FULLTIMEWANABE

Welcome Dennis. Right now since 'C' started, the RVing arena has changed exponentially due to supply and demand, albeit demand was increasing leading up to as well we noticed. To each their own, but I personally would hold off joining most anything unless you can see immediate benefit to you. For example we joined Passport America for just one year in June 2018, as a trip with a cousin flying in from Ireland to join us meant we could save 50% at the Oasis Las Vegas (2 x 3 nights at start and end of trip), and again in Santa Barbara and the Napa Valley. However, I noted the following year Oasis was no longer being offered on Passport America. As demand has increased in fact fewer CG's/Resorts are offering deep discounts. When we plan a trip I cross reference if needed what CGs in the vicinity are Passport America affiliates and the options have diminished immensely from 3+ years ago. Many lately are saying that Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Hosts are becoming harder and harder to get into lately as well, so another reason to check things out before parting with your money and finding your travel groove. Some join Thousand Trails and then find it too restrictive for their travels trying to be at the specific offerings, but feel they need to divert to use their membership having paid for it. Lots lately saying they can't get in to many of the places in the programme either for various reasons. Some sound advice above, research your options for mail forwarders, where you are domiciling, and checking into CG's, try travelling without parting with large monies initially unless you can evidently see an immediate "we will use" saving. It's a bit like gift cards from stores, they know there'll be many buying and several never using them. Safe and Happy Travels. FTW.

Sadly and it's all third hand chit chat, but we are hearing a lot of folks trying to test the system through ArriveCan (Think I got that right?), and they are basically not admissible (might be too premature date start wise??). Also with test having to be within 72 hrs (test not results!) it's going to be quite the challenge. Too many hoops and loopholes sadly to get too excited, but with that said do agree in protecting ourselves from both sides of the fence as priority No 1 first and foremost. Lot of folks up here are anticipating as fast as they propose this 9th August opening that it'll be halted again. Out of curiosity we closely monitor the UK, and they opened up fast and furious on flights etc a while back with no quarantine, and then due to high numbers, started shutting down again. They are still at around 50,000 cases a day but from Monday are saying fully opened. We are cognisant of the land mass and the population size density wise which plays a big part on close proximities for spread and so on we'd think. Alas, it still looks like we are a long ways away from any form of "once upon a time leading to happily ever after". Finding myself humming Vera Lynn lately = We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when, but I know we'll meet again some sunny day" Stay safe everyone, and enjoy what travels you can whilst you can in your country.

Just announced couple hours ago, that we are opening up 5 more airports (besides the major 4) and our border to welcome fully vaccinated USA Citizens and permanent residents again. Certain rules/test but a step in a positive direction, especially for those transiting to Alaska etc. Looking forward to the USA's response hopefully due soon. https://travel.gc.ca/travel-covid/travel-restrictions/border Looking forward to welcoming back all our friends from down south August 9th. YEAH!

For us we have always budgeted for our trips, and have allowances for things we typically don't use often ie; CG's = "just in case". For our fuel costs it was based on $3/gallon for the few years leading up to 2019, and now going forwards we will budget based on $4/gallon. So typically we over budget quite a bit in case the prices go up exponentially during our travels or we hit California LOL. So we allow a lot of wiggle room, and if everything hits the fan, then bang goes our emergency fund. Or as they say "for everything else there's MasterCard". Seriously though, with reduced incomes the past 18 months or so and for some due to lockdowns the ability to save a lot of money because of the closures on eating out, other activities, we all have to trim our cloth to suit our pockets as the saying goes. Avid casino goer friends of ours saved tens of thousands in the past 6 months while they were closed here, now they are donating it back. Generally speaking "within reason", and what that "reason" is I don't know, we will continue to keep travelling when allowed and enjoy what we can with our old gal. Some trips during high priced fuel years will be closer to home, or more spaced out to compensate and fit our budgets like many others will do I'm sure. We control what we personally can and that we can't......... we don't sweat it

Thanks Barbara, heat wave aside we are in full celebration here (restrictions of course). Hope to see our cousins south of the border by this upcoming winter as well. Wishing you all a Happy 4th of July weekend as well.

