Broncohauler

Eyelet on the landing gear pad is a great idea!

Not  that big of a deal, but I have my legs set so I drop them onto a pad, lower my air bags on both the hitch and truck and then drive out from under. My legs are marked for the perfect height so I don’t need to raise or lower them other them to be level, and are plenty high enough for off and on road travel. 

On 2/25/2020 at 5:47 PM, Big5er said:

Dumb question: Why don't you just mount your charger and hardwire it to the battery posts, just like the starter should be, positive on one battery and negative at the other end? That is a much better connection than those clamps to a battery post.

As far as a charger/maintainer I use a Noco Genius G26000

Not a dumb question at all Phil. 
This charger is actually temporary until I get one specifically for the truck. 
When I decide what charger I want, I’ll  hard wire and mount it in the battery box. 
the posts are more for emergency jump starting without taking off the battery box cover. 

 

Wired in a couple battery jumper posts so now I don’t need to remove the battery box cover to hookup a battery tender or for jump starting. 
So far real happy just need a higher out put tender. 
One thing I did notice though is that for some reason both the main ground cable and positive to the starter are coming from the same battery??

I would think  the negative wire be at the last battery of three in the battery bank?

1 hour ago, Radar274 said:

Great setup...jealous of what you are carrying!  Can't wait..... Still dealing with the white stuff😀

One of the only good things of living in California is we do get to play year round. 😂

7 hours ago, Chad Heiser said:

I’ve always liked your truck.

Thanks Chad, it’s been awhile sense I’ve Posted a picture so needed to try and remember how. 

 

Been awhile, see if I remember how to post pictures for no good reason. 

On 2/19/2020 at 4:50 PM, RandyA said:

What type of "battery tender" you choose will depend on what the draw is on your battery bank when the truck is sitting in addition to the number of batteries you have and the temperatures (both extreme heat and/or cold) you expect to encounter.  Speaking in "general terms" for a truck with 4 batteries you would want to allow about 1 amp per battery from a "smart" charger for periodic boost voltage to achieve desulfation and longer term float charging.  Some of the crew here disconnect the EECM fuse or the ground to the entire battery array during storage which lowers the discharge of the batteries considerably, to the expected "sitting" discharge rate of rate of no more than .3 volts per month.  In that case you might be able to get by with a 1 or 2 amp microprocessor tender if you do not expect extremely low or high temperatures (median on a FLA battery is about 80 degrees F - anything over or under reduces battery efficiency).  Keep in mind a "tender" is not designed to recharge a dead battery and any batteries placed on a tender need to be fully charged beforehand.  While Harbor Freight products often get a bad rap on here they do have a microprocessor controlled 4 amp charger that I have found does an excellent job for a relatively small investment.  It is often on sale for as little as $25.  It has consistently done a good job for me on both AGM and FLA batteries .  This is not a product endorsement, only sharing my experiences - I now own six of these that I use on my tractor, mowers, boats and vehicle batteries.  While I do not have Geico insurance I do like saving money on basically equivalent products over a branded name 😀.

On my Volvo with 4-1000CCA batteries I have a RV converter/charger similar to the one NeverEasy referenced built into the truck.  I keep it plugged in whenever possible since I like to keep the the 120 VAC refrigerator cold.  When shore power is not available I depend on a 50 watt solar panel connected to an inexpensive PWM controller (4 stage microprocessor) to keep my battery charge fresh.

Thanks Randy,

The truck is a 97 Peterbilt with a N14 with 3 batteries. 
No draw other then maybe the radio clock memory. I have the same converter charger on my trailer with great results. But don’t need that complex of the system at this time anyway. 

What  do you think of a “battery tender solar charger” or would it be easier and better to set up a harbor freight solar system with their tender. 

 

I parked the truck next to my trailer which is plugged in all the time it really wouldn’t be a big deal to just plug the truck into the trailer. I just don’t like extension cords running on the ground if I can help it. 
 

