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alan0043

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Posts posted by alan0043

  1. Hi Everyone,

    I am looking for a supplier or too that sells Delphi Metri Pack 280 connectors. I understand about using Google as my friend. But what I would like to know if anyone from the group uses any particular supplier to buy Delphi Metri Pack from. Anyone know about these guys, Custom Connector Kits ? Just looking for leads. I need to buy Metri Pack 280 5 way connectors, male and female and also Metri Pack 280 3 way, male and female.

    Thanks for any help,
    Al

  2. Hi Everyone,

    I was looking for what size wire gauge I need for the rear lights. I looked in the resource guide with no luck on finding wire size. I am working on adding some  LED lights ( running & turn signal ) to the rear of the truck. I need to build a small wiring hardness about 12 " long. It looks like the wire gauge size coming off the lights is 18 ga.. Is that correct ? It also looks like the stock wire size is 18 ga.. Using 18 ga. marine wire work for the small wire hardness ? I will be also using a Delphi Metri Pack 280 that can handle 5 wires for part of the hardness. 

    Thanks for any help,
    Al

     

     

  3. 13 hours ago, rollinbrian said:

    I think this was more like a consignment sale of an earlier truck.  Dunno beyond that.

    Thank you for sharing your photo. I like the paint job. Be safe on the road and enjoy the ride.

  4. 12 hours ago, ras32758 said:

    Alan,

    I have a 1999 vnl 610. Front shocks were a piece of cake. Ridgid 18 volt 1/2 impact wrench with 9ah battery and anti sieze applied by the last mechanic.

    On the rear shocks I could not access the back side of the upper shock mount except with my fingers. Not sure what the mechanic did when I last had all four shocks replaced. Don't know if that top mount used to be a stud that has since been cut off and replaced with a nut and a bolt. Service manual picture seems to indicate that a nut and bolt was used.

    Prior to installing the deck plate on the truck access would have easy.

    I think I could wedge a tool on the back side of the shock mount to get the bolt out but am not certain that I can manipulate the nut with my fingers to get it reinstalled. I am able to re-tighten the nut and bolt so that was good. Looking for more insight before I remove the upper bolt and find that I cannot reinstall it.

    What did you end up doing? 

    Hi ras,

    Thank you for your reply. Right now I am still dragging my butt to do the job. Just the other day I sprayed the front bolts with PB Blaster. Right now I have a few home projects to finish. You know, it's always something.  😄  Thanks for the tips.

    Alan

  5. 17 hours ago, trimster said:

    Jackalopee installed truck side.  I'll get the RV plug side done when the bed welding stuff is done.

    Bob

    jackalopee-installed.jpg

    Hello Bob,

    I have a question for you. The grey/aluminum  colored plate where it's mounted at. Where the bolts already there on your truck ? Or did you add the bolts to the truck ?

    Al

     

     

  6. 1 hour ago, SuiteSuccess said:

    kZfXkUHl.jpg

    If you’re talking about the whole section to the left of my duct they just have plastic clips so access by directions of Parrformance.  If you’re talking about the little black inserts where the switches go ...same thing, they are just clipped in.  Push from front carefully (easy to break the tabs.).  As to the faux wood trim below, start from the right with a flat head screw driver and gently pry.  It is spring clipped in.  DON’T start from left as it has a “hook” on that end that easily breaks off.  You’ll see as you work from right to left.  Switches themselves will just clip into the panel so you can arrange any way you wish.

    2X with what Carl said. Be very careful with the faux wood trim. Have a beer or two after you have the faux trim removed. 

  7. Hi Guys,

    My Jackalopee is also mounted to the back wall inside the storage area with no condensation problems. Also being inside the storage area you don't need to make it water tight. I have an extra hole that is open. No need to plug it up. Also on my back wall I have a 3/4" piece of plywood (that because that's what I had laying around) that I use to mounts things to. 

