gypsydan

On 8/19/2021 at 10:10 AM, mr. cob said:

However she did find a company that would insure the truck at an agreed value of $55.000.00 the company is called "Nationwide" does anyone have any experience dealing with this company?  I would like to have the opinion of others who have dealt with Nationwide, good or bad before I commit to doing this, thanks.  Going with Nationwide would cost me 61 cents a day more then staying with Progressive, I am leaning real hard towards Nationwide.

Dave

I had a 3 day contract with Nationwide. On reading the contract i discovered a clause which stated the RV had to be in-state for 7 months out of the year to be valid.  The agent was unaware (?) of that clause. You might want to have the agent check it out, and if possible get a copy of the contract before purchasing.  I have since discoveed that while agents are well meaning, and most are wanting to be helpful, they are sales people looking for the commission

It always pays to read the FINE PRINT.

On 7/15/2021 at 3:25 PM, RandyA said:

No agent - go directly to National General.  Have Full Timer policy on trailer which provides better liability coverage and loss of contents is higher. 

It is sad that we have to do our own due process in finding insurance.

I was insured with a famous agency and asked for a new policy, hoping to get a better price. They insured me with National General. It was several weeks before I got a chance to actually read the entire policy, beyond the Coverage Summary.  I discovering that it stated I had to be in the state for which it was written seven (7) months out of the year for it to be effective. Agent had NO CLUE that was in the policy.

I am now with Progressive.  Rates have gone from $580 in 2017 to $1132 in 2021.  Because of this thread I'm waiting for a call from my agent, to talk. 😬

On 7/13/2021 at 9:57 PM, aknavy said:

My agent:

Cory Jacobs

Executive Sales Agent

800 Superior Ave. E.

Cleveland, Ohio 44114

(216) 592-7173

Cory.Jacobs@ngic.com

 

Just sent me my renewal paperwork today, so I know he does for Florida.  Not sure if your location causes issues, but give him a call.

I've been reading this very informative thread, where every comment brings up interesting questions, like "If you are a full-timer, and your location constatnly changes, why would location of your policy matter when you do not have a location."  Is "location" dependant on your tax and legal domicile?  Something I will have to ask my agent.

On 7/12/2021 at 2:03 PM, Pat & Pete said:

That would call for the case to be opened and invite some of your friends .

There are agents that do exactly what you'd think they should/would be doing , not simply collecting premiums .

Any clue as to where to find those agents?

On 8/9/2021 at 11:52 AM, bigjim said:

Just for clarity you mean Silver City not Silver Springs.

Correct.

2 shops in Deming are recommended by locals:

Auto Tech at. 2370 Country Club Rd. SE  about 2.4 miles off freeway

Harris Auto Electric at. 223 Pine  (Jerry)

There is only one RV repair place in town - Jimmy’s RV Repair, about 1/2 mile north of freeway on Gold, toward Silver Springs.

Thank you all.  Learned what I wanted, so this track. Can probably be closed.

What does the “current ranking” mean at top of the profile page?  How does it change?

On 4/27/2021 at 4:41 PM, Kirk W said:

Has anyone read the book?    

Fantastic book. I gave it to my family to read, so they would have a slight incling as to what living on the could be like.  The description of the low income aspect of RVing displayed in the book, which seems prevalant on the road, was sad.

I can only imagine what the road is going to be like with all the evictions starting, especially if many being evicted are able to somehow find an RV to live in.  The RTR group should pickup new members, and maybe somehow create a safetynet.

Thank you all for the wise words.  I've had the problem since I got the RV 4 years ago.  It is a 2009 THOR, which, being a THOR, might be one reason for the problem. 

I never thought about stiff pex causing the rattleing as it transmitted the pump vibrations.  It will be impossible to fix that vibration, as the pipes are enclosed within walls, which I can't get to. I can put shocks and vibration dampers under the pump, and foam around the pipes I can get to. I will have to look closely at whether or not I can install flexible piping at inlet and outlet, as has been suggested, which should help dampen pump vibration.

Thanks.  Got it taken care of. 

I need some front-end work done on my tow car.  Does anyone know of a "reputable" repair shop in Deming, NM., or even in NM.

Thanks

Needing to fix my EPDM roof.  I've used DICOR self-leveling in the past, but would like to find something else.  I've talked with DICOR and they admit their sealant has a problem with collecting dirt over time, and thus turning black. I have used elastomeric on the roof of a mobile home, but have heard it does not work on EPDM roofs.

Does anyone know of a sealant other than dicor which would do the job, and not collect dirt and turn black?

this is a poll to determin something

Has anybody actually been to the Rock Springs fairgrounds to see what the full hookup parking is like, as well as the boondocking sites?

