Moresmoke

Big Rick’s comment I think is a bit misleading. Commonly in the trucking industry, owner operators that are leased to a carrier, are only covered by said carrier’s insurance policy when they are under dispatch. Hence the existence of “bobtail” insurance policies for coverage when not working for the contracted carrier.

Now back to your question, my last experience with Progressive commercial insurance was about 15 years ago. The only downside to the policy was it had a quite restrictive mileage radius. I think it was a 300 mile limit. No idea if they still work the same.

Currently, I am insured under a “farm” policy. The only restriction is that I cannot haul anything for someone else. I can operate “commercially” if I want, but must be hauling my own stuff. Cost is about the same as my F350 that is on the same policy. (All that said, the S&B is insured as a farm by the same carrier.)

That one is kinda hard with the trailer all twisted over. If you can get both legs on the ground, the air suspension is your friend. Dump the bags, wedge the truck as far back as possible, inflate, crank down, repeat.

I’ve had to pick a few up. Would get a few on mornings when it was -30/-35F out. The grease was stiff enough that it would fool the drivers when they did a tug test, but the hitch was not latched. The trailer would pull across the yard just fine, but when they made the turn onto the highway, the grease would break loose and the trailer would slide off. Thankfully we had a big old Cat that was capable of lifting a loaded trailer. But still not something you want to be doing in the middle of the state highway.

I would wager that he was high hooked. End of the pin was sitting on top of the jaws. Or some idiot pulled the latch while he was parked there just for the fun of it.

49 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Meanwhile, there may be some real bargains popping up for those who are prepared....

Used trucks were already a buyer’s market, will probably be more so in the near future.

Trimster - use the time to plan what you want to do when you are able to pull the trigger on an HDT. If you have space to store stuff, you can even acquire some of the small bits as opportunity presents.

2 hours ago, trimster said:

Actually it's shorter driving down. On the way back we have some stops we need to make...so more road miles.

Given the current circumstances, bus or train would be my last resort. More likely, no resort.

Bad history from the H1N1 time frame with train travel. Best to just not go there.

Yes, there is a ~1” wide trim ring that I attached on the outside of the upholstery with screws to my “wood box” window frame. The windows I used were made for a 1?” thick wall. The Volvo wall is closer to 3 1/2.

I made new wall panels, there were a bunch of holes left from the cabinets that were removed from the sleeper. Both the lower large panel and the upper intermediate panel. I used 1/8 mdf for the panels and found some vinyl upholstery at a local hardware store that matched reasonably well. I just used the original panel as a pattern to cut the new mdf.

In the RH cabinet there was a power supply for a tv. This I wired to a usb power port installed in the wall on that side.

The walls of the 730/780s with windows are different than the 630. The rear may be the same. Should be easy to check as the outline of the window is visible in the back of the cab.

I installed regular RV windows in my 630. This should give you some idea:

I built a box spacer to go in the wall to trim out the window out of wood and mdf.  The box was glued to the wall with windshield urethane, as was the window attached to the outside. The left side required relocating the control panel, but there was enough wire harness. The right side I had to shorten the vent duct.

I am picture challenged at the moment, and out of time, so you can check out my build thread for more pictures. There is also some information in the resource guide of other window installs.

My build thread can be found here.

Moresmoke’s HDT

2 hours ago, Exile said:

Moresmoke- is your fifthwheel on under that flat bed?

Nice dgn and mms on it.

Yes, bed latches in fifth wheel and a couple pins on the back. The is a build thread on here from a couple years ago.

Two variables that affect what you want to do are the state you live in, and whether or not you need to leave that state in a commercial capacity.

I live in ND and the state doesn’t really care if I use the truck commercially or for personal use. Registration is the same either way, just need to buy enough weight. ND does not require a USDOT number. Some states do. If you want to cross state lines in a commercial capacity, then you will need the full deal to meet federal regs. The insurance that I have, I can use for what could be considered commercial, just not to haul for someone else. IE I can move my own equipment to a job site.

Just a quick comment on the water. I have a ‘12 630. Mine has no signs of water from the headliner. It has been inside for the last 3 months. 2 weeks ago I used it for 4 days, spending a couple nights in the truck. The last day, I had a couple times where the water dropped down out of that center storage cubby in the headliner. I have to assume that there was condensation collecting on the inside of the roof, which melted and ran down.

Just my $.02, the fact that the prior owner had plates to mount the fuel/HUT stickers tells me they cared about the truck. It’s a sharp looking truck, premium shifter which is a plus. One thing to note, there is no “trolley brake” aka trailer brake handle, similar to mine. Not sure why, but some Volvo’s are that way.

I can’t comment on the pricing, as I haven’t been shopping recently, but if you can get some assurance that it has spent most of its miles in the south you should be in good shape.

13 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

I know nothing of the legalities. This narrative says the couple (O&O) hauls jet engines for Southern Pride Transport. I would think a jet engine is an over-size load, wouldn't that limit the routes they may drive?

