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Star Dreamer

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Posts posted by Star Dreamer

  1. 1 hour ago, lockmup68 said:

    Update, after hauling rest of way from Kansas to Utah, discovered, I can only unhitch if I lift the trailer up enough to get the handle to slide forward enough to release the jaws. 

    I will need to bend the handle up a couple of inches to clear the side rail of the hitch with weight on the hitch. And it needs to be a few inches longer as mentioned above. 

    I will get you a picture of the handle that we use with our ET hitch head and you might be able to use something like it. It allows me to use a 1/2" breaker bar if I need additional leverage.

  2. 1 hour ago, Timon said:

    I thought all HDTs were required to put their single plate on the front. In fact I thought no HDT only get one plate eve in CA. 

    Varies based on your state. In South Carolina it is located on the rear. In Minnesota we had two plates so one on front and one on rear. I believe there is at least one state that requires it located on the front if you are commercial and on the rear of your are not.

    Dave

  3. You will need dimensions of your truck wheel base and pin location plus individual axle weights and the locations on the bed for each of the items.  You will have to calculate the weight of the bed behind the centerline of the rear axle and in front of the rear axle. Anything located behind the trucks rear axle centerline will add weight to rear axle and off load front axle. Weights in front of the rear axle centerline will add weights to both front and rear axle proportionately to both depending on location. If you plan on storage boxes under the bed, you will have to include these and any items in them in your calculations.

    When I built our bed 7years ago, there was a spread sheet on the HDT Escappees forum forum that I used but there was some errors that I had to adjust for.

    Dave

  4. Henry, I am heading to Wisconsin in a couple of weeks and will need to stop by a Menards just because I hate not having one in South Carolina. Let me know if you want me to pick some up and ship them to you or bring them back to South Carolina with us.

    Dave

  5. Glen Our ET seems like it takes a minute or too for the hitch head to start lowering after I have raised the trailer up to unhook. I will be hooking up tomorrow and then unhooking on Saturday once we get to our campground. I will see if I can time it. 

    On 6/25/2019 at 8:01 PM, GlennWest said:

    I just wondering why the leveling valve don't bleed off as hitch going up. The truck will. 

    Dave

  6. Usually the whole panel is sprayed or at least up to a body line as it will leave a hard line. The entire surface to be sprayed needs to be scuffed. So the clear coat adheres correctly. You will want to have someone check to see why yours is peeling as you do not want to spray over it and it still peels.

  7. We have Freightliner with a series 60 engine so it may or may not be the same. We have a separate cruise on/off switch and a set/resume switch. Each time we start the truck I have to turn off the on/off switch and then turn it back on before the set speed switch will lock in the cruise, even if the light is on for the cruise by the on/off switch.

    Dave

  8. 23 hours ago, Refuzn-To-Grow-Up said:

    I am thinking about installing a Drom box "garage" on my Volvo (see photo).   I am singled short.  I am even thinking about installing a smaller version of an overhead crane system similar to the one installed on Henry's Volvo, Ketchup.  The crane would be used lift the things into the garage, like barbeques, recumbent trike. For those of you have done this modification, I have a few questions.

    Did you build or buy the box?  If you bought, who did you buy from?

    How do you access your fuel tanks to fill up?

    How do you access the cab suspension components at the back of the cab?

    Any other comments and/or suggestions would be appreciated.

    mlc_main.jpg

    We built our own but we do not have a side access door or crane because we did not need one.

    Accessing fuel is not an issue as a Freightliner has the fuel tanks farther forward with access door in fairing. On a Volvo you have to leave an access hole like in the picture you posted.

    Cab suspension parts are accessed from underneath. We just had a cab bag replaced on our last trip at a dealer and the mechanic said it was not much harder doing it. You may want to just go ahead and replace you cab bags and shocks before you build your bed, then you know they will all be good and should last your lifetime.

    Dave

  9. Congrats! If it is coming with those 15" tires that are on the spec info, we wish you luck that you have no issues with them. I would at least get tire monitors and maybe a 2nd spare. Check them regularly for any unusual tire wear and replace them if you do, don't wait till they blow.

    Dave

  10. Sitting in Murfreesboro TN. Left SC this morning and one my way up to MN. For some reason I cannot get my snowbird seasons right. In July we went to Florida, now I am heading to MN at the end of November which some parts got over 24" of snow.

     

    Luckily the area I am going to didnt get any and I will only be there till Thanksgiving and then I head back south.

     

    Dave

  11. Road warrior,

     

    This is our opinion for what it is worth. We would need more info on each of them if it was available.

    On the Volvo, try to find out of the EGR valve or Turbo had been replaced previously. Most likely the truck was still under warranty if do and the records would be available with Volvo. This would give you an idea if it eats EGR valves and if it would need one in your lifetime of ownership. If so you would be best to budget a replacement just in case. If it went nearly 500k on the first set hopefully you will get that much out of the replacement. Be sure they replace both EGRs if is has two and see if they will warranty the work.

     

    On the Peterbuilt, you need to find out why it needs to be rebuilt with that low of miles. Same as above, see if they are willing to provide a warranty.

     

    You do realize the 670 is a smaller cab than a 770 on the Volvo. Make sure that works for you.

     

    Also, it will be hard to find an automatic in an HDT. The I shifts, Freedomlines and Ultrashifjts (& a new Detroit transmission) are pretty close with only 2 pedals but are considered auto shifting transmissions as the computer is doing the shifting for you. An autoshift is similar but has a clutch to start out with.

     

    Dave

  12. I was only joking......no way the trailer is up for 4k hitch weight.

     

    I'm already over length as it is right now and tail swing with the hitch 7' behind the axle is where I'm comfortable. If it makes it happen, I could probably slide my hitch platform back 3-4" and just re-drill I'll the holes in it.....not much point if it doesn't fix it though.

     

    I'll put the Jeep back up there one of the days and try some stuff like dropping air pressure, strapping the front end down, rear axle up on ramps, dumping bags on the truck, etc.... to see how much it affects the situation.

     

    Maybe a couple of small changes will do the trick.

     

     

    You may end up doing a combination of items:

     

    Can you raise the hitch up effectively raising the front of the trailer and still get over the hitch with the jeep?

     

    The top rear of the jeep actually looks lower than the front from your pictures, can you drive on forward? Could you easily remove front which mount to move vehicle closer to cab if you drove it on?

     

    Wrknvr drives his up a pretty steep ramp to gain more clearance and then uses the space under the ramps for additional storage.

     

    DSC04806.jpg

     

    DSC04805.jpg

     

    Be careful about just strapping it down by the frame. We strap the rear of our van down in our toy hauler to both the frame and the axle. The frames straps us to break all the time and now they just loosen up on occasion many because the even though we compress the suspension some the van can still bounce downward and then when it comes back up it hits hard on the straps. We are actually seeing our D-rings that hold those straps are starting to pull up though the floor. We have to add some more reinforcement to the underside.

     

    Dave

     

    You may need to do some good measurements and then have someone put it in CAD and try different approaches so you are not wasting abound od money or time on items that would not work.

  13. Looking good. Is it correct that you went from a taller ratio of 3:08 to 3:36? It must have been lugging it with the 3:08 so when you went to the 3:36 it must have gotten it into the power band more to help improve the fuel mileage. Most people would have tried gong the other way to improve mileage.

    Dave

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