Tulecreeper
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Posts posted by Tulecreeper
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22 hours ago, Kirk W said:
While I have never been to that park, you can find reviews on it and also some pictures by visiting RV Life Campground Reviews so I'd give that a look.
Thanks a bunch!
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On 3/24/2023 at 7:32 AM, oldjohnt said:
DITTO X2 Good neighbor Ray, "Most" 50 Amp RV's TYPICALLY use a 125/250 Volt 50 Amp NEMA 14-50P Plug, while I've seen 120/240 Gensets that have a 125/250 Volt 30 Amp L14-30R Receptacle. If you can't buy a factory dogbone adapter, its so EZPZ to make one using 4 Conductor Cord with a Female NEMA 14-50R Receptacle (RV plugs to it) on one end and a Male NEMA L14-30P Plug (plugs into genset) on the other......If the genset has the capacity such is an easy way to use it to power up a 50 Amp RV using ONLY an adapter, just remember you only have 30 Amps per leg (subject to genset capacity) instead of 50 at an RV park.
John T
Yeah, I fabricated a pigtail for my dryer to run from my house generator's 14-30R receptacle.
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14 hours ago, Ray,IN said:
My reason for saying that was, he is trying to eliminate using any adapter.
Tullecreeper, I'm presently looking at this gesnet: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pulsar-Products-GD400BN-4000W-Portable-super-quiet-Dual-Fuel-Parallel-Capability-CARB-Compliant-Inverter-Generator-ultra-lightweight-RV-Ready-4000-Wa/1183754793
It is actually a 3,000W continuous use model, that 4,000w is surge. It weighs less than 60lbs.
True, but I've come to realize I'm going to have to use an adapter between the 50A RV plug and the 14-30R generator recetacle anyway.
That's a nice genny, but a wee bit too small. Thanks for the link, though. I'll look at Pulsar now. also.
I did find that Ford makes a generator, too. Interesting what you find when researching things.
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37 minutes ago, hemsteadc said:
I'm just happy when posters return and participate. So many times they ask, and are never heard from again.
Thank you. Yes, I've seen that also. It leaves those of us trying help hanging out there in the wind wondering if our advice was any good.
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I've tried to find a forum that has questions specifically about RV parks with no luck. I apologize if I missed it.
Anyone stay at Sonoran Desert for an extended visit? They have monthly rates, and they have sent me several forms that explain the rules, etc., but I would like to know if: #1- It is a decent place to stay. We're not looking for many amenities other than a laundry room - and preferably not shoulder-to-shoulder neighbors; and, #2- Can you pay for multiple months at a time - like 6 or 7 months at a time? I've emailed them, but it takes days for them to respond so I figured I would ask here, too.
Thanks... -
1 hour ago, Ray,IN said:
I know of no RV with a 4-prong locking plug. Such a genset will require an adapter to an RV plug.
You are correct.
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30 minutes ago, Kirk W said:
Answering questions and helping folks is what we are all about so please don't hesitate if you have more questions. We were all helped by others when we were new. It is the theme of the Escapee organization.
Oh, I'll have another one next week. Everyone can take a breath now.
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43 minutes ago, oldjohnt said:
I agree with Hems answer, in addition:
1) UNLIKE a standard genset, an Inverter does NOT depend on the engines RPM to arrive at 60 HZ AC power output, it provides ELECTRONIC 60 HZ 120 VAC so Frequency isn't depending on engine RPM. IE an Inverter provides more stable frequency...
2) Similar to Hems, when you're drawing low power, the engine can slow down, be more quiet, using less fuel.
3) When a big load comes on line an Inverter maintains 60 HZ while a standard may drop its frequency momentarily due to the RPM dragging down.
NOTE Sure an Inverter has advantages butttttttttt they cost much more and Ive got by 50 years with Onan, Generac, Kohler, Cummis and Off Brand standard gensets with NEVER any problems operating so called sensitive electronics. Many low power elec devices use their own built in AC to lower voltage DC conversion circuits and minor AC power problems dont really affect them all that much.......
A standard true 120/240, 4000 or more watts, with a 3 Pole 4 Wire Grounding 120/240
Receptacle (30 or 50 Amps) should run BOTH AC's no problem and likely NOT harm your electronic devices ??? YOUR MONEY YOUR CHOICE NONE OF OURS.
Again, its my OPINION Yamaha and Honda or Cummins Onan (what I own) are good brands (cost most) while Ive heard good about Champion and Predator etc etc . I suggest you purchase from a local established vendor like Home Depot or Lowes or ACE or Menards INSTEAD OF some unheard of brands sold on Amazon or E Bay JUST TRY AND GET WARRANTY OR REPAIRS if you buy one there GOOD LUCK with that lol PS You Tube has hundreds of genset reviews and they are all right, think so lol
John T NOT a generator expert, see what else any here have to say regarding your concerns
Yay! You and all the others have pretty much answered all the questions I had about this issue. Which I'm sure you're all quite happy about because I'll get out of your hair now.
