problem. Call was 3 min long.

He asked, "does SM code come on with the key or only when you shift into gear?" Only when shift into gear. "Let me guess, ABS light came on right when this happened, right?" Yup. So, if ABS light is on, trans will not operate in auto. Fine to run it in manual mode. Just get abs code fixed.

The trans CPU has to have speed inputs from all abs sensors in order to determine shifting, so if there is a bad signal, it disables auto mode as a safety precaution.

I asked him if there was any possibility of damaging anything in the trans running it until I get abs fixed, he said, "you will get worse fuel mileage."

Now to find a shop to get abs and AC fixed.

HTH,

Shannon

Try your local Volvo dealer for a Freedomline mechanic, most of them still keep their people up to date on that tranny or so my dealer says.

And the doubler is right on top of the transmission. It's right under the access hatch in the floor, but I'm told that a "good" mechanic can get it off from below.

Thanks a bunch.

Huh? It works for me.

 

So I went back to that thread and copied the link to the part.http://www.ase-supply.com/Sure_Power_41222_DC_to_DC_Converter_p/sp-41222.htm

Thanks a bunch. It will shift fine in manual, fwd, rev, skip shift, etc. Just will not go into auto mode. I followed the link to the manuals and tried to get the fault codes to display by pressing the neutral and function switches at same time, but no go.

Now the big question, where do I find a freedomline tech to look at it. Search on ZF shows one place in Louisville, nothing in Alabama, one in Arkansas, not looking good.

Really dumb newbie question, how do I find a good mechanic?

Completely non-related, the muffler fell off on way home from picking it up, was completely rusted out. I found a diesel shop and got a muffler and clamps and got it all fixed up this aft. The turndown (weedburner) is right in front of the air can on the front axle. Is there any recommended distance to be in front of it? I think It dumps about 6 inches in front of the can. Kind of in between the can and the diff.

Thanks,

Shannon

not only check fuses - but clean fuse holder(s) inside and out , and clean connections, every one you can find no matter how inconsequential .

-battery terminals .

-each end of the wires going to the doubler.

all of them.

 

hope that works ,it always does for me ......... every spring. :-)

so really dumb question, where is the doubler located and how do i get to it? underneath?

thanks,

Shannon

Hi all,

Found a previous topic that was locked that had this quote in it:

"web site and part number for the lower cost, domestically sourced, non-ZF voltage doubler that Big5er found when his truck was down." But no part number or website was listed. My google search fu is failing me, so I thought I would ask if anybody saved the info.

2003 International 9200i (bluenoser's old rig) ISX and freedomline, SM code on display. Shifts fine manually, skip shifts, fwd and rev, just won't go into auto mode (arrows do not come on.) Going to trace the wires to battery and check fuses as per other discussion. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks and have a great day,

Shannon