bags

thanks Carl. jb

Carl, we had a generator installed 3 years ago and have been glad to have it. My recommendation is go with who ever can come service it and have a backup tech. I put in a Champion 14.4 k and it works fine for us. They also come with load shedding equipment. I just ran my usage #s and went from there. On a different topic would you be kind enough to share the info on your air line checking tool? Are any of the less expensive ones any good, etc. Thanks John Bagley

I finally got a recommendation on a shop to repair my dash cluster. Come to find out the eeprom (memory) was corrupt and they need to reprogram it. Their usual dash repair is 750.00 how ever this reprograming I am told is very time consuming and the charge was 1500.0. OUCH! But at least my dash cluster now works and all data was restored. They had to remove the onboard diagnostics LCD and replaced it with filler panel. It has not worked in the 11 years we have owned the truck. They will honor their time line but they are behind. They said 10 days and that is what it took. One warranty. D&D Instruments 612-378-1224 https://ddinstruments.com/

yes. The program has aged out. Nobody there knows anything about the program any more. I’ve had multiple conversations with them They’d like to be helpful, but nobody knows anything anymore. JB.

Ken, thanks for your help. Does anybody have any experience with this Bluefire adapter. I read the 100 page manual and it appears not to play very well with windows. Does anybody have any experience running windows on this blue tooth adapter. regards JB

The dash ecm display has never worked on my dash cluster. I purchased the above pc based system and it worked really well for 10 years. No it has crapped out and the software is no longer supported. I ran this program on my window 10 and 11 computer mounted to my dash. It gave me all the readings directly from my ecm. I really liked have codes and all ecm readings displayed as I was driving down the road. I purchased a ScanGuage product but it is not what I want. It has a small display with only 4 gauges showing and I have to scan through the thing to get all the gauges. Does anybody know of a program similar to VMSPC that I could use? Did I mention that my dash cluster crapped out as well? I had it rebuilt once, servos etc and it is being rebuilt again. Non of my gauges work currently and every light including the stop light come on. Thank for the help JB

I am very interested in your truck. Please contact me when your emergency is over. Regards JB

About 2 months ago I filled up with fuel, bobtailed 20 mile home and hooked up my rig and toad. 10 mile from home my rig started derating for 15 to 20 seconds and then would pick back up to speed. This happens with and without the cruise. on flat spaces, going up hills or down. I stoped and put in a gallon of power service diesel fuel and tank cleaner as per recommendation of my mechanic. I still had the same issues and assumed I needed to change my fuel filter. Ran for 300 miles and changed the filter and still had this problem. I then began to believe it was not a fuel issue. I made about a 700 mile trip with not any change, every 15 to 30 mile truck would monetarily derate then begin running just fine again. I called a mobile mechanic and he put his computer on the truck and could find no transmission code or any other codes. He had my mechanic on the phone while reading his computer and had some issues with it dropping off. My home mechanic had no such issues. The mobile guy said he saw some weird code that he thought we allison codes but not familiar with them. Came home and my mechanic cleaned the ecm connections and found no reason to suspect and issues. He then spent 5 hours cleaning all grounds, testing and reconnecting batteries. We then got in the truck and pulled the rig for a couple of hours with his computer no codes and had no derating issues. I then hooked up the trailer and toad for another trip and had the same derating issues. He suggested I take it to a transmission shop and they found no codes (truck only). My next step is to hook the entire rig, take the transmission mechanic for a ride with his computer attached and see what happens. Of course the transmission mechanic is 2 hours round trip and I would like to avoid this trip. I asked the transmission mechanic about pulling and cleaning all the transmission sensors and he said that would involve 6 or 7 hours labor and he hated to do that. Has anyone experienced this issue. The key is that I only have a problem when pulling the rig and toad. I even disconnected the toad light cable and still had the same issues. No codes are stored in the ecm. Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance JB

Thanks. Good idea. JB

The last time I heard that noise my leveler valve arm had come loose and my bed was dragging on the truck tires. Fortunately it happened as I was taking off from a stop light. Unfortunately there was no where to pull off the road and my supply of zips ties was exhausted. 45 minutes later and one coat hanger down I had it aired up enough to get me a few miles down the road. My first hint when I got out of the truck was the smell of burned rubber. Good luck. JB

Thank you ever so much. JB

Good afternoon I am finally going to add a hitch camera to my truck. I remember seeing one that was dead simple and removable. It was made out of 1/2 pipe and a magnet or two. Before I reinvent the wheel does anyone have a photo of one that they like? Thanks in advance. JB

Thanks JB

Pardon my ignorance but what is a cc option?

