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DanZemke

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Posts posted by DanZemke

  1. 19 minutes ago, Barbaraok said:

    This thread has shown that most people now recognize that we are all in this together, that doing the simple things like wearing a mask and keeping physical distance is helping to slow down the spread and allow us to have somewhat a normal life.

    Agreed, but it's also shown that "most people" ignore the unintended consequences of policies that discourage hiring innocent workers like Glenn.

    I'm for wearing masks and social distancing.  I'm also for policies that enable Glenn to get back to work.

  2. 1 hour ago, docj said:

    What I look for when buying tires are those that are rated for "all position" use and I prefer styles that are advertised for "regional or urban" use" rather than those primarily focused on long haul trucking.

    I think this applies to HDT RVers, like me, as well.

    Thanks.

  3. 1 hour ago, GlennWest said:

    I don't believe unproven science. 

    Glenn,

    I don't believe in unproven science either.

    You appear to be suffering, due to something, that most other posters in this thread, are not suffering from.  Specifically, you're young enough that you still need to work to survive, and your opportunity to do so has been dramatically reduced.  I'm no longer working either, but I do empathize with you and you're wife's situation.

    I also have significant experience in statics and econometrics.  With that hat on, the current state of Covid-19 risks and responses is all about the odds.  If the USA had relied on local experiences or a mandate of absolute truth, seat belts probably would not be mandatory in the USA.  But viewed from an overall odds perspective, seat belts dramatically reduced injuries and fatalities.  This is old news, but IMO a reasonable analogy for addressing the current uncertainty with our Covid-19 response.  We're just earlier in the cycle and only have indications of what to do, rather than statistically proven results.

    So I have a suggestion.  View this discussion as a conversation about the odds.  Seldom is anyone "right" or "wrong".  It's about the odds of a more likely result.  And consider that some folks are presently focused on today's very difficult reality, and others are imagining would it could be like in the future.

    Best wishes to you.

  4. On 8/28/2020 at 12:57 PM, Zulu said:

    That slime is biofilm which will probably be present regardless of the how much chlorine is present. In fact chlorine disinfection may "select out" less harmful bacteria in favor of deadlier pathogens (see Reduced Chlorine in Drinking Water Systems).

    For tank sanitation, I've switched to Purgene instead of bleach.

    After reading the link you provided and poking around the web about Sodium Clorite and Chlorine Dioxide,  My impression is that Purgene (or maybe West Marine's equivalent) makes sense for an annual, or semi-annual water system disinfection.  It's more expensive than Clorox Bleach but appears to be a superior agent.  For me, it would be a trivial cost for twice a year.  Thanks for the information you provided.

    I'm not convinced that it makes sense for me, to continuously use Sodium Clorite more frequently than semi-annually.  Are you using it continuously, and if so why?  

    Also, I was unable to find anything about shelf life.  I've asked RV Water Filter Store, but have not received a response yet.  Do you know what it is?

    Thanks.

     

  5. Glen,

    Sympathy.

    With that big of an air leak you and/or your wife should be able to hear it.  Pump it up to 120 and shut off the truck, pop the hood and listen closely near the fan (many HDT's have an air actuated fan clutch).  If no good, listen near the firewall (often times lots of airline connections there).  Next leveling valve in the rear that controls the air to the rear air bags. Then check near the air dryer.

    There's a device can often be helpful in finding the leak location.  Maybe a HDT owner near you has one that you could borrow.

    https://www.amazon.com/INFICON-711-202-G1-Whisper-Ultrasonic-Detector/dp/B000TRJA8M

    Good Luck!

  6. 6 minutes ago, DJohns said:

    I understand the concept but after the money is in your account what keeps you from not signing over the title. I like the escrow service better.

    For my truck and trailer, trust and extensive conversations about who they were.  Also in those two cases I was able to arrange a face-to-face transfer that reduced the risk for the buyer (me) and the seller. 

    For the truck, the retired driver drove the truck to LAG airport in NY.  I met he and his wife there and paid for their return airplane fares back to West Virginia. 

