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mb36912

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Posts posted by mb36912

  1. In addition, the new FAA regs require you to have a sUAS (small Unmanned Aircraft System) license/certificate of registration to operate a drone that weighs in excess of 8 oz ("stick of butter" reg).  You can read about the regulations at the following FAA sites....pretty much the same as mptjelgin  listed above.

    https://www.faa.gov/uas/getting_started/ 

    https://www.faa.gov/uas/recreational_fliers/

    I was flying at a field in Florida 2 years ago and had a local FWS Conservation Officer stop and watch me.  He ended up asking me if I was trying to spot deer or wildlife with it (not allowed); I told him no and he asked if I had my FAA sUAS registration with me and if my model was labelled with it.  I said I did and it was; I landed and showed him the label and my certificate and he was happy.  He stayed around for a bit talking to me about flying and then left.  I have flown in many places around the country; many flying fields ask to see my AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) card and ask if I have an FAA sUAS number but that is the only time I have ever had a law enforcement officer stop and check me out.

  2. X2 with NDBirdman for time to approve and his experience regarding interstate FFL transfer procedure.   

    I live in IN and buying long guns in MI is no issue, but handguns worked the same way as with NDBirdman with me buying 15 miles away in MI.  It was $35 cheaper in MI but I would have had to pay the IN dealer $25 for the transfer.  I decided that was a PITA and went ahead and bought it in IN.  Despite MI and IN having reciprocity regarding CCW, it does not extend to purchasing a handgun in another state.

    Regarding background check time, I just purchased a Ruger Precision in Plymouth, IN and it took almost 35 minutes to get the approval.  The previous purchase at a different dealer a few months earlier only took a couple of minutes.  They told me that it depends on the amount of traffic the federal site is experiencing.  

  3. When we got our rig and took it to Mor/Ryde for inspection of the bearings and IS after 4 years, they said the bearings should be good for 100k miles, but they should be inspected for end play every year.  They said a lot depends on how heavily each spindle is loaded and how much torsional loading they receive due to sharp turns, backing, tire scrubbing, etc.  Our 7k axles run less than 80% loaded or between 2500 lbs and 2800 lbs per wheel position (3500 lbs/wheel rated).  In 2018 (after 10 yrs), we had one bearing getting close to the max end play and had them all replaced ($1200).  If we could have economically converted to standard wheel bearings, we would have done that.

  4. Didn't realize you were in Retama Village.....we spent the last year 6/2018 - 6/2019) next door in Bentsen Palm Village.  We walked through Retama quite a few times and looked at the HDT's and rigs but never saw anyone outside to talk to.  Too late now....maybe next time.  We left Mission in June and are now in Ohio just starting the meandering trek to Alpine, TX for the winter.

  5. Great questions and great backstory.  Barb and others have provided excellent responses.

    Like you, albeit 9 years ago, we started out with zero RV experience, but were fortunate enough to have already discovered Escapees and this forum.  With everyone’s help and advice, we attended a Boot Camp before ever buying our TV and fiver.  Thank goodness we did or we would have been very unhappy with our first unit.  That being said, we still managed to “forget” some things and had to learn them from the school of hard knocks.  Thus, we now have inside and outside checklists for departure and arrival. When we hear newbie stories today, we can say:  yep, been there; done that.  

    Hang in there and enjoy the journey, it will get easier.  

  6. 21 minutes ago, kb0zke said:

    X2. Even then, your second one may not be exactly right. About the time you think you have it right, circumstances change, and something else makes more sense.

    My suggestion is that you try to figure out what you will be doing and what sorts of things will be necessary for you to accomplish that. For example, if going up and down steps is difficult, you probably don't want a 5'er, since going from outside to the upper level is about a flight of stairs in a house. If you are going to stay in one place for several months at a time, a towable probably makes more sense than a MH.

    Spend some time talking about what you want to do and how you want to live. Are you going to boondock a lot, some, or never? Are you going to be going to luxury RV resorts or will you be in COE parks? If you are going to boondock a lot you will be looking for solar, superior batteries, low-current appliances, and large tanks. If you are going to be at FHU sites all the time it doesn't matter how big the tanks are or how much current the appliances draw.

