D&J

Your chances of getting the studs out without removing the manifolds are slim to none. On my 4.6 Triton V8 that had the same design and same studs instead of trying to remove the remaining nuts and breaking them off I used a right angle die grinder with a arbor so I could use 3" cutoff wheels and cut one side of the nuts off, you have to be careful not to damage the threads, then a impact driver with a 6 point socket to get them off. The remaining studs didn't want to come out so I reused them. The broken studs that were below the head I drilled a 1/8 pilot hole being very careful not to get into the water jacket and then used a left hand twist bit and got one to come out but the other one I drilled and taped because it would come out. The Ford style metal gasket works great when it's all new and flat but not so great after many heat cycles so I used the same style of Fel-Pro gasket I've used for years, it's way more forgiving. Yours will look different but same material.

Denny

What we are doing is casting with two Chromecast devices one for each phone. Our Moto 5G phones will not mirror through the USB port but we changed our plans to two single 5G planes with 50GB phone data and 25 GB of hotspot premium data so for now we have 50GB of premium hotspot and for $20 more a month we can raise our premium hotspot to 50 on each phone 100 total. The premium hotspot data works and you don't get slowed down during busy times, we tried it over Memorial weekend and it works as advertised.

Denny

5 hours ago, hemsteadc said:

I stop in at Walmart today and see if I can find that cable.  Thanks

Be advised that not all phones will let you do that and Walmart doesn't carry that cable, USB to HDMI adapter.

Denny

Depends on a lot of factors like pin weight, truck load capacity, trailer balance and extra weight in the box. In our case with out F350 DRW we have them but our trailer has 3400lbs of pin weight and we have a 50 gal aux tank, we only run 35 to 40 lbs in them but it levels the truck, helps the ride by keeping it off the overloads. We also have a onboard compressor so we can vary it from inside of the cab.

Denny

I think I still have ours but it's in Nebraska and we are in Texas, I got brake fluid on the case so it's shot but everything else is fine if it's still there. Should be home for the summer next week.

Denny

27 minutes ago, trailertraveler said:

I also use a router. The printer, multiple smart TVs and Roku devices are all setup to connect to it so that I never have to change their settings. The router I use is capable of connecting to 2.4 and 5 GHZ wifi, ethernet and by tethering a phone or tablet. I find that tethering provides faster speeds than connecting to the phone or tablet.

Before you buy the cable, make sure your phone supports the use of one. Despite specifically asking Verizon for a phone that supported HDMI, I found that the Samsung phone they sold me does not. I can mirror cast to my Roku devices by wifi and it counts as on device data. At times the connection is funky and has to be restarted. It also seems that the phone needs a faster connection when mirror casting than when viewing on the phone. It is my understanding that all I-phones support HDMI. 

I will check on that, we went to Motorola phones this time because on my last two Samsung phones I had trouble with the USB ports, both old style and USB C.

Denny

2 hours ago, durangodon said:

Yes.

ON EDIT:  Those other devices will still recognize each hotspot separately, not sure what you would gain by making the passwords identical except it might make them easier to remember.

Didn't figure it would that easy. With our 5G Verizon plan each phone has 50GB phone data and 25GB hotspot data and our Chromecast is a pain to switch between the two. I may just buy another Chomecast and a HDMI splitter to make to make it easyer. I'm going to get a HDMI to USB C adapter so we can mirror the phone screen to the TV and use more of the phone data. For $10  more a month for each phone we can increase hotspot data to 50GB if needed.

Denny

We have two identical 5G phones on Verizon and was wondering if I can change both hotspots to the same password so I won't have to change things over on my connected devices like our Chromecast and printer.

Denny

19 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

Ok. Just what procedure one use to test that. Checking cylinders easy. Just remove hose and run pump. 

On my Monarch pump I just remove and clean them.

Denny

Before you replace or rebuild them make sure your check valves at the pump aren't leaking by.

Denny

2 hours ago, agesilaus said:

We are looking for a replacement for our incinerated 2012 350. Looking at 2016-2018 Ram and Ford HD trucks.

I see a number of RAM diesel 3500 duallys (2017) showing up at a very good price. One in particular a Laredo at 40K with all sorts of options.
I've never driven a drw before and it seems overkill for our 9K Trailer.
Are they that much harder to drive and park? What about mileage? Better than a gasser anyway I assume. We'll look at it Tuesday probably.
Lots of gas Ford 6.2L around at a good price. And thoughts on that engine from owners? I assume they'll pull our TT easily tho with worse millage but the big price advantage of gas vs diesel at the pump right now may help that.