Hey guys it’s been a while. 
I’m finally giving in and looking for a
“Battery Tender” for our truck. 

I have the ability to plug one in but solar is also an option to not have wires on the ground leading to an outlet. 
1)What  would you recommend?

2)How many amps?

3) solar or none is better 

4) Best pricing 

 

What battery Tender do you guys like best?

How many Amps?

solar or plug in?

Very cool keep the pictures and is up dated, I'm looking at building one. 

Just a thought but if the device Big5r showed works for winching on, could you leave it strapped to the bike for stability like training wheels while backing down the ramp?? 

Maybe make it wider with better wheels?

broncohauler

 

You must pick up that green machine with the hauler AND show us the pics LOL

 

P.S. Great care on the company truck, your pride shows bright!

I absolutely will and thank you very much for the kind words

I believe JOHN DEERE it will be, thanks guys.

0-60 on the the JD with $2000 rebate and lots of other incentives for being a new tractor.

Most all manufacturers have 0-60 these days but I feel the JD is best for our purpose.

Thanks guys, believe it or not the JD still has the best price because it's a economy model ( no bells and whistles)

We do have a dealer that carries both JD and MF so I'm going to go have a look, but they don't handle service and that's a problem.

Owned Kubota's the last 20 years. Will not say I would not buy green. But would be tough after all the trouble free years with the Orange Tractors. Mine has never been in for any work. M4700. Our other tractor M9540 Shuttle Shift only one time. And it was our fault not Kubota's fault. Forgot Brother in law owns a Kubota 22 something with loader and all. And he has put over 5000 trouble free hours on it also.

All these have loaders on them. Mine 50HP will lift 2000 lbs but that's about it. The 95Hp around the same, I have some big hunks of soft lead. And the piece that's 2200 lbs the 95Hp will pick it up and bring it up the hill. But it has to be in 4x4 to pull it off. Bu were talking about 5ftx 4ft piece of lead. The other 24 ton's I have to cut into small pieces to move. As smallest is 3300 lbs others are 4200 each.

Thanks Pete K

I do wish the loader was "bigger". But we just got a skid (again JD) to solve that. The good thing about the JD is that there is 0% financing on it, so "capital reserve" is pretty compelling from a business perspective. But that is no reason to buy a machine The skid will lift higher, and more weight. It can dump into a 10' side truck...or so they say....

 

The plastic fenders are fine in the application we put the tractor to. It works hard, but on a limited number of tasks in a campground. Frankly, I don't know how we could live without it. But it only does loader and scraper work - no grass cutting. I do notice a deficit of PTO power in some loading applications. You can push into a pile and not be able to lift/rotate when you want to. But that is a minor complaint and it is only when you are pushing the limits of the tractor. Not for routine work.

 

If you intend to fork a lot of material be VERY sure on the weights. That tractor does fine on lighter stuff, but it will not fork a pallet of bricks. It is simply too small.

I do have a 3000lb forklift that doesn't work off-road very well I know this won't lift anything close to that but hopped for better than you and others have claimed.

 

Guess I just need to remember I'm looking at economy compact tractors And that's what you get.

The Kubota appears to be a lot better tractor, but as you say. I

If it's not comfortable than every job is going to be just that a job.

What loader is on that machine? Can you spec into a 160 series? I know they could put three different types on mine.

I have speced a D160

Totally agree jack.

And you said earlier that you have a JD 3038, and that's the same frame and loader, so if its working for you then I should be ok.

Do you have the plastic rear fenders, any problem with them over time? Do you wish the loader would reach higher or out farther?

I have a JD 3046R with a 72" bucket and skid steer quick attach instead of the JD attachment set ups.

 

My loader has high and low pressure at the front.

 

I love it. The AC and radio is very nice.

 

Go with the best support you can get.

