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About aztex

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  1. Thanks! I'll keep all signs off the rig for now. Maybe registering as a commercial vehicle has advantages but I'll not consider for now. At least my tax guy knew when he was in over his head! In the 72 hours I had not heard from him he consulted an expert and found a one time special depreciation that put my return in the category I wanted. Since this was for 2018 and I clearly bought the Airstream, renovated for work and attended a craft show where all work was done inside the trailer I think I'm on firm ground. Going forward may be another matter. I'll have to consult an RV tax expert if such exists! How much do I have to work in it? What sort of work must be done to maintain it's business asset qualification. Who knows if I'll continue along this path. I guess I could always even store it for shows only and still be business asset.. It's gonna be hard to find an accountant/tax attorney that specializes in my situation.... Thanks, Az Tex
  2. Yikes! never heard of needing a CDL just because... perhaps you mean commercial plates... Not even sure if it matters for business purposes since no business is done inside. I think I may go with removable since no sense in advertising a jewelry business on the road and stickers fade or leave sun tans.. Thanks, Az Tex
  3. Howdy, Perhaps not the best place to post this so any advice simply where to look for help appreciated! But...Nut shell story.. Well my tax guy BLEW IT! After proclaiming expertise with my RV as a business he has proven clueless and I'm gonna be stuck with a bigger tax bill that anticipated. He's been ignoring my contacts the past 3 days.... Looks like I'll have to estimate tax, pay that, and file extension, and then find a competent tax preparer. That said anyone have some advice which direction I should be looking so I don't just hire another fool? Here's my situation: Paid $20K cash on $57,000 RV (another ~$3000 in payments, interest and equipment during 2018) Removed much of interior to make a jewelers bench shop. Clearly set up for work! Spent 17 days last year at shows using it directly as a jeweler work shop. NO business conducted inside! Canopy with displays all out side. Business signage on RV (although I went too cheap and it's weathered and been removed as I redesign). To complicate I've been full timing as well so dual purpose BUT I work and make jewelry fill orders EVERY DAY directly from the RV. Best the tax guy said when last spoke to was a one time 50% depreciation credit but .... that doesn't make sense to me. It's also a $23,000 business expense.. Seems like it may be nice to spread out the depreciation... but if I sell it... confusing... Thanks for any direction you can provide! Az Tex
  4. Thanks again, I guess the trick is going to be "don't try this on get away day" I'll wait till I'm ensconced for a week or two and have time to work it out. Although I bet I get it first try! Az Tex
  5. Thanks, I have the Pollak 706 which is the round black plastic housing and single blade contact. I really just need Airstreams color scheme as since most of not ALL trailers hook up to vehicles without and issue there vehicle side is standardized. SO If I know which pole carries which charge and which color wire Airstream used... easy peezy... The existing is a Bargman molded rubber. I'm thinking the best option is to "dissect" it and physically see which color goes to which pole. But I'm not so sure it would be easy to do... I figure just start cutting away with a fine blade X-Acto type saw.... I wish I was to be in the same place longer... I'm crossing fingers the Toyota ECU update the dealer did solved the "trailer disconnect" warning I was getting but the connection is so loose it has to get changed eventually. Az Tex
  6. Howdy,I have an Airstream 2019 Sport 22FBThe 7-pin on my new Tundra does not mate tightly with the Airstream one. I gather the rubber clad stock ones test as the worst over time anyways so time to upgrade. I have had trailer brake issues and this the last link in chain to address.I ordered a Pollak but understand I should not rely upon Pollak's wiring scheme to work. Pollak fits perfectly snug and secure where the stock wiggles and is loose even with adjusting connectors.I found electrical diagram in manual but only defines 4 wire colors and not where on the plug they go..See attached.. Does NOT illustrate which wires go to which sockets. Supposedly colors vary and not reliable indicators of what they power.. Is there a trick to do this quickly and properly? Thanks, Az Tex
  7. Seal is fine... holds water. Always has a cup or so No smell 99.9% of the time...just today and once before when it got hot. Fantastic Fan as needed, usually off. My concoctions are pretty mild but as I said a look inside down the hole looks pretty "clean"... Seems like the odor wafted out and drifted back in via fan out let which is only ~3 feet from the vent as it was as bad or worse outside..