I'm pulling out 16K 5th wheel with a 2013 Ford 6.2 DRW 2x4 with 4.30 gears that we had from new. Pulling at reasonable speeds over long trips it will get 8 to 9 and 13 to 15 hwy empty.

Denny

What ever happened to common sense, remember the days when you got sick you just stayed home so you didn't spread it and if it didn't go away you went to the doctor. Now you have sick people standing in lines to get tested spreading whatever they have to be told they are sick with whatever. We are vaccinated and came down with Omicron after the first of the year but didn't run out and get tested we just did what we have always done and stayed away from others and recovered without and problems. Anyone that can read should know what to look for and know that unless it gets severe just use over the counter meds.

Denny

4 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Not complaining. Just stating. Our speed is great. Don't see how 5 g can be an improvement.

If you were in a area that has poor 4GLTE because it's overloaded so it's slow you would realize why 5G works better. 

4G is going to be just like 3G when 4G came along and they stopped building out 3G. 

Denny

We just made the switch to 5G on our Verizon cell phones and won't be looking back any time soon. Would really like to see how good it is in a area that had the Ultra Wide band but for now it's way better than the 4G LTE here in Yuma.

Denny

28 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

RV refrigerators have finally begun to change but the same is true of home refrigerators. Many newer RVs come with a house type refrigerator, powered by an inverter when not connected to shore power while recently some are coming new with 12V compressor refrigerators, most of which use the Danfoss compressors. Several of the RV appliance companies now build them and if I were to replace mine today I would take a hard look at them. The Dometic DMC4101 is an example of them. Norcold has the Polar 10DC – 10 cu. ft. DC Compressor RV. I have recently become aware of the Everchill line of 12V compressor refrigerators for the RV. 

The house type of refrigerators are far more power efficient than they used to be and that plays a major role in the increasing number of them found in RVs today. One major advantage to either of the compressor designs is that the compressor is much smaller than the absorption cooling units and so the same physical size refrigerator will home much more. 

Yes they do run on 12volts DC but for the price I would go with a residential running on a dedicated inverter because the 12vdc units are 120 volt ac compressors with a inverter mounted to the compressor. The residential would also be cheaper.

As far as your 20 year old RV frig if it fails I would replace the cooling unit with a Amish replacement, they cool faster and have less run time and you won't have to worry about keeping your batteries charged. We have the same unit and replaced the cooling unit with a Amish cooling unit 5 years ago. I put a new Domitic frig in a friend's MH last week and it was a cheaply made piece of junk IMO.

Denny

1 hour ago, FlyFishn said:

Wheres the air compressor, Denny? Viair system behind the side panels? 😄

In all seriousness, we think alike on that point. Down the road I would like to have a portable air compressor with around 20-30gal tank capacity I can run on the road. I've looked at the Viair systems. As convenient as they would be for "on-board air" - a conventional compressor run off a generator would be more versatile for me because I can weld off the same generator. Yeah there are engine drive compressors and welders, but I don't think you can beat the versatility of a separate generator powering both - with commercial power available on-site (wherever that may be) theres no need to run the gen to get the compressor or welder going.

The compressor I started with at home was a 20gal. The tank is rusted beyond my comfort level of using it so I have a 10gal harbor freight tank plumbed in for interim use. However, its only a 135psi set up. I haven't used it in a year or so. I got a heavier 240/120v circuit in to run welders more comfortably. I was using a 30a dryer outlet on the inside of the garage wall. It actually will provide all the power I need for any welding I might do here (not real heavy), but I had to run a cord through the door to the garage to do it. So instead of just splitting it with another outlet and running the circuit hard at times I thought I'd just run a whole other heavier circuit. With that set up I can run pretty much what ever single phase motor I want - they top out around 7.5hp (beyond that is 3-phase). I'm thinking that is the way to go - air is one of those things you can never have too much of, and if you have too little its irritating.

Back more on topic - air tools on the road would be great. Yeah you can get capable cordless impacts these days, but there are things you can do with air a lot easier that cordless tools can't - fill (and mount) tires.

I have a giant ratchet - made by EZ Red - that extends to around 4 feet. They make a 3/4" drive and 1" drive version, mine is the 3/4" and I have an adapter to 1" if I need it. If I can't work bolts and nuts with normal size tools I use that ratchet. It beats a pipe and a smaller ratchet or wrench, or even a long breaker bar - it ratchets - and doesn't take a lot of air to run like a heavier impact wrench. Even if air and a heavy impact is available a giant ratchet is a fantastic back up. Its saved my bacon a few times.

Stiff lug nuts are a common one. I break with the EZ Red (off, spin with drill or by hand off & on and torque wrench to set proper torque - always).

