Sculptor

Dave I'm very happy for you to get to this point.  I don't remember the number of years you have lived with the pain, but you gotta be counting the days until August!!!  This will give you your life back.  All the best.

On June 14, 2019 at 10:57 PM, Nigel said:

 

The top centre of the dash where the cup holder is lifts off and the fuse box and relays are under there.  There may be two torx screws holding the cover on and they are accessed through the drink holder. Most mechanics don’t seem to put the screws back in once they have been in there so yours may be missing.

 

On page 23 the generic fuse panel is shown with a disclaimer saying words to the effect, each truck is different so refer to the sticker under the lid.

I hope I am understanding the above posts, so I hope this helps.  Schematics up to about page 85 then illustrations.  I will keep looking for the fuse legend.  

2 hours ago, Brad & Jacolyn said:

Not sure if you found the leak or not but on my 630 there is a drain valve on the side of the block tucked up kinda behind the turbo (at least on my 12 liter Volvo engine). I had an unexplainable leak and it turned out to be that valve AND it only leaked at about 1400 RPM. It has a threaded outlet and the tech reached WAAAY up from the bottom and screwed a pipe plug into the valve and it has not leaked since. Just another place to loook.

Brad

Thanks Brad. I took Darryl’s advice and put cardboard under the engine area. It stayed clean. But there is a large suspiciously dead looking patch of grass under the right tank but inside more under the frame.  When I saw the frame was wet and identified coolant not fuel, I thought it was under the sleeper heater repair from 2 years ago.  All this time I thought those tubes were some sort of fuel crossover. 

1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Decision time. Do you ever plan to be in ND weather conditions? I'm not talking a little snow going through a mountain pass, but bone-chilling deep cold. The factory lines lasted from '13 to now. Do you want to be underneath again in a comparable time frame re-replacing the lines? Follow them forward, and delete the lines at the junction block looking thing. Leave the lines in place, for the next guy to figure out, or remove them and add blanking covers where the heat probes go into the tanks.

Great idea Darryl, had not thought of just cutting them out altogether.  We travel north occasionally but try to limit our winter visits to Amazon delivery only, most years.  🙂

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

Kevin,

I'm guessing the line you colored green is the culprit?  If so, the line may only be bad in the area where it's along the brace/support angle.  In that case, you might consider cutting out the rusted section and replace it with high quality hose and good clamps.  Don't go to Auto-Zone.

Yes there is 1 pressure and 1 return so 2 of number 27.  Exactly what I did except the guy sold me 4 reducers not 4 1-to-1.  Grrr now I have to waste time taking them back to get the right ones.  NAPA btw. 

Hi folks, It took this long to get my latest info out to you.  What I found out from the parts guy, after an in depth talk:  This truck has a heater system they never see in North Carolina.  This truck is from ND.  Heads up Larry!  (AV8R)

The coolant must circulate into the tanks via a heat exchanger gadget.  I'm not sure if its factory original or not.  There are two crossover lines that run on a piece of angle/channel between the tanks.  The steel frame and tubes are prone to corrosion.

Part number 8085004.  There might be an assembly number but he didn't say.

I have not searched online yet the weather is too nice and I have an ET hitch to install today.  To be continued.

BEFORE (metal tubes $$$ from dealer)

AFTER  (rubber heater hose covered with cheap cord organizer tube)

Well I was wrong. I thought it was fixed after hours of leak free driving on a hot day.  It’s not. 

HELP PLEASE 🙂

What I thought were fuel lines across the steel frame directly between tanks, appear to be leaking coolant.  

Can someone please clue me about this system?  Does this keep the fuel at a constant temperature?

If there is a kit or part numbers please post!  I don’t know what to search for.  Plus we are wrenching on a new leveling valve this morning so I will have to get searching later. 

Thanks in advance.

About my goofy sump pump solution above, are you guys just being polite?  🤣 No comments yet? 

Hi Brian, I took a quick couple of searches but didn't take the time to check all the results.  I think the phrase "bed build" will narrow it down a lot for you.

8 hours ago, HERO Maker said:

It did have a crack in the res. tank.  That was replaced in CA.  Hoping it's just the leak at the filter now.

Hi Heromaker,  when searching, I assumed the tank would be expensive, I found out there seems to be a large range of prices, and MINE is expensive.  I hope yours wasn't too bad.  (My problem turned out to be the over pressure cap, not the tank). When I removed the filter the gasket had a fair amount of grime but no leaks, so maybe that's all with yours?  Good luck!

In my case we only used our old one every couple of years so remembering exactly what the lights mean was hard for me.   I did manage to find the manual page for Dometic.

http://manuals.dometic.com/

hope it helps.

On 5/21/2019 at 10:00 AM, Brad & Jacolyn said:

The switches on the door are all combined into one and there is only one plug that has about 20 connections in it.

