etu

I understand now. Thanks. I'll check it and reply. 

I've checked and cleaned the battery ground on the chassis. It looked fine. Please explain how to check the battery across a light. 

Ok so I just checked my 50 amp cable ground and it is fine when checked as Kirk suggested.

While there I looked at the wiring going from the main body to the slideout and noticed the 2 coax cables going to the entertainment center is in a 5/8" corrugated wiring loom along with several 12v wires. just wondering if this is good ptactice?

Great replies. Thanks.

Yes battery is connected and shows 12.7 volts when the shore power is off.

The problem occurs at home and at campsites so I don't think it is a shore power problem. Not sure how to test my 50 amp power cable on the camper end for ground but I'll look into that. 

With a previous camper I had an led light that created a similar problem but when I replaced that one light all was well. 

Thanks for all the input. 

I have an idea. Next time I'm camping and have access to cable I think I'll hook the campground cable to my "satellite in" at the outside compartment and hook my Tv to the satellite output terminal at the entertainment center.

Based on our tracing (and a Keystone schematic) the satellite in cable goes directly to the entertainment center. This would bypass the entire Wineguard switch and all the other related coax. If that is successful it would be one more reason to replace the Wineguard switch. Am I thinking correctly?

Thanks Ken. Is the trap or filter something you put on the coax just before going into the Tv or is it before going into the Wineguard antenna switch?

We have a 2016 Keystone Cougar 5th wheel we bought in May and are still learning about certain details. Our last trip was first time we used heat and it worked fine. However when the furnace fan cuts on TV reception goes bad. Screen may freeze up or pic goes off altogether. That was on cable. When I got back home I tried it on antenna and same thing. Also happens when the bathroom vent fan is turned on. 

I had my local TV service man out and we traced all coaxial cables (and labeled them) and we put on all new crimp on terminals. We also tested all the cables with 75ohm test caps and we don't have any unusual resistance on any cables. Also tested the 12v power at the antenna switch with and without the fans on and we have 13.10-13.11V D.C. 

Im thinking I should replace the Wineguard antenna switch as next step. Any other ideas?

I hope I don't need a surgeon that is listening to music and starts playing the air guitar while yielding a scalpel!!!

Yes I'm looking at one with a remote. The bath and the bedroom are at the highest point so I may put it in the bath to replace the noisy one. 

Where is the most ideal area to install these vent fans in 5er? (Living room, vs Bath vs bedroom). If I install in the living area I'd need a step stool or chair to reach it to operate manually.  In the bath or bedroom no problem. 

You're right on Denny I did that and it helped but the repeated crimping every time the slide was returned looked like it had compromised the pipe so I have a new one coming. 

4 hours ago, Kirk W said:

I had not thought of the refrigerator being located in a slide, but that would clearly cause the problem. I suspect it would have happened sitting still if you had closed the slide. I had not run across that isse but have seen several different plumbing problems with kitchen slides that have the sink in them. 

Kirk when I found this it was after I'd tried to ignite the gas with the slide in after returning home and before hooking to shore power (still thinking about electrical issues). I could hear the igniter working and realized the problem was no gas. I slid underneath to look at the gas supply lines and there it was.

Every time before when I'd tried to run it on gas it would be when we were packing up to leave for a trip and the slide was out. The last thing I'd do after converting to gas (always successfully) is close the kitchen slide. After the slide was in I closed and locked the doors and the trip began. I would only realize the check light was on down the road at rest or fuel stops. 

Its so obvious in hind sight!! 

Thanks again for all the input. 

Eddy

Thanks to all for your input. The problem is the flex gas line was being crimped when the slide was closed. I removed the zip ties so the line could flex and it works fine now.  I'll try to attach a photo.

my camper has that extra ground but when I get back home I'll check all those recomedations. Just an update it still did not work while traveling to our campsite today. Also I believe it failed on gas as soon as I pulled the shore ac power. I could not get it to re ignite at home this morning before pulling out.

When we arrived at campsite I checked it after we got settled in and it ignited on the first click  but we were connected to AC power. Tomorrow I'll switch to gas and turn off Shore power to confirm if happens again.

Thanks Ray. I'll check this out after our trip this week.