I was at a small Gathering yesterday and one of the people there said they had been to rock Springs to see what it was like. They were giving a parking space that had a coral like enclosure around it. She was in a class B and said she had a problem parking in the slot they gave her. Furthermore she couldn’t reach the hook up posts (electric-water-dump), and was actually told she would need extra long electrical dump hoses.   

We began wondering what the campground was really like. We could imagine hundreds of RVs showing up and no one could park, or use the hook ups. So my above question?  Are there any pictures of the parking? 

 

On 8/24/2020 at 4:31 PM, fpmtngal said:

 I was in Show Low for 2 months (and now in Ruidoso) 

Ruidoso is an interesting place. I lived their in 2005, on Sudderth, across from a large RV park with a creek going through it. The day I left Ruidoso I was sitting in the parking lot lamenting about never having seen a bear while their. As I’m lamenting, a black one walked behind my van and went into the park across the street. I love it when synchronicity shows up in my life. 

Thanks for the various reply’s. I note it is used extensively in smaller engines. Until I hear more about putting it the oil (don’t want to remove carbon buildup around rings) I will hold off on doing that. Will though put it through carburetor and generator (which doesn’t get used that much). 

A friend told me about the SEAFOAM additive which he uses in the Engine of his RV. I'm wondering if anyone has used it in their engine. I have an E350 with a V10, and use synthetic oil with 135,000 miles on the engine. Before putting SEAFOAM in the gas and oil, I'm wanting to find out what expereinces others have had with SEAFOAM.

Surfing YouTube can be fun, especially when you find articles that are very useful, like this one which tested AIR FILTERS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJ3L-E-ufYo

The Project Farm channel has tested many types of products, which might be interesting to look at what has been tested on the YouTube channel.

On 8/28/2020 at 7:37 AM, Kirk W said:

I suggest that the first thing that you do is to place a small, 120V van into the lower section of your cooling unit, pointing up and leaving the access panel off. I have done this in hot weather as a quick assistance to an RV refrigerator and if the cooling unit has not begun to fail, that will probably help pretty quickly,  The first picture below is of a fan that I would use first, then one of the fans for the interior chill box.

  

Thank you for your input. I DO NOT recommend the blue fan, above, by Vitera, as it is useless. I bought it and discovered it has NO air flow because the fan blade is to small. I got one from Target, a 5" fan by Treva that is battery operated and works great. I do need to still put a fan to draw the air through the upper cooling fins by the roof, but can't do that until after I've closd the sale of my home, and have gone full-time.

I am having a problem getting my refrig down to 40 degrees. I'm in tucson, with daily ambiant temp's of 104-114, and at night it is going down to 80. All day the box temp was at 70+. Tonight, at 9pm, ambiant temp is down to 86, and refrig is now down to 50. The freezer does not have a problem, as it is in the teens. The refrig is on the shady side. I am assuming the ambiant temp is having a lot to do with not letting the box cool. I don't have a fan in the box, and am unable to find one, but will try finding a computer chassi fan to see if that will help.

Luckily I am not on the road, but with sale of house closing in 5 days, I will then be forced to live in RV as I will be a full-timer at that point. I thus have a couple of questions:

1. How does outside ambiant temp effect the box temp? 
2. If outside temp effects the box, why would it not also effect the freezer? 
3. How can I tell if crystals have built up in system, causing the cooling cycle to not work properly?
4. How, though, would a fan help cool the box. I know it works to circulate the air to keep refrig items cool, but if the fins are at 40 degrees, what would keep the rest of the box from also being the same temp? 
5. Door seals are only 3 years old?

Any help and comments will be appreciated.

On 8/22/2020 at 10:26 AM, Bill Joyce said:

Make sure your iPad has a GPS built-in, since some WiFi-only models do not.  You can tell if you have a GPS when maps show your location correctly.

Thanks.

Fantastic replies from all of you. What I wanted to hear. I'm committed now, with a closing date of next week, so what happens will happen. I've been on the raod long enough that I hope I know what to do. I mostley boondock, so I will find out how that has changed. I bought a lot at Rovers Roost several years ago, before this heat wave.

The one issue I did not anticipate was this heat. I'm looking for a small a/c unit to suppliment the roof unit, but this has proved to be a challenge. I'm looking for something that will fit in the upper windows in the overhang (class C), but no luck to date. Hope I don't end up having to put in a unit in the big window, but we will see.

BTW, the smoke from CA is limiting visibility to what looks like about 15 miles here in Tucson. Another challenge?

Thanks again for your stories. Very interesting to see what others are experiencing. 

 Replaced thermistor, with no luck. I have the ARP installed, so my next move may be to call them - after I review some YouTube videos.