Deezl Smoke

9 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Ain't nobody gonna tell him it's never "really" done? There's always something tempting you, either to add, upgrade, or repair. Looks good, though.

😂👍  Words of wisdom from the experienced.

 Do you have any plans to head toward the Pacific NW?

 What cb did you go with?

 This morning, May 15 2024, about 10:15ish am, I spotted a light blue Volvo with a white smart on back, dragging a beige 5er at the state scales on US26 westbound, just west of Portland Oregon, weighing their axles.

 Anyone claim that?

 Ok so I may not be as far off on my thought. That curvature on the windshield may have helped direct and amplify the sun.

 If I make another trip with it on the back like that, I shall take along an old teeshirt to cover the windshield. My intention eventually is to exchange places with the Ebike inside and set the Ebike on the tail. I have a full cover for it.

 I used to carry a Honda XR 650 on the back of my RV. I've since traded for a fuel injected bike for higher altitudes, a Kawasaki KL 650.

 The Honda had no windshield. The Kawasaki, does but I installed an aftermarket higher one as seen in the pictures.

 This past weekend here in Oregon, I was checking out a few museums and national monuments. While doing so, the KLR was on the back, in the sun. When I got home this morning and unloaded the Kawasaki, I noticed this spot on the dash just under the windshield. At first I thought something had gotten pulled up behind the rv and stuck between the windshield and the dash, but there are no marks on the windshield so that was not the case.

 After some time thinking about it, I got to wondering if the shape of the windshield may have focused the sun light and melted this pattern.

 What do you think? Could this be the case or....?

6 hours ago, Steve from SoCal said:

Here is a pic of the structure it is just below the seam on the sleeper lower shell.

 That ain't going anywhere. That formed channel that you fastened into draws structure from all around.

5 hours ago, Steve from SoCal said:

My sleeper has hard points on the side wall where the upper bunk brackets were and the closet walls.    There is also some bracing in the frame that could easily accept some rivnut or self tapping screws with enough strength to support a wall mount.    I have a microwave on a shelf that weighs about 30 lbs screwed into some original hard points and a few self tappers.     

 

 

 And then put a heavy frozen food item in there, and it would easy out weigh a 25lb AC.

 Definitely would use mobile AC hose and bulkheads at the sleeper floor.

 Because the need is likely less than 100 hours a years, my concern is not really worth the effort, but would be mounting the condenser horizontal.

 I have a diesel bunk heater that I like, so wont need the mini for heat. My travel style at this point would only need the AC for sleeping. I wont likely be at the rig during the day. No pets or children.

 My main living quarters is in the truck sleeper. It's a newer model Peterbilt, that has a factory installed TV mount. The factory installed "smart air" system is sub par at best. It is a 12vDC mini split of sorts. It has a remote mount condenser with fan etc.

 So I have been considering a small 110vAC mini split that would run either on the generator when boon docking, or on grid at a park. I'm a weekend warrior, not a full timer. Looking around I can find 9k btu units everywhere, and a few 6k btu units which is plenty, but i need reasonable quality to take the abuse of driving mobile.

 Most of the small units that list weights, show about 25lbs for the evaporator unit inside. I don't own any TV and can not seem to find much on the weights of a TV that one would usually mount on a TV arm style mount. Some flat screen 32" show about 25 to 30lbs shipping weight.

 What are your thoughts on a modern truck sleeper frame work supporting a 25lb mini split inside unit? I can remove the arm part and mount it closer to the wall using the mounting frame of the sleeper if needed.

 Saw a green WS towing a nice 5er today near Hillsboro Oregon just south of US26 at exit 57. Anyone here resemble that description?

10 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Don't you mean, swapped out to gas?  I know several people who bout those, and dropped in gas motors later.

 Been there, done that, got the tee shirt.

 The rig in my avitar was a 6.2L that I later swapped out for a 454cid. Easiest swap ever. 3 line fuel pump, ignition power to the coil, and homemade radiator hoses. Throttle cable, just a simple part swap. The torque converter on the 6.2 has different perimeters, but still works.

 The 6.2 has a vacuum pump to operate the trans and hvac, so simple to plumb that hose in the manifold on the 454.

 Just more fuel for this type of fire.

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

Time to bust out the ol' slide rule.  Torque x RPM  = HP/5252  But where did 5252 come from?

I haven't driven enough new stuff to be sure, but it seems the newer motors are making more torque, but keeping the rpm lower, thus the great pulling power with low hp figures.

 It's fun to know where the number came from.

On 2/17/2024 at 12:23 PM, noteven said:

Myth: it’s horsepower not torque.

It’s why heavy haul companies are replacing 2050lbs-ft torque Cummins’s’z with really Tuned up 6.7 Powerstrokes

  "Myth: it’s horsepower not torque."

