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TXiceman

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Posts posted by TXiceman

  1. 2 hours ago, Lou Schneider said:

    The basic problem is the weight of the RV means you have to run 100 PSI in the tires on terrain where much lower pressure would let the tires float on top of the ground instead of digging in.  If you have 30 PSI in a car tire it will press down on the ground with 30 lbs on every square inch of the tire's contact area.  If your tire is inflated to 100 PSI it means the ground has to support 100 lbs per square inch. Vehicles driven in mud or sand often run less than 10 PSI of pressure in their tires.

    I

    Lou, that is not how it works.  By de-airing the tire, you will generally provide a larger footprint for the tire to exert pressure on the ground this having fewer pounds per square inch on the ground.  30 PSI in the tire does not mean 30 psi on the ground.  The tire will still support the same weight on a larger footprint.

    Say the tire is carrying 5000 LB and with 80 psi pressure in the tire and say the tire has 100 square inches contact area, the tire exerts 50 sq. in. pressure under it on the ground.  Say you deflate the tire to 40 psi and the contact area goes up to 150 sq. in. the pressure exerted will be 33.33 psi exerted on the ground.

    You cannot make magic work on sand.

     

    Ken

  2. From the Passports I found online, it appears to have a Schwintek or the LIppert In-wall system.

    They have a drive motor on each side that is controlled by a common controller.  The controller is a small box mounted somewhere in a locker or basement.  You will need to find this controller to see what you have and then download the instructions for trouble shooting from the manufacturer.  There are also You Tube videos online showing how to trouble shoot and bypass the controller safeties, but you have to know what you have.

    One thing the people do not take care of is the maintenance on the tracks and rollers.  Also, many do not know that once you start running the room in or out, you have to take it all the way and then hold down the switch for 5 seconds for the motors to synchronize properly.

    Heather, if you want help, you need to supply the needed information.

    Ken 

  3. 2 hours ago, zen2185RI said:

    Ken I would most likely go lower than 8000 to give myself more wiggle room.  Again this will be a beginner RV for us.  If this goes well, then we'd be looking to replace my truck with a 3500.  Wish I had stuck with my original idea of a 2500, but I can make a 1500 work for the 2 of us to start out.  This why I suggested something with a much lower GVWR.  I am going to struggle with meeting my price point along with a GVWR that is acceptable to tow.

     

    Just for a little more education, we would be starting with short weekend trips locally.  Overtime we'd extend our trips ensuring that we remain within our weight limits.  With each trip we would gain knowledge and determination if this is what we want to do come retirement.  If we decide to go forward, we'd purchase a larger truck and then a larger trailer to meet our needs.  This first phase will take place over the course of 5-10 years as we approach retirement.  Retirement is when we plan to take our bigger trips whether they be with an RV or deciding to go without an RV and go with hotels.

     

    Jason

    Jason, it is sad that you are not ready to step up to the big rigs.  In late November/early December we will be selling the rig in our signature.  Been a great full-time rig.

    Hope you have a fantastic time in the RV.  

    Ken

  4. Personally, with your 1500 series truck, I would limit my search to trailer with a GVWR of no more than 8000#, maybe 8500#.  When you load up the trailer with kids, cargo and hitch weight, you will be maxed out in most cases.  Start out by getting the truck on the scales with your normal travel cargo, full fuel and add 100# for the hitch.

    We have been full time for 9.5 years and see way too many rigs with too much trailer for the truck.  They went totally with the maximum tow numbers from the truck brochure with no regard to the footnotes.

    Ken

  5. 16 hours ago, Kirk W said:

    This quote reminds me of something that I discovered when we were volunteers for the Oregon State parks. The state park rangers have no arrest authority at all but must call a local law enforcement agency if visitors do not comply with ranger directives. All of the other state parks that we have volunteered in had some LEO rangers, as do most federal parks with the exception of the COE.

    The state and NWR's where we volunteered the LEO rangers were either state or federal officers.  It surprised some people when they got a ticket, and the vehicle plainly was labeled as "State Police" or Federal Game Warden

    One state park in Texas, while we were at the office, a lady called in and reported that she had received a speeding ticket in the park and wanted to know if she had to pay the ticket.  She did not feel that they had the authority to issue speeding tickets.  When we told the Park Peace Officer, he just laughed.  He said normally, he would have just given her a verbal warning, but she had too much mouth and attitude and talked herself into a citation for the full amount over the posted limit.

    Some people just don't understand or care.

    Ken

  6. 6 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

    While younger, healthier people may be able to safely loosen up their safeguards, they still should be aware of the people around them who have more risk, Jetelina says. “We cannot just put the onus entirely on the vulnerable. Our layers of protection are not perfect.”

    Kirk, you are so right on this.  This is a worldwide problem, and everyone needs to do what is required to keep everyone healthy.

  7. Kirk, I have to agree with the article based on the science.  I was talking to a respiratory therapist last night and she said she was still taking this seriously.  She said that they had three COVID cases admitted to the hospital in the past week.  This is in Bryan/College Station area at just one hospital.  Until we can get more vaccinated, it will still be around.

    Take care and stay safe,

    Ken

     

  8. 2 hours ago, JimK said:

      Running a small electric heater will produce the equivalent of about 1000 BTU/hr.  A couple of hours a day means 2000 BTU.

    The basic conversion for electric heat is 1500 Watts (1.5 kWatt) equals 5,118 BTUH.  You can just ratio this value down to 1000 Watts equals 3,412 BTUH and 500 Watts equals 1,716 BTUH.

    1000BTUH equals 293 Watts which is a very small electric heater.

    Ken

     

  9. Our daughter had a Winnebago Minnie Plus and they were very pleased with it compared to the trailer some of their friends had.  It seemed to be reasonably well constructed for the price point.

    We have looked at Lance and they seem to be reasonably well constructed. 

    Oliver is higher dollar, but seem to be well constructed.

    I think that Air Stream is way overpriced and overrated now.  They have a cult-like following.

     

    Ken

  10. There is no way to make electric heaters more efficient.  1500 Watts (1500 Watts with 120 volts is 12.5 amps) is equated to 5118 BTUH.  If you are off grid, trying to heat with an electric heater powered form batteries and an inverter is not the best solution.  You need to either use the propane furnace (and batteries) or get a Mr. Buddy catalytic heater.

    Happy camping.

    Ken

  11. 11 hours ago, whj469 said:

    Most of the people I know speak poorly of electric vehicles but my son-in-law, a long time Exxon Chemical Engineer, and a Texas Aggie told me 

    Well, there you go.  The problem is apparent.  First, he is a Chemical Engineer and second, he is an Aggie Engineer.  Ha ha ha.😁

     

    Ken

     

  12. AKP, I would not live in your RV through a Montana winter.  It is not built for that kind of cold.  Sure people do it, but it will be a chore.

    The heater water hose does nothing to keep the water faucet from freezing.  I would fill the freshwater tank and operate from the tank and refill when the temperature is above freezing.

    Another big issue in the winter in these RVs is condensation on the windows and in closets and in the corners.  To help the condensation, you will need to practice good humidity control.  keep a roof vent cracked open, run the vent fan when showering and cooking.  Still the human body expels lots of moisture from the skin and while breathing.  

     

    Good luck,

    Ken

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