rdickinson
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Posts posted by rdickinson
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9 hours ago, FL-JOE said:
IMHO many of my generation (baby boomers) have for whatever reason decided that fluffy is actually another child they have been blessed with in their golden years. They groom them, dress them up, talk to them like babies, and rarely subject them to the proper training. These types of normally good citizens are not about to leave their babies at home when they can carry them to the grocery store or restaurant with them every day. Nor are they not going to fly without their child. If that involves cheating or lying with some documentation then so be it.
Probably 75% of the readers on this forum know what I'm saying is true because they will be doing one of the things I just described sometime today.
In other words, good luck correcting this issue of folks with fake service dogs taking advantage of the system. It will only get worse.
A good example is the Tampa RV show where the dogs are in buggies being walked about like babies.
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Having read the news item, I'm wondering what assistance the dog could provide it's owner that would involve its teeth??
Muzzle the dog.
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. Too late.
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I have a system similar to Mobile eye, camera, G force indicator plus other features. The biggest feature I was interested in at the time was the lane departure in case I wandered out of the lane BUT mine nd others do not work when there is no white line on either side for it to see. Also if you have the lane set for a certain width and the construction area has narrower lanes, it goes crazy and beeps at you all the time.
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2". Cage had to be enlarged. 450 tires were 22" diameter and 453's were 24".
Shown here is 450.
Extension plates for chocks to accommodate longer 453. Slots allow for flexibility of placement including twisting if car is loaded slightly crooked.
Extensions to A frame to prevent both pulleys from hitting. A frame needed to be stood off the truck more.
This is the older shorter car. Even with a 2x6 to space the frame out more, it was still an issue. There was plenty of Kevlar cable to go to a double line pull. It is slower but less jerky. The new car has a hitch in which I put a snatch block....A marine pulley. Cable goes thru the pulley on the car, and back to the A frame.
1" thick OSB boards to allow car to go over the deck edge without ripping off underbody parts. Same can be accomplished by blocking up the dirt end of the ramps by 2-3" and putting a pce of angle iron in the ramp hinge.
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451's only. Absolutely not the 453. I recall a 453 someone towed behind their MH. It was apart on the shop floor. Trans was trashed. I saw it myself when the hitch was being installed.
Greg said "no tow on" standards.
it is a $1400 operation to get the 451 towable with tow bar plus mechanical modifications.
He is not aware of any special modifications for the US market which would make a difference.
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I will try to drop by the local Service dept at Three Point Motors in Victoria, I can walk in and talk directly to The Service manager, Service writer and Sean the Parts manager, he is the gent who made my hitch.
They will have the latest info. I'll also ask if there is a difference b/w Canadian models and US models...there could be some differences, but I don't know. Will post what I find or links that are current.
My 17 is running fine. They replace the drivers seat belt that wasn't retracting and a cable on the rear lower part of the hatch. Oil change at about 10k miles, next one in another 10k miles. Yes, I know we are metric up here but I hate metric so set instruments for miles.
We have the highest Smart car to people ratio anywhere.
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21 hours ago, GlennWest said:
Well, please post pictures
Of what?
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I find myself less inclined to participate in or on this forum for the same reason others have stated. Dead wrong information. In other cases I ask a question which is important to me, even directing it to those I know have the experience in that very topic but get no response. Lastly when someone has a problem which I have had myself perhaps more than once and I go to the trouble to post a step by step response even providing the names of someone in their immediate area who repaired it for me, they keep asking the same question and getting absolutely wrong answers.
It seems sometimes topics of value get poor if any responses and absolutely childish and moronic topics drag on forever.
Re the current post, I had the same problem in Feb, breaker would blow sometimes then it wouldn't cool. It pulled 29 amps and everyone was off the mark. The Dometic hot line identified the issue and the unit was replaced by a hotshot tech who wired it wrong. It cost another 350$ to get it rewired correctly.
Never mind asking the AC questions here, call Dometic and ask them, THEY are the experts. And don't let some joker sell you a 7 yr old discontinued unit which happened in my case. Dometic could tell by the serial #. It still works ok.
Lastly, off topic re putting a hitch on the new 2017 Smarts, It can be done, I did it and have pics. There are adequate fixing points at the rear in spite of what the so called experts say. Mine was done by a Machinist/ Parts Manager at the Smart car dealer in Victoria.
I have for the most part moved on, finding little value here.
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I used commercial grade tiles in the kitchen and glued them down with epoxy, not the regular flooring adhesive. The adhesive was recommended by the flooring distributor. The regular flooring adhesive will curl inside the cabinets against the wall. The big swings in temps in Calgary from over 100f to 35 below don't help.
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Do you have water filters in line? Are they plugged also do you have a pressure regulator at the cg tap. Mine had the mesh obstructed.
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I pack what I can get away with going thru the border. US Customs does not like us coming thru with tools. Basically my Veto Service bag, skillsaw, various prybars, drill and impact, 2 line laser, Multitool. My 3 Stabilla levels, Kneepro kneepads, ear defenders, various gloves.
All that is needed to work on cleaning up messes on volunteer jobs.
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I had to replace the circuit board on mine a couple of months ago. I have some pics if you think they may be helpful. A relay froze and fried.
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I volunteer with Habitat and other groups. They and others are glad to take singles. Check out Habitat Careavanners.
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I agree with MB, if your rig is self levelling you only need the 1" thick Poly pads 12" x 12". I got a set of 4 plus 2- 3/8" thick ones at the Tampa RV show for 89$ as I recall.
If not self levelling then pack around the cord of wood like me.
10 yrs ago Stan told me not to block the landing gear up more than 7" cus if you mess up hooking up or un hooking and the rig slips off the pads it will make a big crash as it smashes off the hitch and bangs onto the deck....so I've heard.
Enter the custom made Mark 2 model landing gear support blocks. A pair of 3" thick x 9" wide x 16" long and another pair at 5" thick. Did a cutout both sides of the 3" to accommodate the landing gear foot 4" x 8" in 3/4" and one side only of the 5" block. Also made 1.25" thick locking blocks the same size as the landing gear foot. The locking blocks stop the blocks from shifting when stacked and the top cutout stops the landing gear from sliding off the block in case of operator error.
Got the idea from someone at the WCR in Boise last month.
A couple of coats of found deck stain and another couple of found Thompsons water seal. Drill some holes in the end for 3/8" rope for handles and fill excess space in found sicaflex to seal.
Total cost $0.
Had enough to make 1 xtra of each. There is a saying, 1 xtra is none and 2 extra is 1.
Mine are a composite material so no warping or splitting.
Now I just stack the 5 and 3" blocks, drop the sliding part of the landing gear till they hit the blocks, shim the bottom pad with the 3/8" poly if needed, dump the hitch, dump the bags then drive out from under the hitch with no messing with the electric jack.
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At the Indiantown Marina till Sunday am then off to next Habitat build in Ft Meyers for the next 2 weeks. Got the rear ladder sectioned so it could be removed in order to deploy rear window awning. Now ladder can be removed and stored in 2 pcs.
Need photos: ramps ON HDT to park RZR on
in HDT
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Mine's a 2017 Smart loaded from the side. I did modify the placement of the ramps while loading and unloading to eliminate the two front chocks and saving 5+ minutes each way.