Thanks Linda, as Kirk pointed out and we can contest to having our own well here, it's amazing what can come through from a well. Good point Kirk on the sediment filter for sand, didn't think about that but should have! I'll keep researching but the Aqua Crest Filters seem to be only at 20 microns, wouldn't I need something around 5 to ensure quality drinking water? Just a thought and just by reading I know nothing much about water filtration other than our whole house system I had installed 18 years ago that cost $10K back then, and now requires extortionate priced filters today ($600 every 6 months, when used to last several years!), thinking our well water has changed somewhat or the system is tiring deeper than we can clean easily and we've rebed, albeit we have the system serviced regularly as well doing ourselves in-between. Again thank you, and anyone else cares to share I'll keep an eye, as well get googling lots more. LOL

Thanks as always folks. As routine we do sanitise our tanks at least once/twice a year depending on usage/sitting around unused and climate. Have always used a pressure regulator for system protection. We are ideally looking for a less robust filtration at the faucet to hose end (just to remove any bugs, leaves etc to avoid blocking pipework), and has been pointed out keeping some chlorine present in the FW tank that feeds to. Maybe a cleanable small mesh one??? Then, our next option, was hoping to do away with our carrying containers for drinking and cooking water (we don't use bottled water but 3 stage reverse osmosis filtered from our acreage we carry or the water fill stations enroute). We'd basically like to find a reasonable, easily accessible replacement for the Shurflo waterguard RV10 original installed under the sink to give us cooking and drinking water. We really don't want to get into changing out hoses/fittings etc, or installing a 3 or 4 cartridge system, so as mentioned initially it needs to fit about the size pipework of what you see at the back of fridge/freezer ice makers, and it fits into a holder underneath the kitchen sink. Anyone with this type of set up thanks for sharing make and models you might be using and typically how often you are changing them out. So appreciated. This is what we currently have but seems a little steep on price, or maybe I'm just out of touch on these, and wondering if there's an alternative for the drinking water side: https://www.amazon.ca/SHURflo-RV-210GH-Waterguard-line-Filter/dp/B0000AXV3T

Thanks everyone always good and sage advice forthcoming here😊 whj469, for simplicity we were thinking of a higher micron initial external connect to hose from faucet and also, then replacing the old under sink Shurflo waterguard RV10 one with something more readily available but same size fittings for the pipework that would improve taste and be of maybe 5 microns or better. No currently we don't drink from our tank, just dishes and showers but we'd like to eliminate carrying extra containers for drinking and cooking, as we have been doing for the past several years.

Thanks to you all for your input and the resolution. Happy to say we managed our first 3 night visit to Pine Coulee Reservoir for fishing and kayaking last week (Mon to Thu) and it was heaven. Missed being out so much in the old gal and slept like a dream. Now planning for many trips around Alberta the rest of this year, just trying to steer clear of the July and August mayhem that no doubt will ensue as schools out tomorrow!!! Thanks to ya all and happy travels and a safe and enjoyable summer wherever you may roam.

Looking for advice on which Faucet to hose initial water filter you use (sediment I guess?), to keep any main crud out of your pipework to FW tank. Also we have transported water in containers separately for drinking and cooking for years. This was after disconnecting the old under sink Shurflo Waterguard RV10 during winterising over 15 years plus ago, and would like to replace with something similar that would fit the holder and pipework (looks like a fridge/freezer filter line size wise). Appreciate any and all suggestions recommendations and what you use. Because we don't stay hooked up we are looking for something simple and easy to install and use effortlessly without thinking about it once in place so to speak. Thanks as always for sharing guys.