I want to thank everyone for their input. Happy trails, safe driving, and we will see y'all on the flip-flop!
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13 minutes ago, hemsteadc said:
They're quieter, and in Eco mode use less fuel.
Quiet is always good. Thanks, I'll have to check that difference out between the several of both kinds I have found.
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50 minutes ago, oldjohnt said:
You're most welcome, and thank YOU for the kind words.
IT APPEARS YOU MAY NEED A COURSE CORRECTION FOR YOUR UNDERSTANDING You may NOT be as wrong as you think !!!!!!!!!
NOTE a NEMA L14-30R is a 125/250 Volt rated Three Pole Four Wire Grounding Receptacle provided the source its connected ???? to IT CAN PROVIDE TWOOOOOOOOOOOO LEGS OF 120 (one for AC1 other AC2 just like a 50 Amp RV Park Pedestal just not as many amps per leg) IE it can work and does not necessarily defeat the purpose......You are correct it "can only handle 30 amps" HOWEVER thats two separate legs of 30 amps EACH provided the genset has such capacity ??? Its just NOT the capacity of a 50 Amp RV pedestal that has two legs but 50 Amps each
A genset that's true 120/240 (two legs of 120, each 180 out of phase with the other) that uses a L14-30R Receptacle can likely power BOTH your RV AC's, as each only draws maybe 10 to 16 Amps yet you have 30 available on EACH leg...
CAUTION NOTE the Amazon link Kirk was so kind to post above does NOT appear to be a 120/240 (120 leg only) yet it may well be fine if that suits your needs ONLY YOU CAN DECIDE THAT Im NOT commenting whatsoever on the quality or suitability of the genset link provided ONLY saying its NOT 120/240
SUMMARY iffffffffff you want to run TWO AC's with a single genset,,,,,,,,,,,, And be configured the same as an RV Park Power Pedestal with true 120/240 that has TWO legs of 120, one for each AC, each 180 out of phase with the other,,,,,,,,,,,,,You're probably looking at a minimum of 4000 watts maybe as large as 6000 or more (see whats out there),,,,,,,,,,And possibly equipped with a L14-30R 3 Pole 4 Wire Grounding Receptacle, or it may have other combinations, but a single would be much easier even if you need a 30 to 50 adapter to plug the RV into. I still recommend a Soft Start just in case your genset may be marginally sized, likely fine without if its a bigger unit. I still recommend an Inverter Generator
RECOMENDATIONS: Im hesitant to recommend any certain brand let others do that. I WILL however advise you to look for A TRUE 120/240 genset,,,,,,,,,,At least 4000 Watts but it may take a 6000 or more to suit all your needs,,,,,,,,,,,,If it has the wattage capacity and is equipped with a L14-30R (in addition to other receptacles) that would be soooooooo easy to plug in a 50 Amp RV with only a single adapter (home made or manufactured). There remain LOTS of other options out there but Ive covered enough for now
Thanks again Tule, great questions and good follow ups, Im glad to help, God Bless you and everyone here, good bunch of gents all polite and willing to help out yayyyyyyyyyy lol I trust Ive explained your technical requirements now you and/or others need to decide on what make n model I dont like to make other peoples decisions .......
John T Retired EE and 50 year RV owner
I have found several in the 4000W-5000W (working wattage) range that are 120/240 generators with the 14-30R outlet. Not all of them are inverter-types, though. So, other than cleaner electrical power for sensitive electronics what benefit does an inverter-type have over a standard generator? I mean, everything being relatively equal - wattage, weight, run time - why would I pay 50% to 80% more for an inverter that does the same thing? It's not always true, but inverter generators commonly cost quite a bit more than the others. The stand-by generator I have for my house is not an inverter-type and it has done the job admirably for almost 10 years.
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1 hour ago, oldjohnt said:
Tule, great question here's one retired electrical engineers response:
1) Its not so much ONLY how big a genset needs to be for running two typical rooftop AC's,, IT HAS TO BE BIG ENOUGH TO START A SECOND AC WHEN THE FIRST IS RUNNING as the initial current surge when starting a compressor may be 3 to 6 times its normal running current !!!! The advertised CONTINUOUS POWER on Gensets isn't the same as SURGE RATING and when starting there is an initial much higher temporary surge current !!!!!!
SUGGESTION add a Soft Start on BOTH AC units
2) If the full load running current on BOTH AC's was for an example in the 24 to 25 Amp Range AND BOTH HAD SOFT START to lower start up current surge (and no other loads running) as small as a 3500 to 3800 Watt Genset may possibly ?? get you by while Id prefer larger, maybe 4000 or more watts.
