Nigel

Rick 

That reminds me of a sign I saw in a repair shop years ago.  “If it’s good enough, It’s crap”

Nigel

Welcome Bill

I’ve only crossed at Windsor once with the truck and trailer and they had me go through truck lanes.  Sarnia is much easier to figure out where to go.  Send a pm to Ralf (hone eagle), he lives near Windsor, crosses there regularly and can tell you which lanes to use.

The general rule is half the width of the trailer plus a couple of inches for turning on uneven terrain.  Maximum trailer width is 102 so 51 plus a couple of inches.

For us the power is quite reliable so we have no need for an expensive whole home solution.  I have the furnace wired on a plug and I have a fifty foot extension cord hanging by the furnace for the odd chance we have a lengthy power failure in the winter.  Then I would plug into my 3500 watt portable generator and keep the heat on gas and not worry about the heat pump.  I’ve tested it but haven’t had to use it yet.  For television and internet I run an extension cord out to truck inverter for a short blackout.  
Here is a link that describes how to wire the furnace.  https://youtu.be/1JNuovFpCpQ?si=LA-buFrAVb9YEFio

Nigel

Buy what you think will work best for you. I have at least thirty thousand miles using a Trailsaver TSLB2H with a trailer that has a 1500 lb pin weight from the factory.  I’m sure my actual pin is a couple of hundred pounds heavier with all the stuff I have packed up front.  What can I say the combination works well.  
Best of luck searching out the options.

Nigel 

14 hours ago, JGWALES said:

 . Has anyone used a Chinese diesel heater to keep bunk warm when parked HDT ? 

I put one in my truck when my Webasto failed after thirteen years.  I don’t think I’ve got more than fifteen or twenty hours on the Chinese heater so I can’t really tell you it is great.  It works well enough to satisfy the independent heat requirement for my motorhome status, but I don’t have confidence that the cheap Chinese heater would be reliable for full time use.  If I was still driving commercial I would buy another Webasto. In the U.S. you can buy the Webasto from Cummins for less than $900. 

Nigel

There aren’t any seals that I can see on mine.  Mine is also older than yours but I suspect the vents are the same.

Nigel

Welcome to the dark side.

Welcome .

As Rick said above, Jackalopee is the easiest way and can be found here https://ethitch.com/et-products/jackalopee/   If you are needing a brake signal for a brake controller it can be taken from the Jackalopee. 
 

Message sent

I’m not a member either but had no trouble accessing from my iPad.  I just found where someone had posted the manual in a forum.  If I had the BrakeSmart I would copy and print the operating instructions.  I understand it was the best controller on the market when it was made.

I think the manual you are looking for is here.  I can’t find anything better.  Hope this helps. 
Nigel 

https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38630&d=1445832001

Thanks for the pictures Rod.

Near the top of this hdt forum is a link to the heavy haulers resource guide. In that there used to be a list of requirements by state to register your truck as a motor home. Might take a little reading. Also I believe Jack Mayer used to have his unit registered in Texas. He is seldom on this site anymore but he can be found through https://rvh-lifestyles.com/services-summary/ maybe drop him an email if someone else doesn’t have more information. 

Rod is this for the new truck?  On my truck the knobs just unscrew counter clockwise maybe yours are the same.

Nigel

I agree.  Looks like there is a high water mark on that bottom relay.

Actually it was Gregg’s guy that found my problem.  Mine was plugged into the diagnostic port above the pedal for the tilt column.  Take the grey panel off and look.  They undid the mount connected the two cables together and mounted the new one in the original spot so you may not see it without removing the panel.  Same kind of idea as when you use a t-connector for trailer wiring in your car except I think these may be threaded together.

Carl I’ve seen that code before but I’d be surprised if yours is the same.  My truck had an e-log communication system similar to a Qualcomm.  There was a t connector on the communication port and the cable went under the floor mat to the transmitter.  When they removed the transmitter the cable was cut and the end was stuffed under the mat.  After a couple of years of stepping on it the end developed a short and threw a code.  The repair was to remove the t connection and pull out the cable that ran under the floor.  I also saw a video some years ago with someone having a similar problem with a Volvo,  his solution was to remove the Qualcomm fuse from the fuse box in the centre of the dash.  Let’s hope you get lucky and it’s this simple.

Nigel

I think this was the video I saw.  https://youtu.be/6R38pKqUq6c

There is a levelling valve on the cab bags as well so make sure you grab the air before the valve. 

The 453 (around 2015 forward in NA) was available with a manual transmission but they are going to be extremely rare.

We got the diesel here for model years 2005 and 2006 only. I don’t think they are old enough yet for you to import although I know there are a few down there.  Great fuel economy, I can easily get 63 miles per US gallon this time of year.

When I was learning to drive years ago I was told dropping a trailer would get you fired immediately from most companies.  I never found out if it was true but it certainly put the emphasis on doing a tug test.

Nigel

Happy Birthday Carl.

That is how I did mine more than ten years ago but the kit didn’t come with the extra cable and plug then.  The cord is available either straight or coiled.  Obviously the straight is easier to work with and unplug it while you are doing your wiring, you may have a constant live wire.  
 

Nigel

Cap off the Blue one and put a quick connect on the red so you can plug in an air hose to inflate tires, use air tools etc.