    Al

  8. 1 hour ago, alan0043 said:

    Hi Bob,

    I think there is some old threads about the subject somewhere on the forum. But I can't find it right now. I even have a picture or to for you on how I did mind but I can't send it because the file is to big. I was trying to send it to by a p/m..Sorry about that. It just won't go.

    I hope this thread will help.

  9. 6 hours ago, trimster said:

    Thoughts on these as the interface from the hdt to trailer solution?

    Bob

    Hi Bob,

    I think there is some old threads about the subject somewhere on the forum. But I can't find it right now. I even have a picture or to for you on how I did mind but I can't send it because the file is to big. I was trying to send it to by a p/m..Sorry about that. It just won't go.

  10. 13 hours ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

    There should be 2 small caps on the forward side.  There are allen wrench screws under the caps.  That gets the back off.

    On the gen 2 trucks there is no screws on the back of the cover like the gen 1 trucks. One of the guys here on the forum posted a video how to take your mirrors apart. Don't hold this on me. If I can remember right, you have to remove the mirror it's self. You need to tilt the top of the mirrors all the way in toward to mirror cover. This should bring out the bottom of the mirror. Then you need to be real careful about pushing the bottom of the mirror upward. There are tabs on the plate or backing that the mirror is mounted to. You can break those tabs. Hopefully someone will post the video. I think Google can help find the video. I hope this can help.

    Al

  11. 19 hours ago, trimster said:

    So, oil report is in and it's right in line with 634k miles on the D13 engine. RigDigs report is clean. ECM dump has some issues but nothing major. I have the Volvo build sheet in hand...so I know what the truck is made of (which is not what they listed in the posting for the truck. Nothing major for me, but a trucker would be pissed I think). Things like the WB. It's really 210 not the listed 240. The rear end is really 3.08 instead of 2.64. Says it has an air slide... don't remember seeing the required stuff on the hitch for the 'air' part. Don't really care because I am having them pull it off. Lists little info about the fuel tanks. They said it does not have a fridge...it does.

    So Monday we head back up to Idaho Falls from Salt Lake, to put eyes on the truck again and give it another road test.

    They have thrown out a price that is hard to walk away from, especially now that we know the truck is pretty solid. The discount off the asking price is way more than enough for me to do stuff like air and fuel filters, replace a bad tire, and a few sensor issues.

    We'll keep you posted and, if we do in fact get the truck, I will post the soap opera of a story that involves getting this rig.

    Here's the truck... https://www.rushtruckcenters.com/truck-sales/truck-inventory/423915-volvo-vnl64t

    Bob

    Hi Bob,

    This is just an idea. See if they are willing to sweeten the deal by throwing in a full service on the truck. If they do, that is one less thing that you have to do. Ask if the fluid and filter has been changed in the transmission. That job is going to cost a few pennies. Can't hurt to ask or negotiate in the deal. Best of luck with the deal.

    Al

  12. On 7/27/2020 at 1:49 PM, Vegas Teacher said:

    What you all had luck with using to reduce engine noise and road noise in the cab of your trucks. In the car stereo world we used dynmat. I was wondering about additional products or products used together with dynmat to make my interior quieter.

    Later Cory Ossana 

    Hi Cory,

    You need to ask yourself a question or too. How much work do I want to do and how much money am I willing to send. That way you can get some idea what your cost could be and if I want to do the work. The best way to do the interior in my opinion is to start with removing the seats. Then you can start with the door panels. Looking for more work, remove the panels in the sleeper. And if you want to tackle a big work, remove the headliner. I think you get the idea. The cost of dynamat is expensive. There is other stuff with a lower price and works just as good. Right now I can't remember the name of the stuff what I used on my truck. It will come to me later. Just trying to give you an idea. 

    Al

    Brain fart is over (it lasted little over an hour). lol. I remember the name of the material I used. It's called Rattletrap. It has 3 X's print on the aluminum surface. You want 80 mil. I bought mind off of Ebay. Good luck with you project. Do a search on the hdt site. I remember some past threads.

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