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shooter51

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About shooter51

  • Rank
    Full Member
  • Birthday 10/28/1951

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Venice Florida
  • Interests
    gunsmith, ex pro drag racer, Retired Navy Chief

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  1. shooter51

    Another poop cannon question?

    OK, I need to trap into the vast amount of experience here. What I have in hand: I have a 50 foot roll of 1 inch clear vinyl hose, Enough poly cam lock fittings to make 3 different lengths of hose with caps and plugs for the fittings on each. The question: If you were going to make 3 different lengths of hose, to cover the most often encountered required length of hose, What would those lengths be? Remember, I only have 50 feet of tubing available and 3 pair male/female connector sets, plus plugs, caps and macerator adapter fittings. More hose and fitting procurement is QED, I think 50 feet should cover most any dump situation I'm likely to encounter, What say the smart pigs? The tubing is chemical grade and I will sanitize, then plug/cap each length of hose for stowage in a tote, along with all the other required parts and pieces to "unwaste" the 5er. The tote(s) will ride in a bed locker with the fuel transfer pump and hose/nozzle, for use with the AUX diesel tanks. (the various hookups will require a bit more setup time, but nothing is exposed to the elements while stowed. What am I missing? Thanks in advance, for the redgineering help. Paul
  2. shooter51

    Portable inverter/generators?

    All right then, My power set up, crude as it is , Is safe enough, in both concept and practice, that the CEO and I can both get older and cranky'er in our relatively safe travel accommodations, with no changes to the method's that might invite madness. Thanks all, for the learned input. Shooter
  3. shooter51

    Portable inverter/generators?

    OK, what about the landing gear jacks and 2 sets of stab jacks in direct earth contact ? Shooter
  4. shooter51

    Portable inverter/generators?

    OK, one simple question. SET up, My Yamaha YM6500DE generator is shock mounted on the flatbed of my Tow vehicle. Normal drill is: I plug in the shore power cord into my RUNNING genset and close the breakers (120 VAC) to power up the 5th wheel for AC and such when boondocking. Shutdown is: Open the breakers, cool down, shut down, stow shore power cable. There is a wing nut terminal on the genset frame marked GROUND. Here comes the question. What is accomplished if I drive a short, ~ 2 foot, ground rod into the dirt and wire it to the ground terminal on the genset., Will it protect my electrical system in the 5'er, or am I just spinning my wheels in the muck of misunderstanding? Thanks, Shooter
  5. shooter51

    Hoping I can get some help with hitch placement measurements

    Hi Chief, My goal was to allow the pin to move from 10 inches or so forward of the axel centerline, to as much as 16 inches behind the axel. I tow several different 5th wheels and goose necks so adjustability and weight balance are imperative. I too have found much easier backing , with a 5'er, with the pin well behind the axel, and better steering and following with the pin forward enough to properly load the steer axel and transfer weight to the drive wheels when road conditions warrant (heavy rain and snow/ice.) The Isuzu NPR has a much smaller turning radius than it's wheelbase would suggest and backs the trailer much like a forklift. (essentially a rear steer like motion) I haven't pulled a 5er yet, but a couple boats and a tag stacker car trailer had pretty good road manners. What I'm looking for in this thread is the minimum clearance between the rear bumper of the truck and the fifth wheel. I assume there is a standard distance, just like the 48 inch table height. I just need to find it and set the hitch pin center accordingly. The 120 inch wheelbase leaves ample room for a genset, an aux fuel tank, tool boxes,a small air compressor, extra pair of "house" batteries, 30 gallon propane tank, as well as a bunch of stuff I probably really don't need to carry... I'm building this rig to drag whatever I hook it to, with confidence and safety. Such are the advantages of that "outside the box" stuff. Paul
  6. shooter51

    Hoping I can get some help with hitch placement measurements

    one more tonight
  7. shooter51

    Hoping I can get some help with hitch placement measurements

    Wow, that was easy. Thanks Chad
  8. shooter51

    Hoping I can get some help with hitch placement measurements

    Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I think the info I need is here. Could I get some receiver pin clamp center to bumper measurements? I'm placing a Reese double oscillating receiver on my Isuzu NPR, I have the table height correct (48" + - 1 ") The rear corners of the flat bed are cut to 45°. I'm looking for the optimum setback (actually forward) for the receiver. I've installed a slider with ~ 30 inches of travel and need to set the forward placement of the pin clamp. I'll resize and post a pic of what I have . Thanks, Paul
  9. shooter51

    Isuzu air ride ?

    I recently scored a steel flatbed ~600 Lbs. when I get the genset, compressor, tool/storage boxes and transfer tank bolted down and covered, most of the annoying bounce issues should be gone. With the pin/gooseneck forward of the axel centerline, the trail weight should improve the tracking and chucking. I'll have to log some more miles to know for sure but, An air ride pin box or receiver would not be out of the question. Adding 800 to 1000 or so Lbs. may improve the bobtail ride enough. Remember, this rig started life as a 157 in W/B box truck with a 8500 Lb. cargo capacity. Thanks, Paul
  10. shooter51

    '86 Holiday Rambler class A questions

    Thanks for the reply's, as it turns out the rig was sold to a guy wanting to put it on a hunting lease. I had just done the math and was about to turn it down, anyway. Thanks again for the input and insight. I think I dodged a bullet. Paul
  11. shooter51

    Isuzu air ride ?