    Next, get into every RV you can, no matter the type, condition, or cost. Imagine yourselves living in that. "Wash" the dishes, "make" the bed, "take" a shower, "watch" television, "prepare" a meal. It won't take you very long to figure out what floor plans will work for you and which ones won't.

    Look at rigs that are several years old to see how they age. You can buy some very low-priced rigs that are ready for the junk yard after a few years of full-time use. That same money can buy you a used high end coach that will still look fairly new even after you've used it for several years. What's the difference? The quality of the construction.

    Pay attention to the difference between Gross Vehicle Weight Rating and Unloaded Weight. That difference is how much weight you can carry while traveling. In the case of a MH it includes the weight of the people, pets, fuel, water, groceries, television, etc. Some vehicles don't have much difference between GVWR (the most the rig can weigh) and the empty (dry) weight. Also find out what is included in that empty weight. Sometimes a dealer will spec a trailer with NO propane tanks or batteries and only one air conditioner. That keeps the price low and the empty weight low. They then advertise it that way. When you want propane and a battery, the price and weight go up. Dealers also like to quote the empty (dry) weight to unsuspecting customers. They may even tell you it is towable by a half-ton pickup. While they are technically correct, by the time the trailer is loaded for actual use it is beyond the safe ability of the half-ton truck.

    Travel trailers (bumper pulls) are the least expensive type of RV, and diesel pusher motor homes are the most expensive, at least as a general rule. Get used to the idea of something towing something else. A travel trailer of 5'er will require a truck. A MH can tow a fuel-efficient car or an off-road Jeep, or whatever else you want. You will have two or three engines to maintain with a MH, one or two with a towable. What's the extra engine? The generator.

    Everything kb0zke said!!!!  Start with the basics:

    • Attend an RV Bootcamp or RV Dreams education rally
    • Buy used
    • Check out as many as you can 
    • If buying a trailer, make sure your tow vehicle can pull it safely.
    • Make sure your rig has sufficient cargo carrying capacity (CCC)
    • Make sure your tires are rated for the load and in good shape

    You don’t have to start off with everything.  Start with the basics and grow from there.  Each of us started pretty much the same and learned what we wanted/needed as we went along.  Attending an RV Bootcamp or educational rally will broaden your knowledge base and help educate you tremendously while you are looking for a rig.

  7. HERO Maker:

    I have been here since last June; first at Casa de Palmas and now at Bentsen Palm Village.  

    I spent two years shutting down and disassembling two ignition wire plants in Nogales, SON and relocated them to an SMP operation just off 97 on the south side of Reynosa in the Parque Industrial Stiva Alcala.  I was supposed to be finished the end of last May, but the Reynosa operation had issues and needed help resolving maintenance, repair, and operational issues.   And so after heading north for cooler climes on June 1, we found ourselves once again turning south and heading back to the the border mid-June...albeit we were now about 1200 miles east of Nogales and in a much more humid environment.

    You are “In and out of Reynosa a lot”?  Are you working there also?

  8. I  worked 2 Peaks at Campbellsville and had a great time.....and will do it again.  The work was not “easy”, but I did not find any of the jobs hard or tiring.  Depending on what I did, I walked anywhere from 12,000 to 45,000 steps/day.  The “stow” positions averaged in the 12-14,000 range; “pick” averaged 14-20,000; “water spider” ranged from 20-45,000; “gift wrap” was hard for me as it required standing and very little walking but some people loved it; “ICQG“ (inventory control) was easy (maybe 6000 steps/day) but boring for me, “receiving/unloading” trucks was fun but requires twisting/bending/stooping/carrying with some heavy boxes.  The people were great and the work was .......work.  My piece rate never measured up, but as a CamperForce, employee I was only required to attain 85% of what was required of full-time employees.  I volunteered for any and all overtime and worked 60 hr weeks as often as possible, but 60 hours was never required.

    We stayed out at Green River RV Park across the street from the Green River State Park RC flying field and had a great time.  The people I spoke with at Heartland, the Stables, and the State Park all seemed satisfied with their places.  There were a few that decided they liked the idea of being across the street from the DC and walking to work that moved to Heartland but I think most people were content.

    I will not be a CamperForce worker this year as I have another commitment, but I would not hesitate to do it again.

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