  8. Howdy, This is the second time when weather ramped up into the 80's my black tank just reeked! What I've been doing up to now is Happy Camper with a 1/2 cup of Calgon and 3/4 cup of laundry detergent. If some bleach at hand ~3/4 cup of that. Today was the worst though! Oddly the Happy Camper has been miraculous is cleaning the tank. Last time and this time I filled to 80% (the stink started with 30%) and drained and following flush brought out clear with no debris, slightly tinted.. I peeked inside last time and could see clean plastic bottom of tank... SO I'm getting it clean and am baffled with the odors... Vent must be working as the odor was stronger out side! Any hints for an emergency odor removal? Dumping the tank seemed to work ok. I was considering a good gallon of bleach and fill tank with fresh water over night... It's a new coach only 3 months of use and meticulously maintained. Thanks, Az Tex
  9. Some of the carcomplaints.com from as recent as 2016 have some disturbing NTSA complaints BUT they make so many diferrent versions and they all fall under F150.... I like everything about this truck but want it to last 5-10 years... like my Toyotas..... So much "cooler" than the Tundra which is my only other choice.... Thanks, Az Tex
  10. Howdy! I just found a Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost FX4 at an amazing price! Back in the 1980's I did not have the best luck with Fords and have been a happy Toyota guy since. Ready to switch out of a Tacoma to a Tundra but deep research and hands I'm luke warm on them. My concerns are the typical; under powered, low payload.... But the fact I have close to 1,000,000 trouble free and I mean absolute trouble free, not even a flat tire on 25+ years of Toyotas has me apprehensive.. I've studied all I can on the F150 but can't find what sort of longevity to expect.... I can imagine 500K from the Tundra... Turbo charge always breaks down first... I guess we only have 4 or 5 years of these current gens of the F150 so maybe not enough of a baseline to see if they will be rolling smooth at 500K..especially towing... Thanks, Az Tex
  11. Howdy, I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseum but could not find a thread with multiple searches... so... I was shopping around for a better insurance deal, either better coverage or cheaper or both and found mention of full time vs. part time coverage. I currently have Geico insurance bought when I was still living in a house. I've only been on the road about 3 months and while feel committed to the lifestyle that could change. I'm using/"renting" a friends address for banking and have used that as a residence as I weigh options in the coming months.It seems to me I can have a much cheaper deal as part time and so far I am! I declared I'll stay ~100 days a year in RV and it's only been 70 so far! Is full time more expensive? My Progressive quote is $671 as-is. I'm AZ resident and own a business there too. Does having auto and RV insurance with different companies make sense? Cheaper to bundle? Progressive said they will not insure my "stuff", guitar tools etc only RV gear and suggested renters insurance. Will full time provide more protection? Will playing my current game of part time back fire on me down the road? Is there a good article covering this in an Escapees magazine or other online resource? Thanks, Az Tex
  12. Thanks All! I signed up! Scored a FHU site too so if weather ramps up AC should suffice for an hour or 2 at a time. Looking forward to it! Az Tex
  13. Have you tried Craigslist for RV spaces? I found a couple last week in the $800-$1000/mo range. Not bad for SoCal rates.... Usually nice properties that would just be your rig... Worth a shot! Az Tex
  14. Well cash is king but if you have a steady income and a hefty down see if you can strike a deal you can easily swing. I went into dealer with X dollars wanting to pay no more than 5% of my monthly income for X years and was able to make it happen. It actually came together too perfect and freaked me out a bit! I didn't even have to negotiate too much but was able to squeeze the dealer a little bit. Not sure if the 5% is too much based on what a financial advisor would say but I was easily blowing that on books, music, movies and guitar stuff which is no longer such a habit... I got an Airstream as I was looking at a recent used model and brand new was only $4000 more! They seem to fetch ~85% new value in the first 2-3 years so not too bad. I can already walk away with cash in my pocket although I'd take a hit on initial investment... what I mean is its worth more than I owe.... If you do finance make sure you get a good insurance quote! My dealer swore it was only ~$10 a month on top of vehicle but more like $75 to $125! Check storage fees too if you have to house it! Can be another $50 to $200/mo! Az Tex
  15. Yea I didn't think any logical explanation for this other than WRONG! It looked more drastic in real life. I was tempted to unweight the front a little bit but was afraid it would flip over! When I first got my Airstream I was just slightly unbalanced and it felt like driving on ice! I can't imagine this rig actually going down the road in any semblance of straight line... A T
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