Sculptor

15 hours ago, Phil D said:

Many folks, for that reason, choose to use an Escapees address and go to Livingston County to do their registration, since they've done many of them and are familiar with the process.

I have read this a few times also.  I have not done it but might in the future.  This probably doesn’t affect you, Chriseng, but for anyone else; I read the process of getting a required basic driver license endorsement in Texas is easier in Livingston County also.

if I remember the former LEO’s screen name I will post it.

Dang. My son works near there somewhere. If you need a car ride I can ask him to help?

1 hour ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Got it.  Sorry you’re having issues.

Thanks for trying, Carl.  I thought it should work too. Maybe I did something wrong but I don’t know what, it seems pretty straightforward. 

2 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Kevin,

I can reset all mine off of the steering wheel stalk under diagnostics IF they are inactive.  Are you not able to do that?  Should be described in your owners manual.

Tried that last time I replaced the sensor with no luck. 

One day in the future I might buy a machine to reset the error codes on my 2013 Volvo.  Im soliciting advice on which unit or which features to look for. TIA. 

So back in April I bought a sensor off Amazon put it in.  Then I had to pay to have the code taken off. So now the new sensor has gone bad apparently. Should I just break down and buy one from the dealer if I can find one?

Also what are you guys using to reset your codes?

I was rereading this post this morning.  In reference to your truck frame troubles, where the frame often doesn’t “stay put” from the factory.  IE the warps and pregnancy bulge you mentioned.  Would a large scale white light scan of the truck frame and suspension be of use to identify the frame ramblings beforehand?

I’ve conveniently set aside any guesses on cost or availability of a scanner.

We stopped at a park in MT last summer and there I met a techie who specializes in CAD work for the local refinery.  He scanned the back end of my truck just as a favor.  I have no software that deals with that flavor of 3D file, but he gave me some polygons that are close enough, in case I ever get the urge to design a bed.  (Full disclosure; I can push buttons but “design a bed” gives me way more status than I deserve. 🤓)

I have noticed lately that I get the “low beam open circuit” once in awhile.  It’s been more often since getting on the road and in the rain.  Yesterday I contacted deep space and talked to David. ( I forgot his screen name can someone remind me)

He suggested 3 things.  Switch the bulb from right socket to left to test it.

 Check 5 fuses in the “dash”.  I found all 5 and pulled them.  They looked a bit gunky, like a coating of something.  I cleaned all the blades on all and replaced the fuses.

Check the actual wire harness for pinches or abrasion.  Especially the left hinge area harness.  It’s very common to get pinched there.  I found no cuts or anything unusual except the zip ties that hold the wire across the bottom of the grill had broken.

Also the front right turn signal had stopped working.  I checked the bulb itself and both elements gave an ohm reading.  But the socket looks burnt.

So the fuse cleaning seems to have solved the headlamp problem.  The turn signal still was not working.  Running light was fine but no flash.  I didn’t know what to try next, so I decided to fasten the harness wire back up where it belongs.  2 zip ties later the harness is not hanging down, and funny thing, the right turn signal works now.  Haha!

2 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

Are you using SolidWorks, if yes what edition. Mine's 2019

Not using Solidworks.  I was very familiar with translation from my b-spline software into NX (UG) but that was a few years ago.  I would need to experiment a bit to get a STEP or IGES translation into Solidworks.

On 5/14/2023 at 6:48 AM, Sculptor said:

By removing the side fairing and cab fairing, access was much better.  The top tank strap Allen bolts have blue lock tite on them, and a torch was the only way to loosen it on the front.  Must have gotten lucky on the rear?  Anyway, both straps are replaced on the right tank and fairings are back in place.

A few days ago the DW and I got the tank straps replaced on the left tank. While we were at it we got a rusty support bar painted and re-wired the drom box connection.  It now has a plug usually used for a trailer.  In case we need to get the big drom box off, in the future.

You guys know more. But….  Here goes,  I heard the vent tubes on my gen 2 get clogged and cause fuel problems.  Each tank vent tube has a kind of a breather or filter on the end.   When the breather gets clogged or malfunctions the engine can’t get fuel. The solution is to clip the end off.  Leave the raw end hanging. 
This might be bad info or not apply to your truck, Carl. Just something I ran across on FB.  

On 5/26/2023 at 4:54 PM, mike5511 said:

This is all way out of my wheel house, but I'd love to be the "tool fetcher" on this job and watch it all come together. The education would be priceless!

 

 

 

 

X2! Would sure like to get my eyes on this project over time. Henry I haven’t touched my cad software in a year, BUT, if you have something small consider me for help.

Thumbs up Cory!

