Tim and Peggy

25 minutes ago, Ray,IN said:

I''ve had a TPMS since 2005, I believe in the system. I use that extension to adjust air when necessary, approx.  2X a year when the seasons change from cold to hot and visa versa.

so you are not "monitoring the pressures" while you are on the road. I use Tire minder which is fine. Probably over-thinking it..ya think?

Thanks.

10 minutes ago, Ray,IN said:

I carry a 6" metal valve extension, If needed I use it then remove it and store in my toolbox until next time.

so absent any monitoring system, how often do you check pressures? I know that I am over thinking it, but I just spent $4,300 for six new tires last year and don't want to buy new ones...thus the monitoring preference and long stems for inside tire (no more extensions...not reliable

Thanks

37 minutes ago, jbh said:

As Linda said, long valve stems are the way to go. I've had them nine years, no problems. Tried extenders, which leaked.

I agree with Linda and that confirms my suspicions about these damn things. As Peggy also says, it's only money. But cheaper then new tires.

Thanks.

Good morning -

I went to a tire place yesterday and they will check the tire next week. But what I found interesting is that they will not install extenders. They said they are prone to fail and their logic is pretty sound. I am wondering if you have also heard people saying that.

I called a friend and asked him if he had extenders on his inner wheel and he said no. Will check with local Goodyear dealer to get yet "another opinion."

On 8/2/2021 at 3:04 PM, Tim and Peggy said:

Thanks Rod,

What is bizarre (in my opinion) is why, while sitting idle for a few weeks it suddenly starts leaking. Oh well, will get it replaced but those extenders are presumably more susceptible? Bought the tires last September in Maine, traveled across the country, currently in Seattle.

Thoughts, as to "why all of a sudden"

 

OH, as my wife and I say, "there is always, something." 

 

23 minutes ago, lappir said:

Always have them put in new VALVE STEMS with a  replacement tire. You don't want to run a brand new tire with low pressure and ruin it before it get's any miles on it. There can also be bead issues if you haven't actually broken in the new tires. They need several heat and cooling cycles to relax the rubber and get everything seated well. 

 

Rod

Thanks Rod,

What is bizarre (in my opinion) is why, while sitting idle for a few weeks it suddenly starts leaking. Oh well, will get it replaced but those extenders are presumably more susceptible? Bought the tires last September in Maine, traveled across the country, currently in Seattle.

Thoughts, as to "why all of a sudden"

OH, as my wife and I say, "there is always, something." 

I purchased new tires for my 40 foot rig last September and this has happened 2-3 times. While sitting idle, once in a while my tires will loose pressure. The last time it happened, the stem valve on the inside rear tire needed to be replaced.

I just checked pressure this morning (with Tire Minder) and another inside tire on the opposite tire has lost 20 lbs. We have been sitting for 3 weeks. All other tires are at 115 +/- and this tire is reading 99 PSI. Seem odd that it happens and wonder if these long stem valves are susceptible to failure or slow leaks.

Would love some feedback, ideas, suggestions.

1 hour ago, LindaH said:

We boondock/dry camp about 98-99% of the time.  The tanks on our current RV are about 30/30/30 and we can go a full week before we have to dump (we do carry three 5-gallon water jugs to fill the fresh water tank between dumps).  We might be able to squeeze a day or two more out of it, but I'd rather play it safe than wake up in the middle of the night to use the facilities and find that the black tank is completely full! 

If we had tanks your size, we could go at least two weeks between dumps, maybe even closer to three weeks. We are very judicious in our use of water, taking navy showers (which we do, anyway, even when we're at home), not keeping the water running while brushing teeth, etc.  

We have a 4,000-watt generator that runs off the motorhome's gas tank.  In the winter, when we're boondocking at one of the LTVA's, we'll fuel up on one of our trips to town to get propane.  We get propane about once a month and we top off the gas tank maybe every other trip (it's never below half).  We do have solar, though, so only run the generator for about half an hour first thing in the morning to get a head start on charging the batteries while the furnace is running.  Then we use it during the day if we need to use the microwave or other AC item that we don't run off the inverter.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "portable" water tank...maybe you meant "potable" as in your fresh water tank?

At any rate, see my comments above.  Gray and black tanks of 51 gallons each and a fresh water tank of 91 gallons would last us at least two weeks, and probably closer to three.  But that's us...we've had a couple of decades experience boondocking/dry camping.  

I suggest doing what 2gypsies said -- go to an RV park, fill your fresh water tank and make sure your gray and black tanks are empty.  Then go about your daily living using just the water in your fresh water tank, being judicious on your use of water and see how long it lasts YOU.  You won't be able to run your generator in an RV park, of course, but you'll get an idea of how long your water supply and tanks will last.  The more you boondock/dry camp, the better you'll get at conserving all of your resources.

typo on potable....and to reiterate, cannot imagine, people won;t like the generator running...but I suppose it is not all the time, but when watching NCIS, CNN, etc. 

as suggested about trying it out in an RV campground is that I don;t imagine people like the sound of the generator running, but great idea, conceptually.

Spoiled, lazy or naïve???