I had window problems as described by Rick. Window rolls down in 2” increments. Nothing I did seemed to help. I disassembled the switch hoping I could clean out some ☕️ or 💩. No luck 

The bunch of wires are mostly white with orange stripes. There are lots of them.  I tried testing to see which were hot and succeeded in blowing the fuse. Wishing you better luck!

i bought a cheap eBay replacement and it looked new but performed like the old one. I got a second replacement free of charge but have not tested it yet. 

Just sayin it seems like the boards all have the same switches and prone to the same trouble. Brad, I hope your wiring gets sorted out more easily. 

1 hour ago, GlennWest said:

Anyone have link to FB post on this. I can't find it

I see it on the HDT group Facebook page, but not on Leon's page.  There was beginning to be some armchair quarterback style discussion of the photos he posted so he stopped comments on it for awhile.

So I bought the "I can't believe it's $60" radiator drain hose that SuiteSuccess originally posted about.  

I drained the system and was able to fill 2 buckets @ 4 gallons each.  I spent some time looking for the coolant capacity of my truck.  I am not sure but I believe it's 15 gallons.

Rather than perching on a ladder and pulling the buckets up with a rope, to reuse the coolant, I bought a cheap submersible pump on sale for $40.  I wrapped a vacuum cleaner filter around it, and connected the radiator drain hose to the outflow.  Of course I left the tank cap off.

Backing up a bit, I saw some posts about the very cool and expensive vacuum tester and filling tool online for $130ish.  There were others like it that were cheaper also.  I was not thrilled with the cost and plan to never need it again.  (Yeah right)  the pump options were expensive also, except maybe the drill powered pump.  The submersible seemed relatively cheap.

The 8 gallons went into the system very quickly, and filled from the bottom up, to minimize the chance of trapping air.  I then poured the missing 4 gallons in from the top.

I don't know for sure how much or how little air was trapped in the system when filling from the bottom.  I let the truck idle a good long while to open the thermostat, fill the coolant filter, and circulate any air to the top.  There seemed no difference in the level afterward.

I hope this is helpful to anyone else, and to me also from more knowledgable folks who might know why this was a poorly done procedure.   Respectfully,

We are staying in southern Michigan this week.  After a wedding on Sunday we drive home.

SuiteSuccess started a related topic. I sometimes think it's a good idea to piggyback topics for the sake of the next person searching.  Link to the topic included below. 

shorter version; So I got the STOP LOW COOLANT message on the instrument cluster.  I usually park on gravel so I never noticed a puddle or anything. Went from a spot on the road while parked, days later became critically low.  My fault for not popping the hood after cooling off to look.

i assumed a hose had cracked because it seemed to lose water very suddenly.  I looked over the gravel, the hoses, the expansion tank and connections.  I crawled underneath, felt around where I could not see, even looked at our rear sleeper heater repair.  For anyone who wants to know more about the chronic sleeper heater leak for Volvo sleepers, we have many photos and cad screen shots of our disassembly and reassembly fun.  No write up yet but someday.

The level sensor in the reservoir tank looked borderline, and there was residue on the fan shroud resembling a leak.  No greasy moisture on the sensor electrical plug.  It appears the sensor was leaking in the past so I tightened the clamp and moved on.

At the Volvo dealer I bought a few parts, thermostat, short hose, $60 each.  Coolant filter $15 or so,  EXPANSION TANK PRESSURE CAP $35 or so, a couple or other things I forget exactly what.  6 gallons of COOLANT just less than $7 per gallon.  The caps are because you might want the info that follows.

Everywhere I looked including online, Diesel engine coolant was $12 on up.  Like batteries, the dealer had the best price.  You just never know.

The service desk was next.  I described the leak events etc, and immediately the mechanic who happened to overhear said, "Replace the over pressure cap on the pressure tank." AKA reservoir.  He added that when running on the highway, the system may regenerate.  The cap relieves pressure at 15 pounds but if it goes bad, will shoot the coolant out the overflow drain hose.  So you will never see it!

i gave it some time to be sure, and the tank level is right where I left it a month ago.

i came up with what I think is a unique way to refill the cooling system, and I'm not inviting the flame throwers to comment, but I will take constructive advice.  😃      I will have to tell that story later on edit.

http://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/134846-volvo-radiator-drain-hose/?do=findComment&comment=981047

14 minutes ago, Big5er said:

Glad to help. I have locking caps on my truck. The thieves we see around here are using small 12v pumps and the filler neck. They are skipping the trucks with the anti siphon necks and locking caps. These caps wont keep out the determined thieves but it will deter the guys looking for an easy score.  Nothing is theft "proof" but these are theft "resistant", I guess, and like you said they are a little "piece of mind".

Ok you guys got me thinking now.  I had that $$$ earmarked for more Dr. Pepper and now I have to save up again.   😉  I checked Amazon and they are about the same price, FYI.

I also read (here, I think) at least one person uses a large pair of channel lock pliers to tighten the cap.  I think this would be enough in most cases, but maybe not if the truck was stolen or left unattended at a truck stop.  Just thinking "out loud" don't take my word for it. 😁

 We were looking for an interior layout that made sense to us.  Think of spending a cold rainy weekend inside.  We did very well with that, and got very lucky on the content and quality.  It was an R-Vision product.  Aluminum frame, and reasonable quality throughout.

