Chad Heiser

I have replaced the 6/3 wire going to the power panel in a Teton before.  The Teton model I worked on had the power panels in the bathroom above the toilet.  There was a mirror on the opposite side of this wall next to the entry door.  I removed the mirror and there was an access hole in the wall that allowed me to fish wires up to the panel from the basement.  I actually cut a second access hole to make the job easier.  When I reinstalled the mirror, both access holes were hidden again.

My goes on the bed of the truck when I need to bring it.  I am not full time so it only goes on the truck when we will need it for a particular trip.

Looking forward to more videos.

Congratulations on the channel.  I’ve been a subscriber since you started it.

The all in one units are designed more for stationary, grid tie set ups.  They also become a single point of failure that will kill the entire system if it fails.  If you have enough solar and charge controllers in your system, you can use an inverter without draining the batteries.  With my current system, I can run a single air conditioner, the entertainment center, the residential refrigerator and other basic 120 volt loads with my inverters and not draw down the batteries at all.  My 3390 watts of solar and three MPPT solar charge controllers supply more power than the inverters need to keep my 120 volt needs met during the day.  I can actually run all those appliances and still recharge the batteries if they were depleted overnight.  

The amount you cycle your batteries will be dependent on how much solar you have.  This is the same whether you have an all in one system or a system built with separate components.

The early lithium batteries were a different chemical composition than the industry standard used today for EV’s, RV’s and off grid systems.  The early chemistries had issues with thermal runaway and combustion.  The current chemistry of LiFePO₄ are very stable and no longer present the same issues as the old chemistries.

Bummer.  My mom lost all the electrical in her pick up several years ago due to a lightning strike.  She was driving it at the time too.  It was a close one.  Hopefully you can work something out.  I have a little bit of recent experience with unexpected major changes so I feel your pain.

Has the charge line ever worked?  It may not actually be wired to provide 12 volt power at the 7 pin connector.  I have seen this on other motor homes.  

That is a known issue with the Multiplus II inverters, as you found with the post on Victron community.  I have yet to experience the problem though.  It has been a while since I have seen anyone post about it.  I thought maybe Victron corrected the issue.  Apparently not.

Just something to be aware of (if you weren’t already), it isn’t legally possible to register an HDT as an RV in Florida.  I’m not sure how you have your rig registered, so this may not be an issue for you.  Florida says an RV cannot have a weight bearing hitch.  This means no 5th wheel or gooseneck hitches allowed on a converted HDT registered as an RV.

15 hours ago, GlennWest said:

I am going to have more inverter/s in same location so instead to multiple holes in chassis for grounds, believe I will get me a bussbar and mount it for ground terminals. 

When I install multiple inverters, I often Daisy chain the ground wires from one inverter to the next and then come off the last inverter in the chain to a frame ground.

I always ground the inverter equipment ground lug to the chassis on every installation I do.  It allows for an electrical path to “ground” if there is an internal failure in the inverter.  This way the inverter’s skin won’t hold that electrical charge in the event of a failure.

As to the ground and neutral bonding, this is handled internally inside the Victron inverter.  When there is shore power present, the inverter does not internally bond the neutral and ground.  When no shore power is present and the inverter is inverting, it internally (and automatically) combines the neutral and ground so there is a neutral to ground bond at the source (the inverter).  You do not have to do anything for this to happen.

1 hour ago, Zulu said:

Probably do the L1+L2 combine. However, in the mean time . . .

When using the gen in its current config, do I set my AC Input Limit to 25A and just run a single AC?

SoftStart units are in definitely in my future.

25 A should work for the AC input current limit.  You are currently getting one leg of your generator output.  25 amp might be a bit high if you are pulling heavy loads.  I think the generator only puts out about 22 or 23 amps on each leg, even though there are 30 amp breakers.  With no load on the second leg, it should be able to put out a little more on L1 though.

Victron doesn’t make an American market 240 volt inverter.  None of their American market units will produce 240 volt by themselves while inverting.  The only way to get 240 volts out of an American market Victron inverter is to run two of them in split phase (180 degrees out of phase).  When the inverters are programmed to produce 240 volt power, both inverters are always active.  One is on L1 and one is on L2.  They both have to be active to get 240 volt.

Magnum makes single inverters that produce 240 volt.  Those inverters can be run in parallel to add more power to the system as needed.  In this circumstance, the second inverter doesn’t start producing power until the additional power is needed. 

The MP II will only pass through power on L2 when it senses L2 is 180 degrees out of phase with L1.  In other words only when supplied with 240 volt power like you get from a 50 amp power pedestal (or a 240 volt capable generator).  When the power supplied on L2 isn’t 180 degrees out of phase from L1, the MP II will ignore any incoming power on L2 and combine L1 and L2 internally to supply both legs with the power coming in on L1 (like a 50 to 30 amp dog bone adapter).  A lot of on board Onan RV generators supply power on both L1 and L2, but they do it as independant legs that are not 180 degrees out of phase and do not produce 240 volt when combined.  