As I re-read this thread I started, I'm sure many reading it will think what a silly woman, and maybe, just maybe there'll be a small handful of others that think "well give her, her due she doesn't give up". Well the latter after today is about what I was going to do but look what happened. Clay and Vern, I don't know how to thank you enough for your patience with this gal who doesn't know much difference between an apple and an orange never mind all the electrical side of things but............. Where's that "happy dance" icon? We have 12VDC power inside and drum roll .......... the generator now works again on the upfront rocker switch. As a last kick of the cat on my part, and with untold support also from Chad Heiser, who without a shadow of doubt we would have gone to professionally for a resolution "if" we were able to get over the border and close to Santa Rosa (anyone not prepared to endure self troubleshooting like we did we so recommend him highly for design and solar/battery install/repair), I went out this morning and instead of going from left to right I decided to start from right to left of the battery bank. So I looked at every cable one at a time holding it and tracing it back (for the 4th or 5th time!). On cable 3 I discovered it was trapped kinda and buried down the back of the bank of batteries. I managed to free it and voila! At the end was another metal battery connector (lug?). All excited I went into hubby and told him our 8 connections were now going to be 9 and where did it go? We spent the next hour going over and over my pre-dismantle photos and videos and also it wasn't showing on my drawing sketch I'd done. Eventually we discovered it showing on the first left rear battery negative terminal. Between rain we managed to connect it and there you have it. I can't thank awesome folks like you Clay, Vern (and Jay on the photo link!), enough for being so gawd darn patient with someone who talks about measuring tapes as 3 inches and 2 digits (I never know whether to say 1/8th or 1/16th), and a screw driver has stars or flat ends = I never had any experience with anything mechanical or electrical until after we were RVing for a handful of years and got tired of dealerships and others not resolving things we had wrong under warranty or even doing our winterising we paid them to do properly as we had leaks every spring the first 3 years till we then started doing it ourselves including washer/dryer & ice maker = in frustration came here and you guys told me how to resolve things they didn't and they'd had our RV for weeks at a time). Anyway THANK YOU one and all. Now to await the arrival of the 85W-90 GL5 oil from Amazon (daughter ordered it as not into that either!), so I can put the mechanics hat on and check our Front Wet Hubs and apparently differential at the back also. Just learned from Ed Grey that a differential looks like a Banjo or Pumpkin and I just gotta pull the plug and check fluid not milky/yellow, and if is will get it professionally drained, if not we'll top up. LOL. At least you can tell I'm still smiling, still willing to learn and Adam Sandler's got nothing on me. Hope each and everyone on Escapees has a truly wonderful summer and your travels create special memories.

Thanks Clay so much for trying to help. The ring piece that connects to the battery just fell off totally during cleaning due to corrosion eating it. Yes that Black device is a purple 3 fuse and we have tested it seeming good a commercial electrician friend also tested the fuse to the add on hubby did connecting to the battery today and said it was good but he couldn't understand why the wires were split (he hasn't a clue on RV electrics he said but that was his comment). We have no idea what these two split wires do that show in photo 3 and 4 above. They are coming from behind the grey wire and this leads back to that mini magnum energy box in the next door bay to the left Connected to this mini magnum energy box is also the NETWORK cable from the inverter. The only switches we are aware of are the 3 on that Grey box to right of the Midnite as seen in photo 9 above, that we use to switch off the Midnite and I think? the inverter. OK bear with this gal with no tech name recognition for the most part. So I turn the ignition once and nothing, second turn we wait for the beeping assume this is the ACC position you reference above? At this second turn NO LIGHTS but for what it's worth I can hear a faint slight "thud" almost from outside??? we wait for the beeping to stop always before we then turn ignition to start engine. Once engine starts it takes about 30 seconds before we see the lights come on inside the rig (both styles light up when engine running). The fuse panel I show in photo above in response to Vern. We are just totally at a loss and my hair is thinning more day by day LOL.

Thanks again Vern, alas I'm not sure we are getting anywhere very fast on this. Still only lights and generator working when engine running, soon as switched off nothing except the 120/110 system. So this is our panel and the 12volt section is to the right with Red and Yellow wires. I couldn't get a decent photo of the back as so dark and even tried balancing flashlights. So these yellow and red wires appear to all go into a black concertina protector tube behind and then appears to go IDK where. When we come out to the battery bank & next door bay, there is only one red wire of same gauge coming in (no yellow) and that has been connected on to the last right battery of the bank POS. We had someone come by today who's a commercial/building electrician, and asked him to check the small splice hubby did to make sure there was nothing wrong with that connector (the one above grey wire that comes in and is split into 2 (one to negative back and the one after the black mini fuse box that hubby spliced goes to the front battery positive in that 12V grouping and in Photo 3 and 4 above. He felt the original red wire and said feels like a 10gauge, so we put on the black/yellow extension which is 12gauge but he said it was good connection to battery from that mini fuse. Thanks again Vern but still at a loss here.

