Broncohauler

Thanks guys

The answer to this is a question...

 

Would YOU stand behind a manure spreader...?(especially if it was loaded and running...LOL)

 

Edited to say Sorry...somebody else beat me to it before I got this posted...)

Ok you guys got it all over me on that one?

Like carrying gas in a styrofoam cup

We have a JD 3038 with the E-hydro at the campground. Over 1000 hrs on it and the only thing done to it is filter changes and fluids. It always runs, even in VERY cold weather. The E-shift is worth every penny if you are using the loader much. I've used LOTS and lots of tractors and skids in my life. This tractor is as good - in its class - as any I've used. Including Kubota. But ours is old enough not to have DEF on it. Just now buying a JD skid. I have literally thousands of hours on skids and the JD is as good as is out there. For the dollar. I'm not even really a JD "guy", but I can't complain about their reliability. It is important to buy something where you have LOCAL service, though. So that may alter your selection.

Jack thanks your just the one I needed here.

The 3032 and new 3025 use all the same components and frame as your 3038 except horsepower.

Keep in mind tractor engine horse power vs PTO output HP. 3 point implements are rated at PTO out hp. Now if your just blading that's not a problem.

The PTO is only 19hp will this handle a 48-60" brush mower. Very little use on about 5 acres.

Almost all work is with a blade or may build a log splitter if it can handle it.

Nothing wrong with John Deere.

But even John Deere won't stand behind their manure spreaders.

What's the problem there having??

The Deere is winning so far unless someone changes my mind and I do thank everyone for your help.

 

3) dealers in my area 2 of them do repairs.

Kubota only one dealer I not impressed by.

 

Kubota I'm told you pay for Warrenty work up front then get reimbursed.

Deere no out of pocket,'that's big.

Masey we have one dealer for sales and one other for repairs. Not exited about that.

 

Deere made in USA except motor?

Kubota made now in USA don't know how much of it. ?

Masey made in USA now I'm told bought out by Alis chambers ?

 

Mihunda made in India parts hard to get?

 

Branson no local dealers foreign made?

 

Deere just feels better and more comfortable,

The down side but worth it is the new 2017 tractors won't be here till April, but for $ 3k savings over 2016 model that have DPF and egr.

I'll just wait.

If anyone else has input jump in.

Thanks Charlie

For driveway material I had crushed concrete. I would have to work it every couple of months. I got a deal on chipped asphalt and that was the best material. I didn't have to rework it for over 1 1/2 years. No potholes developed. It was great.

I've used both also 3/4 rock. I like chipped asphalt best

The price goes way up over 38hp.

25hp and under means no DPF and I like that,less to go wrong.

What I like about the 3E tractors is the E stands for economy, which means less bells and whistles like cruise control but far less electronics to go wrong.

I'd want all the good stuff if I ran it all day like a lot of you but simple and more reliable is more important for my use.

Check out tractor data com. I have a 2008 Massey that is built by iseki tractor of Japan my last iseki lasted 40 years. For attachments check out woodmaxx.com I have their sb60 snow blower and it's built like the brick out house

Ok thanks

Like all things to do with "property" "storage" "acreage" - thoroughly research, investigate, spreadsheet the exact machine "yer ever gonna need", then go 30% bigger.

Had that in mind thanks while having one still small enough to use around houses

Thanks John

We bought a Masey Ferguson 39 hp 4 wheel drive, 60 in bucket, box blade and brush hog last fall. Haven't used it much. I like it so far.

Jeff C made the comment when I ask a year or so ago to buy the one that you have the most confidence in the dealer.

I paid a little more but followed my gut on dealer preference.

We have a dealer that sells both Deere and Masey I'm going to go see them to do a side by side and drive both thanks.

<<They all offer 0-60 month financing which I normally would pay cash but why not and let my $$$ stay in investments?>>

 

Figure the value of the money (time and interest), subtract that from the asking price, and offer them substantially less. Free interest is rarely free. Offer them $18k and see watch the look on their face. You might be pleasently surprised.

Not a bad idea thanks.

Maybe renting from the different dealers will give you an chance to try out different makes and models of tractors and also "test drive" the dealers. Might make the decision of buying new or used or renting easier to make. We do get so much rain here in SoCal renting might be a better option $$$$ wise.

The only rentals are kubota and I plan to demo a JD

I know our rain is limited and that's why I've waited so many years. But when we get hit it's hard and rentals aren't always available when it happens weekends and the middle of the night.

I look at as when I got a old forklift my loving wife said ok but look side ways at me, but she uses it more than me?

You guys also mention used. I've been looking with in 100 miles of me for about a year,and can't find anything under 10k and don't want a full size skip loader.

The price so far on A brand new

Deere 3025 with loader and bucket also hydros on 3 point

25hp so no DPF with 6 year powertrain and 1- year bumper to bumper that can be up graded to 6 year bumper to bumper for another $1200

Asking price is $19,969 OTD

They all offer 0-60 month financing which I normally would pay cash but why not and let my $$$ stay in investments?

What do you think thanks?

Charlie

So I know must of you have much larger tractors and property that needs that.

Do any one have experience with the smaller units like the

JD 3032 or a kubota 2501?

I will be getting a 60inch Bucket and box. I will also have them put on hydraulics with 2 rams on the 3 point so It can articulate and I can set the camber in our road. Is this a good idea?

How are these compacts with a brush mower say 48-60 inch? I know Mntom you said the JD had problems.

Our local rental yard won't put one on the smaller kubota because people break the shaft some how.

Thanks guys your always a big help.

