rving mr

On 9/5/2020 at 4:59 PM, Ray,IN said:

Ok.. was thinking the same.. TY

On 9/5/2020 at 4:17 AM, kurtsara said:

I like that, weekend worrier. 

I love it. But it is to heavy for my truck(supped up 1/2 tun). Will be selling it after my new build is complete. My build is for off road. Only problem i'm having is i'm 6'4"... So top heavy is hard to advoid on hard shell.

On 9/5/2020 at 5:34 AM, Kirk W said:

There is more to the answer than what we know here, as the best answer depends on what make your RV is, what is the frame made of, how long is the trailer, and what is the surface that will be supporting the blocks you place under it. If you are parked on a solid, paved surface that will not allow the supporting jacks to sink into it over time, then you can probably safely level it and lift the tires, or better yet remove them to some dark place. If you are parked on any surface that may allow the leveling jacks/blocks to sink and at an uneven rate, then I would be very cautious about placing all of the RV's weight on those jacks/blocks. Also, a steel frame will take much more constant stress than will an aluminum one. 

Ty... I'm on clay. I did us a vibrator plat device.. Kinda looks like a lawnmower with a snow sled on bottom. I'm hoping that made ground solid anuf to prevent sinking. 

I don't see any jack pints. I'll be siting here for at least a year. And I wanted to take stress off the tires. I mainly want to know if the frame can handle all the w8 on the bumper end during blocking. The teder toder method. Right now I have it slightly lifted on 6 jack stands. 2 stabilizers that are mounted on back end/bumper area. I dowt thay are level/square. It might warp it. Thats why I want to correct it by leveling 4-6 block method.

Hi all

I have a 29 foot weekend worrier camp trailer. It has 2 axles. Should I block it next to tiers and/or is it safe to block it at back end of frame by bumper ? I'm trying to prevent frame warp/brake.

k.. thanks again

ok.. ty I was kinda thinking that. I just need'd a second opinion.

Hi

Can I unplug/disconnect inverter/charger during shore line power ?

On 12/14/2019 at 5:50 PM, chirakawa said:

Where will you be camping?  If boondocking, you'll be challenged to carry enough water for too many 23 minute showers.  You'll also fill up your grey tank quickly.  So, for boondocking, I'd say take outdoor showers and bring an extra water tank.

If staying in RV Parks, you're not likely to be able to set up an outdoor shower contraption.  I don't think I've ever stayed at an RV Park which would allow that, so you'll need to use the park shower or go indoors on your RV.

Campgrounds are a mixed bag.  Most will let you set up a separate tent or dressing room, etc.  I don't know how they'd feel about you putting all that water on the ground though.  Many campgrounds don't have sewer taps, so you'd be limited to your grey tank in that case.  Long showers would fill it up pretty quickly.

Of course, since you're building your own RV, you can have as many fresh water tanks and grey water tanks as you wish.  You can use a demand type water heater for your long, hot showers.  However, with extended showers you'd go through propane quicker than normal also.

In summary, long hot showers don't necessarily go along with RV'ing that well..............but can be done.

Good luck.

 

I want to start traveling way north(usa). Ill be setting up a similar shower set up as the video's. I want to be super light w8.

On 12/15/2019 at 8:48 AM, noteven said:

If you look on the Campervan Kevin you tubes, he has a video up showing a continuous low water use shower design that the inventor will send you the plans and materials list for. It is well thought out. 

On 12/16/2019 at 6:42 AM, Bill Joyce said:

 

'It is 19 minutes long

TY I spent a few hrs going thru Campervan Kevin you tubes loking for this.. I gave up.

Good stuff. Would Epson salt burn eye's 😜 I live wear its cold and I have lots of fresh water(Over 80 gall tanks). I also will have to be plugged into power so i'll have live water feed. If and ween I get solar panels and wind turbine power system I will definitely be making similar set up  for ween I go camping.

I steal need to know if the rv will take damage from taking long showers in it every day !?

7 hours ago, Kirk W said:

Are you planning to buy an RV and then set it up permanently in one location? The things that you are asking seem to indicate that you do not plan to move the RV much, if at all? 

I'm hopping to be very mobile. I have a big rv right now but Ill be selling it to get money for my project.

I'm working on getting a small 5th wheel trailer frame and gutting a different trailer to make a small 5th wheel toy hauler. I'm hopping by making it shorter it makes a big difference in weight. I'm not having much luck yet.. Finance wiys. I want to do all my weight meshermints befor buying/modding a truck.

On 12/3/2019 at 6:43 AM, noteven said:

The awnings on my dream machine are going to be made out of sturdy solar panels.

Meanwhile I never tempt fate with my RV quality stuff...