Above is red wire that goes and splits and part of which we had to splice to replace at connection to battery. To right of it is the Green lit Magnum Energy of grey cable to battery hook up referenced prior

OK so in a nutshell here is what and how we have connected everything up on the battery replacement going from left to right front and back. 1F 1R, 2F 2R, 3F 3R 4F 4R. 1st Left Front Battery = BTS (grey telephone lead from Magnum) connected to the POS Front Bat 1. Magnum Black Main thick lead goes to Rear Bat 1 Negative as does a thinner cable from the Midnight Controller. 2nd Front & Rear Batteries, there is a wire that comes from the small Magnum Energy with green light that then splits into 2 (see above photos), with one going into a black fuse box (3A purple inside). The prior to box split one is secured on the Rear Bat 2 NEG, and the split piece past the box goes to Front Bat 2 POS. This piece we had to replace as it was toast. We spliced in this as can be seen (black cable) in the photos above all connected now. Been told we should have maybe gone to an 8 gauge as it seems a little thinner than original? If this is by any means the culprit of our no 12V on shore, gen or battery bank power then absolutely we'll replace it from Amazon, but locally this one was the highest we could source. 3rd Front & Rear Batteries = just the parallel and series connectors. 4th Front & Rear (end of bank Right side) = The POS thick cable from the Magnum Inverter goes first into a 300A side mounted Connector and then on to the 4th Front POS, as does another cable from the Grey Triple switcher On/Off besides the Midnite Controller and another thick cable is also on this POS that leads under the steps (where the original pair of OEM batteries were until pre solar in 2014) into a Truck Star 150A waterproof reset, and then out and under the chassis up to the front Engine area Battery Coach inlet. Thanks a mill for your patience and help folks. This is certainly a labour of love we're finding, and not feeling much love so far from our ole gal. Hubby keeps saying when we resolve the issue we'll kick ourselves the untold hours gone into it.

OK hoping I've got these photo URLs right! Here's a very minor view of what we faced a week or so ago to clean up: Here's after huge clean up and 3 times baking soda scrubbing of all cables wires etc 8 x 232ah 6V GC2 batteries installed in series and parallel: [ OK this seems to be working but some I've tried to upload are just spinning forever. I'll try to upload 3 close ups of now we are all connected starting left to right. Sorry about the labels on this right hand side of bank, this was for hubby and I tracking where from and to and the original photo I took prior wouldn't upload, so just retook.

Thanks so much Wrknrvr yes we squeezed into that bolted to floor about 8inch high space it's crammed into coupled with dryer type extractor concertina piping and saw 2 x 30a fuses which we tested and were good yesterday. Thank you very much, we are open to any and all suggestions. Latest update from being out there just in case it's pertinent. We went behind the panel in the bedroom (where you'd address slide issues, AC1, AC2 or Off) and there is a box marked IIRC Relay Delay or Transfer Relay Delay. Also for whatever it might be worth, the intellec tank measure LEDs are working. We also thought we'd start the engine and check the external coach headlights, indicators, running lights, brakes, fogs and all good and voila, while engine was running some of the lights we had turned on inside came on. While ignition was running all lights worked inside, water pump, hood fan, etc etc. However, within seconds of the ignition being turned off they all died again. I checked battery condition and it is reading 12.3V on the multimeter. OK, so I'm now in for the night and about to read Jay's link on how to attach photos/files here. Hope to have something for you all soon. I also traced and labelled all the cables from source to battery connect, even going through 300A fuse or other hardware/items, understeps to getting underneath to Engine, and so on. Will write more in detail on that later. Again sincere thanks for your patience and help guys you've no idea how appreciated it is. Hubby said well if we leave the engine running all night we can go camping now. LOL.

Thanks Kirk as always! No we removed fuses and checked them to read 0000 on the multimeter. I've been trying to source a basic uncomplicated diagram on line for a Solar to Battery bank, charge controller, inverter set up and with shunt (think I have one) and an in line fuse and some other goodies screwed on so I could maybe just trace back to ensure all connections to batteries are in the right place. Series and parallels aside we have 8 connections to the battery bank, I know 2 big ones come from the inverter POS Red (secured to battery bank right hand side POS) & a black one secured to left hand side battery NEG. Then I have the BTS from the magnum on first battery POS. That's 3 of the 8 LOL, the others I am just about to go out again now before it gets dark to trace. Just wish I had a diagram to check against but can't find an easy read basic one. We don't know what we had before (last time I used any of the 12V was August 2019 due to stay in place orders here, as when we opened up everything end April all was dead and corroded after all being checked and topped up battery wise, and appearing fine 2 months prior. Time to head out again before it gets dark and try to start tracing all the cables and wires underneath and try find any more fuses/breakers we might have missed testing. Will look into posting photos later on tonight when it's dark and can't do anything outside, in the hopes that might help you awesome folks guide me best. Appreciate you all.