    For the trailer, I contacted with a commercial towing service to tow it from TX to a storage lot in NY.  The commercial tower called 2 days before the scheduled time and said they had underbid couldn't find a trucker to do it at the price they quoted me.  And they currently didn't have anyone to tow it at any price.  I dropped them and negotiated with the trailer owner to come up with an acceptable price for both of us, for him to personally deliver it, and drive his truck back.

    For the $4K SUV, I took a cab to Brooklyn from CT and met her (a recent college grad who had driven the SUV from KS to NY and decided she didn't need a car in NYC) at a gas station parking lot.  I briefly inspected the car.  We went to a local Bank of America branch, exchanged paperwork, and BofA cut her a cashiers check using money in my account while we stood there.

    If the escrow cost is cheaper than the potential expected loss,  I'd go with escrow too.

    Good luck

  7. Where they choose to store it is irrelevant to you.

    IMO, the full-purchase price money and title transfer should occur simultaneously.  That can be done via an escrow service, or through the use of agents to do the swap.  Anything else requires significant trust from both of you. 

    Establishing the trust (and how much risk you are willing to take) varies widely, based on the transaction and your trust that you will actually get paid.  I purchased my Volvo Truck from a seller on ebay for a bit over $20K, and my trailer for a bit over $100K and a recent SUV for $4K.  I took substantial risk in all cases, because I was confident that the sellers were straight shooters.   But in each case the final transaction was consummated with a face-to-face meeting.

    P.S. Standard, or Cashier's checks posted to your account aren't necessarily valid deposits.  You need to call your bank to find out if they have "cleared" before you can count on them.

    Best wishes on you transaction.

  8. 1 hour ago, docj said:

    I'd much rather get a Spam text than an annoying automated phone call.  I can ignore and/or easily delete a text.Answering the phone is more intrusive IMO.

    So would I.  My phone has a feature named Call Screen.  When I get a call that is in my contacts list, it rings.  If the call source is not in my contacts, the call is answered by Google Assistant which tells the caller that their call is being answered by my automated assistant.  And then asks them to record their message.  

    I haven't received a single voice spam call that has rung through, since turning on the Call Screen feature.  Call screen is only available on Google Pixel phones at this time.   Hopefully, it and/or something like it will become widely available.

  9. 1 hour ago, Randyretired said:

    I have never had a problem with sewer flies either. However any house built to code has sewer vents and insects can access the sewer lines and septic tanks through the vents. It is not a sealed system.  RV's also have vents into each waste tank so insects or ? can access those tanks as well.

    Yes, I forgot about my roof vent which ties into the drain system.  Good point.

    To me, the key questions are: where are the sewer flies coming from and how is the infection propagated?  For most conventional houses there is no source.  And if a house does become infected, there's little danger of propagation to others because of the very long pathway for transmission.

    RV parks are much different. Folks are connecting their waste hoses from a wide variety of locations to a community tank.  Transmission is much easier for those connected.  There is no social distancing to reduce the transmission rate.

    I vaguely recall Derek/RV had some evidence that "sewer flies" (don't recall if it was the adult flies or larva) could easily penetrate a U-trap.  Perhaps, he'll chime in on this.

     

  10. 13 hours ago, Dutch_12078 said:

    If the U-trap doesn't stop them, why don't we see them in residential fixtures that are only protected by S or P water traps?

    I agree with you that I've never had a problem with sewer flies in a conventional sticks and bricks home.   My first 4 houses were connected to a city sewer system and I suspect they are systemically designed to prevent sewer fly intrusion. 

    But my current house uses a traditional,  private backyard septic system.  A large pipe from my home connects to a 500 gallon tank which connects to a leach field.  The only time the tank is exposed to the open air is for about an hour, when it is pumped out every other year.

    I know nothing about the life cycle of sewer flies.  But it appears there is no way for them to get into the sealed concrete tank or the pipe connecting the tank to my house.  The only entry point would appear to be to burrow down through 2 feet of soil in the leach field and migrate through the pipes up to my house.  I suspect that this provides a more effective barrier than water traps.  And that's why conventional homes don't have problems with sewer flies.