If the snow was of the dry fluffy falling straight down and going to melt tomorrow variety I might have the awning out to save the mess on th porch when it melts. Might. 

Sounds cool.. Is there good flexible solar panels these days (fold able) ? Would bee awsum if you could give a drawing/photo of the design idea you thinking about !

Hi all

I was thinking about making this just with insulation board r10-20+. I defenetly need a out door room for drying laundry and I will be making a small RMH (Rocket Mass Heater) for drying.

And may bey add water heating and turn it in to a shower/dry room.  Or I will be upgrading my RV's bath room but I am concerned about condensation/moister/water damage. Should I be concerned about condensation/moister/water damage? I like super hot water and about 17-28 min showers. I don't have any thermometers to give you an idea other than wen I shower at house's I pretty much have the hot water max'd out.

So should I shower outside or in rv for long hot shower's ?

Sounds like the only option would bet to apply some kind of defrosting. LOL I might use part of a car port/tent to make a patio awning. Something with a greater slop angel.

Hi all

Any Idea on how a person would go about having there awning out during snow fall ? My roller keeps un rolling if I don't have awning fully extended(are all models like this or is myn broken ?). I was afraid to have 100% out du to snow w8.

I try'd it for a bite but I constantly was sweeping off the snow.

LOL you gata see this:

22 hours ago, Kirk W said:

Just water may work if it has not been too long, but in most cases that I have observed, it took more than that. The ice cube thing may work to clean the sides of the tank, but probably won't do much for your problem. The Master Blaster or similar tool may do the job since it hasn't been too long. 

                                                                               U

I suggest that you mix up a few gallons of trisodium phosphate in a very strong solution and allow that to soak a while and then agitate it by towing around some before dumping. That product was recommended to me in a seminar put on by Thetford quite a few years ago. 

the wand thing is what i'm going to try first for bulk.

21 hours ago, 2gypsies said:

It sounds like you don't have enough room in your tank to use a wand. I believe they're mainly used after dumping to clean the excess & walls.  If your tank is so full adding hot water won't do anything.

I never heard of a product called 'tank blaster'.

Definitely forget about ice cubes.  That's a myth!

Good luck.... work on it before things freeze!

 

Freeze is a few hr away now LOL

On 11/24/2019 at 7:15 PM, sandsys said:

So, you'll need to pack tools as well?

It doesn't matter how good your design skills are if your frame and axels can't carry the weight you need.

Linda

No I live on a big property at the moment. But I can rebuild a engen with less 80lb of tools.

On 11/25/2019 at 8:05 AM, Lance A Lott said:

I know many, many, people who tow 2 horse with small dressing room horse trailers with 1/2 ton trucks. They would hold a snow machine fine and still give you the gooseneck for sleeping. You might even find a small living quarters(LQ) if you look around. Also as has been said not all 1/2 ton trucks are the same, my neighbor pulls a 25 foot or so travel trailer, it has bunks and looks good size, with a Toyota, when he traded he got the same thing so he must be happy. I will not speculate as to his gvw.

Ty good idea . It will give me the frame to work with

21 hours ago, 2gypsies said:

People can tow anything they want..... but is it safe?

Tru.

17 hours ago, rickeieio said:

It would appear that the OP needs to do a lot of homework.  

lots 😜

15 hours ago, Kirk W said:

The natural process will take care of any solids in the black tank, as long as you use enough water. Most of the fulltime RV people stop using any chemicals after a time.  If you use too little water there is no chemical that will resolve the problems. It sounds like you already have a build-up of solids in your tank and you would be very wise to find some way to get that out before it gets any worse. If you do not solve this, you will not be able to empty the tank at all at some point. 

Good. I have not used any chemical but was to spearing on water. I see a thing call'd a swizzle stick or some thing like that. I will try a wand of some sort. And if that don't work I'll try tank blaster(chemical that site's over night).

13 hours ago, SWharton said:

Do you keep you black tank valve closed between dumpings? It i critical that you do.

Yes. I have portabul tote that I dump it in to and than compost it.

11 hours ago, sandsys said:

Here's how you dissolve the mound of solids if you have one. Fill the tank all the way up with water. Let it sit for as long as you can. The water level will drop as the mound dissolves. Add more water and let is drop again. Keep repeating until the level no longer drops. It will then be liquified so you can dump your tank. A friend of mine used this on her system (bought used) and that of a friend so I know it works.

Linda Sand

I see a thing call'd a swizzle stick or some thing like that. I will try a wand of some sort. And if that don't work I'll try tank blaster(chemical that site's over night).

I also saw a article stating ice cubes. And another one stating hot water. 

1 hour ago, 2gypsies said:

You're asking two different questions.  I know nothing about compost from black water. 

