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I owe y’all an update and apology. I found the problem. I checked the shore power supply and everything was correct just like Kirk’s picture shows. The problem was the power cord was not fully engaged at the camper side. Put it in securely and everything is fine. sorry to bother y’all but it was not obvious by walk around that that connection was not tight. Plus with half the electricals working that was not my first thought. thanks again for all your help.

Ok thanks for the leads. Been too busy with several appointments today to do any serious follow up. But I did find the microwave clock is not lit up and the gfi outlet on the kitchen island and bathroom are not getting power. GFI breaker was not tripped but I did turn it off and back on but that didn’t solve the problem. However some 110 outlets are getting power. I got to let out the slides to check them all and I’ll do that tomorrow. We had a power outage several days ago so I need to check whether my voltage supply to the 50 amp shore power plug is providing correct power. Something may have occurred when the power was lost or came back on. thanks again for the replies.

I did oust the breaker all way of then back on but I don’t recall feeling a click. I’ll check it again tomorrow. Not sure where to check the converter for 110 power but I’ll get the manual on it and see if I can find it.

Went out to check my Rv (2016 Keystone Cougar 5er) because of the extra cold weather over the next few days. Noticed the converter didn’t quietly hum as it normally does when I turned on some 12v lights. The Rv is connected to shore power. Checked the 110v power breaker box and the 20 Amp breaker for the converter was tripped. I reset it but didn’t hear anything. Checked the battery voltage on my auto leveler instrument panel and it was only 12.3 volts while it is normally 13.2. Sounds like my converter may have gone out? What's the first checks I should make to confirm if its good or bad.

I owe y’all a belated update. Even though I had cleaned the coil with water I went ahead and cleaned the roof top coil with a professional grade coil cleaner. It foamed up like shaving cream and boiled out a lot of dark residue. I repeated the cleaning and now I’m getting 18-20 degree differential. unit cycles on and off after replacing the control kit so I’m ok I think. thank you for all the advice and replies.

Thanks Denny, We removed the filter grid and checked temps as the air entered the evaporator coil fins. Our Air Distribution Box has an option to open and direct air flow from the blower immediately below the unit before going into the duct work. That’s where we measured cold side air. Our check points were close to the warm air return and the cold air out as you can get. We used a magnetic mount digital thermometer to allow the thermometer to stay in place as long as necessary to get stable measurements. We replaced the control box and thermostat because on last camping trip the unit had repeatedly failed to restart after room temp has exceeded set point by 10 degrees or more. (We’d leave the camper early in the morning while outside and inside temps were around 67 and set the ac to auto at 72 degrees. When we retuned late afternoon (outside temps around 82), the air temp inside the camper was around 84 and the ac had never cut on) In those cases I had to switch the ac to off, reset CT thermostat to - -, then reset to auto ac at 72 degrees. Then the unit would immediately cut on, cool to the set point, drop from high to low and then shut off as normal. However it would not start back up unless I reset as described above. I replaced the CT thermostat but that did not help. So we replaced the control box in hopes it would solve that problem After we replaced the control box and with a new CT thermostat we rechecked the air temps and there was no difference from the temps we checked initially. The tech then said it indicted low charge and recommended replacing the AC. Perhaps you can tell me, why don’t they use R134 in these units.

Ok new ac options have been narrowed down to Dometic FreshJet FJX3573. This is a 15k BTU model that should be compatible with my existing internal air distribution box, ducts and control kit. Should be “plug and play” according to the tech. Based on all I’ve read and reviewed I think I’ll do the install. I’ll let y’all know how that goes in another month or so. One thing that gets me is, why didn’t the manufacturer put refrigerant ports on these things? If I had ports I could top off the charge on my existing units and enjoy cold air. How much could it add to the cost to put ports on compared to the crimping and welding they had to do to to seal the lines once they charged the unit?

Thanks Kirk. Mine must be newer than that manual covers, mine has r410 refrigerant and 3 wire thermostat.

Update. Ac did not work any better when I changed thermostats. So got a mobile AC tech coming tomorrow. Update 10/3. First, our camper is a 2016 cougar 303rl (33’ long). It has one 15k btu Dometic B59516 ac in the kitchen/ rear living area. Had the Refrigeration/HVAC mobile tech come today. Fins and coils are clean and the best we could get is 16-17 degree differential between return air and cold side. Went ahead and changed out the control kit including thermostat but didn’t make any difference. He said the unit behaves as if it’s low on charge but the cost of 410 and installation of ports don’t justify the cost (~$500) that could go towards a new unit with 2 year warranty. We have a trip planned in 2 weeks in the north Ga mountains and cooler weather. I think I’ll wait until we get back from that trip to replace the AC. I guess if I go with Dometic all the lower(interior) components are plug and play. If I go with another brand I’d have to replace the lower unit as well. I’m leaning towards replacing the upper with the Dometic and do it myself but I’ll need to think about that and see some videos before I decide.

