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LSpecht

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About LSpecht

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  1. Today, as I drove the unit back to storage, I was able to get an error code. 36. Fuel pump and or Fuel Filter are the most likely causes. I will order new replacement parts and see if that fixes it. I will report back on success or failure. Oh and the model is HGJAB.
  2. Thanks for the error code description. I probably have that in the generator manual somewhere. I will see what the error code is today and post it.
  3. The generator is on the driver side in the most aft compartment (at the rear). Nothing has been modified or added to alter air flow. I will locate the sensor for the over temp shutdown and see if I can replace that.
  4. Yes, this is a gas motorhome. If the fan belt was off the water pump, the RV engine would be overheating and it is not. That would be the larger issue if it were. I suspect a problem with the fuel flow and the fuel line collapsing is a good thought. I will check for that. The line is original and so 17 years old. Before the 200 mile trip to TN this past week, I filled the tank at the same gas station I've used for years, a QuickTrip. I also added 3 bottles of STP gas treatment (75 gallon fuel tank) in hopes that would help. It did not. I'll get the error code today and check the air filter to the generator only because it's been awhile since I last checked it, not that I think it is part of the problem. I'll also get the model number and research the fuel system design to check the fuel line and fuel pump and also the overheat sensor.
  5. I have changed the oil and filter on the generator before this trip I took over 4th of July weekend. I also had a full tank of fuel. Basics, I've got covered. One update, the generator now won't run for more than a few minutes even while driving. The difference was the outside temperature. The previous times I had driven it with this problem, were either overcast or early morning hours. Today, while driving home the temperature was above 90 deg and the generator just wouldn't stay running. I'll check for the fault code when I drive it tomorrow and see what it is giving me.
  6. You must have me confused with someone else. I have not posted this issue on any other forum.
  7. All good suggestions and thanks. The coach batteries are 5 years old but seem to be working properly, otherwise. The air filter hasn't been changed in years so I'll check that too. I am fairly sure this is a fuel starvation problem. The problem occurs even with a full tank of gas. I will research the generator's fuel pump system and call Onan for advice as well to see what they say. If I decide to add a second fuel pump, how do I size it? Where do I buy it and where do I install it?
  8. I have a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer I purchase new which has a 5.5KW Onan Generator (original). It sat in storage for 18 months unused. The generator started fine when I got it out of storage and will run as long as the RV engine is running and I'm driving. If I stop, say at a rest area, shut the engine off and leave the generator running, it will stall anywhere from 5-15 minutes later. I can usually restart it but it will stall more quickly, 1-5 minutes. As soon as I start up the RV engine and get back on the road, I can start the generator and it will run until I stop again 2-3 hours later. Within 5-15 minutes it will stall. I've repeated this scenario enough times to know it is definitely related to when the RV is not running at high rpm. I have tried leaving the engine idling but that doesn't seem to be enough, I actually have to be driving (higher rpm) for the generator to not stall. I am thinking this is maybe a fuel system pressure problem? Maybe a new gas cap? I can't think of anything else and so I'm seeking help on this forum. When it is running, it runs fine, no missing or sputtering. It will sometimes sputter just as it is stalling but that is all.
  9. Thanks for the replies and sorry it took so long to respond. I took Rif's advice and called HWH. They had a call back waiting list that was days long for both parts and service departments. That's the bad news. The good news is the parts department called me back a couple of days later and when I explained my problem to her, she felt like the strut itself had something wrong internally. She suggested I extend the jacks and then store them. This left the 3 good jacks stored and the one bad jack extended but with no load on it. Then she had me disconnect the hydraulic line at the top of the strut to see if the strut would retract. It did not and this meant something inside the strut was bad. Even though she worked in parts and not service, she really helped me isolate the problem and I can't say enough good things about their customer service. She sold me a remanufactured strut for $255 and I ordered a new pair of springs just to be thorough. The only difficulty in replacing the strut was the solenoid (or maybe it's a pressure transducer?) that is installed on the top of the strut. I could only unscrew it about 3 full turns before the wires kinked up to the point I was afraid I would damage them. So I had to unbolt the mounting brackets for the strut, carefully lower the strut and unwind it 3 full turns. Then I continued to unwind the strut another 3 turns to give me more removal turns back up at the solenoid. I then bolted the strut in enough to hold it and finished removing the solenoid. I reversed the procedure installing the new reman strut. I used jack stands rated for the vehicle which is a Winnebago Adventurer and I used a tarp to catch the hydraulic fluid that leaked out when I disconnected the strut hydraulic line. I added some more HWH Specialty fluid back in when the job was done. The new strut works like a charm.
  10. I've never had much luck with the do-it-yourself kits. I had my RV windshield chip repaired by a professional for $20 and I couldn't tell it had ever been chipped when he was done. Plus, he came to me and did it in my driveway.
  11. Hey, I have an HWH touch panel-controlled leveling system, series 310 on my 2002 Winnebago Adventurer. I don't use the RV very much these days usually only putting about 1000 miles per year on it. A few years ago, the front left straight down jack started hanging up sometimes during retraction. Other times it worked fine. When this happened, not realizing I should be opening the solenoid to retract it, I simply used a lever and fulcrum to pry the jack up into the stored position. The problem seems to be getting worse now, almost every time I use the jack it doesn't seem to want to automatically retract and during my last trip home the jack extended warning light came on while I was going down the road. It had only come down slightly so I pushed it back up and made it home. Now I want to fix it and according to the manual, the most likely causes are bent rod, pinched hydraulic line, dirt, or a weak spring. That last one might be why the jack extended a little bit on the last return trip. Anyway, I plan to try cleaning the jack first and was wondering what the best way was to do this? The rod itself looks fine, nice and shiny with no corrosion or dirt. I am thinkiing I'll just get my pressure washer on the exterior and springs but is there something more I can do? I was thinking of lubricating the rod with a silicone lubricant. I will of course inspect the hydraulic line for any damage as well while I'm under there. Extension of the jack has never been a problem. Thoughts or advice to help me get this working the way it should? Lowell.
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