However, your toilet may be backed up because you're not using enough water when flushing or using too much toilet paper.  A good working toilet shouldn't need any additives.  All we every used was plenty of water and no smells or clogging issues.

Cool ty. I'll start using more water. I wasn't peeing in it due to save space/time for dumping and I have not look'd to see what ph it does to compost. I thout every one use the tablets to reduce smell and liquify paper and clunk(pooh).

4 hours ago, sandsys said:

I looked at the two examples you gave and realized your snowmobile would take at least 1/3 of the trailer's carrying capacity. How do you plan to live full time with so little space and capacity to store anything? How much does your snowmobile suit weigh and how compactly does it compress? Do you plan on eating only freeze-dried food to keep that weight down? I'm curious as to how you plant to live full time in such a unit.

Linda Sand

The snowmobile will be parked out side during living. The videos (in my opinion) are terabul design. I can make crank down racks or cargo nets that mount to the ceiling during transporting. I might have some space on top of roof. I have not started designing it yet. I'm steal browsing to see if there is any easier way to do what I want.

1 hour ago, noteven said:

What is the make and model of your snowmobile?

I have not started shopping yet. Most likely I pick up a junker to work on.

Hi

I have been making a compost with my black tank. After 8 months now I noticing my black tank is not emptying all the way and is getting full (clogged by toilet). Is the desolvant tablets bad for soil ?

22 hours ago, 2gypsies said:

Could you please go over once again what you're trying to do?  Sorry, I'm just confused at what you're trying to achieve.

You state you already have a toy hauler & you showed a pic of it in your beginning post.  It appears to be a bigger one than what you're now looking at.

You then asked about doing extensive renovations on the walls/windows.

Now you seem to be wanting to get rid of that one & get a small one.  Are you still planning on all the renovations?

What is your purpose for the RV?  Are you living in it?  Letting it set on property & never moved?  The small one you're now looking at has small holding tanks and absolutely no outside storage.  How many people will be living in this?

You mentioned towing a snowmobile trailer.  You can do that with a truck.

Correct I have a bigger toy hauler.

I'm no going to do the renovations if I can find a smaller toy hauler with a 5th wheel hitch. I will be putting in the garage door mod.

I plane on traveling/living in it 24/7. Its just me for now. I want to store/haul a snowmobile.

I don't like expensive big trucks.

Most likely I will be building a custom frame because my specs are almost impossible to find.

11 hours ago, sandsys said:

 

That's an entirely different scenario. Most of us think camper when talking 5th wheel. There is no such thing as a 16' toy hauler that is also a camper. Why would it need to be a 5th wheel to haul a snowmobile? Most people use bumper pulls for those.

Linda Sand

There is a few small one but not with a 5th wheel.   The smallest bumper hauling I have seen is 18 feet. I don't know whats standard for measuring 5th wheel hitch that's why I was unclear on my lengths. 

5 hours ago, Kirk W said:

Have you looked at RVs at all? It doesn't seem that you have any concept of what is available to buy. I suggest that before you do more planning you spend some time visiting as many RV dealers as you have nearby. 

I live way in the boony's. most civilization is half a day + away.

I saw these . thay r ok but if there wer a 5th the bead could be above the 5th wheel hitch

Is the length bumper to the over hing(over truck bed) ?

6 hours ago, Randyretired said:

A bumper pull small trailer is often lighter than a 5er.  For a small trailer I would think with the right hitch setup it would pull just fine.  A 16-18' light weight trailer behind a heavy duty 1/2 ton truck should be a good setup.  All 1/2 ton trucks are not equal.  Be sure to follow the manufacturers towing guidelines.   Most feel that it is important to stay well under the maximum for a comfortable setup.

I'm trying to go small. I like 1/4 ton truck's so I'm thinking I can get a 5th wheel set up and have beader chance of using a 1/2 ton mod'd truck. I'm seeing I might have to make my own toy hauler frame to get one light, small tall and with a 5th wheel. LOL fire up the tig.

5 hours ago, sandsys said:

If you go up one foot longer:

https://www.scamptrailers.com/showroom/19-deluxe-trailers/19-deluxe-trailer-layout-a.html

Linda Sand

I'm thinking 5 feet less. It just needs to haul a snowmobile.

4 hours ago, 2gypsies said:

So now you're thinking of going from a toy hauler to a 16-18 foot trailer?  That's quite a change.  Or would this be your traveling trailer and still keep the toy hauler stationary?  You'll have small windows with a small trailer.

ops.. I forgot to post that I want it to be a toy hauler.

4 hours ago, Kirk W said:

With a half ton truck you will be pretty size/weight limited. The Scamp is one of the few fifth wheel trailers of that size but Escape 5.0 TA is another one but at 21' in length and with a gross weight just over 4,000#.