Update. First, our camper is a 2016 cougar 303rl (33’ long). It has one 15k btu Dometic B59516 ac in the kitchen/ rear living area. Had the Refrigeration/HVAC mobile tech come today. Fins and coils are clean and the best we could get is 16-17 degree differential between return air and cold side. Went ahead and changed out the control kit including thermostat but didn’t make any difference. He said the unit behaves as if it’s low on charge but the cost of 410 and installation of ports don’t justify the cost (~$500) that could go towards a new unit with 2 year warranty. We have a trip planned in 2 weeks in the north Ga mountains and cooler weather. I think I’ll wait until we get back from that trip to replace the AC. I guess if I go with Dometic all the lower(interior) components are plug and play. If I go with another brand I’d have to replace the lower unit as well. I’m leaning towards replacing the upper with the Dometic and do it myself but I’ll need to think about that and see some videos before I decide.

I’ve cleaned the coil and the fins. I also sealed all the ducts. Every air outlet was poorly sealed to the duct work and had cold air leaking into the roof space. Now i have real good airflow even in the bedroom at the opposite end of the system. Had to do same thing with my previous camper. I’m convinced air ducts are one of the most poorly installed components in a camper.

Update. Ac did not work any better when I changed thermostats. So got a mobile AC tech coming tomorrow.

Thanks Kirk and Ken, I just learned today my current ac is 15k btu so it should be doing a better job of cooling. It’s a Dometic B59516.711J0. product number 9360 Got a mobile RV Refrigeration & Air Tech coming tomorrow to check it out. I’ll post what I find out tomorrow.

Considering replacing my AC. Current one is 13.5k btu and considering upgrading to 15k. would really like a quieter one. Who makes the best? My current one has a 3 wire thermostat, is that common?

Thanks. Dometic confirms my thermostat is correct one. Both this and the original thermostat are 3 wire options. The CT has a back light feature so you can read it in the dark.

Sorry Kirk. Yes I understand all about the outside shower connections. It’s the tank flush connector (female water hose) just below the shower fittings that I had a question. The sticker next to that water hose inlet says Do not use the tank flush valve unless the fullway termination valve is open…. I didn’t know what a fullway termination valve was. I’ve since learned from other forums that “a fullway termination valve “ is a fancy term for black water tank drain valve. Thanks.

I have a 2016 Cougar and have a question about the back flush option. My owners manual doesn’t cover it. Below is a pic of the connection station. Im assuming the top water hose connection is the tank flush inlet. But I’m not sure what is the “fullway termination valve” mentioned on the sticker next to that inlet. Would that be the black tank drain valve?

Ok so I called Dometic ts and they said it sounds like the thermostat is bad. I just bought it last year but it’s past the 1 year warranty. Suggested I buy one online. If that doesn’t solve the problem they suggest replacing the circuit board on the AC unit. I’ll put my original thermostat back on and see what happens (it worked fine but did not have a back light). I’ll update what I find.

Yes that’s what mine is doing. I think I’ll reinstall my original thermostat which I replaced only because I wanted one with an illuminated panel for nighttime. Otherwise it worked fine. If I still have the problem after switching thermostat I assume it’s a bad connection on one of the 3 wires at the thermostat or at the unit. Is there anything else it could be ?

I have a problem with Ac on my 5th. I have a Dometic CT thermostat and everything on the control panel seems to function correctly(temp adjustment, switch from hear to air, fan speed etc). The ac will run fine when set to auto and will cycle from high to low and then off when it reaches set temp. However it will not cycle back on when the air temp exceeds the set temp. I have to turn it to off then reset to ac. Then it will start back up runs to the set temp and then repeats the problem. I just put this new thermostat on last summer and it worked fine but last 2 trips this problem. any suggestions. btw this is a 3 wire thermostat.

Our front landing legs on our 5th wheel has a L shape pin you can pull to adjust length of the legs when dropping off the camper. Christmas Day Buddy our springer spaniel was chasing something and impaled himself on the L shape pin. Five days at the vet and many stitches later Buddy is home again. I driiled a hole in two golf balls and glued them on the L shape pin. Not only protects Buddy but makes it easier to grasp and pull the pin. I'll try to load a photo later

Thanks I went to their website and found the model I need is out of stock. But I'm not looking for a a programmable model to control with my phone. Was hoping for a simpler upgrade so I can just see room temp and setting at night or without a flashlight. Thanks.

Would like to upgrade our Dometic single zone Thermostat for our 2016 Cougar 303. Would like one that has backlight so I can see it in the dark hallway and I'd like one that simultaneously shows current room temp as well as the set point. I've read all the threads and don't want anything complicated to install. Is there a simple option? thanks

Bruce T is right on. I traveled internationally for 30 years. Whenever I'd return from a trip abroad someone would ask what was the impressive country I'd seen. Without hesitation I'd say USA. Then I'd ask have you seen the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, the Patriarchs in Zion, the Rockies, fished the trout streams in Montana or Appalachia,etc. Some would quickly realize they did not have to travel far to see some of the most beautiful sights on earth right here in USA. Our National and State parks are treasures waiting to be discovered.

I'll give that a try. Thanks