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Zulu

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Posts posted by Zulu

  1. 1 hour ago, Dutch_12078 said:

    Tom, are you aware of any DPH42 failures due to weather exposure? 

    Nope.

     

    1 hour ago, Dutch_12078 said:

    I know of several residential installations where the DPH42 was installed at the dish with no failures I'm aware of. 

    "At the dish" . . . so not on a roof constantly exposed to sunlight.

     

    1 hour ago, Dutch_12078 said:

    The switch is packaged about the same as the Duo Node at our upstate NY cottage that's been exposed 24/7 for the past 6 years with no failures.

     

    A DPH42 is powered, Duo Nodes are not. My DPH42 is inside a fan-vented, open-back cabinet, yet the switch is hot to the touch.

    I'm guessing that your unpowered Duo Node in not installed on your cottage roof where it would be constantly exposed to sunlight, right?

    Maybe the sunlight in upstate NY is gentle, but in the South West where I spend my time it's brutal.

    Finally, the DPH42 install manual warns:

    Do not install the apparatus near any heat sources such as radiators, heat registers, stoves, or other apparatus (including amplifiers) that produce heat.

    I'm including the sun as a heat source.

  2. 4 hours ago, Jim Gell said:

    If I understand the conversion chart linked above, and my Traveler is an SK SWM3 as I suspect because the DirectV power inserter says SWM 3 on it,  I may not need need to  check the IDU and ODU software versions. Right?  

    Sorry, not sure. Here's what I did.  Contact Winegard Tech Support before you start.

     

    4 hours ago, Jim Gell said:

    C) It sounds like it would not matter which room I put the Hopper 3 or the 4K Joey.  We primarily use our  living room TV, The Traveler controller needs to stay in bedroom. We can do occasional diagnostics in the bedroom. Is there any other advantages, such as being able see a display,  that would make it better to have the Hopper in the living room?

     

    I can't think of any.

     

    4 hours ago, Jim Gell said:

    D) It sounds like leasing may be a better choice.  I will get real current costs to compare and consider how often we will want to suspend service.  If they own it and it fails, I assume they would replace it without us being charged...Right? 

    Technically, no, since your Hopper 3 would be in an RV, and from what DISH told me a while back, "They don't support Hoppers in RVs". From DISH's standpoint, they won't stop you from using a Hopper in our RV, but that's it.

    That said, DISH did replace my 1st 2016 Hopper 3 as the hard disk went south. But at the time we (and our Hopper 3) were staying in our AZ park model. Buyer beware.

     

    4 hours ago, Jim Gell said:

    E) I have not talked to any Dish retailers to see if they do RV's because whenever I Googled them they never seem to be close to where I am.  Right now the closest is about 80 miles away.  Would they need to come to me for an “install”?  Will they run new cables across and through my roof to my bedroom entertainment cabinet?  Even if they would, I don't think I trust an installer to do that. I want to replace cables for our OTA antenna and WiFi Ranger at the same time I drill a new hole in my roof. 

    Right, you should run any needed cabling, not a home DISH installer.

    Would an installer drive 80 miles? Only one way to find out.

     

    4 hours ago, Jim Gell said:

    F) Now lets talk about cables to the Traveler.  As my Traveler is wired for DirecTV, I have ONE multi-conductor “control cable” going the Traveler Control Box and ONE , COAX  that is connected to the receiver through a “SWM 3” labeled power inserter. Tom's Hopper 3 Diagram referenced above with a red colored heading, shows THREE cables to the Traveler for DISH.  This raises questions.  Do I just need to run some additional cables? If so how many, and what specs?  Or is my Traveler different from the ones others have converted to Dish service and may not be convertible? 

    Even though the DPH42 can be installed outdoors, I would run all three because I want that DPH42 switch inside my RV and not constantly exposed to direct sunlight.

    However, installing the DPH42 on the roof sure makes things easier as you now only have to run 1 coax cable inside. If you do install it on the roof, I'd suggest erecting some sort of sun shield over it . . . just don't put the DPH42 in a box.

     

     

  3. 7 hours ago, Jim Gell said:

    1) Buy a Winegard RP-SK21 Reflector Bracket and LNB Assembly for SK-1000 TRAV'LER Dish 1000 and a Winegard RPSK11 Reflector  to convert my DirecTV Traveler to receive Dish. I plan to do this by myself. Other than falling off my roof, any technical reason this would be an issue? 

    I converted a DirecTV SWM Travler to the DISH version. Very doable. Mind the IDU/ODU software stuff.

     

    7 hours ago, Jim Gell said:

    2) Buy or lease a Hopper 3 DVR and 4K Joey.  I would prefer to lease, but want to be able to save $ by suspending service when we don't need it. Do we need to own it to suspend service?  How do the costs compare for leasing vs buying and for month to month vs annual contract? 

     

    Ask Dutch about this. I think he leases his Hopper 2.

     

    7 hours ago, Jim Gell said:

    3) Install the Hopper 3 in our bedroom near our Traveler controller and the cable(s) from the Traveler.  Our living room entertainment center is in a slide that would be difficult to re-route cables to. 

    4) Install the 4K Joey in the living room with wireless connection to the Hopper 3 in bedroom (about 30 feet away).  I assume we will be able to control the Hopper 3 in bedroom from the living room through the Joey. Does that sound right?

     

    Though I think folks generally install the Hopper up front in the living room, it doesn't matter. A Joey can record/delete/play back programs just like the Hopper. I think the Hopper has more diagnostic stuff, but that's it. A Joey and Hopper each have their own, separate remotes.

