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DG N. AL

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Posts posted by DG N. AL

  1. I am looking for some spoked rims for a 2015 Smart (3-hole).  I have steel rims with hub caps, but I have to remove the hub caps to tie the Smart down on the truck.  I would like to get some spoked cast rims.   Does anyone know of a source or have some spare rims sitting around?

  2. 2 hours ago, mike5511 said:

    If you are not on the Smart Car Forums and Smart Car Facebook pages, now would be a good time to join them. See wheels and parts and ideas all the time on those pages. They are pretty active.

    I am on a couple of the forums.  The "For Sale" one that I am on is dominated by the admins.  They list items for sale, but will not give locations or prices.  They reply to all inquiries with "direct message me".  I don't know that I trust someone who will not give their location or price in an ad.

  3. On 7/17/2023 at 7:19 AM, SuiteSuccess said:

    I’m not going to help with any advice but will definitely sympathize with you.  When my ECM went out I got all kinds of funky codes and communication errors.  It took a shop with a computer and $6k to get it running.  I know that is depressing but as rickeieio says “We pay to play”.  BTW did you find a suitable campground for longer term?

    Well, I guess I got off lucky.  I just had to replace the engine ECM in my 2012 D13.  It cost $450 to have it towed to Volvo and $5,000 for them to replace the ECM and a couple of other parts.

  4. I have a Victron 12/12 30 amp charger on my fifth wheel.  I have 4 lithium batteries.  Lithium needs a higher charging voltage than lead acid.  The Victron steps up the voltage so the lithium batteries reach full charge.  I have  4 gauge wires running from the truck batteries to the hitch on the truck.  They run thru a relay that is switched in the cab.  I also have a residential fridge and my batteries stay 98% or better on long travel days.  The Victron has adjustable charging profiles that can be set for the battery type.

  5. On 1/20/2023 at 8:38 AM, rickeieio said:

    After we leave Bandera, we'll eventually get to Summerdale, AL, where we'll meet up with friends.

    Hey Rick,  

    Any idea when you might get to AL?  We were planning a trip to a COE camp in in central or south AL some time in February.  It all depends on farming.  You know how that goes.  It might be where we could meet up with you.

  6. On 12/18/2022 at 9:09 AM, ms60ocb said:

    What bothers me is the price difference, Just yesterday in LA or eastern Texas I saw $2 difference between gas and diesel, $1.30 was common .

    Clay

     

    I have a fleet card (TSD) and I see discounts from the pump price of as much as a $1 a gallon.  Fleets are not paying those inflated pump prices.  Truck stops are making money on diesel from the little guys....

  7. Just a follow up.  After asking 3 Volvo techs one finally showed me where the dash "Auxiliary Switch" wiring terminates.  There are 3 single pole Metripak 280 series plugs on the firewall under the steering column.  These are your connection points for the 3 "Aux" switches that are on the dash.

    Aux switch (Small).jpg

  8. 4 hours ago, Sculptor said:

    So idk what your switch connections look like.  IF you have loose wires, maybe you can use them.  You said you can’t find any connection points, so there are no wires in the vicinity of the aux switches, or no loose unused connections anywhere behind the dash?

    tw9bdLWl.jpg

    I found one or 2 of these were live when the key is on.  One was connected to The 12 volt outlet, one was live, one was dead.  I took a photo of these connectors but it was two or three years ago.  I wanted to find a matching connector for some reason.  Might have been because some are live and usable.

     

    ITV9cxpl.jpg

    After further investigation, I found connectors like you have pictured that went to the aux switches.  But all of these connectors were full.  The wires are labeled with "Pin" numbers (Pin 181, Pin 208, etc.)  I don't know where these wires go and they are impossible to trace.  One of the aux switches is in use (lights and a camera power).  As far as I can tell, the other 2 aux switches don't appear to control any thing.  I suspect they terminate at empty connectors some where on the frame as part of the "body builders" provisions.  The few online schematics I have have found are very vague.

  9. 12 hours ago, Brad & Jacolyn said:

    That manifold you mention should have 5 solenoids on it. I have replaced the one for the air horn a couple of times. I'm not sure if they are all the same or if they use different pressures but I have one for the sliding hitch that is not used any longer so when I needed to replace one I just swapped that solenoid into the position that was not working. That did not work and I had to buy one anyway. Just mentioned this because if you do not know what is controlled by the one that is leaking they are also color coded by the air line. I do not have the colors handy right now but could probably find them if needed.

    Last thing about the manifold you are going to remove. The holes that the bolts use have a bushing in them. Something else to jump out and escape if you do not know they are there (guess how I found out?). 

    My manifold has 4 solenoids.  The truck does not have an air horn.  As you say, one of my solenoids was for the sliding fifth wheel and that has been removed, so I have an extra one also.  The solenoids are all the same part number and they are replaceable individually.  They just twist together.  You have to extract the wire pins from the connectors, but that is not hard if you have the proper tools.  But that is the problem of using the "extra" one.  You have to move the wires in the connector or try to figure out what switch is now controlling the solenoid.  My sliding fifth wheel switch has been removed to install a camera display in the dash.

    I just plugged off the input line to the manifold to get home.  That meant I could not dump my suspension air, but nothing of importance was affected.  New solenoid is installed and everything is normal now. 

  10. 22 hours ago, Moresmoke said:

    This is what the inside of your walls look like.

    HK8iUm2l.jpg

    You will need to do some rearranging of the ductwork and move the sleeper control panel on the other side. By the time you are done will likely need new wall panels also.

    I didn’t want to give up the bunk HVAC or storage, so I removed the flip up bed frame and put a sheet of plywood on top of the lower frame to mount a seat to. Also had to make a 4 inch riser in front of the seat to get the height right.

    lNxrtd3l.jpg

    kwYPrrQl.jpg

    Thanks for the pictures.  I am undecided on how much of the cabinetry to leave.

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