We have two compressors one for the trucks air bags mounted to the frame and a 1.5 gal 150 psi 120 volt in the second tool box. I have a 20 volt cordless impact for lug nuts.

Denny

2 hours ago, RangeMaggotBob said:

Not to get off-topic, but wow Denny! That's a sharp looking rig! 

Thanks, I just can't stand to leave our homebase without my tools. 🍻

Denny

11 hours ago, FlyFishn said:

@D&J - Thanks for the box idea. That gives me some good food for thought.

 

Though the box idea gives me some options, what it doesn't do is satisfy the "enclosed bed" idea. The volume in the boxes might only be 1/4, if that even, of the total volume available with a cap - and being separate boxes they would not be able to contain bulky things - like building materials, miter saw, table saw, etc. They will, however, be able to hold chains and other rigging gear (and keep it better organized - big plus), smaller hand held power tools, maybe some shorter long tools like sledge hammer, axe, pry bars, but not shovels.

The obvious question is can't some of that stuff get wet in an open bed - like shovels? That doesn't solve the theft problem and we've had an issue with that - working in residential areas and going back to the trucks stuff has magically walked off.

Just thinking out loud here - the box idea does most certainly help with weight distribution. That would allow a significant amount of weight to ride in the truck that would otherwise have to ride in a 5th wheel.

You should really consider a Toy Hauler, lots of room to store your tools in a dry environment.

Denny

Here's another option, the first box is a 50 gal aux tank but it can be a large tool box, the second one is a box designed for a short box so its tapered at the bottom for the hitch. The other two are 10" side boxes. The hitch has been replaced by a Pullright SuperLite so its really easily removed.

I would never go to a TT because of the lack of storage when compared to a 5th wheel.

Denny

Our taxes are about as simple as they can get and we tried Turbo Tax free and it's not free and that's probably why it's no longer on the IRS web page. 

We use one of the other free sites linked on the IRS site.

Denny

2 hours ago, Randyretired said:

I received my letter today.  Just put those tires on and not one mile or even one revolution.  I guess I will deal with it after Christmas. 

What tires do you have?

This is what I got off the site  

Sailun Tire Americas, Inc. (Sailun) is recalling certain Sailun, RoadX, Blacklion, Blackhawk, and Ironhead brand tires, sizes ST235/80R16 and ST235/85R16 with DOT codes 2020 through 4120. Due to a manufacturing issue, the tires may experience a belt separation

Denny

59 minutes ago, KodiakJack said:

Wouldn't you know it.  There are about 5 miles on the Sailun S637 tires I recently purchased and now they have been recalled.  Being Christmas eve I have yet to contact Sailun to find out details on how the free replacement tires will work but will let folks know when I do.

Meanwhile here is a link to the DOT NHTSA site with some additional information (there are other tires involves so you might want to look around) but clearly my new SAILUN/ST235/85R16 are on the list.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/tire/SAILUN/SAILUN/ST235%252F80R16/a__5103753#recalls

Later,

J

PS Merry Christmas all.

 

The S637 tires aren't on the recall, if you look at the recall there are 4 listed by name, roadx, blacklion, blackhawk, and ironhead brand.

Denny

3 hours ago, aztex said:

RO can't keep up with demands other than drinking water can it? RO usually relies upon a reservoir and fills in the back ground.

 

I'm considering a small sink mount RO unit just for drinking.

 

Thanks!

If the incoming water is high in salt the softener will not remove it, I don't know of anyone that drinks Yuma water from the tap.

After you use a water softener for awhile the scale buildup in the water heater tank will come lose and and clean out of the system if you remove the drain plug and open up the high pressure relief valve the water will rush out and take most of the lime with it.

We only use our RO system for drinking and cooking, we have a separate faucet at the kitchen sink.

There are 3 things we would without in our water system 1. sediment filter before the softener 2. water softener 3. RO system. 

When we are away from Yuma our water out of the tap has no salt taste to it.

Denny

First are you sure that it's hooked up properly? Even with running it through a softener and a filter we will not drink Yuma water straight from faucet, Yuma water is notoriously salty and it just tastes bad. We use a RO system for drinking and cooking. Check it with a test strip on the cold water side not the hot because it takes a long time to get the water changed out in the water heater. Water softeners will not remove salt, and taste from the water.

Denny

49 minutes ago, odigity said:

I just came here to ask for help with my backfiring furnace, and this thread was at the top of the forum.  That's funny.

I made a video of it:

No idea what to do.  I'm not very mechanically inclined.  Don't even know the model #, just that it's Dometic, because the manual lists 13 different model numbers.

That is caused by a hole in the heat exchanger. Find a RV tech to confirm, if the rest of the furnace is in good shape they can replace the exchanger.

Denny