     

     

  11. 8 hours ago, Mark and Dale Bruss said:

    For me I opened the hood and stood up on the engine and reached as far as I could up the roof, about 1/3 of the way.  The rest was natures problem. 

    Me too.  Except I use a mop-like head with soapy water on a pole, and can reach about 2/3s of the way up.   Good enough.

  12. 45 minutes ago, Pat & Pete said:

    I thought monopolies were illegal . 

    Only when our judicial system has declared a party to be a monopoly.  To the best of my knowledge, that has not happened.  Do you have contrary evidence?

  13. 3 hours ago, RoamingRanger said:

    Another follow-on question. The Volvo 780 layout with the workstation looks appealing assuming we could install proper seat belts across the two benches. Is there enough room on either bench to safely put two or three kids?

    I have an older Volvo model 770, with a workstation configuration.  I suspect the dimensions are very similar to that of a 780's.  My seat length is 43", so two of your children per seat would probably work well.

    But, perhaps more importantly, with your children restrained in non-contoured seats, the seat belts would not help much, if you were involved in a head-on or rear impact collision.  The force wouldn't be pushing them back into their seat.  The belts would still prevent ejection which is a big safety plus.

    As you know, safety factors used to be much less stringent.  I remember going to YMCA base ball and foot ball contests in the back of a pickup with about a dozen of my teammates, without seat belts or seats of any kind.

    Would it be safe to put two or three kids on each bench?  "Safe" is all about odds.  Only you and your wife can make that call.

    A possible alternative configuration, that would cost you more money, would be a more conventional seating arrangement.  A row of 4 seats, with individual seat belts, facing forward.  You might even be able to have two fold-down table surfaces (one on each side of  your truck) that would give them some table space in front of them.  For for less expense, a custom table, hinged in the middle, which attached to brackets on each interior side of your truck.

    Good luck!

    Dan

     

     

  14. 2 hours ago, Sculptor said:

    Thank you Dan. I have seen some windows computers with a custom enclosure. I have had my Mac apart and can’t imagine an easy way to do it. 

    I suspect those windows computers with custom enclosures weren't populated with vintage tower parts.  

    Old computer parts produced much more heat for less performance than current parts.  Your Mac aluminum tower doesn't just look good, it has a relatively thick aluminum case that acts as a very good heat radiator.  Trying to fit hot parts in a small case that doesn't radiate heat as efficiently generally doesn't work.

    Suggestion: clearly define in your mind (hopefully writing it down to clarify your thoughts) what "set up just the way I like it" means.  And define what you mean by a "smaller" (e.g.  iMac or Mac Mini?).   And would you be OK with used device?

    Hopefully you can find a Mac enthusiast or consultant that can configure you replacement computer to work the way you like it.

    Based on what you've said, your choices certainly aren't limited to a laptop, if that is not what you want.

  15. Here's an informative video about Starlink.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ei0eapghhGE user antennas and the infrastructure to support them.

    If your using a metered internet connection, consider setting YouTube to 240p to dramatically reduce your data usage. 

    The same guy has posted several subsequent videos.  I viewed all of them through July 15.  But in my opinion, there is little useful Starlink information in the follow-ons.  The primary purpose seems to be to hype his YouTube channel. Albeit, in one, he seems to be promoting himself to Starlink as a potential evangelist for the company. 

    If you're a real techy, the July 15th one does show snapshots of actual source code for  customer service. 

    The code shown is very specific about the range of acceptable latitudes for the Beta as:  44.9 to 51.8.  But these could be easily changed in a few minutes, so they may or may not be the actual ones used for the Beta.

  16. 5 hours ago, Sculptor said:

    I wonder if there is a way to take the internal components and install them in a smaller box?  Has anyone done this?

    Sculptor - practically, there isn't.    BTW,  your older Mac aluminum tower is an iconic design.  Sorry it's too big for your RV.

    The principal reason is that several of the parts inside won't fit in a smaller box. 

     

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