6 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Carl, find your hand primer and pump it.  If it pumps easily, it's sucking air.  Filling the Davco will supply fuel to the hand pump, but that won't fix the issue.

I went through similar fun after replacing fuel filters and separator.  Jack told me 120 pumps minimum. I did that and worked like a charm. Until then it was very easy to pump but only got hard up around 120 or so. 

These things are frustrating.  Good thoughts your way.  (Sorry no help tho 🙂)

She looks Awesome Larry!!

On 5/12/2023 at 6:59 AM, Sculptor said:

Drove all day yesterday from Stonewall to Ft. Worth to buy the left hand fuel tank straps. None were closer.  I’m still scratching my head how to get the front tank straps replaced.  Access is very tight.

By removing the side fairing and cab fairing, access was much better.  The top tank strap Allen bolts have blue lock tite on them, and a torch was the only way to loosen it on the front.  Must have gotten lucky on the rear?  Anyway, both straps are replaced on the right tank and fairings are back in place.

You guys crack me up.  I needed that. 🙂

57 minutes ago, Sculptor said:

Yes I’m replacing it.  I’m trying to break the tightening bolt loose.  Until you said that, it didn’t occur to me if I cut the strap, I can maybe pivot the top tightening screw to get a straight-in extension and bar on it.  Might try that.  I have a shorter breaker bar and a pipe. 

The local guy got it loose. Took a small torch and about 10 minutes of effort.  He’s a bit richer now. Remove and Replacement tomorrow morning when it’s cooler.  Thanks Rick for your suggestions!!

58 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

If you're replacing it, just cut the old one off.

Yes I’m replacing it.  I’m trying to break the tightening bolt loose.  Until you said that, it didn’t occur to me if I cut the strap, I can maybe pivot the top tightening screw to get a straight-in extension and bar on it.  Might try that.  I have a shorter breaker bar and a pipe. 

I’m trying to loosen the front strap. You can see the progress this morning.   The older U-joint was a Craftsman my dad owned. The breaker bar was from Northern Tool. Both 1/2” drive. 
The Milwaukee impact driver has not broken it loose, but will continue trying with Blaster.  Might drive out to a Harbor Freight today. 

Drove all day yesterday from Stonewall to Ft. Worth to buy the left hand fuel tank straps. None were closer.  I’m still scratching my head how to get the front tank straps replaced.  Access is very tight.

Thanks Rick.  Next challenge I’m grappling with; I’m faced with the choice of removing the drom box, or the cab fairings, to access the front straps.  An overhead hoist or good sized forklift would be necessary for the drom removal.  I’m considering the fairings but still a challenge to access the bolts.  
Campgrounds are unnecessarily fussy about noisy drawn-out repairs on premises, don’t you think?

So yesterday in 100 degree heat, we got the step fairings off.  They were pretty easy.  Detached the rear fairing bracket right side.  Crawled underneath and got good heavy ratchet straps on the center of both tanks.  Driver side straps are suspicious too but I can’t find them nearby.  2 heavy straps per side tank.

The drom box is basically a sleeper with a trailer door, so it covers the rear tank straps completely.  I loosened all 8 nuts holding the box to the frame just in case.  I had hope that a next door guy with a fork lift would come over and lift it up so I could block it, but that didn’t work out.  

I decided to remove the broken rear strap anyway.  I had doubts I could break it loose but after a bit of persuasion it broke loose.  It’s a 12mm Allen screw.  Got the pin out of the bottom, pin out of the top, and hosed the rubber insulator with Armorall.  There was a lot of salt in the grooves and I hoped it would loosen that up by morning.

This morning I started early, and got the rubber cleaned off as much as I could, used spots of contact cement to locate it on the new steel strap.  I wrapped another ratchet strap around it and got it to the basic size.  Put the lower pin in and tightened the ratchet.  We had to push and pull the tank strap a minimal amount while tightening.  Put the upper pin and bolt together and miraculously got the bolt threads started.   My wife began tightening with the impact wrench in fits and starts while I watched the strap loop get stretched tight.  Done deal.

This question is much easier than the fault code question.  Has anybody done this job?  It looks easy.  Any tricks or things to be aware of?  

The mounting bracket is a half circle of iron.  The strap is a flexible steel band with I think looped ends, that are the other half circle.  I have to un-bury the straps from the drom box and the fairing, but I don’t have a bed to get around.

2013 Volvo with 2 75-gallon tanks with 2 straps each.  I didn’t realize how rusted the straps were.  The right rear strap broke, and we got the tank ratchet strapped to the bracket on the frame.  We got to our destination ok.

I think it should be easy to replace.  I have a new replacement strap, actually both front and rear for the right hand tank.  Working on getting both for the left rear.  They seem symmetrical but are different part numbers for some reason.

Thanks in advance.