Carlos

What is a "false alarm?"  Were these systems without a pressure display, and only say "too low?"  I've had a few different cheap TPMS on trailers, a truck, and a couple of motorcycles.  When they have problems the display simply stops giving me pressure at all.  It has never shown incorrect pressure (other than just failing to update a past pressure).  So I don't understand what a false alarm could be.

Well if you're not doing much and have time to kill...  https://github.com/marcone/teslausb

I'm using a Zero.

Yeah, I see 2.0 speeds, and right under 2.1 amps max with my USB power tester.  But...my phone only actually gets a true 1.9.  Meanwhile my Jeep feeds almost 3a (USB-C).  So to overcome this, I picked up a generic A/C hub that has a 12v power input, and I'll power that directly to get max charge and more ports.  The Pi also powers right off its port.

The wife also wants to plug in a game controller.  Sheesh.

Yeah, in 20 they started putting in C, lucky you.  My phone's magnetic charger hates the Tesla.  It's C only, with an A to C adapter, and fails to charge on the first drive every day.  WTF!  Yes, tried four different adapters.  Small pain.

The rear USB ports are charge only on the 3, which is likely also true on the Y.  No media, no recording.

If your car has USB-A, then it really won't matter much, but A is capable of everything the car can use anyway.  My M3 is a 2019 with the A ports.

By default, save on honk is off.  But you can always save with the screen icon, and it will save if a collision is detected or motion is detected when parked.  Sentry is super sensitive.  I'm tired of watching videos of lizards walking on my car.  It was cute once.  Sentry also puts a monster load on your memory device, because it's recording 24/7, no matter what.  And then it simply moves event files to another folder, or deletes non-event files.  This is unlike your standard dashcam that records only while driving, and some record AFTER detected motion while parked but do not record all the time.

But again, a super important thing to remember is that without some sort of third party add-on like the Pi, the car will always erase anything older than an hour unless saved.  Which is so damn dumb.  The basic $80 dashcam in my other car just keeps saving days of stuff until the card is full.

Also worth noting...  The interior camera is not recorded except for a collision or an auto-braking event.  There is NO AUDIO, unlike every other dashcam on the market.  The left and right repeater (fender) cameras are recorded, but NOT the B-pillar camera.

Here's another very important programmable feature.

31 minutes ago, RV_ said:

I set up a 128GB Flash drive for it and have it set for saving on my honking the horn. :

Oh, also, the forums seem to agree that flash drives are most error prone.  They are not intended to be written to at the rate the car does, and constantly erased.  They don't seem to have any reliable wear leveling.  The common recommendation is to use either an SSD (the car will support it fine), or a dashcam-specific micro SD card in an adapter.  I have a 256GB Samsung Endurance video-specific micro SD in the Pi.

Tesla cam is for sure a "barely there" afterthought from Tesla.  Luckily, nearly everything else about the car is absolutely awesome.

The Tesla camera recording is limited and fraught with problems.  I have a model 3 LR.  I've spent a lot of time messing with the cameras and the video.  I've also managed to see a number of interesting incidents while driving it, and then found that the video wasn't there when I went to get it.  For this reason, I now have a Raspberry Pi with the Teslacam Pi software doing the recording in the car, and uploading/storing it.

While you can optionally set the car to save the last five (or so) minutes of video if you honk or press the save button, it's not always reliable.  Several times I got a video where the last file actually ended just before the horn/save, and therefore, missed the actual event.  The Sentry will keep recording to "recent clips" so if you wanted to get something and didn't hit save, it will be gone.  This became an issue when I found out that a neighbor had a security issue at his house, and I would have had the video to help, because I noticed the problem person getting into his car as I came home.  But it didn't seem important enough to save at the time.  Overnight, Sentry had overwritten it (it does so every HOUR--only saves one hour).

Sometimes there are just gaps in recordings.  Last week I saw something pretty funny, and decided to grab the video when I got home.  There was about 35 minutes of just missing video.  Which the Tesla forums say basically, "yeah that happens."  Great.

Here's one that did work...idiots everywhere.

I choose to believe it's completely true, and that he had already ignored the beep and buzz functions, and had to be shocked at a 9.  I mean, that's how it always is(COUGH) I mean would be with me.

1 hour ago, Kirk W said:

From the VW website....

 

Right, which doesn't address what I was asking at all.  Can you change the alarm point (pressure however you guess at it), or simply tell it to reset?  Two different things.

