VegasFlyer

15 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Here's hoping all goes well.

Thanks Brother!!!

Heading out of Parowan, Utah, heading for Missoula, Montana.  We are going to pick up a new Toyhauler with the maiden voyage of the new bed.

Setting at SeaTac airport, heading to Kalispell, MT to finalize our purchase of a new Toyhauler....

Thanks Nigel!

Does anyone have a link to a Webasto manual for a Volvo factory installed heater,  vintage 2008?

When we try to fire ours up, the fan starts and we get a beep and blinking light.  

We found on another forum, someone stated that the blinking light is a fault code, but we can’t find a manual anywhere online so far.

Nice work!

I believe there is a check valve on the front of the engine, at the top, that has caused problems for folks.

We have a D13 engine, though I remember reading about the D12 issue.  You might look on YouTube, as well as the Resource Guide on this site.

With a Volvo 780, the weight of your foot can also greatly reflect a big change to the mpg readings.

While these are great posts, please add any further ones to the Ressurected Diners Drive-ins and Dives thread

46 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

We need to revive that Road Food thread..........

Charlie's in Omaha, AR has good breakfasts.

I was just thinking about that.  I will search for that when I get home.  Good idea Rickeroo!

But I turned myself around!

Welcome aboard!

21 hours ago, Chad Heiser said:

Sitting in the Winnemucca KOA on my way to the WCR.  This is a newer KOA right off I80.  It is easy in and easy out and the sites are decent size.  I have enough room for my 42' 5er and my (short wheelbase) T2000 end to end (unhitched).

Chad,

Thanks for the report, we are planning to use that KOA later in the year for an ATV trip.

A truck with the D13 would do the same, however, it should also give the warning on the DID as soon as you turn on the key.

2 hours ago, Dollytrolley said:

Planning to break camp this morning here at the edge of Death Valley with the latest cold snap down to 91f today.........will likely wonder up the Great Smokey Valley thru Austin where the forecast is up to one inch of snow.......maybe Dollymomma might throw the chains on the eight drivers and four trailer tires.....maybe not.....

 

Would like to hit and run the WCR but Dolly-the-paint-horse is aboard and she would eat the RV park lawn and then do ......do, do like horses tend to do.....besides we are afraid she might pick fights with the dogs at the Rally.....we have tried to teach her to bark but so far she still makes horse like sounds.......

When we get to Oregon we have a date with the district attorney's office to arrange for some justice for the scunbags that took several hundred thousand of the mother n laws savings........looks like we will get most if not all funds back.......it's not been fun getting old when folks rob geezers.....

 

Maybe next year we could drop by the WCR and by then Dolly will bark like a big dog.......she is sorta big at 1,050 lbs..........

 

Drive on........(your not likely not too lost as long as you still have 200 gal fuel still in the tanks....)

 

 

 

 

 

Safe travels there DT!  We will keep ice on the cooler while your gone.  Give a holler when you get back and we can get together for Mexican or American.....

There is a check valve at the front of the engine, right near the top.  I have heard of several folks, including bmzero on this forum, who went through the expense of changing out all their injectors, only to find that the check valve was bad.

The tech is correct, the fuel/water separator does not need to be changed until it shows fuel near the top of the bowl.  The reason I asked about it, the black cap has an o ring that can leak air and with a new filter, it is possible to lose prime.  That would be indicated by no fuel at all in the bowl.

When you changed the filters, what did the fuel water separator look like?

15 minutes ago, Jack Mayer said:

No doubt that is true, at some point. But I've tapped a fair amount off the input side without an issue. Of course I use LEDs. But for sure it is something to be aware of. If you are going to go crazy with lights then I'd recommend that you use those junction strips as a signal wire, and use a relay.

The use of a relay would definitely be a possible solution, it is one of the options that Volvo lists.

If anyone wants specific information, there is great coverage about the Light Control Module (LCM), in the Volvo Body Builder Manual.

Another solution would be to run a separate feed of truck lighting, to a terminal strip located in the Jackalopee Bay, referred to as a Den or Nest depending on how sloppy your wiring job is....

1 hour ago, Jack Mayer said:

The purpose of the strips is to tap functions in the future. 

For example, on my drom boxes with LED light strips on top....I tap the separate stop BEFORE the Jackie so the the center of three light srips can function as an individual marker/stop (no turn). You cant do that with the Jackie alone. I've also tapped for various other purposes both on the input and output sides.  Of course, if you don't need these "functions" then just run a Jackie like Phil does. 

While I like the idea of the terminal strips pre and post of the Jackalopee, I believe that if you are not careful you could create another problem for yourself by tapping off of the terminal strips to power additional lights on the truck.

In working with the honorable David Dixon as we are designing a rather complex wiring harness for lighting of the new bed that I am building, it became apparent that there are two distinctive set of light circuits, with one being specifically intended for the truck and one for the trailer, with all being monitored for fault reporting.  

You could wind up with a situation where the fault monitor told you that there was a problem on the trailer running lights, when in fact it was on your truck dorm box, or whatever you powered from tapping at the pre-jackalopee terminal strip.

2 hours ago, Brad NSW said:

Own a 13,500lb Montana, towed by a 2003 Dodge Ram 3500.  Thinking about retiring and full timing in the next 3 years.  Want to get an HDT to carry a 4 wheel drive, street legal golf cart and build a custom storage cabinet behind the cab.

Welcome Brad!

.

35 minutes ago, Big5er said:

Newnan? Heck, I blew two tires and punched a hole through the floor of my old travel trailer in Newnan. First tire had a major tread seperation and took out the second tire. Together they took out the floor, the drawer under the oven and the furnace located under the refrigerator. We hung out in Hogansville till the insurance adjuster came out a few days later. If ya see the missing cups out of my muffin pan or the lid to my crock pot along I-85 I'd be grateful if you would return them to me.  

We have some friends who live in SoCal and a few years ago they bought a new toy hauler and brought it to Rexburg, Idaho for it's maiden voyage.

When they were heading back home, driving through construction on I-15 in the middle of Salt Lake City.  The spare tire to thier F-450 fell off from underneath the truck.  The tire went back and took out a couple crossmembers and pushed the gray and black water tanks up, halfway into the trailer.  The problem is that they had no idea when it happened.

They pulled into a truck stop south of SLC and found the wonderful surprise.

We were somewhat lucky because we had been traveling behind them, but had a tire come apart and had to deal with that, so we were not in the kill zone when it let loose.

Great story, thanks for sharing and congratulations again. 

Interesting, thanks!

we are seriously contemplating installing a solar system when we upgrade Toyhaulers next year.

John

Excellent post and information, Chad.

what would you say is a rough ballpark on cost of a system like that, minus the generator.