Tylerak

4 minutes ago, Phil D said:

I'd question the model year of the truck, were I you.  Have the seller send you the VIN to verify it.

Detroit Diesels were pretty much a proprietary offering exclusive to DTNA brands (Freightliner, Sterling, and Western Star) by the 2003 model year.  Most non-Daimler brands installed their last Series 60 engines in 2001 model year trucks.  There may have been a straggler or two, but it's hard to imagine that Peterbilt discovered that they had a leftover S60 ratholed somewhere after the 2003s went into production.

You are 100% correct I double checked and it is a 2001 I don’t know how I got 2003. So I guess the only way to get a 60 series would be a glider but I doubt many peterbilt guys would want a Detroit over a 3406. If you search truck paper and make a detailed search for 359,379,389 with Detroit’s they are few and far between and they are asking a premium for them.

Off topic but a couple months ago I took a job as an electrician at the Daimler truck plant in Portland Oregon. I didn’t know what Daimler was at the time. We replaced all the hoists, cranes, added tv monitors in each station it shows how each truck is setup, and pneumatic tools on the assembly line. Pretty cool seeing the frames come in and watch them get put together. The axles crews were really interesting to watch. It’s amazing how little there is automated. It’s probably 90-95% man made. No wonder they cost as much as a house. The receiving bay would have probably 500 engines and transmissions. The emissions systems look like little nuclear reactors with 15 different sensors, too high tech for me. While I was working there I was humming “one piece at a time, and it didn’t cost me a dime” I’d need a REALLY REALLY big lunch box to haul out a western star. 

17 minutes ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy All,

I totally understand the reason behind the singled trucks towing the hay wagons, but to me they just look weird and incomplete.

Dave

I like the way they look. Definitely not as tough looking as a tandem but more like a pickup. 

12 minutes ago, noteven said:

Tyler here is a road speed calculator to use to look at speeds, tire diameter, engine rpm.

With 4.11's that truck should have a overdrive 10spd which should be .73 overdrive in 10 gear. 

For tire dimensions you can look at the tire websites. 

https://wellertruck.com/road-speed-calculatorro

I found a picture and zoomed in they are 295/75 r24.5 so 41.95” diameter. I used the calculator at 1500 rpm .73 overdrive 63mph,2000 rpm is 83mph. Sounds good to me. 

17 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

 I found 1937 Cabover that would verrryyy interesting for project. It is on Craigslist in Sacramento California.

  But I cannot post it with my computer. Custom paint   Big block power 

  It sure would be a head turner.

 

  Make me think,   Vern

I just can’t behind the cab overs. It would be nice to have a short overall length but they just look like pugs 😂 

1 hour ago, noteven said:

Hi Tyler - California has canyon roads that require a restricted kingpin to rear axle length on articulated trucks so they stay in their lane on hairpins and curves as much as possible.  The single axle tractor is common in these applications. The roads also have plenty of grades. 

Also the bridge formula allows 20,000lbs on a dual tire single axle, but 34,000lbs on a tandem (I think) - so this may be a factor as well although I am not a bridge formula expert or knowledgeable on weights within the state. 

Most US trucks are not "heavy" compared to what we work with in west Canada. 

A 4.11 ratio would be perfect for hay, grain, bulk cement, or aggregate hauling due to running at full gross weights.  Trucks with high speed ratios in the low 3's or even 2's do not pull like a "low geared" truck when the road is speed limited under 65mph (you aren't "running" at a hill) and the load is heavy, with all else equal. Transmission speeds do not make up for too tall rear gearing.

A DDEC engine will give you good mileage even if you want to run 4.11's at RV tire wrecking speeds 🤣

It likely has low pro tires on 22.5 wheels.  You could do a spend on "standard" tires like 11R22.5 to reduce cruise rpm and pay that back in, like, 1 million miles in fuel savings... just kidding...

The rear axles would normally be 23,000lbs rated with 18" ring gears because yes all the power is to one axle.  

California also has a 55mph speed limit for any vehicle towing a trailer, so 80mph gears are of no practical purpose for regional trucks in California. 

In a California truck when you turn your wipers on your headlights will come on.  "I know, right?" 😀

Here are a couple short videos showing typical CA hay truck configurations. 

Kinda work a day trucks: Loading Hay Trucks

And a fancy rig: Hettinga's Hay Hog I'm a KW guy but I do appreciate a well dressed Pete.  And how bowt those trailers? 

You will also see tandem drive flatbed trucks pulling a single trailer. 

You will see these trucks working all over between horses, dairies, and feedlots and where the hay is grown. 

The single drive double trailers config is also common for bulk cement, aggregates, etc in the region. 