3) Speaking of adapters, realize a 50 amp RV with two AC's and a 3 Pole 4 Wire Grounding NEMA 14-50P Plug,, likely has one AC running on one leg L1 of 120 VAC and the other on the other leg L2 of 120 VAC. ALSO L1 is likely 180 out of phase with L2 so Neutral currents balance each other out...
SUGGESTION if you want plugging into the genset to be the same as a 50 Amp RV pedestal NO ADAPTERS NEEDED the Genset needs to be a full true 120/240 VAC Single Phase Three Wire with a NEMA 14-50R Receptacle (same as 50 Amp RV pedestal power)
CAUTION if you use some ?? sort 30 Amp adapters, make sure if you're running two AC's the Neutral conductor isnt over loaded !!! NOTE a 30 Amp 3 Pole 4 Wire Grounding Plug or receptacle, same as 50 amp, can (subject to source configuration and wiring) use two legs of 120 VAC out of phase with each other in which case Neutrals cancel each other, no problem.
BOTTOM LINE SUGGESTIONS
If available and you want to be able to use the genset same as RV park pedestal and run two AC's with no adapters or phase or overloaded Neutral concerns GET A TRUE 120/240 VOLT SINGLE PHASE THREE WIRE GENSET (has two legs of 120 each 180 out of phase with other) WITH A NEMA 14-50R 3 Pole 4 Wire Grounding Receptacle (same as RV pedestal)
HOWEVER sure proper and adequate adapters or other plugs and receptacles can be used provided configured and wired correctly, AND PROVIDED NEUTRAL CONDUCTORS ARENT OVERLOADED.
I have a Cummins Onan Genset that's great, but believe Yamaha and Honda are good quality brands, some are well satisfied with Predator or Champion THIS IS YOUR CHOICE
I recommend an absolute minimum of 3500 Watts (if full true 120/240 L1 180 out of phase with L2) BUT ACTUALY PREFER BIGGER, say 4000 or more Watts
I recommend a Soft Start on both AC's
Best wishes, do your homework, choose wisely and post back any further questions..Im sure I missed some things so hopefully the other fine sparky gents can add more to this......
John T Live in the RV dry camped at Juniper Springs Florida
John, thanks...that's a lot of information. I'm really good at home wiring, but the generator thing is a different ballgame. I pretty much have most of that in mind, but you did straighten me out on the plug/receptacle issue. I was wrong-thinking that I need a genny with an L14-30R locking outlet, but now I realize that this would just defeat the purpose of having a true 120/240 generator as the 14-30R can only handle 30 amps, so I would need one with a 14-50R receptacle and I've never seen a generator (at least a portable one) with a 14-50R receptacle. So I guess I'm back to finding one with the 14-30R 4-pin locking outlet and a dogbone adapter for the 50R plug on the RV.
I guess I'm going to have to go with my original idea of a 4000W-4500W genny with a 14-30R receptacle, add a soft-start to each A/C unit, and hope I don't find myself in the position of having both compressors kick on simultaneously very often.
So, I'm still looking for suggestions/recommendations for a generator that fits that criteria, and weighs in at <120#'s. And while I won't say that cost is not a consideration, I'm willing to pay more for the convenience/weight/watts and not have to worry in the future.
Thanks, again...great advice! Much appreciated...
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19 minutes ago, hemsteadc said:
Lots of folks ask about running air with generators, but I've found very few actually do it.
This is true.
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3 hours ago, lappir said:
It's a WGen9500DF
9500 Watts Running on Gasoline with peak of 12500 Watts
8500 Watts on Propane with peak of 11200 Watts
Was going from memory on previous post. This is from the book.
Rod
Thank you. At 211-pounds, it's almost twice the weight I'm looking for.
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13 hours ago, Will B. said:
If you're worried about the air conditioners, add AC Soft Starts to them, then you never have to worry about that aspect.
We have a big ol' Momentum (with 3 AC's, not that we ever run all three). With our 400 amp-hours of lithium batteries, our inbuilt Onan 5500 does a good job of charging us up in a couple of hours.
That's the plan, also.
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23 minutes ago, lappir said:
I bought a Westinghouse this winter. The smallest one that has 120/240 Volt 50 amp plug on it. It's a dual fuel and I think will work fine this summer with my Mini Split if I need it. My plan was to only run on propane unless I knew it would be running for along time. Found out that won't work at 12 degrees.
Didn't plan on being in such cold weather this spring, but you know what happens. The unit started up and ran fine for about 30 minutes on propane and then it would die. I got in at 10 pm so I restarted it a couple times overnight and then got some gasoline to put in it. Solved the problem. Ran fine for a few hours powering the Mini Split making heat and 3 resistance electric heaters. I think the max is 9500 on propane and 12000 with gas. Not sure it the cold affected the ability of a 1/2 full 20lb propane tank to supply enough gas or not. I'll try it out again the next time it gets cold, but will have a full tank and see how long it will run.