Thanks for everyone's feedback. I'm really beginning to think it's a loose connection or poor ground. The service manual does say a loose ground will produce erratic behavior in gas mode. That might explain why it works fine sitting but goes out on the road. Yesterday with access panel off I tried to blow out the flame and could not affect it at all. However If there was a bad or intermittent ground, it would shut off the solenoid and set off a series of reignition attempts. 

Thanks for the input D&J. Yes I've removed all the shields and checked& cleaned the burner and confirmed spec on the ignighter spacing. Everything looks fine. 

Today I removed cover on circuit board and checked the connection of the igniter. Also checked that ground wires were tight and the connections going to the gas valve were clean and tight. We'll try it again on Tuesday when we hit the road again. 

Thanks Kirk. I had read that service manual but it is for a RM not DM and I've not found a service manual specific for a DM2852 which what we have.  On the model we have, there is no thermocouple, instead it has an integrated igniter. 

Yes it gives the "check" light code.  We just bought the camper from the original owner in March. They only used it twice. The problem has occurred on all 5 of our outings since we've had it. 

Agreed, even in the check mode it stays cold between home and our campsites which hare mainly 3-6 hours away. Still my older camper with similar fringe always worked on propane while mobile. I'd still like to get it sorted out. 

Im thinking (that's scary...) there could be three possible reasons:

1) wind- but I've verified we have the factory wind shield upgrades 

2) integrated igniter or loose connection at circuit board

3) bad circuit board

I don't think it likely to be bad circuit board cause it works on electrical or gas when parked. I'm going to check the connection of the igniter and circuit board. 

Eddy

We have a  2016 Keystone Cougar 5v we really enjoy. Only problem is our frig will not work on propane while traveling. Works fine when parked on eithe gas or electric.

I've researched the problem and read a number of cases where wind causes the flame to go out. Some folks have made shields from sheet metal, some installed upgrade shields from the manufacturer. Best I can tell ours has the upgraded shields already in place.  I even installed a 1"x10"x20" ac filter inside the cover on our last trip but that was no help. 

The igniter works fine, the flame looks good. There is no air ratio adjustment on the burner and the setting of the thermo resister tip in the flame is according to spec.

What is the next logical step? I was thinking of checking the connection of the thermo resister inside the circuit board control  box but not sure what to look for? We are headed out again next Tuesday. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks

Looking at a 2014 and a 2015 Palomino Columbus 320RS (Forest River). They both have 2 AC units, one in living area the second in front bedroom.  My question is the one in BR connected to the same duct work as the rear? Or is it just dropping air in the BR?  

Reason for question is I'm wondering if I don't run the BR ac will the rear ac unit supply air to the BR ducts? 

Thanks 

We are looking for our second 5th wheel and looking at 2014 and newer. Ran across a palomino 320 rear living and had never seen one before.  What's the general opinion of this brand?

We have a 2004 Keystone Challener 29rlb 5er (31'9"'). This is our first camper and we have been totally happy with it. We bought it used in 2012 but it must have been stored inside for most of those years because it was like new and still looks very nice today. Only 3 repairs:1) the inverter because I hooked it up to incorrect power source at my shop the week we got it. 2) stuck one way valve on the hot water supply to the kitchen sink on our 3rd year. 3) broken plastic drawer track guide in bedroom chest last year.  Oh yeah, I forgot we also replaced the fabric on the awning.

We especially like the rear living area with the large rear window which always seems to look out over scenic views, rivers, lakes and oceans. We especially like the separate room for the bathroom closet. The cabinets are real wood and sturdy.

I'm happy with everything as but dw wants more kitchen counter space. So we are on the look for a newer one with an island in the kitchen. So far we have been reminded how much sturdier our camper "feels" comared to the ones built today. We will stay at or just under 35 feet to ensure we can find a space when we drop in without warning. And we are looking for a good used one so someone else enjoys the depreciation. Until then we like ours just fine. 

Eddy

Thank you so much. I search but had not found that link. Very good thank you. 

The 25 year warranty sounds good but only applies to the original owner. 

Looking at a 2015 cougar 5th wheel that has subfloor called 5/8" Dyna Span. I'm not familiar with this and a call to Keystone CS was not enlightening. Anyone have any pros & cons to share?