 

Mine was "tippy" until I did 600lbs of concrete in the weight bucket, loaded the rear tires and put in 4" wheel spacers in the rear, with the tires flipped out.

 

I went JD as I get better support there, 0% interest (was going to pay cash) even though I know the owner of the local Kubota dealer.

I looked at a 3046R today. I really like it but way out of my price range thanks

Thanks again guys.

Went down today and drove both the JD 3032

( it will be the same as 3025 when it comes in)and the Kubota L2501.

The Kubota seems more heavy duty and the bucket raises higher with more reach.

But I can't stand the treadle pedal for forward and reverse. My 6'4" 235lb body with size 12 boot didn't fit well.

My legs are just to long. The controls also don't feel comfortable ether.

 

The JD operator area is great and fits me well.

BUT the JD only has a 2speed trans (k has 3)

The loader arms appeared lighter duty,

 

So now to decide

JD that drives great with better price or

Kubota that's not comfortable but built stronger?

Scary is the thought of a mower or bush hog spinning backwards and loosening up the blade hardware with the blade tip speeds approaching 200 MPH and becoming projectiles.

Like back in my tow truck days right out of high school.

I towed a MGB with knock off wheels backwards, a ya wheel came off luckily at low speed.

Lesson learned.

Never heard of a reverse on the pto. Imagine pulling a manure spreader with the pto in reverse.

That would be bad?

Makes sense guys thanks

I have a '06 B3030 with cab. Bought it used, 8ys old at the time but only 300 hrs and garage kept and serviced annually by the dealer. Had to go about 150 miles for but it has been well worth it. So it might pay off to broaden your search.

 

As for the rocker go peddle I have learned to really like it. Very handy when spreading out material. I also have a mid mount finishing mower deck. When mowing it is like being on a zero spin mower.

 

As for the backhoe, yes it is cheaper to rent. I have a Woods BH with 8' reach and 1 for wide bucket. I use it a lot. It has been a good investment. They are hard to find used so I suspect that I would have no problems selling the BH attachment quickly if I found I needed/wanted to get rid of it.

 

I also have a chipper for tree branches. Will take material up to 6"x8". It says it can feed at a speed of 72' per minute. Have no desire to feed at that speed. It is suppose to work with a PTO hp rating as low as 18hp. I have 24hp at PTO and have been impressed with the chipper. Very handy if you got a lot of trees and can't burn brush.

 

I was not looking for a tractor with a cab but love having the cab and A/C. If you have to get on the tractor and work on something in bad weather the cab will pay for itself. Also if on it it all day it makes a big difference. I am in Texas and mowing in the middle of summer is not a issue now. When mowing there is no choking on dust. Same when grading dry material.

 

My neighbor has a newer (than mine) JD. His is a little bit bigger (sorry don't know the model) and my Kubota will out lift it. The K has a much bigger pump since it is also used for making the the tractor move. The down side is the pump goes out the tractor is not moving.

 

My biggest dislikes is the PTO is hydraulically driven. So no reverse. Twice I have sunk the auger on the post hole digger deep in the clay. With no reverse I had to put the BH on and dig the auger out. It could also use a bigger A/C. My understanding is this has been resolved in newer units. Cheap and Kubota parts are never found in the same sentence. My local dealers also never have the part I need in stock. So I have learned to call before driving over. Up side is the part never seems to be more than 24 to 72 hours away. But still sucks when you are in the middle of something and you are stopped cold when you have to wait on a part.

 

I have been extremely pleased with my Kubota. Have put over 500 hours on it since I bought it almost 3 years ago now. It takes a beating and comes back for more.

Lot of good info especially about the post hole digger

thank you.

My Kubota B7200 is 18hp and 14hp at the PTO. I have a 60" bush hog, 60" pull behind finish mower, and box blade. No trouble with operating any of them. Have had the bush hog in 48" overgrowth on our hunting lease and it did just fine. Just went slow.

Awesome I knew you guys would have my answers thanks