dmk

I had to go through this process recently as I changed my business to SD, dissolving an s-corp from one state and creating a new LLC in SD. Since I use a Nation wide bank I actually created my accounts while in another state. In my case I used my in-laws physical address, then made sure all contact (mailing address) is set up to use my PMB. Most correspondence set up for online too.  This is also an issue when it comes to purchasing firearms. 

You can't go wrong with Michelin XDN2 for drive tires and the tread design works great if you boondock and venture off road some.

I have used packaging tape with success to keep the glass together until it can be replaced. Replacing window glass is a PITA. The actual part numbers are on a sticker on the inside of the frame, meaning you must remove window frame to access the label. It's not difficult, but a royal pain, then about 5 weeks for Duncan/LCI to make the replacement.

I was wondering if I was the only one having issues with my Kodial disc brakes! I have had caliper bolts coming loose caliper brackets breaking on the Right rear on my tandem axle toy hauler.  I am using the red locktite. Never tried the brake cleaner idea but have not had issues taking them apart either.  I have the MORryde 8k IS  the right rear caliper bracket breaks off the top ear of the bracket.  I'll bet over the last 2 years I have replaced it 4 times. Torqing everything to spec the bracket bolts at 85 ft lbs and the caliper bolts at 45 ft lbs and red locktite.  No other issues, alignment is right on no excessive tire wear or anything indicating an issue. It's frustrating to say the least!  The last time just a few weeks ago the bottom bolt came out and the caliper pivoted after the bracket broke and wedged in the wheel, when your towing with a 475 hp tractor you can't feel it until it's too late and a $500 tire is smoked and $600 wheel is damaged.  It's pretty much part of my daily pre-trip routine now to check the caliper bolt torque. 

Overnighted at Victoria City RV Park, it was great for an overnight but for a month long stay I would say probably not. My truck & trailer connected is 61' then we have the Jeep behind. Not the best big rig RV park but if your going to Magnolia Beach a great stop to service tanks and get water.

Dave, not sure you remember me. I saw your old truck "Semi Sane" a few years ago at the rodeo in Mitchell, SD and reached out to you.  Hope you all have a great get together and one of these days I'll get to one of these rally's!

11 hours ago, sandsys said:

You could go to La Posa South until you need to dump then go to one of the other LTVAs for the rest of your 14 days. Your pass does not restrict you to any one area. You can go to any of the regional LTVA's on that same pass. I used to buy an annual just so I could come and go as my urge to move hit but I could always go dump and fill at no extra charge even if I'd been camping with friends in a free area. The break even point on an annual is 10 weeks which was a deal for me being in the general area November to March. Moving from Q to Midland LTVA, which is  north of Blyth, then down to Imperial Dam, etc. gets you lots of variety.

Linda

Thanks! Yes, I do know this,  we have bought a 2 week LVTA pass the first year we were on the road and went to Imperial Dam & Holtville Hot Springs. We just have already been there and as I say like to go to more remote BLM's with awesome off roading.

I like to stop at Q when I can to have roadmaster go thru my tow bar and maybe a stop at the adult day care...

One of these days I'll catch an HDT rally, I always have conflicts it seems with the National HDT Rally in Hutchisnson.

6 minutes ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy DMK,

Yes there is a LOT of FREE BLM camping in and around Q, that said by the time you count the cost of diesel fuel and time going miles to dump and refill with water and get rid of your garbage, 40 bucks for 14 days with all of these things on site is cheap and EASY.  Just my opinion and it's a lot more secure then some of the free spots much less chance of things growing legs and going walkabout.

Dave

I certainly understand, but that just doesn't fit our style of moving around to different BLM's and going off roading in our Jeep. We usually don't stay in any one location longer than a week to 10 days.  I have been boondocking a lot and have never had any trouble with thieves, but I don't  get in the habit of temping them either by leaving anything out un secured.  Yes, water & dump will cost you extra, but the transfer station North of town lets you throw your garbage for free.  If your wanting to stay in one spot, I would agree hard to beat the LVTA's, it just comes down to personal preference.

On 12/31/2021 at 4:17 PM, mr. cob said:

Howdy DMK,

Many of us will be here for weeks, some for a month or two.  Easiest to find our group is, Goto the La Posa South, LTVA.  This is located about 4 miles SOUTH of I-10, in Qurartszite, on the EAST side of Hwy 95. 

