Moresmoke

Discount hydraulic hose

They have a few sizes in both PTC and sleeve type compression. Myself I would use the sleeve type and never worry about a leak again.

I know the instructions for red loctite say heat is required for removal. In a bolt situation, I have never had one not come apart with an impact wrench.

The only loctite application I have ever had to heat was a sleeve situation that had a very large surface area.

48 minutes ago, Overthinker said:

So is the right place for the red wire when using a DirecLink where Henry has it in the picture?  I feel confident he's correct but just curious.

The way Henry shows it connected will power the trailer brake lights when the slide bar is activated. The way my Volvo functions with relays in the trailer circuit, the original truck brake lights will not come on with the slide bar. As mine is, both my bed and the trailer are powered from the truck’s trailer circuits so it works out.

Other makes may function differently.

On 6/17/2022 at 1:38 PM, phoenix2013 said:

Use of OBD Y harnesses? He discussed his need to Y the OBD output since he plans to use it for two purposes, tracking and the DirecLink. The answer he got from DirecLink, they weren't sure if there could be a conflict and the devices might knock each other out. Comments and wisdom would be appreciated.

You can Y from the diagnostic plug without an issue, so long as you keep the added length to the Canbus wires fairly short. Typically, there is a Canbus terminator located near the diagnostic port. The terminator is a couple of resistors that have the job of preventing echo on the bus. If you end up with a branch circuit in the Canbus that is too long, it can induce reflectance (echo) and cause communication problems.

Also to note on the red wire of the brake controller, it serves two purposes. As noted above, it provides a signal to the brake controller for when you activate the brakes. It also provides power back to the brake light circuit when the slide bar on the brake controller is activated. It is important to have the red wire connected in the right place, or you may end up applying the trailer brakes manually, and not having any brake lights.

11 hours ago, Pat & Pete said:

I always went outside and grabbed a handful of dry dirt . 

Spread it over the stain and ground it in with my foot . 

Sweep it up and all is right with the world .

Floor dry and a boot will do the same thing. Especially if you lack dry dirt.

Drive: 16740

The sum of the axles must equal the gross.

There is a mixed bag of signage for both RV’s and rental trucks.

If I am in RV mode, I do not stop. They will need to come get me if they want to chat.

When I am hauling toys, I will pull in. Looks like a truck, they are going to expect me. Have never been questioned though, probably 20000 lbs of old tractors riding on 6 axles looks boring.

18 hours ago, NeverEasy said:

If you are outside the truck, watch the clutch on the front of the compressor.  If the forward part in front of the belt  is turning, the compressor is running.  Note that the compressor will not run if there is not enough refrigerant in the system to get pressure.  Nor will the system pull in refrigerant because the pressure at the low port is too high when the compressor is not running.

You might need to force it to run to get enough in the system to start the upload.  Remove the two pronged connector on the compressor.  Jumper the pins.  The compressor should engage.  Start filling.  After 30 seconds, remove the jumper and put the connector back on the compressor.  Hopefully, there will be enough refrigerant to get pressure and the compressor will cycle on/off on its own.  Watch the pressure on the can's gauge.  Use this chart  https://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart to see what kind of pressure is good on the LOW side for the ambient air temperature.  Open the truck doors and set the fan and temp to max AC.

If the compressor does not cycle on its own, repeat the jumper routine for a few more seconds.

While filling, rotate the can about 45 degrees side-to-side in the upright position. 

Caution:  I believe you would be using R123A refrigerant.  DO NOT turn the can upside down while filling.  If you do, a liquid slug will pass into the compressor locking it up.  Belts will scream and things will break.  

As NeverEasy says, most truck compressors have a open clutch, and you can visibly tell if the center part of the drive pulley is turning. Most construction/farm equipment and probably a few trucks have a cover over the center section to keep dirt out.

If the compressor is in an open spot, you can also feel the hoses. The low side will be cool, and the high side will be warm/hot if the compressor is running.

Volvo engines typically run hot, so around 220 is not uncommon. It will let you know if there is an issue.

The proper answer is to leave it with the tanks full on account of less condensation.

The correct answer might be to leave the tanks mostly empty to prevent the unauthorized disappearance of high dollar fuel.