Change the specific pressure they alarm at, or reset and recalibrate the system?  Our BMW has an onscreen process to reset also.  Still can't change the alarm pressure.  Same with our other vehicles.

3 hours ago, Kirk W said:

Your TPM doesn't have the ability to reset? The one on our 2019 car says to reset it any time that tire work of any kind is done, after making sure that all tires are properly inflated. It seems to work quite well in the 6 months that we have had it. 

Reset doesn't change the fact that aftermarket tires with different pressures will still set it off.  I have had several vehicles with non-standard tires and used a programmer on them to change their internal settings.  But that's a minimum $125 cost if there's a programmer available for it.  My current Jeep has "factory upgrade" tires (Rubicon Gladiator) but I still skirt the line of getting warnings because when unloaded, the chalk test shows that it needs to run much lower than the stated "normal" pressures.  I have a programmer and am just waiting for enough testing to know what to set it to.

3 hours ago, Kirk W said:

although I am told that crate training for children is not considered PC?

Yeah well, just wait until you hear what most people think about shock collars for children...

I run a small phone company, and I personally wrote our 911 processing software.  Nearly every place in the country can have an "address" assigned to it, and it just helps to think about how first responders may get to you.  It can get complicated.  An acre parcel is easy to address, a house on 60 acres in the middle, can be harder.  Rural residents are encouraged to buy "911 address" signs so that responders can find that, and it provides directions (Southwest 1.2 miles to residence).

https://www.collincountytx.gov/gis_rural_addressing/Documents/Display.pdf

Cellular 911 is getting better and better, so if you have service, that could be the best bet.  Note that you can do a 911 test call.  Dial 911 and say "this is not an emergency, this is a test, is this a good time for it?"  If they say no, hang up.  If they say yes they will read back to you your location and info on their system.

Here's an instance of one of our semi-rural addresses (details changed to protect privacy, you can't actually look it up):

307 E, AZ-68 F, Payson, AZ 85541

The military has nothing to do with this, and you know it.  There's no right to keep and bear in the military, and nothing about the second amendment has anything to do with the military.  But you know that.

2 minutes ago, pjstough said:

So why do you believe that the writers of the 2nd use the terms, "keep and bear", and didnt use the terms, buy, sell, trade or give away?

Because they incorrectly assumed that every rational and intelligent person would know that buying and selling are an intrinsic part of "keeping" which is also a component of "bearing."  Nobody had any idea at that time what contortions anti-gunners would make of plain and simple language.

3 hours ago, pjstough said:

"Keeping and bearing" is not the same as owning, buying, selling, trading or giving away.

Keeping and bearing is exactly the very definition of owning.  The other three are different, required components of bearing.

Yes, exactly.  You only deploy the booster in super low signal situations.  And then it really shines.

I've never had the booster make a bad signal worse.  It will definitely cause issues with a decent signal, and may make it worse.  It should only be used when needed.  We are totally dependent on the internet for our jobs, which is to manage servers, so basically we're connected 24/7.  We notice when things work or don't.

I have the Weboost car kit, which is the same electronics as the RV kit with a different antenna.  I got a free cell/wifi/GPS antenna from a friend and will add that some day.  But so far it has worked great as is.  I just stuck the car antenna on the trailer roof and ran the wires in the door.

I'm talking about the AT&T Mobley plan, not OTR.  I'm only interested in the Mobley plan because it's so cheap, and AT&T is only my backup carrier.  I rarely need it.  T-Mobile and Sprint are completely useless for me.

Currently I'm at the "either cancel me with no penalty or fix it" stage.  But I *am* using an unauthorized device, outside the ToS.  They haven't told me that, but they can know if they look.

The Mobley plan no longer exists.  If you have one and make no changes to it, then it will stay.  But if you change anything on the account, they will bump you off and refuse to give it back.  Ask me how I know...

33 minutes ago, Lou Schneider said:

If you have income from a YouTube channel, use the RV to produce the content and have the website or a logo displayed on the RV does this meet the commercial use threshold?  <g>

Yes, of course.  Same as a TV van is a commercial vehicle.  There will be a day, probably soon, that the Youtubers will have to comply with all the stuff that a TV van has to.

There are 120v and 5v USB adapters.  I have a 5v version, since that means it can also work from 120v using a generic USB power adapters.  Maximum flexibility.  $10 on Amazon.

Now my Mobley stays powered up at all times, and is draining the car battery.  What fun.