Very interesting, I noticed all of the trucks in those videos have the low profile tires. That’s so weird I’ve lived in Washington for a while and they just haul hay with regular tandems and trailers with 8 wheels. California always has to be special I guess haha. That one truck with the coffin sleeper is gorgeous I think I’d like that one. I’ll have to see how I like the 4.11s if I can run 65-70 no need to switch. My trailer has Goodyear g614 commercial tires at 100 psi. Only fear now is spinning a bearing in the axles. I generally tow at 65. I’ll be keeping the tires I think they look pretty cool. Thanks for the information 

14 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 Quickly reading most of the replies and your own ideas, buy it. You have a better grasp on the physics of class 8 operation than most. It does not matter if it is a standard 10 or super 10, they both work fine. If you can weld vertical up, you can operate either trans. 

 That 12.7L is THE most awesome engine for your purpose ever. Reliable, efficient, and as you already know, the least expensive to replace or repair. It is easy to drive. Just dont rev the engine when engaging the clutch. Like doing a test welds prior to the job, a few drives on a back road learning to shift, is all it will take.

In 2003 that truck should have either low air leaf or flex-air suspension. Both are awesome suspensions. The flex-air when single, will have some lift under acceleration, but nothing to worry about.

Thanks for the reply I have nightmares thinking about learning vertical up again, I’m probably the most naturally ungifted welder on earth. With a couple hundred thousand rods burnt I could probably do it behind my back blindfolded now. Hopefully I’m more gifted with a 10 speed. 
Everything I’ve heard about the 12.7’s has been good. Only thing I’ve heard to watch out for is the bull gear. Sounds like you can get a peek at it through the auxiliary cover. If it is bad I’ve found the replacement bearings and you can get them pressed in for a fraction of the $1700 rebuilds. I’ll check with the seller to see what suspension it is. Thanks for your reply. 

3 hours ago, noteven said:

Hi Tylerak - welcome

That truck looks like a California hay hauler to my eyes. They are ordered as factory single drive so the brake system is all engineered and configured for single drive. 

That Peterbilt will be light. That business specs for payload (see the small fuel tanks) and low suspension, tire profile because of high cube loads. 

That business also runs some of the nicest and most well cared for trucks this writer has ever seen. 

 

The pictures of the interior definitely indicate it’s been taken care of. The owner says it was singled from the factory and everything is original other than some chicken lights and cute stuff. The fuel tanks are pretty funny looking they look like they belong on a day cab. The bed is still in the plastic I don’t think the sleeper was used very much if at all. California has a lot of singled trucks I’m not sure why but a good place to find them. You say they’re setup for payload is that why it’s got 4.11 so they can lose weight on axle and fuel and run the single as hard as they can? Is it setup extra stiff on suspension or anything that would be troublesome? What’s unique about the tire profile? Thanks for the reply you sound very educated on this type of truck. You don’t see them everyday. 

On 6/30/2020 at 1:48 PM, steiny93 said:

When we purchased the volvo 610 it was hyper easy.

Initial thinking was to use cash on hand as per this site we assumed getting financing would be a challenge. Previous to purchase we happened to be in a local bank and they had a tabletop advertising crazy low interest rates for rvs / boats / vehicles / etc.  Since we were also buying a 5th wheel at the same time I figured I would ask them about the financing options.

The bank didn't treat the hdt any different then a vehicle or an rv.  Ours started as private truck in SD which we then converted to an RV in ND.  The bank was all good with it.

What bank?

1 hour ago, lappir said:

I have the 12 liter Volvo motor. Had 800 thousand and some miles on it when I got it, turned over 900, 000  a couple years ago. To my knowledge it has not had any type of overhaul. I have some white smoke if I go from highway speed to a rest area occasionally, but it runs well and there isn't oil in the water or water in the oil that I can see. Set the cruise at 70 and it just rolls down the road. I do have the three pedal auto shift so I have to clutch when I start and stop. I can hit the resume on the cruise at 20 mph exiting a rest area and not have to do anything but steer till my next stop though. Having a fully manual, you won't have that luxury. It's not that I mind shifting, but do try a 10 speed and a super 10 before you buy one. I'd rather have a 13 than either one of them. 