    I agree, air suspension is not always a fix all. In my situation, it might be adjustable enough for the various rig's I tow. I have 4 trailers I tow on a fairly regular basis, from 3500 lbs to 11,000 lbs, with a 4 bay, angle load, horse trailer that shows up occasionally. The 4 legged go go dancers don't seem to care for the ride and my sit bones don't either. I'm old, I want a smoother ride, just not sure how to get it. Thanks, Paul
  12. shooter51

    Isuzu air ride ?

    Well, I finally got my Isuzu NPR, 14.5 K, 120 inch wheelbase, tow rig rolling. I haven't pulled my 26 foot 5'er yet but I have towed a couple of TAG travel trailers and a few boats. Power and acceleration is not race ready (4 cyl turbo diesel) but merges easily (acceleration) stops well, and changes lanes with confidence. I ain't gonna win any pulling contests, but overall, I'm happy with the all around performance. The fly in the ointment is the quality of the ride. Un loaded, (bobtail) at freeway speeds, the bounce, buck and shimmy is memorable, (short wheelbase and sitting right over the steer axel) on all but the smoothest of roads. I had to glue down a foot rest next to the go pedal, because the bounce under my throttle foot, going up thru the gears, quickly gets out of hand. All of her bad habits are much more manageable with a load on. I use a WDH with my 32 foot, enclosed, dragster trailer, (all up loaded ~6800.lbs) It should be MUCH better with the 5er, 'cause I can shift the hitch pin as much as 14 inches forward of the axle centerline. (the 5er is rated at 8600 Lbs. GVW,1600 Lbs., pin weight. but I'll never likely have that much crap in it at one time.) As harsh as the ride is, I've been looking for an air ride conversion. If it was a pickup, up to a Ford F-550, I could get a conversion off the shelf, but, because it's a straight truck, commercial and an import, none of the conversion outfits, I could find, want to play. I found several setups that would work, with very few modifications (like the Reyco-Granning model RD-11-KC and the RD-960-C. ) all refused to even discuss modifications. The R-G setup is a "Z" shaped, forward pivot bar (from the front spring hanger) that clamps to the axel and the air bag is behind the axel. panhard bar, shocks and factory sway bar retained. Neat, clean and bullet proof, I think. (wouldn't be a big deal to replace the panhard bar with a watts link) Am I chasing a well found unicorn again ? I had even considered pulling all the spring leaves, except the bottom one, and mounting a double convoluted bag on top of the axle. Leaving the top overload spring would not be a problem, the way the spring pac is arranged. Even this simple a setup would allow 10 inches, or so, of ride height adjustment, wouldn't that be cool? (I would have to change to longer stroke shock's, but Monro stocks them) Let's bring the collective minds to bear. Am I crazy or just lost sight of the box? (sometimes, I look for reality, in the rear view mirror) Thanks, Paul
  13. shooter51

    '86 Holiday Rambler class A questions

    Thanks very much for the reply. As I spend more time crawling around the rig, I'm surprised by a few things. The shore power hook up is only 30 amp, 2 roof air's, 6.5 Onan genset, but only 30 amp hook up, Strange? The refrigerator is gone, no back story, has hydraulic levelers that work. The 454 was replaced, with a junkyard take out that was new enough to be fuel injected, but the carb and intake manifold was retained, exhaust manifolds look to be later vintage cast steel, not the divided style though. Windshield halves are showing about an inch of white fogging on the lower and outside edges. Is this enough to require replacement? OK, that's enough silly questions for now, Keep them cards and letters coming... Thanks, Paul
  14. shooter51

    '86 Holiday Rambler class A questions

    I was just offered a 33 foot, 1986 Holiday rambler coach, in running, well cared for, condition for a bargin basement price. What should I know before I jump off the cliff? It's gas powered (454 GM/turbo 400) Help me figure out what to do. Thanks, Paul
  15. shooter51

    picking a TV/ cool old truck

    Not at all, too late. I welcome the input. In my research, I found that what I really wanted was something called a "hot shot" system. (BBQ bottle) It's only purpose is as a WOT power adder. I'm told that they can be jetted and adjusted to be used only after the overdrive drops out when climbing long grades and other "I need a bit more power, RIGHT NOW" situations. They are not automatic or full time, as yours is . The operator still has to mash the "big red button" and satisfy the confuser, to get the head slap of power. My local propane guru is gathering the parts to build what I want/need and says he can do it around a $100.00 installed. Still waiting his call...So far, the little 4 banger turbo is doing fine. Thanks for the response Paul
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