Rotorhead

9 minutes ago, spindrift said:

This may be obvious, but don't forget about the For Sale section in this Forum.

Will do, thanks.

1 hour ago, spindrift said:

GLWS

Thanks. 

And one more.

A couple of initial photos

Hello All,

I think I am going to put my rig up for sale. I have a job change starting in December and I likely won't be able to take it with us. Unless I get a storage site. And who wants to do that? Anyway, it's a 2010 Volvo 780. I have put quite a bit of work into it. It has a new clutch, new brakes all around, new air dryer, overhead set, new tie-rod ends, drag link, alignment, about a half dozen engine sensors, new cushions for the workstation, cab turn signals and more. It drives really well considering it has 904,000 miles. I just got to the point where I was going to start converting it over to pull a RV fth wheel. 

It has a Cummins ISX 15. I have the Insite software and have done all available tests with it. Everything passes. I can print out the results, and probably will, for any potential buyers. 

Bonus, tanks are always full. And that ain't cheap to fill 250 gallons.

If anyone knows of someone looking, I will be taking some photos soon as I can and posting them here. I am likely going to list it on truck trader as well. It may be a couple weeks though due to a busy schedule ahead. 

Happy trails.

Chuck

There are several different manufacturers of 12v A/C systems that can be installed. They are about 900$. I don't know if that would be a route worth considering? 

9 hours ago, Chad Heiser said:

It would be possible to use at home and on the road, but you would have to punt and dismount the antenna and router in both locations.  It would be more expensive, but a lot easier to get two antennas and two routers and then just move the modem between the two installations (at least I believe that would be possible).  The modem is a small module that slides in and out of the antenna and holds the sim(s).  I don’t think they are bound to the router, but it would be a question I would ask of Insty connect support before spending money.  I know you can use multiple antennas with no problem (because I have done that).  So a bit cheaper option would be to Mount an antenna and USB-c data cable in both locations and then just move the router and modem insert between the two locations.  This would be pretty easy to do.

Awesome, thanks. I am definitely going to check into it some more.

On 7/19/2023 at 3:15 AM, Chad Heiser said:

I have Insty connect and have been using it for a couple years.  It is hardware only, you need to provide your own sim (or multiple sims).  It is a different set up than most cellular based hardware systems.  Insty connect puts the modem/sim(s) in the antenna rather than in the router.  It also uses a proprietary design quad antenna.  It works very well in my experience.  They offer a standard omnidirectional “Angel Wing” antenna or a larger directional “binocular” antenna (also a quad antenna set up).  I have the angel wing antenna mounted on the roof of my RV.  It usually does the trick.  I have the dual sim modem mounted in the antenna.  I currently only have an AT&T (Mobley) sim installed.  I have used the directional antenna once when I couldn’t get any signal from the angel wing.  The modem simply pops out of the omni/angel wing antenna and pops into the directional antenna.  I pointed the directional antenna generally in the direction of the nearest populated area and went from no signal to a good enough signal to be able to make WiFi calls and send/receive text messages.  I could also check basic emails, but browsing the internet was still very slow and clunky.  Still way better than no signal at all though.  There is a simple USB-C cable that runs from the modem down to the router inside.  This way there is no signal loss going through an antenna cable to a modem in an internal router like most equipment has.  If you have two sims installed, you can choose either one as primary or have it auto select the strongest signal.  If you have something like Starlink, you can run the Starlink signal through the Insty Connect router and let all your devices maintain there connection to you Insty connect network without having to reconnect them to the Starlink network for service.  You can also select Starlink as the primary internet source or allow the system to auto select the best source.  There is more, but you get the idea.  I am very happy with it overall and have met the owner of the company and talked with him several times in Quartzsite over the last couple of years.  He is very nice and knowledgeable.

Awesome, thanks for the information Chad.

is this something we could use at the house when we are not traveling and then pack it up and take it with us while on the road? 
our current wifi service is pretty much useless while the leaves are on the trees. And then it’s still questionable when the leaves have fallen.

Took my rig in for a DOT/State inspection at the dealer. It was on the way home. They failed me for the right turn signal on the sleeper for having water in it. The ones I ordered hadn't come in yet. And they failed the 5th wheel for the right bushing being out of tolerance. Even though they passed it last year. Oh well. Turn signals took 5 minutes a side to replace. Not so sure I am going to fix something I don't intend to use. I just need to remove it. 

Is there anything that needs to be done after removing the 5th wheel? Like putting a plate on it for frame support?

On 7/23/2023 at 4:08 PM, mike5511 said:

 

That's awesome. I could have used that a week or two ago when a fellow from D.C. tried running into my driver side steer. 

4 minutes ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 If the mods wish to delete this reply, I understand. However since we are on the topic of type of campground, the space and reservation topic is brought up, I wish to give a shout out to "Secret camp and RV park" just off 101 in southern Oregon at the Rogue river. In may I was caught out short in the evening and all of the parks I called went to voicemail except Secret. I told him the situation, and he said come on back, I have a spot for you. Met me at the driveway, pointed to the spot with power and water. I paid cash, and had a great time. Quiet. Unloaded the XR, went to town for a few groceries, and slept well. Next morning rode to the beach for a few minutes, loaded up and went to the office to say thank you. Told the manager thank you so much for the last minute stay. He is a humorous old sailor that left me with a quick bit of wisdom.