The unit is not the quietest, but my 2 Honda 2000's won't generate the 240 volts I need. They certainly are much more quiet.
Rod
What model is your Westinghouse with the 50 amp outlet?
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46 minutes ago, rpsinc said:
Champion has been my go to brand. Found them to be reliable and long lasting while less expensive than Honda or Yamaha. Parts are available in California from their warehouse if needed.
I like Champion. I've been looking them.
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52 minutes ago, Kirk W said:
Amazon link works for me. Try again?
That one works...thanks. Nice genny...doesn't have the 4-prong outlet, though.
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8 minutes ago, Kirk W said:
We owned a class A with 2 air conditioners and it had a built-in Onan 4.5Kw generator that was always sufficient for our needs, even with 2 air conditioners running and a microwave in use. The front one was 15000 BTU and the rear was 13500 BTU and the microwave was 1200 watts. The larger a/c would typically draw about 13a and the front was about 10a with the microwave probably close to 12a. If all 3 had ever started at the exact same time it might have been too much but the compressors cycle on and off so if only the blower is actually running an a/c is probably drawing around 5-6a. An inverter/generator is rated in surg current and typically has a constant current capacity that is 15-20% less than rated. Amazon has a 4500 peak, 3800 continuous inverter generator that weighs 92#. You might want to consider 2 smaller generators that weigh less but that can be run in parallel to supply the needed power. Doing that would allow you to use only 1 generator if you do not need to run the air conditioners. The other question is, how much will you be using the RV in situations where you don't have shore power but need both air conditioners?
Thank you, Kirk. That is exactly my thought. While I really don't have a problem with 2 generators in parallel, I'm kind of leaning towards having to deal with only one. I would also like it to have the 4-prong, L14-30R locking connector so I'm not dealing with a dogbone adapter. And I would not see many situations without shore power and the need for both A/C's. Your link above is not clickable.
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I know quite a bit about generators - I have two, one for power tools, and one that runs the house through an emergency transfer switch when there is a power outage. What I don't know about are inverter generators.
I'm thinking that even with a 50A service in my RV, a 4000W - 4500W (33 amps - 38 amps) generator should be acceptable. Even with two A/C's running, the odds of both compressors coming on at exactly the same time are slim. So, I'm looking for suggestions for that size genny that weighs as little as possible...say no more than 120-pounds. I don't have a 25-year-old back anymore. And again, thanks a bunch for the info! -
18 hours ago, sandsys said:
Fulltimers insurance is important. Some insurers will cover your trailer but not include the liability part that a full timer needs.
Linda
Thank you. Yes, someone else mentioned that I need to make sure the policy has "fulltimers liability".
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25 minutes ago, Kirk W said:
You need to have coverage that is specific to fulltimers as most insurance for RVs leaves much to be desired. Try several of these agencies.
Very much appreciated, Kirk.
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Not medical insurance, coverage for your RV...like home owners insurance, but for a trailer. I spoke with my State Farm agent yesterday, and she said it's a state-by-state thing. We're currently in AR and State Farm will not cover you if you live full-time in your RV in this state, but sometime in the coming year we're selling our home/property here and heading to AZ where we're going to be full-timing it. As in, no home base.
Anybody know if State Farm covers you there, or another reputable insurance company that will? Thanks a bunch.
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You need to do a couple of things. First, you need to find your trailer's GVWR - the maximum weight your truck can tow - which is your trailer's dry weight plus its cargo carrying capacity (CCC). Very easy to find on the trailer mfg website.
Now, not so easy to find, get on Ford's website and do a search for their towing capacity chart for all their makes and models. On that chart you will need to find the column with your truck's engine, transmission, axle ratio, bed length, and whether or not you have a tow package for your model. That will tell you how much your particular truck can tow.
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13 minutes ago, Kirk W said:
I'll add a welcome and an endorsement of this suggestion. There are parks in Casa Grande and also in Benson and in Yuma that you can get a permanent lot in for very reasonable prices.
Thank you very much, Kirk! A permanent lot sounds like a good thing. We're pretty simple in our needs...RV park-wise. A 50A hook-up in a park with a laundry room is good enough. Heck, even a laundry room within a 20-minute drive would probably suffice. Don't need a pool, a clubhouse, a tennis court, or any other amenities, in an out-of-the-way place with minimal neighbors. Kind of like permanently camping, with full hook-ups.
Sonoran Desert RV Park, Gila Bend
in General RV Information
Posted
Thank you. When I look them up on Google Maps, among all the pictures that have been posted there are several with KOA signs. Is this a KOA affiliated park?