When you enter the LTAV go about 1.5 miles  on the main ( the ONLY ) real road and you will come to a sewer dump station on the right, garbage dumpsters on the left and the fresh water point which is on the right about 200 yards east from the dump station. 

STOP, look to your right at about a 45 degree angle, you should be able to see many of our rigs.  Continue EAST on the main road about a half mile, look to the right hand side of the road you will see some rocks that are painted GREEN and there may also be a traffic cone, turn and follow the trail across the low spot, turn to the right, follow the trail to our camp area.

These are the GPS coordinates for last years camp which is about 200 yards from this years location, from these coordinates you can easily see our group.

N33° 36.704'          W114° 12.268'

Dave

Thanks for the detailed reply! With all the free options on BLM land I usually don't stay at the LVTA's, when I'm around Q. Otherwise would love to join up you all sometime.

I'll second the cleaning of the thermocouple. I had this exact issue with my oven and after I carefully cleaned the thermocouple it has been working fine.

Hoping to be around Q by the 17th, will you still be around and where's the general location at?

Wondering about this very thing as I contemplate adding a smart shunt on my battery bank in my truck. The battery box on my century even though it is plastic is located between the frame rails under the drom box and of course totally surrounded by the steel of my bed....

On 10/25/2021 at 1:39 PM, noteven said:

Hi dmk,

A heavy duty suspension shop can align a leaf spring/shackles/equalizer type trailer.

All parts must be in wear tolerance.

They bend the axles to point the wheels where they need to be.

 

 

True, but easier to find a shop capable of aligning the IS.

This past June I traveled from West I-76 to Brush, then South on CO 71 to Limon, then US 24 to Colorado Springs. Very good route it brings you to the South end of Colorado Springs.  Guess you could also stay on 71 to 10 towards Walsenburg... or even 71 to US 350 towards Trinidad.... 71 isn't the widest road but it works way better than going through Denver unless your going to pay to take the E470.

safe travels!

You need to locate where the qualcomm box is or was and start from there. You can read more details about my repair above. Mine was located above and in front of the passenger door, not sure that there is a common spot where they were mounted?  On mine it looked like they just tugged on the box to remove it and left some gaping holes in the wire harness, they repaired about a two inch strip where it was tapped in and all is well and has been ever since.  Good luck it can be tricky to find! 

I'll chime in. After wearing out tires about every 1500 miles or so I had my 2013 Keystone Raptor 300mp upgraded to the 8k MORryde IS, kodiak disc brakes and 17.5" wheels w/GY G114 rubber about 3 years ago. The upgrade is nice and really nice to have a suspension system which can be aligned(now I can actually keep tires on it). The kodiak disc brakes have given me some trouble as others have said but, I think that problem has finally been sorted out. 

 Now I feel I am stuck with our Raptor with the investment between that upgrade and our solar & lithium. The bottom line is the Raptor still has a LCI frame and that's the weakest link in the whole thing.  Would I do it again? I'm not sure! I have so many upgraded and rebuilt parts on my Keystone Raptor it's kind of scary to imagine starting over with a different rig now. Sure I like the upgrade performance wise, but now feel I'm stuck unless I don't mind losing a lot of $.  Kind of a catch 22 so to speak.  Still for the total investment my price point is still way lower than if I had a spacecraft or New Horizon.  I guess what I am trying to say is make sure you really want to stay in the same rig before you do it!  At the end of the day I still have a 2013 Keystone Raptor...

I have also updated my tank sensors to see level II. I added an additional monitor to the wet bay area (so when dumping or filling I can view gauge readings) so I ran separate wiring. Still very easy system to install. Hardest part dropping the coroplast to expose the tanks.

Depending on the time of year be prepared for a busy place. We stopped by last week it was pretty full. Two years ago we were nearly by ourselves. Like others have said check the road in first especially if recent rain has fallen. Be prepared for wind and storms. It is an awesome place just think about wind and storms when you setup and you'll be fine.

I tried the Harbor Freight one but it didn't work on 22.5 tires and took way longer on the 35's on my JK Wrangler, so I took it back and bought the Viar , way better!

