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Posts
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Everything posted by wlp
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I can access the fuel caps from the side of the truck with no issue. That was a priority before I started the build. The top triangle gaps are for access to the fuel return /breather lines that go into the fuel tanks as well as the APU fuel line to the right fuel tank. When I put the drom box on I used a 3/16 cut out that cover up the access points. The welder, plasma and tool chest is on the right side of the drom while the consumable/ durable storage products are on held on a shelving unit to the left side of the drom box.
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"It's removable so that the bed can be taken apart in sections for truck service." I second that idea... it is such a time saver when the bed is finished and you have to do something under the truck!
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look on the bright side..... you will have a very clean windshield for a few miles
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top of the ramp stringers bottom of the stringers cut and angle info DOG tested DOG approved. Wife approval pending
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Made some 11' aluminum ramps for the truck and trailer. Wife thinks I should multipurpose them for a work table after unloading the Spark.
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I made the move last year Jan21 on my GD 399th Momentum. I went with the 8K on all three axles and then installed the blue dot for air over hydraulics. I designed my brake system so I can toggle between air or electric if a different vehicle is needed to tow our rig. Since I went with the Moryde IS.....I don't have to use my pin nailer after miles of rough roads and my Sonos speakers stay on the shelves where I left them. For me... it was worth the 10K.
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Thank you lessons learned Always make sure you have your sheet metal lined up when you’re using the 3M tape. Once it touches it stuck. Secondly, make sure you remove the plastic covering film from your panels before you use 3M tape.
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Thanks Jay and Rick... for the advise. On previous first 10 posts/ pics I was able to just drag and drop....some reason I now had to use the "link" method you described.
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Im having difficulty to loading the final pics. Any thoughts?
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Ohhhh I could image that full tools ready to go Rving!!!
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just a shot of the top (roof) before I peeled the tape and added the exterior panels. Once you align your panels, I used my roller with some pressure making sure I had no gaps and full adhesion to both surfaces.
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Next it was cleaning up the aluminum for the panels. I drilled out the entry holes for the electrical wire runs and will finish the holes after I get the panels installed. I purchased 3M 5952 VHB DOUBLE-SIDED tape for sealing and the holding strength of the tape.
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Progress for tonight. I pulled the frame off the truck bed. Welded in the frame for the access door to my cab air bags and APU AC unit. I installed the 4' x 7' roll up door.
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Im starting to think gravity increases as we get older. In my mind, I think I can lift it all by myself...
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pic is the frame on the truck. As light as aluminum is....it gets heavy for one person to move around. I
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this link /pic depicts the 32" offset I need from my Hitch to the drom box so I do not connect with the trailer when turning
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started this project October 2 and want to finish it before the National Rally - minus the electrical lighting. I can only work on it after my day job but it keeps me out of trouble.
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Kevin - 96" Wide x 70" deep x 110" tall. Rick - Thank you I will get the photos together and try to post some of that project.
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Going to attempt a Drom box from aluminum. My objective is a simple design where I am able to access my maintenance panels on the top of the bed as well the APU AC unit on back of my cab. I am using 1.5 x 1.5 x 1/8 wall aluminum for the frame with the drom dimensions sized with the appropriate clearances so I don't contact my trailer when at a 90 degree (jackknife position) or my truck's cab shift when going over uneven terrain.