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COFLTravler

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Posts posted by COFLTravler

  1. Oh boy...the damage I could do trying to cut my canoe in half...I really hate to part with my Old Town 16 footer though...

    Still looking at this Porta Bote concept..

    Mark

  2. Thanks to all for providing input.....as Big5er said "it ain't happening...."

    Need to look closely at the Seaeagle..been looking at the Intex Explorer K2 Kayak, 2-Person Inflatable Kayak - anyone have one and have good words?

    Thanks again to those that responded, always get a good response on this forum.....

    Mark

  3. Time to ask the experts....I know someone out there has an idea - other than just sell the canoe.....

    Trying to figure out a way that I could haul my 14' canoe on my rig.  Putting it on the Fiver is a no go due to the height.  Really don't think I have enough slope to mount it over the Smart towards the back of the cab - thoughts?

     

    Mark

     

    Truck Small 2X.jpg

  4. I've seen a few folks mention they have used and stayed at various HH locations.....anyone had a problem with showing up with an HDT?  I imagine just like RV parks, calling ahead and letting the host know of our rigs is best?

     

    Mark

  5. On 3/19/2021 at 9:00 PM, billr said:

    FWIW I picked up a Milwaukee 1/2 drive fuel impact at Home Depot. I was in need to get wheels off and this fit the bill at $250.  I already had 5 Amp batts. 

    I know it’s not the higher rated impact of a 3/4” but it’s perfect for my use. It pounds off the lugs with over 1000ftbs  and able to tighten them without over torquing but real close when torqued checked. 
     

    Came in handy on the Morryde suspension I had to replace. 
     

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-with-Pin-Detent-Tool-Only-2766-20/302675406?MERCH=REC-_-pip_alternatives-_-313511878-_-302675406-_-N&

     

    So I elected to go with the Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" and wow quite the tool. 

    I ended up not using the cheater wrench for torquing... was not impressed - may work great for removal but did not use...

    Man am I glad I changed my disk pads...they still had some life left as the indicators showed (not much),  but they were a mess breaking apart....

    Just another job done on the rig...or should I say just more money gone.....

    Mark

  6. On 3/23/2021 at 9:11 AM, rickeieio said:

    Thanks all.  First, I'm going to call Lazy Days RV/Progressive back and hope I get a different person.  When we bought our truck 11 years ago, they were very helpful, but I'm hoping the girl I talked to this time was simply out of her realm of expertise.

    Yes, we're technically "on the farm", as our house is included in the policy with the rest of our holdings.  The underwriter will write the truck but either as commercial, or farm, with a 150 mile travel radius.  After 35+ years with this insurance company, I'm not anxious to switch.  They take very good care of us.

    I'm guessing the "Millers" Denver suggested is not related to Millers in Oregon?

    Any update on the saga?

  7. 1 hour ago, Scrap said:

    How can you tell you need new pads without being able to take the rear wheels off?  Can you see the wear notches with wheels still on a Volvo?  That's a frustrating thing on the KW's.  Be sure to get a pocket full of new shear adapters.  Those are frustrating as well.

    Hey Scrap,

    Yes you can see the wear indicators as well as some of the pad (mine does not have the dust covers).  

     

    So hear I go....decided to go with the Cheater Wrench.  Also ordered their adapter (1" to 1/2"), that you can use a 1/2" torque wrench through the torque multiplier.  They have a chart to set the torque wrench in relation to the multiplier to obtain the "correct" torque.  We shall see - will report on my progress.

    Thanks for all the input

    Mark

  8. Need to ask the experts on the forum..

    Really need new brake pads on my rig - it has disk brakes all around so really easy to swap out the pads...the issue is getting the wheels off and back on...always trying to save a nickel and besides love to tinker....

    What are other folks doing to remove wheels ( I've done a lot of reading about the Milwaukee 1/2 gun as a possible tool)  If I get a torque multiplier to remove the nuts  do folks use the multiplier to reinstall and how do you know if it's torqued correctly? 

     I know besides taking it to the shop?

    Mark

     

     

  9. 1 hour ago, Cotreker said:

    Never touched the leveling arm.  Is there one for each axle or only one?  Picture would be great or come by it is 60 today need this really bad the east bound guy knows me by name.

    My 780 has only one for all the bags.....I know some earlier Volvos had more that one valve.  Here is a pic of the holes...sorry about the mud - dirt roads in the mountains...

    Mark

    ZfsHFLDl.jpg

  10. 1 hour ago, noteven said:

    I posted an idea but on edit I can't see behind and above the boxes at the back of the frame rails to see what's going on there. 

     

     

     

     

    I will post a better picture when I get the truck back from the Stealership....or maybe I won't be able to ....could be in jail if I get caught robbing the bank to pay for truck repairs!!

    Mark

  11. I did some research on older threads on adding a receiver but nothing that fit my predicament.  And yes I know, should thought about adding one BEFORE the bed....oh well.

    Any experts out there have a suggestion on if I could add one with my configuration and not lose my current light panel?

    Mark

    [IMG]https://i.imgur.com/AizKzJRl.jpg[/IMG]1xZrWHFm.jpg

  12. I've been trying to look at the Resource Guide for a couple of days now and can't open it.  It may be my security software (but have looked at it many times before).  Was wondering if anyone else can access it, if so I will continue to figure out why I can't....campgrounds work okay...

    Thanks

    Mark

  13. On 5/3/2020 at 10:41 AM, dan412 said:

    Has anyone replaced the upper sleeper windows in 2011 Volvo 780. The rubber that holds the window in is all cracked. The dealer said I need to replace the whole assembly. Can glass shops get theses windows and the rubber seals or do I have to get them at the dealer.

     

     

    What did you end up doing?  I have the same problem on my 2014 - I see used ones for sale from the scrap yards but what are the odds of the seal being cracked....

     

    Mark

     

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