 

Rod 

I’ve had 4 automatics in my life and 2 manuals I definitely enjoy the ease of the automatics but I also enjoy the connection to the vehicle with a manual. I’ve encountered  many tasks that require immense hand eye coordination and practice for example stick welding, tig welding, bending conduit, skeet shooting, heavy equipment operation, etc. it all feels like brail but with time it’s just second nature. I don’t doubt that an automatic is very nice cruising down the road but  most of the time we take the interstate anyway. Hell from Oklahoma to Washington we were on the i40 from Muskogee to California haha not much shifting. We all have our preferences and as we age and with experience they change. I currently don’t have a tow vehicle so you are way above me, I don’t think we’ll be going too far for another year. If this covid crap ever eases up we plan to make a trip up to Alaska where I’m from where we’ll stay for the summer. My last truck spent more time in the shop than on the road and it’s transmission exploded like a grenade an hour into the trip to Washington. As long as that doesn’t happen again I’ll be smiling ear to ear i don’t care if I’m shifting as long as it lasts and doesn’t cost me money to fix. I hope your Volvo keeps it up sounds like it’s been good to you. 

38 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

Here is the link for posting larger pix. It's a little clunky, but it works. Jay

https://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/130466-picture-posting/

Thanks forum’s are always so tricky to use. I probably won’t mess with it, my question has been answered. Thanks 

8 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

  Can you get any pictures of the engine compartment. Maybe some more interior photos also..

 

   just thinking Vern

 I have them but they are too big and I don’t know how to resize on my phone so I’ve been sending the pictures to my computer to resize then send them back to my phone. I still have your email I can send them to you. It has a new bed in the sleeper what appears to be leather or vinyl walls and ceilings, rubber floor, fabric seats that are dirty I intend to replace them ASAP. Engine looks good and the CAC pipes have been painted orange to match the hood, he took a video of it starting and it cranked right up, he also got a video of everything like alternator, water pump, belt tensioner, harmonic dampener, etc nothing was wobbling or squeaking. It’s an O/O truck and you can tell the owner took care of it unlike a swift or Penske truck. If I can’t get my hands on this truck I’ll be getting something similar I’m sure. Thanks for the reply Vern

2 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Dave's comments are right on point.  I will only add that LIFE happens and when it does, changes come with it.  They are a significant investment and coming to this forum to become educated is priceless.  

I have an IH 4700LP for sale as LIFE happened and I need to sell it.  Somebody will like it and use it, which is what I cant do right now.  Hate to see it sitting.  Its a great truck with only 170K miles but has a big block IH diesel and Allison.  

When I am ready I will buy something that will work for me THEN.  In the meantime, I live vicariously through so many that share on this site.

I am enjoying my journey.

Thanks for your reply I am here because I’m aware of the significance of whatever purchase I make. I am not gonna jump into anything without a great deal of thought. At the end of the day there’s compromise no matter what I do. I’m sorry to hear about your truck everything passes and I hope you get to enjoy another truck and traveling shortly. We’re all effected by this pandemic in one way or another, better days lie ahead. Sometimes a reset is what we need. Thanks for your reply 

3 hours ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy Tylerak,

First off I apologize for the long post, this is something I struggled with before becoming a very HAPPY CAMPER.

Just my opinion, worth what you paid for it.  I like the truck you posted the photo of, two things come to mind immediately.  ONE, Down the road if you sell the truck it's going to be darn near impossible to sell it to someone who wants to pull an RV trailer, VERY FEW want to shift gears or take the time to learn how to do it properly.  TWO, a singled truck has VERY LITTLE appeal to a commercial driver unless they are into hot-shot, type work.

With that said, my first RV Hauler was a 2002 Freightliner Columbia, 12.7 Detroit, 10 speed Auto-Shift, 3.55 single axle with a simple deck on it with a Trailer Saver, air cushioned hitch.  Great truck and I would still be driving it if I hadn't bought a Smart Car.  The cost to rebuild the truck to carry the Smart Car, was money spent that I would NEVER recover in a future sale. Even though the Freightliner was a great truck setup the way it was it was just the ticket for RV use, I never really liked it, to me it just wasn't a real truck, I hated the look, didn't like the condo cab it was much higher then the roof of the toy hauler trailer I have, and it just didn't put the GRIN on my face that I wanted.

I posted to this forum that I was contemplating making a major change in that I WANTED a classic truck, either a Pete 379 Long Hood, or a Kenworth 900 Long Hood.  I wanted big power, I wanted at least 13 gears and if I could find it an Auto-Shift.  It took me a year to find what I was looking for, a 2001, Peterbilt 379, 550 horse power C15 single turbo Cat engine with an 18 speed Eton-Fuller Road Ranger AUTO-SHIFT, this is a very rare truck.  Full gauge package, American Classic interior, chicken lights and chrome.  I can't help it, I lusted for this truck and did fall in love with it.

