bigredhdt

Guess I'm not sure I follow you.  With the spring brakes applied, there should be no air going to the spring port and the service port only has air when you apply them.

I want to consult the collective brain trust to make sure I replace what is broken rather.

The valve leaks at the exhaust port at all times: with and without the spring brakes applied, with and without the service brakes applied.

Bad valve?

TI have kodiak brakes on my trailer that is circa 2008.  As you probably know the new bolts come with blue loctite on them.  Since they must be removed to pack the bearings, I made the mistake of putting them back on without new loctite and they backed out on me as well.  One of the other issues is that it is hard to keep the loctite clean because it is hard to keep the grease out of the inside of the rubber boot.

I now take a rag and run through the inside of the rubber boot before putting the bolt back in with red loctite on it.  

Bottom line is this may be an assembly issue rather than a hardware problem.

What are you all using to seal the npt rubber hose fittings that go to the brake chamber from the relay/abs valve assembly?

Went to get financing for truck that is considered a commercial truck based on VIN and am stuck in loophole.  Even though I am a private individual, they won't finance under auto and won't finance under commercial because I don't have a business.  Any ideas?  I really don't want to just pay cash for it.

Thanks, that's the recommended kit.  Just trying to see if anyone has done it.  In order to get to the relay without removing, I have to cut a hole in the deck.  Still much less work than replacing.

My 2007, Volvo vnl, still a tandem, has a leak on the exhaust port of the traction control relay.  After reading  about it on the bendix page, it's internals are the same as the r12, r14 non abs relay which has a rebuild kit.  Has anyone rebuild this relay valve?  Any recommendation?  It's a lot of work to replace it since I would have to disconnect cut the brake lines since they don't have swivel fittings on the valve assembly and the abs modulator relays are connected to the traction relay with threaded pipe.

Ndbirdman must live in the Peoples Republic of California.  I am on Ohio, everything was easy.  Duallies  get abused by large trailers and will not have the longevity of a used HDT.  I towed my horsetrailer w/living quarters for 5 years with a dually before making the jump to HDT.  I would never go back.

I'm thinking my rear leveling valve is not working correctly.  My truck is not singled.  When I take the trailer off the truck it takes about 60-90 seconds for the bags to release to the required level.  How quickly do ur tractors adjust?

That product says for metal to metal contacts.  This is metal to rubber.

I have kodiak disc brakes on my trailer.  The mount consist o a rubber sleeve that fits inside the caliper, the a stainless tube, inside the tube is where the mounting bolt goes.  Grease goes between the rubber bushing and the stainless tube.  I have used anti-sieve which is not the right application, now I use the disc caliper grease, but in one year it is no longer any use.  Any suggestions out there?

Musk tends to promise "the world" and delivers space dust.  Self driving cars in 2018, model 3 production goal, now Tesla network of autonomous taxis next year, etc, etc.

Good tip to vary purchase price.

How do you purchase fuel?  I have been using my credit cards, but they limit the purchase per credit card swipe.  $100 - $125 is less than a 1/4 tank.  Also I frequently get shut down on the 3rd swipe of my card even with notifying the card company of my specific cards.

Do any of you use the commercial fuel cards like "fuelman"?

On 5/24/2019 at 1:18 PM, Radar274 said:

That poor Volvo (Lucy) suffered and suffered for days.  It is Monday 4:07 pm. and Lucy needs to be pressed into service on Thursday for a short 500 mile trip for the DW.  I am lucky enough to have a friend that manages a large flee of trucks and most of them are Volvo's......so after work he stopped by to take a look.  He said Nox sensors are finicky you probably should replace it...... crimping the wires together or soldering might work but down the road your asking for trouble.  So I removed the sensor and headed down to Volvo for a replacement.  Hang on to your Knickers..... they aren't cheap but I have been told that the aftermarket sensors have a 30% failure rate.  I handed over the old sensor to the parts man and told him the story about Mr Woodchuck... we have a very expensive laugh as he rang up the sale!   Get home put the sensor in..... easy peazy 2 bolts and 1 zip tie.  I cleaned the Def doser and replaced the the doser gasket as well.  Next I turn the key and start her up.....I here the beep and up pops the scr derate message.  Now what? Texted my friend who stops by with generic Volvo software.  He couldn't get it to clear the codes to do a park regen, so we decided I would stop by his work at lunch time on Wednesday and he would clear the codes with the official Volvo software and do a regen.  Wednesday I get into the truck, start it up, here the Beep and see the SCR Derate in <20minutes message, bummer it's 30minutes to his shop. Luckily I have a code reader that temporarily clears the codes.  I get to his shop he clears the codes and does a regen. After the regen the codes reappear so we decide the only way to get it fixed by tomorrow morning is by going to Volvo.  I get to Volvo, they say that they might be able to fit it that tonight if I leave it.  As I am waiting for a ride home the service manager comes out, plugs in with his computer and say's which sensor did you replace the inlet or outlet Nox?  He said lets take a look......that's the wrong Nox sensor he says.  By the time I get to the parts department the correct sensor is sitting on the counter.  I replace the Sensor in the parking lot (old school) and all is Good😎. So What lessons have I learned

Lesson #1 Be prepared.... Tractor needs a minimum of a 22 mag.

Lesson #2 Make sure you check that the part numbers match up even though they look the same.

Lesson #3 Be prepared..... Carry a Code Reader that clears active codes in your truck.

Love these trucks Always learning Bob

 

 

What is a source for one of these code readers?