Everyone talks about air line leaks. How big a deal would it be just to replace all the lines from front to back and if so what kind of air lines and fittings. Mine leak like a sieve. Replace air level valve as well. thanks in advance for all replies. JB

you are getting 12.99V on shore power, why do you think the inverter charger is not working? I would put a good DC load on the system when on shore power with the solar system off line to see what you get then. You could also turn off the inverter charger and see what you get then. I never hear the charger running and the battery goes down with the sun. I do not get a full charge in the daytime only about 13.3 which is low for lithium. I got on the roof and checked the voltage at the junction box and it is on 15.5 or so but the math VX amps adds up to match the readout of 225 watts. The voltage at the charge controller is the same so I am assuming the 10 year old panels are not functioning properly. No snail tails on the panels or discoloration. I will check the diodes next. I checked the fuses and have power coming and going. I sure hope new panels are not in my future. Thanks for all help and if anyone has any more ideas or suggestions or knows a good solar guy in the Waco Tx area please let me know. Travel safe. JB

If I have a bad fuse why am I getting some voltage and current? I was getting as many as 250 watts from the panels. I am perplexed. I am going on the roof tomorrow to check the connections. Thanks JB

Author Posted just now I had the above system installed in June to complement my old freedom combi 424 freedom inverter and 4 120 watt solar panels. The system was installed our event got canceled so the rig went back in the barn hooked up to 30 amp power. Just now got the rig out and noticed the charger is not working (inverter is) and at noon in bright sunlight in Oklahoma only getting the below reading from my smart solar ppt charge controller. solar controler solar 187 watts volts 15 current 12 battery volts 13.12 current 14 state bulk my battery monitor is giving me these readings (on shore power) voltage 12.99 current 5.26power 68 watts I contacted Dragon Fly energy (battery manufacture)yesterday to make sure all the settings and battery hookup were right and after an extensive call they determined they were and a guess that the charger had failed. Batteries will not charge from my Inverter charger/generator or charge line from truck. I tighten all the connections, solar cables, battery connections etc. I cleaned the panels less than a week ago. I am at a complete loss. I checked all the inverter setting and they are correct, 400 ah and set to aim batteries. Any and all ideas are appreciated. Could a charger failure cause all this? Sincerely John Bagley

I had the above system installed in June to complement my old freedom combi 424 freedom inverter and 4 120 watt solar panels. The system was installed our event got canceled so the rig went back in the barn hooked up to 30 amp power. Just now got the rig out and noticed the charger is not working (inverter is) and at noon in bright sunlight in Oklahoma only getting the below reading from my smart solar ppt charge controller. solar controler solar 187 watts volts 15 current 12 battery volts 13.12 current 14 state bulk my battery monitor is giving me these readings (on shore power) voltage 12.99 current 5.26power 68 watts I contacted Dragon Fly energy (battery manufacture)yesterday to make sure all the settings and battery hookup were right and after an extensive call they determined they were and a guess that the charger had failed. Batteries will not charge from my Inverter charger/generator or charge line from truck. I tighten all the connections, solar cables, battery connections etc. I cleaned the panels less than a week ago. I am at a complete loss. Any and all ideas are appreciated. I did check the inverter/charge to make sure the settings were correct. Could a charger failure cause all this? Sincerely John Bagley

Thats great information. Thank you very much. My mechinic verified all grounds to dash cluster were good. checking those other grounds out sounds a real good lead as well. Thanks for all the help. JB

My mechanic has checked all cluster connections are good on this 15k milage cluster. he is supporting a ground issue as well. The ecm under the hood is working as it should, not throwing codes. We think there must be a second eco for the inside the truck for the cluster but can't find it. Anybody know anything about a second icm. There are 2 driver display fuses. I hate to take it to a dealer as my experience is the age of these mechanics is younger than the truck. Any and all thoughts appreciated. JB

Our first real electrical gremlin has invaded our truck. I started the truck and every warning light came on. Shut down, caution, red light on temp, fluid levels etc. Turned it off and they went away so I took a drive and noticed my temp light was on and my gauges worked sporadically. No speedo, fuel, temp etc but I did have air pressure gauges. I subsequently got the truck back home hooked up my VMSPC (silver leaf electronics) and all pressures and temps were good even though my dash lights and gauges said differently. Shut down light was still on but truck never shut down and it had plenty of time too. I used my power probe to check all the fuses and they are good. Now my speedo pegs at 80 instead of powering up on start and then dropping back down. My computer says the truck is fine but it will drop out and then reconnect. Always before when it dropped out I had to close the program and re open. I disconnected the ground lead to the battery over night hooping that would clear it up but no luck. Does anybody have any ideas. Any and all information greatly appreciated. Safe travels John Bagley

thanks for all the input! I really appreciate it.

thanks Randy. That makes sense now that I think about it. JB

I want to change out my lead acid batteries for lithium. My current setup is below. Xantrex Freedom MS 858 inverter charger (battle horn batteries says this will charge my batteries if I set it on gel 2) Xantrex c40 PWM solar controler 4 100 watt solar panels 4 golf 6 volt cart batteries Below is the system I am looking at installing. 3 battle horn 100ah batteries victron MPPT 100/50 solar controller victron BVM 702 or 712 battery monitor My questions is have I left any out or am I buying something I do not need? All input is sincerely appreciated. JB