     

    7 hours ago, Jim Gell said:

    5) Call someone and sign up for service.  Is https://www.dishformyrv.com/  my best choice? Are there any discounts through affiliations such as Escapees, FMCA, AARP etc?

     

    If you plan on suspending your service, I believe you have to purchase your Hopper. I trust these guys for DISH equipment: Dish Depot.

    I wouldn't use any of those above (FMCA, etc) -- especially DishForMyRV because DISH's "party line" for RVs is "Wally Yes, Hopper No". However, as you know there are plenty of folks with Hoppers in their RVs (since 2012 for me).

    Anyway, at first DISH insisted on installing Hoppers. If that's still the case, contact a local sat installer. You may have to look a bit since many installer dislike RVs. Too hairy. Since you sound tech savvy, you can essentially "do" most of the install before an installer arrives -- all the wiring.

    However, since Hopper installation & activation has much improved since 2012, you may be able to install your Hopper 3 yourself. Here's the Hopper 3 Activation Process (may be a bit dated).

    Here's a Hopper 3-to-DISH Travler wiring diagram:

    dph42_winegard-travler_one_hopper3_one-o

     

    Finally, about those DISH satellite "arcs"  . . . 

    Western Arc (sats 110, 119, 129) -- what a DISH Travler uses. I've been able to just use my Travler for most of the time. However, there are times when I park under trees, too near Mount Rundle, etc that I need to drag out my portable tripod.

    Eastern Arc (sats 61.5, 72. 77.7) -- I almost never have to drag out my tripod for these.

    Long story short . . . a portable sat dish with a Western & Eastern arc LNBF is a good buy. 

     

     

     

  4. 5 hours ago, Billy W said:

    Ray IN thank you for taking the time to look into this and confirm my suggestions on the use of hydrogen peroxide. Its a very inexpensive product and has worked well for me in the past.

    It may remove odors, but off-the-shelf (3%) hydrogen peroxide is not suitable for sanitizing/disinfecting an RV water tank.

  5. Today I experienced my first obvious example of "camp spreading" . . . where the people at a campsite keep expanding the space they occupy. On the first day it was just a travel trailer, mom pop and kid with a couple of lawn chairs. Later in the day more adults and kids, a dog or two, more cars, more lawn chairs, and a canopy tent. Next, games like bean bag toss were set up. On day two, the lawn chairs and games moved outward. By the end of the day the bean bag toss game was about 100 feet away from the camp site and they were playing catch across sites. It was fun to watch.

    Anyone with similar stories?

  6. 9 hours ago, Sehc said:

    I am a retired licensed water treatment operator . . .  Peroxide is not used to sanitize or purify drinking water. It may have a place as a cleaning product. 3% is good for cleaning wounds. In water treatment I used 50%. 

    Did you once say in another thread that the concentrated hydrogen peroxide you used would occasionally cause fires?

  7. 3 hours ago, Billy W said:

    Just as a reminder, "bleach does not kill mildew, mold and some algae" it only bleaches it so it looks like its gone. 

    No, bleach actually does kill mildew, mold, and algae.

     

    3 hours ago, Billy W said:

    I would suggest using hydrogen peroxide. Its cheep and in eliminates the oxygen the bacteria need to grow. You can also use white vinegar but it is a mild acetic acid 2% and it smells too.

    Would that be a 3% (off-the-shelf), 6% (cosmetic - hair bleaching), 35% (food grade), or accelerated hydrogen peroxide (AHP)?

  8. 13 minutes ago, JIMBEA said:

    We have installed a Ultra Violet disinfecting system in our house (for well water) and it has passed all state inspections for safety. We had a bout of e-coli and now  we a clean.

    Would this be something to consider for an RV?-

     

    It sure would. I've had a UV filter in my RV since we started full timing. At the very least, it stopped an algae outbreak from getting into my RV's plumbing system.

     

  9. 43 minutes ago, richfaa said:

    Well i guess the TDS meter works for what it was intended to ,measure which is not water purity. We got to find a better meter

    I don't think you'll find one meter that deals with all the possibilities of water pollution. Besides dissolved solids, there are chemicals, bacteria, viruses, etc, etc.

    I just assume the worst and filter for as much as I can on a non-municipal budget.

     

  10. 2 hours ago, Barbaraok said:

    Not if you are in the Arizona desert.

    Roger that. I get readings between 700 - 800 in Lake Havasu City.

    A TDS (Total  Dissolved Solids) meter essentially measures hardness.

  11. 3 hours ago, Billy W said:

    they claim it has to do with tax evasion and federal requirements 

    Yes, it's the banking rules (which are very much in effect) to prevent money laundering -- see page 480, bottom right column for the CIP (Customer Identification Program).

    The CIP has provisions for dealing with your situation (ie, no residential address):

    "For an individual who does not have a residential or business street address, an Army Post Office (APO) or Fleet Post Office (FPO) box number, or the residential or business street address of next of kin or of another contact individual"

    So get in touch and get permission with someone who you want to use as a "contact". Then contact Schwab again with this info. If they still resist, ask to speak with their Compliance Officer or someone in Compliance.. This is the person(s) who should be familiar with these banking rules. If this still doesn't work, say goodbye to Schwab.

  12. 9 hours ago, scouserl41 said:

    We discovered that the hose that sat for 5 months caused the bas taste! No I try and use both hoses in rotation to avoid a repeat of the problem.

    If you suspect a "bad" water hose, check for algae. Fasten a cotton swab or small cloth to the end of a coat hanger and then scrape the inside of the hose. It it comes back green, ditch the hose.

    fixing00-algae0.jpg

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