I might have to go with a bigger truck.

If a person had a 16-18 ft 5th wheel toy hauler (i cant find any) does the 5th will make that much of a difference on smaller trailers ? I would like to tow with a 1/2 tun truck. I could always mod the truck to handle more load. I like small truck's.

On 11/18/2019 at 9:05 PM, Randyretired said:

Air leaks are a major culprit in trying to heat a RV.  Many feel air infiltration control is more important than insulation.  Air leaks also make a room uncomfortable in cold or hot temps. The best part for RV's is sealing air leaks doesn't add a lot of weight. For the divider my choice would consider what will best seal, is light weight and inexpensive. Single pane glass or plexiglass will likely have an R value of 1.  Simple multipane units might have a R value of 2. I think you can gain more by by covering a well sealed partition with a blanket or insulated curtains during cold times like at night.  The same thing for the windows and door.

Powering electric heat with solar is a formidable and very expensive task.  Most likely requiring the roof of an RV to be completely covered with solar panels and a large battery setup.  Heat pumps are more efficient but still will need a very large solar array and battery  bank.

 

ty . I'l try insulated curtains. the heat pump is cool. I'l be setting up a micro wind turbine and collapsible A frame roof/solar panels. I have a lot of electronics.

On 11/18/2019 at 9:55 PM, Randyretired said:

If you are living in an RV during really cold weather condensation is most likely a major problem. This is especially true with single pane windows.  The mold and building material rot will quickly destroy an RV.

yes last season I had to constantly towel down every thing around windows. This time I have a bunch of that silicon tubs. I don't want to go with a dehumidifier if I don't have too.

On 11/19/2019 at 5:32 AM, Kirk W said:

To add to what Randy has stated, windows are also very heavy and dual pane or high quality single pane windows will increase the weight and could create balance issues if only added on one side. Be very careful in your construction. 

True. I might go with a small/lighter trailer. Or ill have to figure out how drop some weight. I have no experience in hauling trailers.

14 hours ago, Kirk W said:

Windows are always a heat loss area but if the windows are dual pane that will help a great deal. The same is true for skylights. When it comes to adding them, you would need to know how the structural frame members are laid out to be sure where they could be added. 

11 hours ago, Randyretired said:

Windows rarely are anywhere near as good as minimal wall insulation.  We covered over a living area skylight on the outside and added insulation.  It made an immediate difference.  The 5er was warmer in the cold and cooler in the summer heat.  South facing windows often bring in more heat than they lose but since RV's have little thermal mass these aren't practical.   The best multipane windows are filled with special gas to slow heat transfer but very few  have R values near 7 and aren't practical for RV's. Typical RV windows even double pane are very inefficient. Lots of RV's have R7 or better walls.  I like the light of windows also but the insulation value is a definite minus.  

9 hours ago, 2gypsies said:

Sounds like you want to do a major renovation... French doors, skylights, more windows?  In addition to structural changes you'll not only be loosing heat but loosing cooling capacity in summer along with loosing wall/cabinet space.  Doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

5 hours ago, sandsys said:

People who live in cold places who have windows and skylights often stuff them with insulating materials just to make the unit livable. A friend of mine just hung a blanket over his door to reduce heat loss there and she lives in Texas.

Linda Sand

3 hours ago, dirtyboots said:

Are you wanting to take the wall out between the kitchen/bedroom and garage?  If so, I understand what you are saying.

My toyhauler has a plexi glass slider between the two and it works great.  The slider frame doesn't take up the WHOLE wall but is positioned via frame work about 2' from the street side wall and about 1' from the curb side.  The frame work of the trailer itself remains intact.  You loose a bit of height, about 16" from the ceiling and you do have to 'step over' the framework on the floor about an inch which isn't a problem for me since I'm short.  A custom frame might be doable.

I didn't find any pictures in a quick search on-line but if you want to look it's a Forest River Work and Play 30WRS. I have cooling and heating ducts on both sides of the divider and spend lots of time in the garage...but do use an extra heater when it's cold outside.  I also leave the slider open most of the time since the garage is my living room.

TY ALL for you'r responses.

Ok so I'm skipping the sky light idea.

My toy-hauler dos't have a divider in between kitchen and garage. I use the garage as a man-cave/office. 

This is similar too what I'm wanting. Its definitely going to be a DIY(home made). Should I go with supper thick plexi glass wall or the thickest multi pane glass on a frinch door set up to suport/prevent glass from braking ? A sliding glass door could work. I would just have to make small ramps for the inch lift from the sliding tray framework.

Wen I save up more money I might look in too upgrading my windows pane. But my ceilings are pretty high. One of the things I love about it due to me being to tall. So I might just set up solar power and use heaters.

TY all for your time an interest