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Kirk W

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Posts posted by Kirk W

  1. It probably has a 3 pin plug similar to the yellow one posted by Gary. If all that you want to do is to use the lights and perhaps operate the refrigerator, There are adapters that you can use to connect either cord to a typical household outlet but you will not then be able to use the air conditioner or the microwave. 

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  2. Do you remember CC, the retired San Antonio police LT. who used to be on these forums and talked about his Bounder diesel with the garbage truck transmission? He did exactly what you are considering. He always kept a HEPA filter in it and it had a heat pump unit so was used a lot. CC was one of the best home fabricators that I have ever known. He was very active on these forums from about 2000 up to about  2015 when he passed away.

  3. I strongly suggest that if you are domiciled via Escapees in Livingston, you need to contact Polk Co.Asscessor's office before you buy the car.   Phone: (936)327-6801 That is where you must register the car and they can/will tell you exactly what you need to do. 

     

  4. 6 minutes ago, Ken Abel said:

    Maybe charging the vans batteries did the trick?

    While I wouldn't think that was the cause, it may be possible, depending upon how the circuit is designed and without seeing more information about the control circuit board than they share it is impossible to be certain. I think that I'd just keep a close eye on things and see what happens. 

  5. You didn't say where you are located, but the model that you show is not sold in the US or Canada so I'm guessing that you are in either UK or Australia?

    In researching, I did locate a copy of the Owner's Manual and also a copy of the Dometic Service manual and you can download a copy of each. I have worked on a lot of Dometic refrigerators over the years, but only US models so my knowledge is pretty limited. I did locate a copy of the schematic on page 19 of the service manual and the same one on page 20 of the owner/installation manual. Since they are the same and it appears that the on/off switch you have and all control functions are located on that one circuit board. All control functions are powered by 12V, direct current so removing that supply would disable all functions of the refrigerator. Starting on page 30 of the service manual there is a process to enter a diagnostic mode and test various components, but I found no way to test the on/off switch. If you have a multimeter you should be able to do that using the ohm scale. Beyond that, all that I can suggest is trying the circuit board as your Dometic tech guy suggested.

  6. 1 hour ago, lappir said:

    It's a 10 gallon electric/propane.

    That means that the model probably is SW10DE.  It has two sets of thermostat & ECO, one for 120V and the other for propane operation.  (see page 18 of the manual)

     

    1 hour ago, lappir said:

    It does heat on 120 volt and that's the voltage I have tested for. Haven't tried any of the 12 volt, which it uses I'm pretty sure for the ignition of the flame.

    You are correct in that the 120V heating element is controlled separately, via it's own thermostat and ECO. If you look at the schematic on the left side of page 10 of the manual you will see that it is a very simple circuit, with a black wire bringing in power to the on/off switch, then black to the thermostat & ECO, black to the heating element, and then a white wire for neutral or the return side.

    To the right of that schematic is the 12V/propane schematic and 12V supply is red wires with a yellow negative or return. Since there is no connection of any kind between the 120V heating and the 12V/propane side, either one should work just fine with the other turned off. The 120V circuit breaker would have no effect at all on the operation on propane so long as you have a good battery to supply 12V for the propane controls. That circuit board not only supplies the spark but it has a flame sensor to shut the propane supply valve that it also controls, if the flame should ever fail. As you can easily see from the two drawings on page 10, the two systems are completely independent of each other. 

    Since you have had two 120V thermostats fail, I strongly suggest that before you do anything else you need to remove 120V power and then using your ohm meter, measure from either side of the heating element to ground (any metal part of the water heater) and also read across the heating element to see what resistance it has. The heating elements can short out or shore to ground (the metal tank) and either one could cause the problems that you have described. If you lift one lead from the heating element and measure through it, the resistance should be 10 ohms, give or take 1 or 2 ohms. From either terminal to the tank of the water heater should read very close to infinity ohms.

     

  7. 6 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

    So is it possible that the switch area problems could raise resistance, lower the voltage enough to raise the amperage going through that wire, to go up and cause a failure?

    If the resistance of the switch should increase that would cause part of the voltage be lost there and so lower the voltage seen by the heating element. Two resistances in series add and with higher total resistance the current flow will decrease. Ohm's law applies here so voltage divided by resistance will give you the amps in the circuit. If voltage drops or resistance increases, either one will cause current flow to decrease. 

    22 hours ago, lappir said:

    I've used my multi meter to check voltages, but not resista

    It would help if you would tell us what model Suburban water heater you have as there are differences. Also, is your water heater a propane only model or does it also heat from 120V shore power? What voltages have you read and where did you read them? Here is a link to download a copy of the current Suburban service manual that I believe applies to your water heater. If I'm right the schematic you need is on page 10.

