chief916

On 11/13/2021 at 7:56 PM, Dutch_12078 said:

At least slap some plastic and duct tape over the hole while sorting things out to mitigate any further damage from the elements...

Or use crash tape. I always carry a roll of for something like that.

I changed the oil and all my filters on the truck. 

On 11/17/2021 at 6:47 PM, trailertraveler said:

Some things to consider. A 5th wheel puts 20-25% of its weight on the truck. A travel trailer should put 12-15% on the hitch. The relationship between the wheelbase of the tow vehicle and the length of the trailer is more important to stability when towing a travel trailer. (read this article).

From 2007 to 2018 we towed a 30', 32' and 34' travel trailer (GVWRs 7500-10000#) with a Chevy diesel 2500 long bed crewcab and now tow with a 3500 single rear axel long bed crewcab. The switch to the 3500 was based on cost and extra load capacity. We have towed all three trailers using the same Hensley hitch. There are no sway bars or springs to remove to unhitch. I do remove the draw bar from the receiver or the truck because it does protrude beyond the bumper. While I try hard to avoid high wind situations. We have travelled across the plains states with cross winds up to 40MPH without any sway. No sway from opposing trucks doing 60-65MPH either. The downside of the Hensley and similar ProPride hitches is the initial cost. The only issue i have had with the Hensley was that one of the jacks that tensions the weight distribution springs broke after about 10 years of service. Hensley replaced it for the cost of shipping.

I'm right there with you on the Hensley hitches. We have one for each tow vehicle. Our first one is on our Volvo and the second one is used on our 2005 ford F350 super duty srw crew cab. You're right about them being pricey but once you pull either camper it was easy to justify. I'm not rich but it's money well spent.  Our TH is a Cyclone king and our TT is a Grand Design 32 foot 2800 all season bunk house.

Sorry to hear about your medical. Take care of yourself and do as your Doctor says.

11 hours ago, Chad Heiser said:

Ben,

I didn’t get to see the Volta/Grand Design trailer.  I just saw the article.  I also would like to see more about the equipment they actually used.  

I did see the Victron demo trailer and went over it in pretty good detail.  I didn’t take any pictures of it though.  I install a lot of Victron products and have lots of pictures of their stuff so I didn’t see the need to take pictures of their install.  If you want to check out pictures of installs, you can check out my website in my signature.

I sure will go to your sight. I like the victron you recommended.

Thank you.

On 11/6/2021 at 2:19 PM, Chad Heiser said:

I know it can be done a lot cheaper (since I do it) than what an OEM will charge.  Also most OEM’s don’t have a clue when it comes to solar and inverters (and dealers are even worse).  I’m just glad an OEM is at least thinking about doing something like this and then went to a company that should know what they are doing to get it done right.  

I don’t know much about Volta and their equipment.  It would be nice if an OEM would partner with a company that most people in the off grid world are familiar with and actually really want, like Victron.  I just spent the day recently with Victron reps and their rolling “display” toy hauler.  It had a very nice, large system running the whole trailer and then a several smaller systems mounted on walls and rolling racks in the garage for demonstrational purposes.  It is amazing what can be done when someone who knows what they are doing uses quality equipment to accomplish it.

But then again if everyone had systems like this in their RV’s, a lot of all our favorite boondocking sites would get very crowded.  😜

Hi Chad, very interesting to see that this energy source has finally been taken notice of by Grand Design. Did you happen to get any pictures of the inside equipment on the toy hauler? I would like to think if this venture pans out that more solar suppliers would become competitive with lower price points.  Please keep us all in the loop on this. I'm still learning about all of this, thanks to you.

Ben

2 hours ago, ARGO said:

So I have this fuel drip from the block where the lines come together between the frame. It's on a little bracket above the driveshaft. I'm gonna' pull it off & open it up, looks like a plate on one side. Anybody fool with this? Any experience with what's inside?

Mine was dripping a couple years ago so I just had mine replaced at a mom and pop truck shop. The part wasn't expensive as I recall. Never thought to take the part and tinker with it as I was relatively new to big trucks and didn't know much about them.

11 hours ago, rickeieio said:

We stayed at J&J RV Park in Kanab.  It's located between Zion, Bryce, and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  Nice little town, friendly folks.  We too were 70' and had a back in spot for 8 days.  No issues other than had to park the truck up by the office.  Small place so it wasn't far.

