Jim & Wilma
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Posts posted by Jim & Wilma
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8 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:
Reason for replacement is the “plug” connected to the lanyard has become fused to the body of the switch so I can’t pull on the lanyard and remove it.
@SuiteSuccessCarl, I had a similar issue years ago. I would often test the switch and measure the current, sometimes taking a few minutes in the process. One of the times I just couldn’t pull the plunger out. Got me curious why it stuck.
So I did a forensic exam of the switch. I found the plastic plunger, that separates the spring loaded contacts, had melted into the contacts. My conclusion was the contacts had previously made poor contact and became rather hot, probably glowing. When the plunger was reinserted to separate the contacts, the contacts also melted into the plastic plunger.
After that experience,I paid a bit more attention to switch current handling capacity, though that data can be a challenge to find. It was one more reason I changed to electric over hydraulic -
Functionally they’re all the same; contact closes when pin is pulled out. If you’ve got hydraulic brakes, it’s pretty low current and any switch should work fine. If electric/magnetic brakes, each wheel is 3 amps and I’d try to check and make sure it’s rated for the amp load.
In either case, it’s a good practice to routinely pull the pin to make sure it works. For electric brakes, a clamp on amp meter will tell you if all the magnets are working; total current = 3 amps times # of wheels.
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If you can keep your taxable income 150% of poverty level, ACA Marketplace cost will be near zero.
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Is the 14.9mm measurement at the base where the wires are?
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Measure the width of the wedge base and compare to this chart for bulb size. Probably a T10 or 10mm wide. With the bulb size, I’d go to Amazon or Superbrightled and select an LED 12 volt replacement.
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Reduced to $9,000.
Selling our 2017 Smart. It’s in very good condition, runs great and has just under 54,000 miles. 2017 is the last year the ICE Smarts were sold in the states. Rear bumper has a removable fixture I made to winch it up our BigBoy ramps. See Marketplace for photos and details.
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That’s a good looking Herrin hauler bed. Some beds are made as well, few any better.
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I believe Silverleaf application is still available for download. However there’s no interface hardware or technical support. Suspect eBay may be source for interface hardware.
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Had great ride on the Parkway in our Volvo VNL pulling a fifth wheel.. If time allows, consider dry camping at the Columbia Icefield Visitor Center, great view of the Athabaskan glacier.
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There will be days where 400 miles in 8 hours is possible. There might also be days where you wait an hour for construction and then escorted by a pilot car for 10 miles at 15 mph.
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Phil, would the other brand be Truck Systems Technologies?
We use the TST-507 system and it’s consistently worked over the last 8 years. We've had a couple occasions where the tire was losing pressure and we pulled over before the tread separated and any damage occurred. We did have to upgrade to the new display to avoid occasional over 500psi false alarms it was picking up from other systems.
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My preference would be to fly there first with down payment in hand and wait a bit to drive up and get it. We have a sister fifth wheel and if that was the size we were looking for, I'd do whatever was necessary to make sure I had first refusal. You'd pay 10 times their asking price for a better constructed new RV. Good luck!
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If we were looking today for a quality, well built fifth wheel, this New Horizon would be our first stop. We’d probably throw another $20k into it for solar, batteries, residential refer if possible, new TVs; altogether way less than half price of new.
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We were losing prime with cranking taking up to 10 seconds. Injectors and cups are a common cause along with a couple other culprits. Make sure the shop has evidence it’s the injectors, such as bubbles in fuel tank or diesel fuel in oil.
We were “lucky” to have a leaking seal in our manual prime pump. Put some grease on the pump shaft a year or so ago to help diagnose it. It stopped the prime leak down and I haven’t done anything else since.
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Carl, looked it up on RV Mobile Network’s site and there’s no Ethernet port on the Sky2 and it can operate independently or paired with one of their inside units. It’s been discontinued.
We used to have an outside WiFi router but found it’s utility to be very limited. There were occasions we used it but in my opinion it didn’t justify the cost of upgrading every few years. We still have an inside router serving as the hub for the TVs, laptop, phones, printer and etc which is pretty useful when one device wants to “talk” to another on the same network.
Here’s the link to Mobile Internet’s review, though it may not work without subscription.
https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/gear/wifiranger-sky2/ -
Carl, I had similar difficulty with one of their other products. Connected via the Ethernet port to my laptop. Bingo, that got me in and was able to reset. It might be worth a try if the Sky has an Ethernet port.
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Welcome to the HDT world.
We use the fifth wheel front jacks to lift the load off the hitch. We look for a small gap between the pin box plate and the hitch plate before unlocking the hitch and pulling away. As we raise the fifth wheel, the truck suspension and hitch air bags automatically adjust to compensate for change in load. Takes a few seconds for the system to stabilize which you can hear by listening to the air releasing from the bags as the load is removed from the truck.
You could drop the pressure in the air bags and accomplish the same but don't see any advantage. In either case, you want to be mindful of not allowing the fifth to support the truck load.
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This is a common issue with the RF217 and 18 fridges. Problem is the defrost condensation drain freezes up and water “spills” over. There’s a fairly simple mod you can make that’ll fix it.
Should be able to find some YouTube videos that detail the mod.
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3 hours ago, Jaydrvr said:
What am I missing in your view on this?
The title of this post is the conclusion of one man. It’s the “analysis” of the FL Surgeon General and his conclusion that I believe is premature and likely flawed given his previous statements and positions.
I have no argument with the written report and having taken graduate courses in statistics, I’m just smart enough to let others digest the data and make their assessments.
It’ll be interesting to follow this through and see what conclusions other sources come to. -
2 hours ago, Chalkie said:
Yes, further study is needed but that is no reason to toss out the initial conclusion.
My point in our discussion was to try to advise against taking the conclusion of a single individual before the medical community has an opportunity to assess the significance of the FL report.
Vaccine trials and approval process follow a very thorough process involving experts within academia, industry and government. For your reading entertainment . . . https://www.cdc.gov/vaccines/basics/test-approve.html
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38 minutes ago, Chalkie said:
. . . if you actually read all of that link you find all the facts and figures . . .
The study notes that,
“Additional studies should be conducted to further understand the risks and benefits of vaccination of males between 25-39.”
It is this further study that is lacking.
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13 hours ago, Chalkie said:
And you know this how? The study certainly was not conducted by him solely and nowhere in that document is surgeon general mentioned. I don't see that your comment adds anything to the conversation.
I rely on peer reviewed medical sources for my guidance, not an individual’s “analysis”. Is there ANY peer reviewed source that supports the FL Surgeon General’s conclusion? No there isn’t and there won’t be any. This should inform us on the quality of the source.
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The source of this guidance is the FL Surgeon General, an individual not well respected by his peers.
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12 hours ago, King_Ikaika9 said:
Thank you so much for the response Jim, got them apart! With a little help of some sheer desperation.
Sounds like you have a smart EV and I’m not familiar with differences that might be associated with the ignition vs a smart ICE. I’m guessing your solenoid is again the culprit and removal may be an option, however, if it’s an EV and you’re getting some odd smells, I’d seek out a Mercedes dealer that services smart cars.
Trailer Breakaway Switch
in HDT
Posted
Smiles and reminds me of a story.
Technicians maintaining critical ground support equipment were using “graduated” popsicle sticks to apply and measure application of an adhesive. Use once and throw away the sticky sticks (sorry). Made lots of practical sense to them . . . but not to Quality.
Quality went into orbit over use of non-calibrated measuring devices and made quite an issue of it. They argued, with some logic, failure to apply the adhesive to spec could result in system failure with potential for catastrophic consequences. I got unenviable task to address and resolve this but that's another story.