 Bar none one of my favorites.👍

 Why do the hp and torque graph curves cross at roughly 5252 rpm?

6 hours ago, lenp said:

Deezl,

I live over the hill from you in Madras.  My preferred route south is US 20 east to Burns then OR 78 to US95 to Winnemucca followed by I80 SW to US95 again.  Then all the way on 95.  Very mild pulls after your over the Cascades.

Lenp

 I have a small 20 acres in Christmas valley on 5-14 just east about 6.5 miles from town. I have a small gravel rv pad on it. I love driving 78. Went through Rome and viewed the pillars etc driving up 95. I personally like 395 south from the Wagontire intersection, and 140 east. But I've only been to Denio junction. I'll have a look at 80 and see if any passes are clear.

6 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Okay, now I get it.  There's I-95 in the east, US-95 in the west, and SR-95 in CA or AZ or elsewhere.

But wait, there's more!!  We live in Indiana, where North Bend is in the south, South Bend is in the north, and French Lick ain't what you think.

LOLOLMAO!!🤣

47 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

I'm corn-fused. Is there another I-95 besides the one that runs up the east coast?

 The "95" I'm using starts up about Kingsgate Idaho, actually further north, but for USA, Kingsgate Idaho, then south through Quartzsite. So maybe my lack of knowledge on the highway system is showing here. Could it be US 95 that still goes interstate?

9 hours ago, aknavy said:

Just did this route a couple weeks ago.  Nice road, nice views, barely any traffic.  Just make sure you have fuel, as it's sparse for that stretch.

 

 On I95 or the old 95 which I think they call SR95 now?

41 minutes ago, spindrift said:

Walker Lake in NV has some interesting history.  Lots of folks don't appreciate desert views.  I can't get enough of them.

 100% That's why I have a sunny desert on my driver's side and a moon lit desert on the passenger's side of my rig.

 I'm hoping to get out of here (Hillsboro Oregon) maybe later this week, and find some sunshine for a day. Looking at the forecasts, the I5 Siskiyou pass looks clear, and the return passes going north on 95 look ok enough at this point.

 So If I were to get to Quartzsite, I see SR95 from Quartzsite up to I40 looks like a more scenic drive. But I'm asking if anyone knows the condition of the road and/or if it is worth it, or just stay on the interstates?

 My travel style is different than most. At this point in my traveling career I am more interested in the macro view from my driver's seat, than the time exploring the micros of an area on a motorcycle, e-bike or quad etc. That may come later.

 Thanks for any tips or warnings. This would be my first time so far south.

 I have no opinion, just figured this video by Steve Lehto (MI lemon law attorney) might be interesting.

 Fireball tool made a video about 2 years ago using an old shaper to test the old file backwards myth. Normally I'd post a link, but I can't seem to get the video to play on youtube. It just opens then goes white screen.

 But if you search youtube for fireball tool file, it should come up. It was a very interesting video. I'll not spoil the results, you'll have to watch it.😉

 Ok, it was my computer. I got it to play. So here's the link.

And,....check with your insurance company. You may need to do some real research and changes to your insurance needs over all. It's important to find a good, experienced agent that can guide you through the process. It can be truly amazing how much can be saved when your agent knows how to combine policies.

 Then, look into a roadside service program. Some can use AAA, some Sam's club, and many, like me, use Coachnet.

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

What brought this myth to the top was when I was checking pressures on the truck yesterday.  Drives say 110 psi.  I aired to 70 psi.  Manufacturer's chart doesn't go so low as to recommend pressure for our load, so rather than risk having a tire come off the bead, I run more air.

I also noted that my steers are only rated for 75 mph at max load and pressure.  We're about 90% of max load, so I feel the occasional blast above that speed to make a clean pass is okay.

 So I'm not sure if this statement I am making is myth or fact, but IIRC, DOT ratings for tire speed and other applications, are minimum 2x safety rated, possibly 3x. So the 75mph rating at max advertised load, on average, in approved testing environments should not fail until a minimum of 150mph. Now I am certain that temperature and other variables are considered, but in lab testing under guidelines approved by DOT, the 75mph is half or less of "lab test" failure speed.? I honestly do not know, just what I remember "hearing" years back. Likely myth, but....

 For no real good reason, I seem to, on average, take my steer tire conditions and pressures more seriously than the drives. IE: I tend to run them, though lower than marked on the tire, higher than what I would run for ride quality. I am lighter on the steers than most here, and much of that is because I am still tandem drive and have some weight behind the drive trunnion.

 WOW, that was an awesome deal. You don't have to store that axle and you got the drive installed. Were you able to keep any tires or wheels from the front axle?