Overthinker

I'm selling my BD5 if you are still in the market.  Has GM puck system.

Thanks for the input.  Hopefully I will have some updates soon.

Nice work and explanation.  I found a plate on Amazon that advertises 1/8" thick.  I ordered one to try.

On 7/21/2022 at 10:37 AM, TXiceman said:

You can take a screwdriver or punch and dimple the fingers that go around the pin.  This will deform the plastic enough to give you a tighter fit.  My lube plate is going on 10 years old and has been dimpled only once and it stays in place.

 

Ken

I ordered a 3/16" and a 1/8" to see if I can get one of those to work.  Looking forward to cleaning all the grease off that I applied after ours wouldn't work.

On 7/19/2022 at 4:28 PM, HERO Maker said:

Are you adjusting the trailer height a little to see some space above and below your pin (especially without a plate)?  Sometimes if in a bind, I would put the truck in N, release the brakes,(and the tension) and then slide right out.

WOW!  I submitted the above and it never went anywhere!  It's the same thing everybody else is saying.

Yes and that's one. of the most frustrating things, I can see a gap.  I spoke with Henry and he had  thinks it's probably the "fingers" on the jaws.  He suggested dropping the jacks and nudging the truck slightly backward and applying the parking brake at that point.  We probable won't have another trip for awhile so we will see then.

I appreciate all the replies, I'm sure it will become second nature and I'm going to try your suggestions.  I also like knowing how things work and I'm trying to figure out why the ET is so much more cantankerous than the Trailer Saver.  No breaker bar needed (which I didn't get one with my ET) and as soon as I opened the jaws, no matter the angle, the kingpin released.

1 hour ago, SuiteSuccess said:

I do the same as Av8r.  Never had an issue releasing.  I also routinely put axle grease on the jaws and upper plate.  Messy but seems to make things smoother.  I am also able to use a thin lubriplate.  David Dixon (NukeE) with Deep Space Lighting at one point offered some thin lubriplates.

Definitely interested in a thin lube plate as the one we had isn't compatible with ET. I'm not a fan of a greasy top plate, but greasing the jaws is interesting.  

We took our first trip in our new Volvo with a new ET Senior hitch and experienced several issues.  The most troublesome problem we are having is the hitch doesn't want to release the kingpin.  We haven't experienced this issue with other hitches and was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what a possible solution might be.  We aren't using a lube plate because we found it wasn't compatible with the hitch.  The only times we didn't have a problem were when the trailer and truck were both completely level and the on asphalt.  If everything wasn't completely aligned and the trailer was on dirt, gravel, or sand the jaws were still under so much tension they would drag the trailer as we attempted to pull forward.  We could essentially hook and unhook our trailer saver from any orientation without issue.  We might be going back to the Trailer Saver if asphalt and perfect alignment are a requirement for the ET because that is a rarity for our use.

It's registered as a motorhome and we've already purchased the porta potti, microwave, and working on fenders.  Bed design is in my head and to come.  We will be pulling our 5th wheel and will be using it as a dual purpose vehicle.  I'm planning to essentially use it as a pick up since I traded mine in.  I know, It's going to get interesting.

Time to add brake controller and hitch.  Would like to know of any other must haves or suggestions.

7 hours ago, Moresmoke said:

You can Y from the diagnostic plug without an issue, so long as you keep the added length to the Canbus wires fairly short. Typically, there is a Canbus terminator located near the diagnostic port. The terminator is a couple of resistors that have the job of preventing echo on the bus. If you end up with a branch circuit in the Canbus that is too long, it can induce reflectance (echo) and cause communication problems.

Also to note on the red wire of the brake controller, it serves two purposes. As noted above, it provides a signal to the brake controller for when you activate the brakes. It also provides power back to the brake light circuit when the slide bar on the brake controller is activated. It is important to have the red wire connected in the right place, or you may end up applying the trailer brakes manually, and not having any brake lights.

So is the right place for the red wire when using a DirecLink where Henry has it in the picture?  I feel confident he's correct but just curious.

Used this thread and the cliff notes version and after looking at book realized Green needs to be longer for marker lights.  I think the jumper will be fine.  Yes, Henry's wiring looks better and I still can't find the other 4 cover screws.  I'm wondering if it was assembled with the 2 to hold the cover on and the others were meant to be installed later and it was overlooked.

