Problems with lighting Dometic 3 way fridge

[JPV]

I have problems getting my Dometic 3 way fridge ( model RM2354) to light on LP. No spark from electronic igniter. If I cool it down on AC for an hour I can switch to LP and light it manually and it will stay lit. On emits cold I can relight it by removing either of the two wires from a small orange box above the gas valve and the electron. Ignitornwi spark and light the burner. It will spark as long as the wire is disconnected and relight as soon as I reconnect the wire. My question is which part is bad? Is it the igniter, the thermocouple or what? I don't want to start buying parts I don't need. Can someone advise?

[Kirk W]

Welcome to the Escapee forums. We will do our best to help you figure things out. In reading your question I don't think that I completely understand your problem. I was unable to locate a service manual for that specific model but did find the installation/operation instructions from the Dometic site and if you don't have a copy, you may want to download a copy.

 

If you don't mind I'll ask a few questions to try and understand just what is happening. By "three way" do you mean that your refrigerator can cool from propane, 12V-dc only, or from 120V-ac? After cooling on 120V-ac, how are you lighting it, with a match or butane lighter or by cycling it off and back on? Which wire is it that you remove to get the ignition circuit to fire? Do you know that the thermistor inside of the cool box is calling for more cooling of might it be that it is cooled to the set temperature? The flame doesn't burn all of the time in normal operation but cycles off when the set temperature is reached and then reignites once the temperature inside rises again. If you are getting sparks there is little chance that the ignition probe is failed. There really isn't enough information here to be able to accurately trouble shoot the problem. Is the orange box you mention the cover over the main circuit board or perhaps something else? Is there any writing on that box?

 

 

MODES OF OPERATION

AUTO mode - AES/AUTO mode

When operating in AUTO - AES/AUTO mode, the AUTO -

AES/AUTO mode indicator lamp is illuminated. The

control system will automatically select between AC and GAS operation.

AC has priority over GAS. Should AC become unavailable, the

system automatically switches to GAS. As soon as AC becomes

available again, the control will switch back to AC regardless

of the status of the GAS operation.

If the CHECK indicator lamp is illuminated the controls have

failed to ignite the burner in the GAS mode. To restart an igni-

tion attempt with the CHECK lamp illuminated (or to turn off

the CHECK lamp), press the ON/OFF button OFF and back

ON again. The control system activates the ignition system and

makes three attempts to light the burner for a period of approx.

45 sec. at two minutes interval. Should 120 V AC become

available while the CHECK indicator lamp is on, the CHECK

lamp will not turn off until the ON/OFF button is pressed OFF

and then ON again

[JPV]

Thanks for the reply Kirk. By 3 way I mean AC/DC and LP. I can light the burner with a butane lighter but only after the unit has cooled with AC power. Once the burner is lit I can't get the igniter to spark unless I remove one of the wires connected to the one inch square plastic box located above the gas valve. When I remove the wire the burner goes out and the igniter starts sparking and when I reconnect the wire the gas valve must open because the burner lights. This is the only way I can get the fridge to work on LP.

Thanks for the help.