Thanks Ray and Clay for responding. Will reset the inverter as you suggested - everything was dead as a dodo when we discovered the mess on Spring start up (hubby had checked them and added water etc throughout winter every couple months prior, so we weren't able to do Magnums advice on remove positive first as we would have done in normal circumstances. When I work out how to post photos you'll see what was involved. Thanks Jay on how to which I'll try get sorted later. Clay sorry didn't mean to lose you just trying give info on the RV in question age and type in case someone else with same rig could point us where to look on something. The whole solar system and battery bank was installed in 2014 and apart from a boiling issue at front end and continual clean ups lasted until recently. This past month we removed all batteries and cleaned up majorly (gotta love baking soda!) including scrubbing all connections 3 times over etc. All we've done is replace the 8 GC2 batteries (hopefully we've reconnected correctly in series and parallel - did a drawing and took lots of photos of what was visible under the acid mess prior to hopefully help us. I just mentioned the big black cable (there's a red POS one too) leading out from the back of the Magnum inverter we didn't have info on where that was connected prior so connected that to the first negative battery in the 8 bank, as well another much thinner cable coming from the midnight area. Just mentioned in case we'd screwed up there somehow. In a nutshell, whether on Shore Power, Generator or just batteries only things working are Microwave clock, plugs with hair dryer tested OK, TV, and Residential Fridge = all come on (haven't checked AC's yet!). Just the lights, ceiling fans, water pump, water heater, hood fan (I think you call this 12V system???) aren't. Bear with me I'm not electrically minded so doing my best. When we bought this 2003 RV new there were 2 batteries under the steps and a small box type converter tightly hard to access under the fridge (still there but not sure how it affects things today???). Irrespective we thought we'd just check the fuses in case last night but they seem good. I do have a multimeter that I am new too LOL! Checked batteries voltage as singles and then each set in series as we went. Also learnt to use it to double check fuses last night = all read zeros so = good. We are wondering if there is a breaker reset button or something that might be hidden somewhere we haven't found???? I'm wondering if we need to take the main panel off in the bedroom and delve into the tight fit behind and see if we can find anything in there that needs resetting. I recall years ago when we had problems with our AC's and no RV dealership could work it out, someone told me behind that main breaker panel in the bedroom there's a small switch we needed to move and we did that and the A/C's worked. There's no way on earth we'd have found it without someone guiding us back then and in Miami heat at the time we were eternally grateful to them. We are hoping someone might be able to guide us and we will do whatever we can as advised to resolve this, so THANK YOU one and all. Helen. PS: Over the past 18 years, we shake our heads at how inaccessible and all over the place so much of this electrical stuff is ie; original converter under the fridge can't access properly bolted to floor, that other area behind the panel in the bedroom so tight and have to hold panel whilst trying to do. Fuse locations here there and everywhere.

In the spirit of trying to give as much info as possible to hopefully have someone guide us how to resolve .......... We have a 2003 Fleetwood Southwind and we just had to totally replace our old 2014 8 6V GC2 battery bank wired in series and parallel that had boiled quite the mess. We have a Midnite 200 MPPT Charge Controller, a Magnum 2800 Inverter, 1000w of Solar and a remote Magnum Battery Monitor. We now have a bank of 8 x brand new 232AH 6V GC2 Power Point Batteries wired in series and parallel to give 928ahs. I still have yet to finalise tweak the settings on the Midnite and Remote BM but we have a problem Houston. We are really hoping we have reconnected all the wiring correctly, except for 3 items we have concern over. Two Black cables (one thick one that comes from the Magnum back and another much thinner gauge one that comes from the Midnight) - we placed these on the back left hand side battery as seemed that was only how far they would reach to (hoping I can figure out how to attach photos here), and one damaged terminal connector from a small red/yellow collar cable we had to splice in a 12 gauge black replacement (this replacement might have been a gauge or two smaller than but all we could get locally). Everything else was placed back where we believed it came from through drawings and photos, except those first 2 black cables. TV, Res Fridge, Microwave Clock, TV, plugged in hair dryer all work on inverter mode. Have turned the Aux and Main rocker switches above door up and down and back and forth and tried all the two types of lighting, ceiling fans, water pump, water heater, hood fan and none of them work I've googled and Youtubed up down and sideways and can't seem to find any resolution. There was mention of a reset button by one person on a manual breaker box (I have no idea where ours is to look???). I have checked the panel box in the bedroom, I have checked the old converter under the fridge fuses 30A that are good, but have no idea what to do next. Really appreciate you knowledgable electrical type guys guidance on where we go from here. We were so looking forward to getting away this week for at least 4 nights fishing/kayaking, as haven't been out in her since returning from long trip in August 2019 because of "you know what" sadly. Thanks so much everyone for your suggestions and guidance to get this resolved or how you resolved yours. Helen. PS: Apologies I have no idea how to get my photos easily inserted here as won't accept them either dragged of URL pasted. So I created a cut and paste in Pages doc and saved and can't fathom out how to add into my profile as an attachment. I'll happily email anyone that wants to see, before, after battery set up etc if that would help you help me moreso. Sheesh I'm useless in this techy world as well it seems