I went into this with my eyes WIDE OPEN, I knew the Pete would have a much larger turning radius then the Freightliner, I knew I would get fewer miles per gallon, I knew the cab was much smaller and the space between the seats was quite narrow, I knew the front visibility would be MUCH less the the Freightliner, I knew my wife wouldn't like the cab space in the Pete as well as she did on the Freightliner, knowing ALL OF THIS; I bought the Pete, put a Smart Car deck on it and have be GRINNING ever since.

I left my truck tandem for two reasons, more brakes and better ride ( I know that is a controversial statement ) AND down the road when it comes time to sell the truck as it is now it will be attractive to another RV Hauler OR to a commercial Owner-Operator.  The deck will unbolt, reinstall the commercial 5th wheel hitch and your back in business.  Think long and hard about what YOU want in a truck, the Freightliner I had was a darn good truck but it wasn't what I wanted, now I have what I want, it gives me great pleasure to drive and when it comes time to sell I am not locked into a very small group of perspective buyers.  An old style classic Pete, Kenworth, will ALWAYS be in demand, plastic trucks not so much.  Like I said just my opinion, no offense meant to anyone, whatever works for YOU as an individual is all that really matters, the opinion of others is simply that, an opinion.

Dave

Thanks for your reply, I figured since the seller already has it singled I’m not really out anything. It’s appeal is already limited so the price should reflect that upon purchase and sell. I know in my heart a plastic truck will be affordable and comfortable but if I know it has egr, def, dpf and an automatic I will feel like I’m driving a big suv. I know I want a short hood small sleeper and either a DD 60 series or 3406. As far as transmission I am leaning toward manual although pretty much open to anything. My preference is a 10 speed an 18 speed would be fine but a 10 speed would be sufficient. I hear what you’re saying about keeping it tandem you can tow a jeep, resale is better, no extra expense to single, two extra brakes, incase of a flat easier to limp, etc. downside more expensive to maintain, higher toll road fees, theoretically harder to register as RV, wider turning radius, less mpg, etc. I like the idea of finding one already singled since they are already facing the problems of resale you stated. I will consider what you’re saying because you’ve made good points. Thanks for your input. 

8 minutes ago, steiny93 said:

 

Sounds like you already know the answer (value / practicality) but have fallen in love with this one

Follow your dream, be eye's wide open concerning the realities but at the end of the day it's your dream, enjoy it.

I don’t love this exact truck but I do love this exact configuration so I’d have no problems waiting on another. It seems like a good truck though. The owner has sent me videos of it starting and running, walk arounds, pictures of flaws, and it seems like a good purchase but I’m just skeptical since it’s a big investment so I was wanting some second opinions. Looks like we’re running at 50/50 some people are fans of newer comfy trucks some are fans of classic trucks. I know I can become attached to ideas so I’m trying to remain as detached as I can. Mechanical integrity is #1 above everything. I plan on getting an oil sample sent off to get analyzed, and verify the overhaul was done by a reputable shop. Thanks for the reply

3 hours ago, steiny93 said:

My input,

I haven't looked at prices for a bit (prolly two years), but an '03 singled with those miles at $28k seems high.  Seeing newer competing brands at lower pricing in the market place for example via a quick trucktrader search.

Something to consider, when its time to sell and get into the next one, that type of rig is likely not going to appeal with a vast number of the RV pulling crowd.  The RV pullers tend to gravitate to tight turning auto's and with a deck conversion you'll be further away from the commercial truck users.  (not trying to dissuade your dream, just calling out what I've seen in the marketplace)

If you haven't been in a few of the various brands I'd strongly recommend driving a couple and if you haven't driven the auto's I'd really suggest you try one.  I personally couldn't fathom buying a manual for pulling the camper, be really really sure you want that.  For me, lowering the bar so others (wife / kid / etc) can drive became a big deal.

But, if you love it and that's what you want, go for it!

I’m asking on here because this exact truck is almost one of a kind without having the work done to a tandem so it’s hard to get a good idea of price. It’s hard to find a Detroit in a Pete which is my preferred engine in case it needs work it’s not gonna cost 25k like a cat and a little better fuel mileage. I want a flat top sleeper no longer than 48” and the dash configuration makes it look modern, it’s not square and boxy. So that’s the dilemma is I really like this exact truck. I’ve never let anyone pull my trailer I probably would be riddled with anxiety the entire time 😂 I’m a fan of shifting unless I miss a gear going up or down a mountain then I’d be wishing I had an auto but otherwise I enjoy it. 

