ashton23l

I actually dont think its a big deal.  during my time in the Army, i never needed any real math skills.  the people that really need math skills, like Intelligence and topography and maybe artillery will fail out of training if they cant do it and be recycled to a different MOS.  and the people that want those MOSs probably dont need calculators anyway. 

I appreciate it! 

thank you 

13 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

What I did was measure the length I needed. Bought a piece of 1/4” thick by 4” flat aluminum plate and made it the length I need. I would say I staggered holes every 8”

Do you have any pictures?  im not sure how flat bar would provide any structural support which is why i was thinking channel or angle.  I had not thought about aluminum, which would surely reduce the added weight.  

thank you for the reply. 

my main slide is 12'6" and is sagging in the middle, on the top, this has created a water leak,  when it is stored, the slide is in and there is no problem, but when we are using it and the slide is out, if it rains, it leaks because the seal does not touch the top of the slide in the middle. I use a metal bar that is for the bed of a pickup truck with a ratchet mechanism to push the slide back up.  that works fine, but i want to fix it so i dont have to do that every time.  i am thinking of taking all the trim off, putting a piece of steel channel in it, drilling and riveting the whole length of the slide and then replacing the trim.  is this the best way to fix it?  does anyone have any other ideas? 

so when you get to your destination, do you have to unbolt the end to take it down?  if so, do you use wingnuts to make it easy?

So, i got a 2007 hurricane on a ford chassis, the other day, coming home in the pouring rain, the windshield wipers got stuck on the outside,  i turned them off and then back on and it moved but stayed stuck to the outside.   i turned it off again and drove into a parking lot to get lunch, i was close to home and figured i would check it out when i got home.  since it was raining so hard, i figured the water on the windshield would provide the lubricant needed to allow them to move back to center, i turned them back on after a bit and forgot that i turned them on. i got out and grabbed lunch, when i got back in, the smell of burning plastic was ridiculous.   so i turned it off and got home, then after it all aired out the smell was gone, I have not torn the dash out yet, but i am assuming the wiper motor died and the continued electrical current with a bad motor probably started to fry the wires in the dash.  how much of this will need replacing?  motor obviously and if i can find the wires that got hot, ill change out connectors, but is there anything else?

4 hours ago, Kirk W said:

When I turned 70 the VA stopped paying for me to have a colonoscopy and the doctor said that it was not need anymore. My primary care physician, an internist who has a largely geriatric practice, told me that it is because they & many other medical practices stop treating colon cancer in patients who are past 70 because they don't think that you will survive the treatment and it is expensive. She says that I should not stop getting them as long as I am mostly healthy, especially since my sister died from it. 

 

I work for the VA and i would schedule you in a heart beat. I put in colonoscopy consults in for vets all the time up to their mid 80s.  more often than not, they dont want them after that, but I would schedule it if they wanted. 

18 hours ago, RV_ said:

I used to hear that old saw about college or white collar can't do mechanical work and that is just hogwash. I have been both. It used to really irritate those who tried that one on me when they found I had degrees and then I'd ask if they wanted to see the house we just renovated and the cars I restored/built. Most really liked my workshops and tools. I have met blue collar who can't fix their own plumbing or cars and lots of white collar types who can. Of course there are always a few poster children for every negative stereotype man has invented. But that does not make them the majority.

Exactly,  I am a medical professional and I own a metal fabrication/welding shop.  I built my own shop and am restoring a 1956 ford truck. I hunt, fish, camp, travel and would be considered "a mans man" by many, but I also cook very well and wear scrubs while caring for the sick and elderly.  every person is different.  most of the physicians i work with have wood shops, or work on cars, or hunt and fish and most of them have RVs.  I think some of it is geographical as well.  many of the people i work with came out here after med school because we have the mountains for skiing and hiking and fishing, and we live right next to lake tahoe for water sports. 

nope, didnt change anything. i was going to, but i forgot, so i thought i would just try it. 

I didnt pay for roaming, i just took the dish with me and figured i would see what happened.  I went to a low capacity area and had no issues at all.  in fact i ran speeds around 160 the whole time. 

