Zman65

13 hours ago, fpmtngal said:

 

In my opinion, I wouldn’t tow a trailer as long and as heavy as yours without some sort of WDH.  But that’s me, and that’s in general.  But then, I use a WDH to tow a 5500 lb., 21 foot travel trailer with a 1 ton truck - it’s easy to use so why not?  My rig is level without the hitch engaged and I have so much cargo capacity that I’m not too worried, but I think a rig just tows better with the hitch hooked up (as well as having less chance of sway).

The whole purpose of a WDH is to spread the weight around so you don’t overload the back axle and have too little weight on the front axle.  I weighed the rig when I was towing with the F150 and the hitch not adjusted right, it was 50 lbs overweight on the back axle.  I adjusted the Andersen and it moved 90 lbs off the back - much of it to the front axle (which had been unloaded too much) and the trailer axles - a better distribution of weight.

So yes, I think your rig could benefit from an Andersen hitch.

Thx again. I think I will get the 3394. Great if it helps but cant hurt. Thx all

Thanks for info   So my tongue weight is 1080 and trailer weight 8400. Hitch rated to 2k.  In your opinion will I Benefit from an Anderson ?

6 hours ago, mptjelgin said:

I have seen receivers listed with two capacities (with and w/o WHD) but on my Ford F-350 there is a placard next to the receiver that lists 15,000 pounds both with and without WDH.  I have a 2.5" receiver, and some of the one-tons come with a 3" receiver that is rated higher.

So it obviously varies by make and model.  I know that F-150's have a 2" receiver and a higher limit with WDH, probably because of the low rear axle rating. 

Check your receiver and see if there is a decal or if the capacities are stamped into the receiver itself. I recall that my previous truck had the capacities actually stamped into the body of the receiver. 

So I just looked. It doesn’t distinguish between wdh and without but as is sticker shows rated up to 2k TW 

Thank you!   Frame is 6” and ball 2 5/16.  
 

do you have Anderson and if so like it?

thx 

I did just look in truck manual and under weight distribution section, it showed the following

Vehicle Series Trailer Weight Weight-Distributing Hitch Usage Hitch Distribution

1500 Up to 3 175 kg (7,000 lb) Not Required 50% 1500 Over 3 175 kg (7,000 lb) Required 50% 2500/3500 Up to 9 080 kg (20,000 lb) Not Required 25%

As mentioned, I have the 2500. That is some crazy weight that they say WDH not needed. 

I will see if I can find hitch ratings.

Where could I find this info?

10 hours ago, Kirk W said:

It isn't unusual for the smaller trailers but would be for something as long as his. With a trailer that long, he probably should use one unless there is some valid reason not to do so. 

I think you are right no matter what my weights come back at. I did that research as well and would like to go Anderson but trying to figure out which model. I called a couple times and just get answering machine. My trailer loaded is 8400. My tongue weight is 1020. Anyone have experience with the Anderson. Tow vehicle is a 2020 Chev 2500hd Z71 package (extra rear shock) with the duramax diesel.

2 hours ago, sandsys said:

You implied you left your black tank valve open. That is NOT a good idea. It leaves solids in the tank which can create the dreaded mountain and cause the smell. The only way to get rid of that is to add lots of water and let it sit as long as you can before flushing. Repeat that process until all the solids dissolve and the accompanying smell goes away. Always leave your black tank valve closed until the tank is at least half full so as to get a good flow when you dump.

Linda Sand

Hi Linda. 
I thought I indicated we kept closed until time to leave/washout but if not that is what we have done. 
 

thank you all for help. Sounds like main culprit could be exhaust fan running.  Next time we will keep it off. 
 

thx again 

Hi All,

We just finished our 4th weekend adventure so still very new to this. On this past trip we stayed 3 nights and toward the end when we would flush the toilet and an unpleasant smell  came from the black tank. I realize why there is a smell but is there anything that can be added to keep smell down until next clean-out at dump site? We do put the additive in after clean out and have no problems when RV not in use. We were told it is best to keep dump valve closed until ready to do clean out instead of leaving it open.

Thx for any tips and again excuse the question I didn't want to ask 😮

Okay, thanks. I will work on getting the weights

thx

Thanks

Here is pic of T/TT. fully loaded ready to go.

Hello All,

I have a 3/4 ton truck and a 34" TT. When connected together, both are level with no WDH. I have been on a few adventures within the state and it seems like all is well. I do use a anti sway bar. Is there any reason I would need a WDH even though level and ride seems smooth?

thx

Good idea. thx Kirk

Thanks Kirk. I called and they just said there are 2"x2" 's behind wall and to find those. I will see what I can find with a stud finder.

Hi all.

My wife would like a flat screen TV on the wall in bedroom. There is spot for as far as cable outlet and power but I cant find any info on what kind or bracket I should use. The wall seems thin. Is there a particular type bracket that I should use. The TV will likely just be a 26" or so.

thx

Thank you. I am now on 30 hours of fridge without alarms.  Hoping with all the suggestions and help from everyone here we may have this resolved .

Keeping fingers crossed. We are scheduled to head out Tuesday morning for a short scalloping trip in west central Florida,

thank you all. 

12 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

Those standard battery level indications are one of the more useless things to be found in an RV. They do not actually measure battery condition, but only give a rough idea of the voltage at the location of the meter. You can tell just a little less by turning on a light to see how bright it is. 

 

Thx. I have a friend coming over later with a load tester. Will see how health of battery is

So, the service department actually called me a bit ago. He said to remove fridge light cover and unplug light. This somehow contacts are triggering close or something. I guess I will try when I get home.  I rather unplug the alarm speaker!! lol

Argh.  Guess I spoke too soon. I went back out and checked. Fridge still working but now it is beeping. Shore and battery power connected. Dont have a load tester but battery monitoring switch show batt is full.

Okay. So only thing left is why did it beep at campground and was connected to shore power and battery and switch was on.  thanks again all for helping this newbie

Okay. The dealer I bought from said I should turn battery power off by the disconnect switch installed when not in use. So when I plugged the 120 in yesterday and it started beeping could that be because I had the disconnect switch off?

They provided a "rv course" prior to delivery but really didnt cover any of this or some other vital stuff

thx

Ok thanks, makes sense. So it primarily uses the battery but if batt fails or drains it will switch to converter?

Thanks. Is it possible that even though plugged into shore power, the fridge is using the battery to run? thx again

Yes, I was plugged into shore power.

Yesterday afternoon I plugged 110 to the rv and turned on fridge. It beeped right away and then after a couple off and on's it stopped. I checked this morning and fridge is cold. Will let it run for a day or so and see if it starts beeping again. The whole thing is a bit puzzling

Newbie here but not new to pellet grills. After a few years of this and that, I have found Rec Tec grills to be the best bang for buck. The 340 model is what I bought for camping and it collapses down to 24" for traveling. I have two other rec tecs at house. They just work great, built well and second to none in customer service.

Whatever you get, enjoy and have fun.