Just started wiring my Jackalopee and the cover only has two of the small screws with O-rings.  I can't find them anywhere, does Henry have a clever hiding spot that I'm missing?

On 6/15/2022 at 5:52 PM, podwerkz said:

 

Good catch on the safety factor.

Brand new class 8 sleeper trucks are required to be equipped with a sleeper net. (occupant restraint system!) 

Not a bad idea to pull it out of its plastic bag and using the hooks installed around the sleeper or bunk opening, put it in place and leave it there when the kiddos (or anyone) are riding in the bunk. 

This net might be stuffed under the mattress or in a sidebox. While you are looking for it, make sure your hazard kit (triangles, spare fuse kit, etc) and fire extinguisher plus bumper hooks (if equipped) and owner's manuals are all there.

Your dealer SHOULD spend some quality time with you, and especially should go over the customer delivery checklist to make sure everything is there, and everything is working.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I agree with everything you said.  Plan to install seat belts and I've been looking at the possibility to install a net for the entire sleeper area for use while driving.  I've never been a fan of people roaming around in motorhomes while driving.

I hope to spend an hour or two with dealer going over everything.  We ordered essentially every option available and I have no idea how to work most of it.  Our dump truck has a shifter, clutch, brake, throttle, and PTO; that's about all I know how to operate.

I'm so thankful you are posting this, just at the right time.  Hope to be doing my install next week.

Thanks everyone,I hope to see you out on the road soon.  We have a trip scheduled for CO and then time to get home and start on the bed.  I'm hoping not having fenders won't beat me up too bad on this first trip.

10 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

Bring two wires from the DirecLink to the Jackalopee blue and red, I'll have more "tips" how to wire the Jackalopee later today on the thread I started below. 

Thanks!

So I'm getting really excited and I want to let everyone see our new truck.  Picked up the ET hitch today and getting the truck Thursday.  We've been going through the ordering process since October of 2020.

11 hours ago, lappir said:

Nice looking truck. Congratulations. 

 

Rod

Thanks, we are definitely excited.

That doesn't sound good, we have an 8 hour drive home on Thursday.  Hope we make it back.

10 hours ago, podwerkz said:

I offer a free beak-in service. Over the next 18 months I wont charge you anything to drive it thru several states and various weather conditions. I will let you know how it handles everything.

Again, no charge!

 

😎

 

 

 

 

That's awesome lol!  I wouldn't mind someone to drive me and the family around.  My wife wouldn't tow with the dually but says she will drive the new truck so I can rest haha.  I will probably be even more stressed out.

33 minutes ago, hatrack said:

 

Volvo 16 pins OBDII connector wiring pins to go to a J1939 connector if that helps. I have the Directlink on a 2020 Volvo VNR 640 and the heavy duty kits makes it plug an play, the wire from & to Jacklope I used a 12awg 4 condutors SOOW cable and it has been flawless for @ 3 years now.

Pin Number     Signal
3     J1939+
5     GND
6     ISO15765+
11     J1939-
12     J1708+
13     J1708-
14     ISO15765-
16     BATTERY

Wiring Connections for the adapter:
Volvo     Signal         J1939
5     Ground         A
16     Battery     B
3     J1939-H     C
11     J1939-L     D
12     J1708+         F
13     J1708-         G

Ken....

Thanks for being so thorough.  Maybe it will make sense when I get the parts here.  I have the Jacklopee and ordered the Direclink this evening.  According to your post I need to order the 16 pin HDT module kit and it should be plug and play other than one wire running to the Jackalopee.  I'm a little nervous about wiring the Jackalopee up on a new truck and installing the ET hitch but I'm sure I'll figure it out.  I have about 2 weeks to get everything done before our vacation.

After over a year in planning and waiting, we are going to pick our new Volvo up on Thursday.  Thanks again for the help in ordering our options.

Anyone know how many pins are on the OBD II port on the new Volvo’s?

13 minutes ago, trimster said:

I've had this newer revision of the Hayse Air controlled brake controller for 2 yrs now. The older model with a rheostat instead of a solid state module, failed. The updated version seems to be working as advertised. Available cheaper through resalers:

https://www.hayesbc.com/product/air-actuated-controller/

The systems that plug into the port under the dash are easier to install, and smarter. This one requires a  bit of under dash and feeding an airline through the firewall. Not all that hard. Took about an hour.

 

Does the Hayes play well with the Jackalope?  I see the other suggestion is designed to work with it but you have to purchase another part.