I was going to say 500 would be your best shot.  honestly, take out the few good parts, scrap the whole thing and sell those parts. the stove might be a couple hundred, some of the lighting might be a few dollars here and there. but it aint worth much.

12 hours ago, Vladimir said:

Much of it was a cultural thing.  Traditionally, most RV'ers came from a blue collar background and most "green" people come from a white collar background.   I know white collar, professionals that REFUSE to even step foot in a RV and are appalled that I own not one, but TWO RV's.  Nice people, except when it comes to RV's.

I mean, that's a pretty big generalization.  I have known plenty of blue and white collar people throughout my life that are RVers, I am a medical professional and I am on my 3rd RV, I work with multiple surgeons and nurses who travel all over in RVs.  I also know construction workers, loggers, and many others in RVs.  i think it depends on what activities  they like outside of work, not what they do for work. 

I LOVE my starlink.  i have gotten better speed in the middle of the mountains while lakeside camping than i do at my house. last time we went out with family, we stayed for over a week.  10 campers used my connection everyone could stream music, videos, netflix and I was able to do all the homework i had. its awesome. 

that is the location and also the cause of the leak. but... how to fix it is question. 

my big slide in the living room sags, it leaks a tiny bit if the slide is out in the rain,  not always, but it has a couple times. i am going to tear off the trim and replace, but how do i get the sag out?  I have a few ideas with steel tubing, but over that span it will sag a bit as well.  anyone have an idea?  one person told me to put up brace from dinette to center of slide, i could make it look like a post that is supposed to be there by using the lathe but the wife says no way because it doesnt look good... 

im going to check the vents.  I usually drain the grey via a water hose into a field or wherever i am.  so i dont think it would be the grey.  also, if you flush the toilet, its like a gas bomb hits you in the face and thats the same smell. so i am fairly certain it is the black.  but i am going to try all.  i think i will install tank sprayer in grey as well. 

I have a 2007 class A that we bought in Feb of this year.  when we have full hook ups all is well, when we dry camp and use the toilet all is well until we start to move. then it is like a porta john is open in the living area.  once we dump, it gets better very slowly, like over a week or so.  WHAT IS GOING ON?  ive never had this issue with any RV that i have had.  I installed a tank sprayer, that seems to help but is there not a vent or something?  i put water in the toilet bowl to make a seal, no real noticeable difference.  i filled the tank and put in the black packets and left them for 2 days then dumped again.  it helped at first, but it returns everytime we travel with anything in the black tank.  any advice ?

23 hours in, one time had some surging, i rocked the altitude knob back and forth and its all good. otherwise shes running well and hasnt had an issue yet. 

12 hours ago, packnrat said:

talk about heavy duty. i like it. no money now, but in the future i will buy it, as metal is always better than plastic.

I think i like the plastic more. i am in the desert, if it gets too windy, i would rather the plastic break than the ladder be forcefully removed from the RV. 

1 hour ago, Chad Heiser said:

I use Flagpole Buddy ladder mounted flag poles and mounts.  I have used them on three separate RVs with no issues.  They are the best poles and ladder mounts I have found.  All the people I regularly camp with liked my set up so much, they have also gone with Flagpole Buddy for their Rv’s.

This is exactly what I was looking for. thank you!

Id like to fly the flag of our great nation when i am parked in the most beautiful spots in the country.  i was going to buy the pole that has a plate you drive on, but i see the ladder mounted pole.  are these good?  will it rip the ladder off if its windy?

**UPDATE** well, I’m sold on the carbhub carbs from Amazon. I bought 2 just in case. A 10mm socket and flat blade screwdriver had it switched out and running in 15 min. It starts east now, runs smooth and works perfect. For the first 2-3 min it surged but hasn’t a single time since. It now runs better than it did with the original equipment. Hopefully it keeps on keepin on. 

Because of the trip, I bought 2 cheap ones and 4 extra plugs. I’ll get through the week one way or the other! I’ll report back on my luck 

1 hour ago, Ranger Smith said:

Amazon will allow you to do a return within 30 days. Buy it and try it. If it does not work properly return it as defective.

The only issue there is I’m going on a 7 day boondocking trip in 2 weeks. I need it to work! 2 kids under 2 with no a/c in 90*+ heat isn’t gonna work