Jet engines are typically not all that large. Fit on a fairly short trailer.

When I registered my convertible the lady at DMV asked “truck or tractor”? “Both” was my answer. She decided it was built as a tractor so it is registered as a tractor. Nobody has complained yet.

I got a jack knife sofa from: https://rvsurplusparts.net/ They are close enough I didn’t have to ship it.

Seat belts from: https://www.seatbeltsplus.com/category/Conversion-Van-Seat-Belts.html  I used conversion van belts because I had to go fairly high up to attach the shoulder belts. There are also two lap belts in the center that are setup so you can have two small seats or one larger one.

You can find my build thread here: Moresmoke’s HDT  there are a few pictures of the cab work towards the end.

I want a self driving sleeper...  Set it going and I can wake up in the morning where I want to be. Not hotels or campgrounds required!

Sweet, we knew you could do it.

3 hours ago, Av8r3400 said:Is it possible that I could use the existing pneumatic plumbing for the power divider to run the locker?  (No additional switches or computer programming needed) Since I'm singled the PD is no longer there and I use that switched air currently for the hitch.  I plan to change my hitch air to a constant source rather than switched.

Yes you could repurpose the power divider plumbing. The only reason they are on separate switches to begin with, is that if you are fully locked with moderate traction, you cannot steer the truck.

4 hours ago, jenandjon said:

 

Got a hole cut and test fit. Got it mocked up on the inside. Looks like everything is going to fit like its suppose to. Now I have to figure out what to use for a sealer and get it together. It first I thought I might use the stuff they use on windshields. But if that window ever broke you would never get it out.

The black gooey stuff they use to seal roped in windshields would work. It’s quite similar to the gray butyl caulk the RV builders use, just black.

If you are talking about the urethane windshield adhesive, I wouldn’t use it if you have all the trim rings that clamp the window in. You are right the only way to get that stuff to let go is to cut the window out. That’s how mine are installed, just glued in from the outside. The urethane adhesive is fairly expensive, and requires proper prep to adhere correctly.

Just a thought, the RV butyl tape is very similar to the tape they use on grain bins...

8 hours ago, jenandjon said:

I got the hole laid out. By the end of the weekend there should be a window here.

Just make sure you get it in the right spot the first time!

2 hours ago, noteven said:

Confuoicious say, “Man who ignore loud gear noise from engine rear accessory drive will pay much barbecue duck when fail.”

Yes, but mechanic should at least pull oil sample before sending truck to junk heap.

Since some of us don’t remember all the details, maybe Cory would like to remind us of his truck’s specs before any more conclusions are jumped to. All I remember is it resembles the Great Pumpkin.

So you need a new engine and a new everything else, but they never moved the truck? I hate sleaze bags that give mechanics a bad name. Did they offer to take it off your hands for nothing too?

You we’re not wrong to want someone to check it over good. I am a firm believer in preventative maintenance. So in a former life, I was a mechanic at a Deere dealership. Did many, many inspections on combine harvesters. Not unusual to have a 20k repair bill, but we are talking half mil machines. But the flip side was the reduction in down time when it mattered most. Trucks are the same way, take care of them and your life will be easier.

You need to find a different shop. But, don’t feel bad, I dropped a radiator off at a shop 2 months ago to get fixed. Never heard from them. Called last week, no good, can’t be repaired. I stopped in on Friday, my radiator was sitting right where I set it when I dropped it off. Needless to say I will not darken that shop’s door again.

I agree with Jack that the interior work is the hardest part.  Those look like standard RV style windows, probably just clamped to the wall by the trim ring and sealed with butyl tape.

When I did the windows in my Volvo, I made an interior filler ring out of wood and MDF, glued it to the inside of the wall with windshield urethane, and glued the window to the out side with the same. I ended up making new interior wall panels due to all the holes that were left when I took out the cabinets and such.

Cutting the holes in the wall was a bit nerve wracking, just making sure it was right on the first try. I used a HF air nibbler to cut the wall out.

For whatever they are worth, aftermarket shifters are widely available on the web.  Also, I think the dealer was stretching it with the reprogramming. I changed up to the premium from the basic. I bought a used premium shifter, installed it and it worked just like the previous one. Had to get the programming done for the premium functions. But I don’t think it’s necessary if you are replacing with the same.

Carry a 2 dr Wrangler or Nissan Rogue, but I don’t have room for the bike rack with the Rogue. Pulling a bumper hitch TT.

The Jackalopee is primarily just a pass through device. If you are connecting to your trucks original trailer wiring, it should already have overload protection. The only inputs that you would need to provide a fuse/breaker for is the 12v switched or 12v direct connectors in the upper left corner.

8 hours ago, noteven said:

I still like to winterize my rig by hanging a snow shobbel on the front bumper and motoring south till someone runs over at the gas station and asks, “What’s that?”.

A couple years ago I was at a county fair, and a carnie came over to ask me what that rigging was on the front of my pickup. Yup, plow gear... He wasn’t a local!