SuiteSuccess

1 hour ago, DesertMiner said:

Also did it throw a code? 

No, when I went into diagnostics to see the code it said “data transfer in progress “ followed by “operation failed”. Did this multiple times with same results. 

8 minutes ago, DesertMiner said:

Remove the unit from the dash and clean the connector.  

Thanks DM. That’s in the plan also. I took it out about 8 years ago and cleaned.  RandyA had a good write up on how to do it. That time fan was occasionally blowing hot air. Worked perfectly up until today. 

48 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Jim, I would bet you could have relays and /or sensors involved.  Don't know anything specific to western star, just going by my old days of working on various AC systems

Thanks Chuck but it’s 2006 Volvo 780. Will check my relays. Thanks for the suggestion. 

Need some help. On the way to Hutch and stopped at Rest Stop. When I restarted truck message flashed “Check Climate Module Datalink”.  Shut down, cycled key three times and restarted. Same message. Result is no ac and front fan won’t come on. Compressor will not kick in. Rear fan works but no cool air. Fuses are good.  Gonna check all grounds in the morning. Any ideas?  Also will not send codes. Says data transfer failed in diagnostics. 

2 hours ago, Danandfreda said:

Hi Carl do you know if David “Georgiahybrid” is going to be at the rally?

Yes, after the balloon fest in Albuquerque.

15 minutes ago, Big5er said:

I thought pissing off people was my domain Carl. What did you do??

😂

Trying to submit couple of campgrounds to resource guide.  Tab says prohibited by administrator.  Any reason why?

When’s the pre-rally starting at Hutch?

14 minutes ago, Imurphy907 said:

Alcoa replied to keep the wheels under 300° to prevent damage. So with that bit of info you can find 300° or less heat indicators and put them on. bear in mind the Alcoa stickers are INSIDE the wheel. So its going to read a truer temp then a sticker on the outside where air flow will keep it a few degrees cooler then the wheel itself. But something like this https://www.grainger.com/product/THERMAX-Non-Rev-Temp-Indicator-8AUC2 would give you a decent idea of what your wheel has seen.

Thanks for the info.  I shot my wheel temp with infrared immediately upon exiting the truck.  It was 190*.  So likely wheel was not thermally damaged or weakened?  Is that correct?

Glen,

Just a question for you and the forum in general.  Does our trailer insurance cover flood damage or is it a special policy/endorsement  like a stick and brick house?

Glen,

First off be safe. Nothing material is worth your life or health. Second if the water subsides be careful of snakes and other creatures in your area. Thirdly, be sure and repack your wheel bearings if the hubs were under water. Grease usually gets washed out of hubs. Truck also if hubs were submerged. 

4 hours ago, Imurphy907 said:

You can not buy the Alcoa heat indicators. But there are many similar products from Grainger or similar. You just need to pick the heat setting.
I have reached out to my dealer rep to see if they will tell me what the temp range actually is on their sticker. I will reply if/when I find out.

Thanks for any info. 

42 minutes ago, GregandLeaT said:

Hey Carl, glad you stopped by and to meet Donna and yourself ! Maybe see you again before we leave Friday for 30th annual Teton rally in OKC....

Nice to meet you also. Safe trip if we don’t meet up. 

10 minutes ago, HERO Maker said:

Got it.  Well in that case if you are looking for another campground to stay at before Hutch, try Sunflower loop at Hillsdale Lake State Park, south of Olathe, KS.  Not sure of availability, since a lot of the other campground loops are closed, but this one is high and dry.  At least that is where I have a reservation starting the end of next week!

Thanks 

Haha. Rocky, we’re in Deer Creek Valley RV Park in Topeka KS. 😀

Hey Rocky,

We’re spending a week at Deer Valley.  Any other nice places around to spend a week or two?

Hutchinson next month. Just wandering around this area for couple of weeks. My dad was raised in Junction City/Herrington area so gonna explore there. 

Passed a Volvo pulling New Horizons on 56 outside Dodge City KS.  Also white Volvo in Deer Creek Valley RV Park in Topeka, KS. Anyone on this forum?

1 hour ago, TreyandSusan said:

To add to DesertMiners find

Google Search for hi-spec "series 10" 17.5 may yield additional options

Or you could contact hi-spec directly - in the past they've sold directly to me

 

Thanks Trey. Have tried Google and found what DM posted. Tried HiSpec direct and closed today. Will try again. 

10 hours ago, Av8r3400 said:

I just converted to 17.5 Alcoas.  I needed to replace the brake drums with 9/16" studded drums.  This allows for the "Hub Piloted" 17.5 wheels to center properly.  My OEM 1/2" stud drums were "stud piloted" therefore not compatible with the new wheels.

I got the entire kit of drums, wheels, lugs etc. from Southwest wheel.  I sourced the tires locally.  I was a little disappointed with the Chinese "bearings in a bag" that came with the kit.  I replaced them all with name brand "Timken" bearings and seals.

I went with an 245/70R17.5 18 ply 6200 pound tire.  No more blowouts.  Wheels and tires will follow me to new trailer when that happens.

 

 

Very nice.  

10 minutes ago, phoenix2013 said:

My wife has metal hip, I have two knees, We had a "discussion" with "the folks"  about what will happen after cremation. They actually have a service where a person shows up and "retrieves the spare parts".

Phoenix,

Be sure to have that same discussion about gold teeth, lol.  Can be worth a lot of $$$.  BTW prosthetic hip stem would make a great gear shift knob.

21 minutes ago, rdickinson said:

I may be out in left field about this but I went thru this 6-7 yrs ago.  The original tires on my Travel Supreme were 16 or 16.5's, can't recall.  They were upgraded to 17.5's.  I think the diameter was the same or close to it.  There is  a safe distance between the tires.

The wheels were ordered with 1/2 or 9/16"" lugs .  Mark Bruss dealt with this in a topic some years ago.

I'd say, lug size and diameter of tire are two key considerations.  My tires are rated at 4800 capacity and  are run at about 75% of the recommended max tire pressure.  Running at full pressure would make for a rough ride.

Truck and trailer are both run at 90 psi, Crossfire on the rear duals and a tire pressure monitor in the cab.

17.5's are the way to go from my standpoint.

My trailer already has 17.5s.  I had a wheel damaged by a brake caliper that let loose and gouged the inside of the wheel.  I was just looking to replace that wheel with the same wheel (HiSpec) but their web site didn’t list a 17.5 inch size in the series 10.  Looks like DesertMiner may have found it.

2 minutes ago, DesertMiner said:

I Found this

Thanks DM.  Even says series 10.  Wonder why it’s not on HiSpec site?

11 minutes ago, DesertMiner said:

I guess i need to ask...why would you need to use a 16 inch rim on a 17.5 tire?

That’s what I’m questioning.  My wheel is definitely HiSpec even stickered as such on the wheel.  The only wheel the HiSpec site shows that looks like my wheel is the series 10 but it doesn’t show anything above a 16 x 6.5 HD in an 8 bolt pattern.  Like you, thought it should be a 17.5 inch wheel.

http://www.hispecwheel.com/products/786/Series-10

My wheels are HiSpec series 10 I believe.  The biggest wheel size in this series is 16 x 6.5 HD in  an 8 bolt pattern.  Is this what I need for a replacement 17.5 inch tire (215/75R17.5)?  This is to replace my damaged wheel from the brake caliper.