Cory as we told you the other day, put some fuel treatment in it. It can get cold in KS, but generally doesn’t stay that cold. I’d be willing to bet the guys at the shop are bright enough to wait for it to warm up before starting the truck if it is that cold.

Agree with jenandjon a dose of Howes will be just fine for occasional starts/moves over the winter. Just be sure to read the fine print on the bottle so you get the correct amount.

You will not likely find #1 fuel at this time of year most places.

My guess is someone higher up the chain reviewed the sale and called it.

Which is bad for you, but I doubt there is much you can do.

I would however have them wire the money back. No need for you to accept a check.

On 5/10/2022 at 3:43 PM, Ray,IN said:

Big5ere is right, that exemption has been around for decades. No compensation means even winning a trophy at a race qualifies as compensation. If a driver receives any compensation, they fall under the CDL rules; with the exception of farm truck drivers and they have their own set of rules to follow.

If you read the linked interpretation, compensation from an event is not the consideration of whether or not a vehicle is commercial. It is very clearly stated in the interpretation that an individual can transport property to an event that offers prizes as long as there is no business connection to the heavy vehicle use.

That is what is significant about the FMCSA web post.

Keep in mind there are plenty of million mile truck out there earning their keep every day. How many trucks of all ages do you see sitting on the side of the road vs the number going down the road?

2 hours ago, Randyretired said:

I wonder if others also notice fewer cars cutting in front of the HDT.  Maybe it is just because I know it is easier to stop but it seems I don't have to deal with it as often.  Don't get me wrong it still happens but sometimes we actually get to our destination without every thing in the 5er in disarray. 

Haven’t noticed less cutting in front, but there is a definite reduction of big trucks crowding the sides on multi lane roads.

Nice to see that clearly laid out in print. Thank You.

If it’s taken 4 years to bleed off enough to notice and the ac is still operating, I would just charge it.

Add about 1/3 of a can at a time while checking the temp with a thermometer at the dash vent. It is full when A the temp is cold enough for you, or B the temp starts to go back up.

On 3/24/2022 at 3:25 PM, Vegas Teacher said:problem is I really don't know what I am doing. 

Hey, that’s my line. And I spent several years working as a mechanic and have a degree in engineering.

You start with righty tighty and go from there. It’s all just building blocks and stepping stones. Good luck this summer.

9 hours ago, CAdc2c said:

That looks like exactly what I've been looking for!  Where did you find it and what kind of price range, please?  I thought an expanded metal mesh (the kind that is on the front of yours) cage would be the answer - no worries about ventilation/exhaust - but still theft-resistant.  I just don't know why there aren't more available, with all the RV-ers out here!  I want to mount my Champion 3300 on a platform above the propane tanks on a travel trailer.

Thanks in advance.

It is something I custom built for my application.

I lose about a gallon every winter from my Volvo. Radiator leaks when it is cold. Never leaks in summertime temps. Eventually the radiator will need replaced but for now it works.

Time and practice is what it takes. My wife drives some, lately even with the 51’ toy hauler.

She gets a bit mad at me when I insist that I am driving at times, then realizes that there is a reason. Not ready to turn her loose in Chicago.

Haven’t played with the doors or under the dash much so can’t help there. The cab/sleeper walls are mostly held together with double sided tape, and a few upholstery anchors. The seatbelt bolts will teach you a few new cuss words, but should come out.

The inside of the sleeper walls is pretty well stuffed with polyfil insulation. Not sure how much you will gain by changing it out.

10 hours ago, jayco1 said:

Several years ago we had a MH on a large Kenworth chassis, tanks were low, was in a high fuel price area, cost $1000   to fill, will never forget. Maybe one way to eliminate fuel sicker shock would be small tanks. 

You don’t have to fill them full. Planning your fuel buying can make a big difference. Big difference in prices, even across state lines depending on tax rates.

Ran across Canada many times. Buy the minimum amount to get back to the States.

11 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Well remember 2008. It cost over $100.00 for my pickup. 

I owned an 86 Freightliner for the farm at that point in time. Filling the tanks was a 20 percent jump in the value of the truck.