When we were there, Oct. 2019, Zion was very crowded.  You had to park and ride the shuttles, which were packed.  Bryce was better, we were allowed to drive ourselves about, and it was a good thing we had the smart.  North Rim is the icing on the cake.  By far, the best of the lot.

We stayed at the same place for the same parks. 5 days. Nice little town .

On 7/16/2016 at 5:11 PM, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

Following another topic about the Hayes air to electric brake controller, http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Hayes/HA100400C.html, and its rudimentary design has caused me to rethink the Hayes that we have in our Volvo.

 

I realize that I have told several others that the Hayes works and is simple, it does (or did) for us. But I'm beginning to have second thoughts.

 

 

With the resistance knob turned all they way counter clockwise I can feel a tug from the trailer, but in no way was it attempting to lock the brakes. We moved recently from one side of the park we're in too another a better site. The .5 mile journey was all on sand packed roads, so I played with the controller the entire distance. Not once could I skid the tires on sand. They would slow the truck, but even in gear at idle the truck would pull thru the trailer brakes.

 

 

First idea was to make sure that the trailer brakes were operating correctly. Pulled 2 of the Neverlube Drums off (aggravating enough in itself) inspected parts, wires, magnets, etc. Those 2 look great. Very little wear on the pads and drums.

 

 

Second idea was to make sure all the wiring was in working order. Had a neighbor plug in his truck, F350, and step on the brakes. With 1 trailer wheel jacked up, the brakes were tight. I could not rotate the tire at all.

 

 

Now doing all this jacking the tires up, and crawling around underneath gave me the proper excuse to buy another tool. Enter a clip on DC amp meter. UTI design, Amazon next day delivery, decent reviews.

 

 

So I started re-chasing the lack of brake issue with the meter. Started at the trailer axles working forward. Worked all the way to the Hayes Controller.... Its output is 2.4 amp at full resistance. Should be around 11 amps. (Should have started at the front)

 

 

Time to rethink the Hayes....

 

 

Knowing others have had issues with their Hayes, is it worth replacing 1 Hayes with another and hope it operates better, or just go with the Direct link?

 

 

So-

 

 

Has anybody put a Direct Link controller in an older Volvo- 1998 era, and what was the total price?

 

 

Off the DL site-

 

 

Controller is $345

 

 

Cables $124 for the Freightliner 6 pin cable-

 

 

I assume the Volvo cable would be the same 6-pin round port I have under the left side of the dash

 

 

Is this all that's needed?

 

 

Can it really be this easy to spend more money on this trucK!

 

 

I would replace with disc brakes. But the Neverlube axles would have to be replaced, and if we're replacing axles then we're doing MorRyde IS, and we're spending $5500 instead of $500....

 

I went to the Direct link site and purchased their unit for what you stated above. 1997 Volvo WIA, won't be going back with the Hayes units...2 of them... That went tits up.  Have been using the DL now for almost 3 years or so. It works well.

Our 2015 Brabus has awesome lights.

17 hours ago, Brad & Jacolyn said:

Rick apparently you did not know this is a game. You are supposed to fill one side and then see if you can get turned around and back to the pump before the pump shuts off so you don't have to go inside a second time.

Gee whiz.... I've played that game before too. It just didn't work for me.

1 minute ago, chief916 said:

I had same issue about 3 years ago on our 1997 WIA 64 while camping at Myrtle Beach. Found a truck shop there and the owner and his two mechanics weni over every ground on the engine and in the dash. Cleaned them all and Deoxed.  No problems since.

Forgot.....I have a Detroit 60 11.1.

I had same issue about 3 years ago on our 1997 WIA 64 while camping at Myrtle Beach. Found a truck shop there and the owner and his two mechanics weni over every ground on the engine and in the dash. Cleaned them all and Deoxed.  No problems since.

On 7/14/2021 at 8:56 PM, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

Our old Volvo turned 23.... next time around I'm going to see if Hagerty's will cover it.

Now that is something I would like to know...i'm right there with you on the truck age.