My wife and I are full-timers and somewhat embarrassed to admit that we've not dry-camped once in the 21 months. We keep talking about it, but fall victim to our spoiled, yuppy nature (and maybe laziness) to find a state park of nice area of the country to dry-camp. The questions, of course abound. 

1. How long will the black/gray tank last (  I know what the issues are there). 51 gallon capacity on both
2. How much fuel with our 10,000 watt generator last (I suppose that depends on how much diesel I have in the tank).
3. Portable water tank (e.g. showers) how long will that last. 91 gallon capacity 

So has anyone dry camped and if so, how long is realistic, given these #'s.

I know there are many, many variables.

Thanks.

18 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

success, sort of

So attached is a measure of success. I pulled the filler strip out (carefully) and guess what, the bolts that I thought were holding the microwave to the roof or frame are holding the bracket to the microwave. As you can see, there our three bolts on the right side that hold the bracket to the side wall and one on the left side.

Wife says, now hire someone to come take it out and install the new one. I don;t have the right tools to reach in a small space only 2 inches high and the damn bolts are about 8 inches inside. My fat hands cannot get in with enough strength/torque to loosen...let alone re-attach. 

So at least we know it can/will be done. Going to the floor of the Gran Canyon tomorrow and will have someone come over on Tuesday, hopefully to "finish."

3 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

At this point, I'd be looking at breaking the spring clip holding the nut against the top of the micro. Assuming that you can see both screws.

IF I can do that and it releases the unit, what about the installation of the new one which surely depends on bolts from the top. Right? Anyway to talk by phone?

15 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

How old is your unit? Ours is the original Camco/GE in our 2011 Newmar and long since discontinued. There were no other units I could find that would fit properly and look like the original install, so I really wanted to fix the one we had. Yours looks like a challenging situation and one where I would definitely prefer to fix it, rather than demolishing the entire slide to get to it. Good luck, Jay.

2016 Thor Tuscany

if only that were the case. no evidence of small screws, I too was praying for something that would allow me to remove that filler piece. Thanks for think of that...but.

20 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

This is how ours was installed. The room across the top was removed and screws were driven at an angle through the frame of the micro into the cabinet framing above.

Re the mother board.. Have you looked into rebuilt boards? That's how I fixed ours. There were multiple sites that had rebuilt boards. I picked the lowest price one that sounded legit. The first board had a stem problem, but the board worked. They shipped out another board pronto and the unit is still working. Jay

I have tried several website searches and no luck yet. The model has been discontinued and will keep looking. So are you agreeing with me that it will be a major undertaking to get access to the screws/bolts? I pulled slide in and the area where the bolts must be is covered with rubber membrane for the slide roof.

Thanks. Love the graphic, will have to look for it, very cool.

There is no cabinet above.

which that was the case but mine (apparently) has two screws from the top. see picture below.

no easy way to get to it. Remove molding to try and gain access to top of screw to remove. Seems daunting at least.

thanks but no access top/behind microwave.

Thanks, but the top of the appliance is flush to the top on the cabinetry/molding and crown molding on that, see picture. if they are there, would love to find them.

Life in an RV. So I need to order a new control panel (mother board), but that part and model of microwave is out of date. So, I got to buy a new Microwave, same size, etc. BUT, I cannot get this one out. It is held on the wall with a standard mounting bracket, but as most of you know, you generally have to tip the microwave at a moderate angel to detach it from the bracket. So there i no room ABOVE the appliance to do so and the molding is one piece.

Would love any ideas how to get the damn thing out.

See attached picture.

Hello. So we Indio, CA at 10:30 and it was 95 degrees. We had a 322 mile-trip to Williams, AZ. It was HOT and I turned on the generator (while driving), I heard it come on, but the A/C never started. It was so hot inside the coach that one of our two cats almost over-heated. The A/C in front of the coach (was working)  but clearly could not overcome the heat. 

I am not sure why the A/C didn't start. Any ideas? Should. When we got to destination it had cooled down and the A/C worked fine. 

Thanks and the cats thank you for next time.

"They" as in the manufacturer. I used Gorilla glue and electrical tape...we'll see.

Have a 2016 Thor Tuscany and the screen on the lower portion of the door is starting to pull away from the frame. Unlike most screens I have seen there does not seem to be any ability to pull the gasket out, cut a new piece of material and put in a new gasket. 

Has anyone seen this condition or do you have that kind of screen door? If so, how did you repair/replace the screen?

Thanks.

John and lenp, you two are so far over my head. I am printing out your replies (thank you). I am thinking about buying the following battery. What are your thoughts?

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/rv/dual-purpose-(starting_cycling)/12/sli34agm

1 hour ago, oldjohnt said:

Good practice lenp, the less the depth of discharge and the fewer use of the limited number of "Life Cycles" the better for the battery. While its true its best NOT to discharge Flooded Lead Acid over 50% in 50 years of RV ownership I tried not to go much over 30% discharge and like you it has paid off in extended battery life. Over my RV years Ive gone full circle from starting batteries to dual purpose hybrid so called  RV/Marine to Full True Deep Cycle FLA then to AGM now researching Lithium, I enjoy the technology...

Best wishes everyone

John T