Link to related post added: http://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/135696-volvo-d13-coolant-leak/
Click For Full-Size Image.

1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

When someone tells you to keep an eye on a leak, they usually mean it. Leaks don't get better with time. Find a big piece of cardboard, take a long enough ride to get to temps, put the cardboard underneath. Let it sit overnight, and check the spots in the morning. All this assumes the leak is external to the engine, but will also prove/disprove external leaks. 

Thanks Darryl, I admit I didn't keep an eye on it.  I have never had a leak (in a car of course) sneak up so fast.   I just came in from looking and draining etc.  NOT SURE but it looks like the level sensor is the leak point.   I am on the internet again trying to decide if caulking the sensor in place is worth it, or should I buy a new reservoir?  

No water in the oil.

Drained about 8 gallons out just to find out how much was still in there.  I can't seem to find the capacity but that might be because the sleeper heater is my configuration but there are other configurations out there obviously.  The Resource Guide pegs the D12 engine at 11 gallons.  

From a document named Body Builder instructions, which I couldn't find the link to right away.   Cooling System Capacities .....  Approximately 53 US quarts (50 liters) with a manual transmission For an automatic transmission, add 10 quarts (9.5 liters)  We have an IShift auto so 15.75 gallons.  It doesn't refer to accessories.

On 2/5/2019 at 11:23 AM, SuiteSuccess said:

Bit the bullet and ordered the hose from OTRperformance.  If anyone wishes to use it while at the ECR please let me know and I will bring it.  Likely to be a one maybe two time use for me but still cheaper than $90/hr  labor charge just to drain and replace coolant.

I am suddenly losing coolant also.   I like my information in one place if possible so risking a slight detour to MY D13 cooling system.  I hope it's ok with you Carl.

I also ordered the OTR drain hose but haven't used it yet.

Last month a friend told me I lost a spot of coolant on the road in front of his house so keep an eye on it.  We drove from his place to ours about 300 miles.  A few days later I drove it to work and got the STOP low coolant warning.  I dumped 2 gallons of coolant in and drove home.  a week or 2 later I started up and idled in the driveway but after 5 minutes I saw the warning again and shut down immediately.

Reservoir is empty but looking at the engine hoses I'm still not able to see where the leak might be.  The driveway is gravel.  There was a bit if moisture under the low passenger side hose but barely noticeable.

1. After a closer look, I'm not convinced its any of the main hoses.
2. I found a mouse nest on the passenger side of the engine block (behind the turbo) near where I saw moisture.  CHEWING HOSES?
3. Today I will check the oil for water, forgot yesterday.
4. Will attempt to drain the coolant
5. Checked inside the cab under the bunk.  DRY
6. Fill with tap water, warm it up and see what happens.  NEAR FREEZING AT NIGHT EXPECTED for two nights

Mostly about coolant leak locations,  Last 3 minutes is regen complaints.

Solution here is buy a dye kit with a black light and check hot, check cold, check after running.

https://solutions.letstruck.com/Answers/View/4593/2011+Volvo+D13+Coolant+loss

Im still looking for the thermostat and volume info for the D13.  I can buy housings all day long but hoping for more specific youtube demonstration or diagrams?  Any info is appreciated.  Again apologies to Carl for hijacking.

http://www.hhrvresource.com/VolvoDocsGenII/Volvo Engine Manuals/D13/Cooling System Troubleshooting.pdf

http://www.hhrvresource.com/VolvoDocsGenII/Volvo Engine Manuals/D13/Thermostat Replacement.pdf

One vote to continue posting.  I hope it all works Dave.  I don't wish that pain on anyone.

1 hour ago, runaway parents said:

Like maybe a torn rotor cuff?

I couldn't say yes with any authority.  Steroids affect connective tissue, so I was told.  Wish I could be more definite.

11 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

You don't realize how dilapidated you become physically all over trying to hobble and get around on lousy knees, hips, ankles etc., until you regain that mobility and get past the PT, about six months to a year. I've gained lot of respect for the PT people. Not only they helped me to get through the post operation period which is the toughest, but then they pointed out to all the "dilapidated" muscles and muscle groups that became part of the hobble existence and also contribute to the overall misery (besides the knees, hips, etc.). Once the knees and legs became fully "operational" I've instituted my own PT, as suggested by the PT pros and who showed me where the "issues were".

7 minutes ago, runaway parents said:

Is this old school thinking? Yes when I started taking cortisone shots they where about 10 months apart now they are 6 months apart the a definitely loosing there effectiveness.

It's more important to think about your mobility AND PAIN between now and the next replacement.  Yes that's old school thinking.  Besides that, I was taking oral steroids for something unrelated, and right after that, my already weakened Achilles tendon snapped.  the docs asked if I was on steroids, i answered affirmative, and they said it MIGHT be related.    Cortisone might cause other complications is the point here.