The work around to get all the generator power to pass through the MP II is one of two things.  The simplest one is to combine the L1 and L2 generator lines in the transfer switch (move L2 to the lug where L1 is connected).  This will push all the generators output onto L1 and the MP II will then spread that output over both L1 and L2.  This can be done as long as the generators total output isn’t greater than the 50 amp (single phase) pass through capability of the inverter.  The other option is to add an auto transformer to the generator output lines before the transfer switch.  The auto transformer will make the L2 output go to 180 degrees out of phase with the L1 output and in essence turn the generator into a 120/240 volt generator.  This will allow the two legs of the generator to pass through the MP II.

11 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Will VE configure work with Android? 

I’m not sure.  I don’t have an Android device so I don’t stay up on what Victron software will run on it.  I use a laptop for VE Configure and either my iPhone or iPad for VictronConnect.

The software used with the MK3 to USB can be either VictronConnect or VE Configure.  I prefer VE Configure as I like the interface better.

I use Flagpole Buddy ladder mounted flag poles and mounts.  I have used them on three separate RVs with no issues.  They are the best poles and ladder mounts I have found.  All the people I regularly camp with liked my set up so much, they have also gone with Flagpole Buddy for their Rv’s.

4 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Chad, we don't own a PC. I have a Chromebook and my wife has an iPad. We both have android phones. Are we not able to program a multiplus

I believe there is an adaptor for the MK3 to be used on Android devices and the software (different than VictronConnect) is also available for Android devices.  I have never programmed anything this way though as I don’t have any Android devices.

4 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

Thanks, Chad. I was under the impression the Cerbo had Bluetooth and would replace the dongle so could use Victron connect to program. 

The Cerbo does have Bluetooth, but it is limited to some very basic functions on the Cerbo itself.  It is mainly to allow you to connect the Cerbo to a local wifi network so you can access the full functionality through VRM and the internet.

7 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Chad, I was looking at the blue tooth dongle and then reading about the Cerbo unit. Am I correct that it can replace the dongle? I will eventually be buying a dongle for 3 inverters and my shunt as range is poor where it is. I would bee getting close to the price of the Cerbo unit. Noticed you used the PK3 to usb to program your quattro units but didn't have your cebro yet or at least not in service.

The Cerbo will allow you to turn the Phoenix inverter On/Off and put it in Eco mode.  The Cerbo will also show the status of the inverter, the AC output data from the inverter and the DC voltage the inverter sees.  You can also change the custom name of the device through the Cerbo.  The Cerbo will not allow you to make setting changes on the Phoenix though.  To make those changes, you need the Bluetooth Dongle and VictronConnect.  Once the settings are set properly though, there is no reason to change them. 

I always use an MK3 to USB device to program the large inverters (Multiplus and Quattro).  It can be done through the Cerbo if the Cerbo is connected to the internet, but that process is not always 100% effective.  Due to the communication process used over the internet, it can fail.  Victron used to give a dialog warning during the remote programming process warning that the process could fail and if it did fail, someone would have to physically program the inverter with an MK3 in person.  For some reason they have since removed this dialog warning though.  When I do program a Multiplus or Quattro through the Cerbo via the internet, I always have a plan to also physically plug into the inverter and program it if the remote process fails.  

I have six VE.Direct devices connected to my Cerbo.  The Cerbo only has three VE.Direct ports though.  Three of my devices are connected directly to the VE.Direct inputs on the Cerbo and the other three are connected to a USB hub with VE.Direct to USB adapters.  The hub is then plugged into one of the USB ports on the Cerbo.

1 hour ago, Tippy said:

Hey Everyone in the process of going all in on the full time RV lifestyle.  My wife and I sold the house and rental house April of 2021 then sold everything else and moved onto the boat.  We ordered a Luxe 47FB this past January, it should be done within the next couple of weeks.  We have a VNL730 in process with RVH.  We plan pick it all up the end of September and take our time getting back to Washington in October.  We will move onto the RV and be staying in Poulsbo, WA while I finish my last year of work before hitting the road full time in the RV.  Still debating  on whether or not we keep or sell the boat.  This forum has been a great source of information over the past couple of years while I have been lurking around reading everyone's posts and searching information out.

David 

Congratulations and good luck with the process.

My Phoenix 1200 is always on.

We have a 13’ garage.  We use an 8’x10’ area rug.  We roll it out once the RZR comes out of the garage.  It fits perfectly between the walls side to side (our DRV Full House is 8’6” wide on the outside).  Front to back it butts up against the front wall and goes to the start of the beaver tail drop at the back of the garage.  When we are ready to load the RZR, the rug gets rolled up and laid down the center of the garage floor.  The rug makes the garage feel more like a regular room than a garage.

4 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Do I need to order the Bluetooth dongle to modify settings or is factory settings good? It is an option and I don't see the need. All it does is pull from batteries and creates 120v. Am I missing something? 

The Dongle will allow you to set the low battery cut off and restart as well as a few other settings.

4 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Can I simply pull refrigerator line off of of sub panel and run to transfer switch and feed input with that same breaker fridge was on?  

If you have a stand alone transfer switch like the Magnum TS15 or similar, then yes you can isolate the refrigerator circuit and power it directly.  Remove the refrigerator circuit from the breaker box and wire it to the output side of the transfer switch.  Add new wire from the refrigerator breaker in the panel box to the input side of the transfer switch.  Plug the transfer switch pigtail outlet into the inverter (either directly or with an appropriately sized extension cord).  This will allow the circuit to be powered from the inverter or shore power automatically.