Chad I have thought a lot about bobcats. In my area they are a lot more expensive then a compact.

My main purpose for the tractor is to grade 1200 feet of dirt road every time it rains. We also have a drainage ditch around the front of our property that needs to be graded after big rain.

And some small work at both my son and daughters houses.

A friend now clears my ditch with a bobcat in trade for biscuits and gravy , But the road is a problem.

Carl your the reason I came here, I know you had some problems and appreciate opinion on parts and dealers.

 

So what I'm getting from all of you is go with the best dealer support which in my area is John Deere we have two of them. I don't get a real good feel from the Kubota dealer or salesman.

All of you here and quite honestly all the salesman said don't get a backhoe just rent a trackhoe for my little use.

Thanks for the input Jim.

I like the 2 pedal on the JD better than the rocker pedal on the K.

The JD fits my 6'4" 235 lb size better also.

Hey guys I hope you don't mind but not HDT related.

I'm looking for a compact tractor for residential use, grading our dirt road and things of that nature.

I could use your opinions as to what you like or don't like.

I'm looking at 3 options now

 

2016 John Deere 3032 has (DP filter) 60 inch loader and

box scraper.

 

2017 John Deere 3025 NO (DPF) 60 inch loader and ganon $3k cheaper

 

 

2016 kubota 2501 NO (DPF) 60 inch loader and ganon

 

The deeres are cheaper than kubota but if later on I want a backhoe it won't work on the John Deere's

I know many of you have these and would like your input

Thanks Charlie

The air ride hitch was already in the works for my pickup as the ride on the concrete highways was horrible. I have not ridden in the 5er, but I suspect the ride behind the Pete is better since it has larger airbags that run at lower pressures and the hitch mounted to the rear of the axle.

 

I never have been one to follow the popular kids just because. I have the skills to usually make things work better. In this case I was lazy in trusting that Lippert had done all the legwork for us.

 

The expense is only one equation to this. I figured both trucks would be covered this way and if I swap out this cheesy Flexair head for the standard we should be good. We'll see how it goes.....this has to be a defect in the design or execution.

I'm not a follower either that's one of the reasons I have the peterbilt and a early bronco. Otherwise I'd have a diesel pusher and a JK with whatever the latest and greatest bolt on parts are?

 

Not sure I understand you here though do you have an air ride hitch mounted to the peterbilt?

If not I strongly recommend getting one after that you should be fine.

Sometimes are best ideas and intentions just don't work out.

And when that happens you can keep throwing money at it or adapting to attempt to make it work or throw in the towel and do like most all others are doing.

 

That said I think you're attempting to make this work with both the semi and your pick up truck.

Maybe would be better to put a standard pin box back on the trailer to work with your pick up and if you haven't already go with the trailer saver or ET on the Peterbilt.

 

Very big expense I understand but do you really need the air ride when using the F4 50?

CC; not doing this any more but when we were, it was with an IH 4400 530E full air, ten spd, a Gearmaster, 3:08 rearset with a GeneMcCall AirGlyder hitch with a Trailaire Pin box and if memory serves about 3400 lbs pin weight from a 38' Mobile Suites.

 

Running both the Trailaire and the Airglyder never once caused me any cyclical bouncing or dampening conflict. I had a Voyager two camera system with one camera mounted on a tall light tiara built behind the Harley barn on our truck looking down at the hitch area and it was a marvel to watch the trailer floating along sedately while the truck was giving our kidneys a beating,

 

You have a triple axle set up which should help mitigate "chucking" but that new design air pin-box looks like the arc of travel of that floating underplate would be about 6" from the pin to the center of the cross pivot bolt. I'm thinking that braking events would cause the trailer to forge ahead with that plate pivoting rearward along with your pivoting head of your truck hitch tilting forward making for some extra fore and aft movement until trailer brakes take charge. Not desirable with front cap so close to Jeep.

 

My other concern would be to keep a very jaundiced eye on your goose neck framework. Long-snout pin-boxes put enormous leverage on framing of heavier pin weight frames.

 

A Go-Pro Camera is going to give you very useful info indeed for future decisions. Mounting a flexible fiberglass stanchion screwed to a good plate magnet at the point duplicating your jeeps furthest rear point and mounting your Go-Pro to the side so it can see the interplay between the trailer and that stanchion while you put your rig through it's paces with curb, parking lot, driveway, transtions etc., might avert a later disaster.

 

PS. mounting the Go-Pro so it can view the gap between the top of your pin-box to underside of trailer cap might just cause you to assess the amount of frame flex going on under there as well. Just to be careful and pre-emptive.

 

Nice build-up and very enjoyable to read about. Good luck.

 

Those are some really good ideas

The thought has crossed my mind to switch back, but it seems like finding a nice TT is just about impossible. I'm figuring on having to purchase one more POS consumer grade RV before we retire and step up to something with any quality built in......assuming there are any manufacturers left that Thor didn't acquire and destroy!

I have said before and I will again.

I wish someone would build a toyhualer that is based more on semi parts. Frame, axles, brakes and tires. BUT at a price a blue collar working man can afford.

I understand we use to be a small group. But you see more and more HDT and MDT trucks every day.

Interesting suggestion! Maybe just a roadtest to create the proper clearance, then come back to the shop for the final prep, cleanup, and paint! If I was planning on keeping the trailer, I probably would consider this...... Thinking we can do without the garage now, so considering a regular shorter 5er.

If your thinking about a new trailer How about a travel trailer instead of a 5th wheel? I have thought about it but haven't found one I like yet. I also still need the garage for the wife's rhino or bronco.