17 hours ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy Randy,

The exhaust straight down could be nasty if it’s a dusty area, just something to think about.

Dave

I second this. My truck has a weed burner that points down. Two things, the dust and the right rear tire temps go high in slow traffic.  I do hope to change my setup eventually it's just not real high on my priority list right now.

I also have Kodiak brakes that were installed at MORryde last year, about two months ago noticed issues and upon further investigation found a caliper bolt loose and the other missing on the right rear, all others were good and tight.  Ended up replacing a loaded caliper and hub on that side and now check the bolt tightness as part of routine maintenance!  Interesting that there might be a recall.... I will look into that as well.

I have also wished that Amazon could automatically ship USPS if you select a General Delivery address for an order. You would think with all thier tech they would be able to do this.... good to know there is a form, but sometimes it's more practical to use UPS or FedEx, so I don't want a permanent change.

On 10/9/2018 at 7:57 PM, Darryl&Rita said:

Called it on April 17. 😀😁😀 Seriously, that was some good sleuthing by the shop. Intermittent faults are a bear.

Yes, these types of repairs come down to how sharp the individual is doing the diagnostics and their product knowledge of component and wiring layouts.  I never would have thought about looking in the location they found the trouble.  So glad to have it fixed!

 Finally a resolution! Having an automotive background, but not a HDT background, I've learned quite a bit about the data link systems on this Freightliner/Detroit diesel truck. Interesting that it has two different data link systems!  The J1939 which basically runs the truck engine and transmission controls (and fortunate for me was not the issue or I would have been on the side of the road!) The second data stream is the J1587/J1708 which runs the smart guages, ABS, HVAC, and satellite systems. First this issue showed up only after getting a wash at a truck wash like Blue Beacon, it would last for 10 minutes or so then everything would come back online and never set any fault codes.  A few weeks ago this problem showed up for the first time during rain and high humidity and lasted for 4 days unfortunately I had to keep a timeline traveling to an event and couldn't stop to try to isolate at that point (fortunately I could use my GPS for my speedometer). When I did get stopped it started working again!  This would never store fault codes either!  During the 4 day period of course I noticed that the A/C would not work, knowing that the system was not flat and noticed that the A/C compressor clutch was not engaging (found no blown fuse's) figured this was all tied altogether with the data link error I was getting. I pulled apart as many connectors as I could find with the data link, and even opened the wiring loom in the engine compartment and pass through s hoping I would find something either by sight or by wiggling the wiring harness around, but nothing seemed to be an issue here! After a few more days I was at my in-laws for a few days and I stopped down to the local Freightliner Dealer near my in-laws Truck Centers, INC in Mt. Vernon, IL, they were great and let me explain my situation with one of their technicians.  He had reaffirmed that it was more than likely a short in the J1578/J1708 data stream and that he had seen lots of engine harness issues on the Century's. He seemed really knowledgeable and I would have loved for him to look at it, but I had to get back on the road to another event. Finally a few more weeks went by when the condition reappeared and did not go away this time and had actually set fault codes!  I happened to be in Waco working an event and would be here for a few weeks so I checked out the Freightliner dealer here in Waco, Lonestar Truck Group. I again explained what had been going on to the shop foreman giving him as many details as I could. After our visit he was pretty confident they could figure this out in around 3 to 5 hours, so I decided to let them give it a look. Here is what they found. The high leg of the J1708 data link had shorted to ground. they isolated it to the satellite systems leg on the truck. (Not knowing where all the component and wiring locations are is what made trying to do this myself difficult with my event schedule I have to keep and not having access to wiring diagrams and repair manuals). Well they found a chaffed/corroded section of the harness over the passenger side in front of the door, probably from someone yanking out possibly a qualcomm box!  Not sure if that would have been the fleet company that owned this truck originally or the company that customized it for the gentleman I purchased it from? The good news is it is fixed now and the guys here at Lonestar Truck Group did an awesome job getting it done reasonably fast and keeping the cost down for a repair that comes down to time and materials.

This seems to be can bus related. Truck, runs, shifts, etc.

After checking pass thru connections and can bus connections in the engine compartment yesterday, all is working well today. Intermittent electronics can be tuff to get to the root cause. We'll keep searching....