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rbertalotto

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Posts posted by rbertalotto

  1. John T....I couldn't agree with you more! Those two 30a breakers, tied together , was deliberate. Some worker didn't accidently grab a 60a breaker by accident. They went to the trouble to tie them together, then used a 60a breaker to protect 12g wire!!!!!...

     That 24" of 4G being totally unprotected until it reaches the CB is so very dangerous......CB and FUSES belong directly at the beginning of the lead....In this case it should be right at the battery. I'm going to install a properly rated FUSE right at the battery. 

     YES, CBs and fuses protect wires, not connected devices.

     Thanks for the post....

  2. Here's one for you...While doing some solar work on my friends brand new $50,000 Winnebago trailer I found these three Auto Reset circuit breakers mounted on the side of the frame rail. Can't believe how bad this is. 24" of #4 wire with no protection at the battery. Two 30a CBs tied together with a piece of copper strap that feed through another 30a CB. One wire (Green) that is connected to CB2 input, but because CB2 gets its feed through CB1, it is protected by CB1...(I labeled "no protection", but it is protected by CB1).....I have no idea what any of the three wires connected to CB2 or CB3 are feeding. Spent hours trying to figure it out. There is no current flowing through them with a clamp amp meter no matter what we turn on in the camper. All these wires are only 12g.......Comments?

     

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  3. Quote

    Look at jc refrigeration in Shipshewana. If you like the size and trim that refrigerator has now they can convert it to a 12 volt compressor cooling unit.

    I spoke to them last week. And I viewed and read a few reviews on the conversion. First, it's rather expensive. About $1100+ all in if they do the conversion. Second, you are still dealing with a space robbing, ice frosting,  aluminum fin type of cooling system. As long as my 520w of solar and 200aH of Lithium can get me through 48 hours with a residential/inverter, I'd be fine. I have a generator and a 40a DC to DC charger running off the tow vehicle to charge batteries if there is extended no solar.....I 95% boondock.

    Decision....Decisions!

  4. I've totally HAD IT with my propane refrigerator. Camping at the beach last week where the temperatures at night got down to mid 50s and during the day into the high 80s, the propane refrigerator temperature in both the freezer and main unit was all over the place. Melted Ice Cream in the afternoon and frozen vegetables in the morning! I bought an internal fan system and a rheostat temperature control from JC Refrigeration and it didn't help at all.....Soooo...

     I've decided to go with a compressor refrigerator.....8 cu ft

    The choice is a $1500 12V DC unit or a 120v residential unit for $400 and an inverter.

    My trailer has a 1000w Xantrex inverter, 520watts of solar and 200aH of Lithium

    If the inverter and residential frig needs more battery bank, I can buy a bunch of battery Ah for the $1100 difference!

    What say the board? Any experience with the residential/inverter situation?

    The residential refrigerator I'm looking at has a rating of 6a @ 120v.

    The DC refrigerator is 3a at night -9a during the day at 12V

     

    Thanks in advance!

  5. 8 hours ago, rickeieio said:

    In the 8 years and roughly 40k miles we've had our 21k# toyhauler, I've adjusted one bearing, and repacked none.  All were done a couple months ago, and the mechanic said all bearings were in great shape with the grease a little dirty in just one.

    BTW, three 8k Dexter using grease.

    Agree with Darryl above.  If you service the bearings and get one a little too tight, it matters not whether you have oil or grease, it's going to fail.

    Quick….go buy a lottery ticket! You have amazing luck!😁

  6. Their advice was that if my trailer sat a lot, likemost RV trailers, the grease was better. Why?  The oil willdrain down over time and the bearing will dry out and possiblyeven rust. 

    Not a real issue. Modern oils have a great ability to cling. If not, all engines that dont get used much would have everything above the oil pan rusting.

  7. It seems everyone I talk to that puts reasonable miles on their trailer have had a "Wheel Bearing" issue. I pull a 20' toy hauler and never haul toys with it. I'm way under rated weight wise for my hubs. Yet I've had two wheel bearing failures and the trailer has about  50K miles on it. I repack the bearing religiously every two years or 10,000 miles on a repack......Yet I still experienced failures...As have so many more long distance haulers......(and some that don't tow long distances at all)

    BUT!!!....How come in over 50 years of driving cars and trucks, and I've never owned a car that didn't go over 180,000 miles, (I was an on the road consultant, trainer) I've NEVER serviced a vehicles front wheel bearings (or rear bearings for that matter)....I've had a number of cars go over 250K miles!...And asking around, I've not met anyone that had either. 

    Interesting......

  8. Quote

    Your engineering Rule of Thumb is flawed, too. Engine main bearings definitely slide, yet they're oil lubed. Crawler tractor bearings run on grease.

    Not MY rule of thumb......Been a rule for ages.... And, engine bearings "slide"???......As far as tractor bearings (and wheel bearings) some engineering designs have it all wrong......OR....There are exceptions to every rule.....😁

     

  9. Quote

     why bother? 

    It just seems like a better solution. Rule of thumb in engineering school was...If it slides=grease / if it rolls=oil..... Much easier maintenance. And if all the big trucks are doing it, it must be better?

    Looking at the various reviews it seems like 95% love it and those that don't it appears they didn't install the rear seal properly and they leaked.

    I just respect the opinions of this group and wanted to see who has used them and comments.

     

    Thanks!

  10. A while ago I posted about my DIY Lithium Battery Heating system. So far, with temperatures at night reaching into the 20s (F), it has been working great. The batteries in the trailer have BMS with Bluetooth and it records the batteries average internal temperature. Staying around 40 degrees day and night. I wanted to know how often during the night the heating pad turned on. I installed a small LED on the outside of the trailer that illuminates when the heater is on. My "RING" camera security system records through the day and night and I can go back and review the video with a time stamp. I can see the light turning on and off. Last night it got down to 20F. The battery heater turned on for 7 minutes every hour +/-.....200ah batteries this morning are at 93%.....I'm very pleased with this performance... http://rvbprecision.com/rv-projects/lithium-battery-heating-project.html

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