 He said" and remember, it's always better to have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy". Said with a sailor slur, you can find the humor.

 

That looks like a nice site.

7 minutes ago, sheldons65 said:

I’ll research a bit but if it’s not one of the 3 major carriers then it’s some 3rd party reseller. They work until they don’t, leaving you without a connection.

He did say something about going through Verizon, AT&T etc…. 

I recently heard about Insty Connect WiFi, portable. The owner swears it works anywhere. I was wondering if anyone here has tried it? 

So, a good number of the campgrounds we’ve been to are packed in close together. They are ok but not completely relaxing. I would prefer a place that is a lot more spread out.

How about you all?

1. Typical sites close together?

Or

2. A more private place with sites spread out where you can relax?

On 7/5/2023 at 7:17 PM, Rotorhead said:

Post cleaning filters. And reassembled unit.

air flow seems to be good through the DPF now. When I started washing it the water wasn’t even going right through it. Once it get it back on the truck I’ll see if the code is gone and the regen works again.

Got it out on the road. It’s running great. I had to reset the code in the advance section of the Cummins Insite. I did a parked regen and it was done in 33 minutes. 
the only thing that I messed up was putting the differential pressure tubes on backwards. It gave me a 1993 code. Once I put the lines in the right place it cleared itself. 
Happy camping!

3 hours ago, 2gypsies said:

I was just looking down the list of the various forums here and many don't have any recent posts. This doesn't seem like a RVing forum anymore.   I would hope that this doesn't gradually fade away.  🤥

I hope it doesn’t fade away either. It’s been very helpful. 

19 hours ago, Rotorhead said:

I added a pic of the DPF. What do you think? When you hold a flashlight to the outlet side you can’t see any light. But on the DOC you can see light. Of course the DOC is not as thick as the DPF. Anyway tomorrow they are getting cleaned.

Post cleaning filters. And reassembled unit.

air flow seems to be good through the DPF now. When I started washing it the water wasn’t even going right through it. Once it get it back on the truck I’ll see if the code is gone and the regen works again.

3 hours ago, Rotorhead said:

Well I removed my DOC/DPF assembly today. I also disassembled it. I had a code that the DOC was clogged. But I did not have a check engine light.

I only snapped the bolt on one exhaust clamp and two bolts on the support bar that goes between the fairing pin bushings at the top. So I’ll need to make a trip to the hardware store to get a couple bolts and nuts.

Rust is not my friend. 
 

hopefully the cleaning and reassembly will go well. I think it’s going to be challenging to get everything lined up.

I added a pic of the DPF. What do you think? When you hold a flashlight to the outlet side you can’t see any light. But on the DOC you can see light. Of course the DOC is not as thick as the DPF. Anyway tomorrow they are getting cleaned.

On 6/3/2023 at 7:03 PM, bobsallyh said:

Rotorhead, I wouldn't get too excited about the solenoid yet. My next move would be to put the battery charger directly to genny and try to start it. If your charger has a "start" function, use it. I wish that I could be more specific, but I have trouble using a keyboard to troubleshoot. Hands on, a piece of cake.

Thanks. Sorry I just saw this. Today was the first day in a month I had to look at it. It was a bad ground. More like totally shot. Corrosion.

Ok so I found my problem. The bolt for the ground was rusted really bad and the bolt head was hanging. Plus the copper bonding strap was corroded so bad it fell apart.

once I got it all disassembled and found a couple new bolts to use I reassembled it. I had to make a new ground wire. I just used a piece of some 14ga wire from when I finished the basement. 
When I was done it started right up.

So, check those grounds. They may be corroding. 
Chuck

Well I removed my DOC/DPF assembly today. I also disassembled it. I had a code that the DOC was clogged. But I did not have a check engine light.

I only snapped the bolt on one exhaust clamp and two bolts on the support bar that goes between the fairing pin bushings at the top. So I’ll need to make a trip to the hardware store to get a couple bolts and nuts.

Rust is not my friend. 
 

hopefully the cleaning and reassembly will go well. I think it’s going to be challenging to get everything lined up.

I would take it back and have them fix what you are not happy with. My mother in law's roof on her class C has membrane. Somewhere along the line, probably before she bought it, it developed a leak. Plus the caulk along the front seam was old and had significant separation in the caulk. Maybe that was the source of her water damage. Anyway, on her way home the membrane separated and came loose in a heavy rain that lasted on and off for two days. The insurance company is saying they won't pay for it. 

Save the headache. Make sure it's right.

Chuck

I believe the KOA in Rodanthe NC in the Outer Banks is right about that price. In season on a holiday the thought it was up near 200 a night. Could be a different KOA I’m thinking of. Somewhere along the east coast anyway. 

I will keep’em crossed. I hope they do a great job and you enjoy the rest of your trip.

15 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

You got a leak in the system, somewhere. I don't know what the front tank runs, but it's in that circuit.

Ok thanks. There could be more than one I suppose. I've changed a couple o-rings so far an they have been dry rotted and no good. There are also what seems to be some repairs in a few lines with a splice type fitting. One that you just plug the hose into each end. I'll start at the compressor and work back. I am going to try that fitting that was mentioned on another post  and use my garage compressor to charge the system.

But alas, I need to finish a major honey do project. We are overhauling an area in the yard where we have a water feature. So glad I have a back brace, hahaha.