On 6/1/2021 at 9:29 AM, Lance A Lott said:

I love my Volvo except it kills my neck. I feel like I need a neck brace, its fine until I hit a dip or pot hole bridge expansion joints can be bad as well. I also get very sore between my shoulder blades. I have driven school buses for 39 years and this never happened with them. I am wondering if it's the seat not being restrained at my desired seat hight, my bus has a strap that could be adjusted to limit up travel so I could put more air and so limit down speed. Any suggestions? I feel like some if those drivers on Ice Road Truckers who drove to fast for road conditions lol.

I put Donval bags on my steer axle and Donval restrictors on my rear airbags. I leave the back slapper off on both seats. Driven from coast to coast twice with no problems.

Get rid of it!

On 6/29/2021 at 9:30 AM, trimster said:

Anyone mounted a Trailer Saver TS3 to an HDT? Use standard mounting rails? Or something beefier?

I'm now researching a shop to install it in Albany,  Or.

 

I used standard mounting rails on mine, I pull about 20/21 k. Several years now. No problems. But I am going to put a plate under it, just have not had the time.

On 5/3/2021 at 9:52 AM, Sculptor said:

Chief, have you reached any conclusions yet about your current needs vs. your equipment choices?

I have recently taken an interest, but only to add capacity to run a CPAP while boondocking.  

Kevin, pm me.

Ben

43 minutes ago, BPepper said:

I have been reading about a direct link system. Would this be a good controller and does anyone know if it will work on a 2001 VNL660? Also, if I use the direct link will I still be able to manually operate the trailer brakes off of the lever to the right of the steering wheel? Currently it works in conjunction with my hayes controller. 

Yes it should work fine. I don't think my trailer brake lever works with this controller but it did with the Max Brake and the hayes controllers that I had previously.

On 4/18/2021 at 9:55 AM, noteven said:

chief - I am a self proclaimed 'lectric dummy - ask Chad and JohnT - but annyways I know you can stick weld mild steel with the amps and volts available in a single group 27 12v battery if the wire is big enough... 

Reliable good quality fuses are the key to a good night's sleep 🤣

 

I believe you,. I almost lost my Volvo a couple of years back because of no fuses on the wires hooked up on a inverter.  I didn't install it, it was in the cab when I bought the truck. I knew nothing about that stuff.  There was a little metal brass air blower that used to blow dirt out to clean the truck and it somehow got fouled up on the lug wires of the inverter.  It was night time and on a 2-lane country road. Heard some sizzling and something smelled bad. Checked my mirrors, saw flames shooting out of my battery box.  Needless to say, just like John Boy and Billy.....it was a sphencter tightening episode.  Got it put out thankfully but the wires were toast. Yessir no fuses. Getting ready to install another inverter but with good fuses.

On 4/16/2021 at 12:49 PM, noteven said:

I think I saw some videos  where Will Prouse took apart some various Grp 27 batteries to look at the wiring and workmanship.

I saw that yesterday. Very interesting.

On 4/15/2021 at 5:29 PM, trimster said:

There a good resource on YouTube... Will Prouse. He buys lots of different brands, tests them then tears them apart. He also tests the other components in a solar system.  Pretty straight ahead guy with lots of knowledge.

Thanks Trimester,. Found him,  So much info.  I'm so glad that they have this know how. Kinda neat that he takes them apart.  Tried to purchase a charger that he recommended but nothing in stock everywhere we looked. Obviously there's a huge interest in this technology.

18 hours ago, Jim & Wilma said:

Dave, I’m guessing the pinion gear, driven by the starter solenoid, is jamming before the teeth engage but enough to hold the starter contacts closed.  

Darryl, don’t see how a bad bendix would keep the starter spinning. 

I agree with Jim and Wilma.  I have a yard tractor that was doing the samething.  Carried a old hammer that I would use to unjam whatever was sticking.  Finally removed the starter and took it in for overhaul.  Around $120. The shop mechanic said it was pinion gear jamming.

On 1/11/2021 at 2:01 PM, Tahoe Shark said:

Congratulations , what a testament to how well you have organized and promoted the event. That is a lot of rigs!

Wow.... someday we're gonna there.  Sounds like a good time.

16 hours ago, trimster said:

There a good resource on YouTube... Will Prouse. He buys lots of different brands, tests them then tears them apart. He also tests the other components in a solar system.  Pretty straight ahead guy with lots of knowledge.

Ok Thanks.