10 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Trucks, like everything in life, come with compromises. That's a great looking truck, and if the repairs come with paperwork from a respectable shop, should give a long service life. Many here haven't even sat in a truck, before buying one. The Volvo Kool-Aid runs strong. If you're ok shifting, then shift. It won't turn quite as tight as an Areo truck, but if you plan ahead, you'll get in most places they will. It will be a little louder than rear exhaust, but a resonator can help. Longer stacks help, too, and look cool. If you think you can make it work for you, go for it. As far as resale value, assuming you don't go whole hog with RV only mods, that truck will always have value.

Hey I’m liking the company I’m finding with this post. There’s definitely a cool-aid vibe with RV haulers no offense to the Volvo owners those are great trucks. I figured I’d do all the RV work in a minimalist manner. I’ve seen where people don’t install a flatbed just c channel and storage for ramps. I’ll have to have a spot for two of the bikes pictured. Otherwise keep it stock and maintain it. The turning radius would be a concern if it’s not at least as tight as a pickup but I try not to turn tight it puts a lot of extra wear on the trailer.  

4 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

Buy what you like. I happen to prefer a KW but a Pete is just as nice. Some on here like a Volvo but I wouldn't have one for several reasons.

Your truck choice is a personal one that combines pride of ownership, ride, steering, comfort, looks, paint and often, a "cool" factor.

Take several out for a ride, check the mechanicals and make sure they are solid and buy the one that puts the biggest smile on your face when all the factors that matter to you are considered.

I definitely like cool trucks, I’ve always loved the look of a flat top Pete it might be less cushy than a 2020 Volvo but I think the cabs look good inside the classic Pete’s and KW. I’ve been looking online and it doesn’t seem like there’s a lot of trucks nearby. Maybe I’ll call some dealerships and see what they have to get an idea how I like them. This was my 97 Dodge 12v with a 5 speed. I liked having a unique truck it gives you pride going down the road. 

6 hours ago, jenandjon said:

you can fit a resonator under there before the T. Then its not too bad.

I heard good things about resonators with diesel pickups so that would be a good start. If it’s not obnoxious I could tolerate hearing it roar on occasion and the jakes barking. 

6 hours ago, lappir said:

It's a 2003, have you driven it? How many others have you tried out? I'm not saying don't test drive lot's before you buy, just once you settle on one, it's best to not keep test driving. (At least for me. I got a GL 1500 to replace the GL 1200 I Loved because a guy said never ride the newer one. Happened again recently when I thought I wanted a new Volvo. Test drove a 2020 and am trying to figure out how to buy one now. ) That's the reason for my comment. 

I have heard good things about the Detroit and have ridden in and drove a few KW's and Pete's. My 2001 Volvo puts them all to shame with how quiet it is and my 12 liter Volvo motor is getting closer all the time to the Million mile mark. 

Rod

I haven’t test drove a peterbilt similar to this. I’m sure the new trucks are very nice they just don’t do anything for me. My last tow vehicle was a 97 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually 12v turned up with a 5 speed manual and my current daily driver is a 94 Dodge Ram 12v with a 5 speed manual so I’m used to shifting, loud noises, and a bumpy ride. Does your Volvo have a Detroit in it or Cummins? 

15 minutes ago, NDBirdman said:

I've ran straight pipes in work trucks and after a while the drone gets tiring.

I’m not opposed to going to a weed burner with a muffler. 

15 minutes ago, lappir said:

If it's a truck you love, then go for it. If you haven't driven a newer truck or another brand and can keep from doing so until you are ready willing and able to part with it you will be fine. JMHO. 

 

Rod

I love how it looks and from everything I’ve read the 60 series is a great engine. Is the ride bad or is it excessively loud? Why do you say to avoid testing new trucks? I’m not a big fan of egr, def, and dpf so I’ve been looking at cats and Detroit’s. I’m pretty much dead set on not buying a foreign vehicle so it’s gonna have to be a kw or Pete. 

I found this 2003 peterbilt SH on Craigslist it has 1 million miles overhauled 170k ago. It has a Detroit 60 series 12.7 and a 10 speed manual. It came singled from peterbilt has 4.11’s which I plan on changing. Clutch and brakes have been replaced recently. It is in California 230” WB it looks like a 48” flat top. I will be registering in AK. Price is 28k what do you think? I’m a certified welder and licensed electrician so any labor converting will be free. Thanks for your input. 

Are there trucks for sale at these? 

35 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

BC, no. Alberta, yes, with length restrictions and trailer type restrictions. Sask., same as AB. Manitoba and East is beyond my experience.

I definitely will be driving up to Alaska so we will just have to drive the tow vehicle occasionally. 

4 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Mostly on the gulfcoast, Texas,  Louisana. Oil refineires

Remind me to stay away from the gulf coast haha I’ll call around see what percentage say they will take one. I might consider double towing that way I could shorten the rig and drive the vehicle if need be.