  8. Find more information about:

    EMERGENCY FUND – grants for Nomads without resources who are in an unexpected emergency. 

    TENT PROGRAM – tents for Nomads with an emergency need for shelter.

    BYOV – grants for Nomads-in-need to improve their vehicle-homes (BYOV=Bring Your Own Vehicle).

    VEHICLE GRANTS – homes on wheels – currently suspended until covered by insurance.

    ONLINE BULLETIN BOARD – mobile-community connections – post what you have to offer, post what you need.

    RUBBER TRAMP RENDEZVOUS – RTR & Women’s RTR – Nomads gather in January in the desert southwest.

    IN-PERSON CARAVANS – Nomads share a two-week camp locations to find and build community.

    VIRTUAL CARAVANS – a welcoming community that meets on Zoom to discuss the nomadic lifestyle.

    FACEBOOK COMMUNITY – talk about all things nomadic, find campmates, make plans for the RTRs.

     

    Tel: 775.764.8115,  www.homesonwheelsalliance.org, is a 501(c)3 charitable organization registered with the Nevada Secretary of State, pursuant to Title NRA 82A.200. Its purpose is to assist seniors and the working poor with unconventional housing as shelter. Contributions may be tax deductible pursuant to provisions of Sec. 170(c) of the Internal Revenue Code of 1986, 26 U.S.C.§170(c).

  9. 10 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

    The wires did show full voltage when I had a meter on the wires.

    If you measure the voltage on any open circuit the meter will always read source voltage. Only when current is flowing through a circuit can you measure the amount of voltage that is being dropped across each item in that circuit. A fuse can and sometimes does fail when it has not blown and so must be measured with an ohm meter to know for sure if it is good or bad. If the fuse is good it should measure less than 1 ohm but I have seen them occasionally get up to 5 ohms or more and still appear as good. 

  10. Here are some links to articles that I have read which may be related to your difficulties. I have no direct experience with any "Advantage" plan as we have original Medicare and a part G supplement, the cost of which is reimbursed by an HRA from my previous employer. 

    Medicare Advantage Is a Massive Scam   BY RYAN COOPER, APRIL 29, 2022

    'Deny, deny, deny': By rejecting claims, Medicare Advantage plans threaten rural hospitals and patients, say CEOs   By Gretchen Morgenson, Oct. 31, 2023

    Is Medicare supplemental insurance worth it?   BY MATT RICHARDSON, SEPTEMBER 15, 2023

    Medicare Advantage increasingly popular with seniors—but not hospitals and doctors  BYJULIE APPLEBY AND KAISER HEALTH NEWS, November 30, 2023 

    The pros and cons of Medicare Advantage plans    BYRICHARD EISENBERG, August 9, 2023

  11. Not being familiar with GEHA, I did an online search and found this.

    Plans are offered by GEHA and insured through UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company or one of its affiliated companies, a Medicare Advantage organization with a Medicare contract. Enrollment in the plan depends on the plan's contract renewal with Medicare. Benefits, features and/or devices vary by plan/area.

  12. 2 hours ago, patn said:

    The Original poster said join SKPs and get an address? Then registration etc falls into place.....did he mean a mail address from a private box company?

    You are using a public forum that is provided by the Escapees RV Club and what he was saying is that if you join the Escapees and get your needed address from them, you will also find the needed support for what you wish to do. 

    2 hours ago, patn said:

    The whole registration/insurance seems tricky in the USA compared to Australia where I live. 

    It isn't so much that it is tricky as that you are in a different country with very different laws so things are different here. States are far more autonomous than are your provinces. I suggest that you take some time learn about things here, starting with Australian Perspective which was written by an Australian member of these forums. I assure you that as one who has spent time in Australia, things seem just as different when we visit you but deep down we are pretty much the same. If you do this, I think that you will find that the US is a very friendly place with mostly welcoming people.

  13. 12 hours ago, kb0zke said:

    I realize this thread is a couple of years old, but I thought I'd add an experience we had this summer while hosting. A camper left a site pretty messy.

    Back in the summer of 2001 we were campground hosts in a state park in Kansas. One morning as I was about to make rounds of our campground the lead park LEO happened by and went with me. We found a site that had been left early that morning that was a total mess with trash everywhere. The LEO got on his radio, then told me to hold of cleaning it up. About 45 minutes to an hour later the previous occupants returned to the site, escorted by a member of the Kansas Highway Patrol. The LEO met them as they arrived and they were soon busy cleaning the site, to meet the requirements of the two observing officers. No ticket was given and after about an hour of work the folks were allowed to continue on their way. If it matters, the folks did have Kansas license plates. In our experiences the Kansas state parks are among the cleanest that we have spent time in and I suspect that we now know why. 😊

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