As always to each their own, but I chose to not try and catch a falling knife (unless it's a good short opportunity ) typically waiting for a fish hook/double bottom/doji or other confirmation. I would agree to some degree with that Business Insider (wish it quoted percentage of portfolio risk rather than dollar amounts for realism!), article when applied to solid "index" type investments, but thank heavens I didn't apply that years ago to Nortel (many, many Canadian pension funds that believed it was solid took a huge bath!), also what about Valiant Pharmaceuticals not that many years back, (VRX at the time), that took a huge tumble from in the upper $300's to barely double digits. It's been great since it truly bottomed to buy in and out on the dips but it's still only trading in $30's last time I personally checked under a new ticker BHC? That's just two of many that i'm sure glad we didn't apply that business insider principal too. I have many friends still in SPB from when it was the boasting flavour of income trust funds, their DCA is still crazily high because they "bought and hoped", and believed it would turn around GLBR another and so it goes on and on. Moving your Stop Losses with reasonable wiggle rooms (not too tight!!!), and not holding on to losers will always be the best course of action in our books. Take the 2008 crash, if folks had a reasonable SL based on prior support/resistance/ATRs etc, then many could have got out to cash from S&P index, and waited for the return of, whatever buy signals they prefer to have bought back in = true overall if you'd held throughout you'd still be up today (ask BarbOK ), but if you'd come out to cash and got back in on the upturn you'd be far more ahead of the game. No one I've ever met went poor taking profits For sure indexes, dividend aristocrats and sometimes Dogs of the Dow, have been our mainstay for the portfolio for spreading risk and are for the most part "buy and hold" with a wider SL applied, but I sure do enjoy those speculative one off stocks here and there . They add a bit of fun and variety to the watching paint dry ones. As I said before, for everyone that believes something's a buy there's someone on the other end that believes it's a sell. Buy and hope is not a strategy but sadly most abide by that, being afraid to sell their losers in a timely manner or recognizing when the gravy train is about to run dry, even if only to be short lived, when they can jump back on the bus later. PS: A $75K loss within a multi million dollar portfolio is minor compared to someone else with a $500 loss on a $10,000 portfolio!

No recommendations on anything RJXJ. For every buyer that thinks they're right, there's a seller that thinks they are too and vice a versa (LOL). No opinion, just sharing the concerns at more local levels here on how it's going to pan out a while down the road after Wednesday. We are more "buy the rumour sell the news" folks and happy to take profits where we can. I'm sure it'll be one of those FB things for us in getting out too soon but grateful for some scraps nonetheless. Happy trading, happy travelling y'all.

ACB on the TSX was a good grab for few thousand stocks in the $3-$5's a year ago using wider SL's. Nice return today :). Just a heads up, we in the frigid north are being cautiously optimistic now with placing our SL's somewhat tighter to lock in some profits. All due to lots of news about how it's going to be cheaper still on the black market than when it becomes legalized due to the government controls/wants/taxes etc. Just saying FWIW that we are watching the write ups and news very closely here as traders.

Just a thought but "if" you have a camper/rv in the UK, and be willing, have you considered doing an exchange? Several of my Canadian friends have done this with Spain, UK, other European destinations and in turn they've reciprocated with the same over here in Canada and the USA. Just another idea. One couple off the top of my head I can think of are TravelwithKevinandRuth.com who did the exchange. I also believe there's a website I found where folks privately rent out their RVs = can't think of the name but I recall checking into it for ourselves when looking to do Aus' and NZ.

Scott once again a huge thanks for sharing as you do each year Happy New Year and hope 2018 is a great one for you.