bmzero

Thanks BMZ. I just check out their site and not sure if the prices have gone up... but they are proud of their prices! With 4 of them in our group, it just may be worth it!

It's a pretty simple tool to use, but not overly powerful without software support directly from Volvo. With it you can change parameters of your ECU, diagnose faults, and read through the various tech bulletins that guide you through suggested repairs. However, if your software needs updating or if you run into an issue that isn't a simple fix (parts swap), you'll need to get on the horn with Volvo and they will usually provide a software update to ensure everything is on the latest version. It's this step that I suspect would be the hard part if you were using PTT as an individual (not an authorized/trained/certified Volvo technician).

That being said, if I had three other buddies that lived close that wanted to go in on one, I would definitely put my share of money in the hat.

Oletimer:

Do you have any info you can share for that 140$ tech tool? Is that for pulling codes? Anyone on the street can purchase??

Thanks

TechTool is the official software used by Volvo tech's to set parameters on the VCU.

You can purchase the PTT hardware and software at https://volvotrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductListing.aspx?GroupId=547, although I'm not sure how it would work when you have to connect your computer to the Volvo network for software updates. I always take my truck into the Volvo dealer for software updates.

I know how much of a relief it is to have your license plate. When I did mine, I couldn't get out of that office fast enough with the plate in hand. I felt like they were going to yell, "Wait, we made a mistake!"

I had the exact opposite experience in Alabama. When they didn't see a Volvo brand motorhome listed in their system, they just added it right there in the office.

Congrats on getting it done.

We have been in Moab, UT for a couple of days. We are headed to Dinosaur National Monument today and will be there for a couple of days. Then, the long trip back to Alabama.

Here's one of the photos from yesterday.

We got to the Circus Circus RV Park yesterday. We're headed to the Grand Canyon this afternoon.

View High Resolution Photo

Canyon RV Park in Anaheim for the next four days. This park is very HDT friendly. This is my 3rd stay here and it gets better every time.

Nice pool, ropes course, two playgrounds, direct access to the Santa Anna bike trail, etc.

View High Resolution Photo

For my truck, it turned out to be a fuel valve somewhere near the head that was bad. Initially, the Volvo dealership thought it was the injectors. Only after replacing injectors did they realize that wasn't the problem. That one really hurt the pocket book. It turned out to be about $250 worth of parts. I went a few rounds with the service manager about that.

The tech's said the fuel prime device (hand pump), located on the lower driver's side of my engine (D16), is also prone to leaking pressure. That might be a good place to check.

I guess I could see a bad cam sensor causing this problem.

One way to know for sure if it is a pressure leak is to prime the system (using the pump mentioned above) and see if that prevents the long start after it has been sitting a while.

I have an 09 with the d13 engine which also had a leak in the manual fuel priming pump which caused slow starting and required priming at times also. I had the fuel filter head/primer replaced and it seems fine now after 300 km. I have to say though that I could tell it had a slight miss or at the least sounded like it was running lean. When I did prime it there was fuel leakage around the primer while pumping.

Mine will also miss after it idles for a while. A quick press of the throttle will clear it up. Sounds like that might be related. Thanks.

Thanks for the quick replies.

Yes, I do wait for the glow plug symbol to go off. I have not noticed any blinking of that light, but I'll pay attention next time.

It turns over quickly. I don't think it's related to the batteries.

I'm leaning toward a pressure leak somewhere. That would explain the sudden symptoms.

Since I have owned the truck, it has started almost immediately after turning the key. Now, suddenly, after a perfect 2000 mile drive back from CA, it takes several (usually three, 10 second key turns) cranking attempts to get her going. After she runs a while, it will crank back up fine. The first time it did that, maybe yesterday evening, it was pretty cold, so I chalked it up to the temperature.

It has been cold here in AL, down to 20 degrees, but this evening when it took a while to crank, it was about 50 degrees. Cold could be a contributing factor, but I would think 50 degrees was warm enough to not contribute to the cause.

Any ideas?

2009 D16

That is insane! How does that ever leave the prototyping stage of development into production?

For what it's worth, that design would work well on a hitch that did not have a fore/aft pivot in it and relied on the pin box for that movement. I doubt that was the intent, but maybe there were different designs for different hitch setups. Just a thought.

Looks great. What did you use for paint?

I have always thought a wireless remote start generator/invertor would be pretty trick and would keep you from exiting the cab to crank it.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200586833_200586833

They have a cheaper version as well - http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200482992_200482992

I don't have any experience with them, but they can be bought at Camping World with an extended warranty.

 

zero,

 

Don't look now........but........you have already started your 'Dream Trailer" build........you just do not know it yet.........unlike most folks who start with building the trailer........you started out........building the hitch first......

 

Drive on.........(Follow my build.......trailer next??)

Ha, you're probably right, but the trailer is a few steps down the road. First, I have to build the bed on the truck. The trailer is at least a couple of years out.

I'm on the fence right now.....

 

If I like the HDT thing, I may start looking for a moving trailer to build at a later date. Boonhauler is itching for another project as his is nearing completion!

If (*when*) I build my own trailer, I'm going to start from scratch. When I started looking at the compromises I would have to make in the design to use an existing drop deck trailer, I decided against it. To each his own, but I don't see the chassis and suspension fabrication being a major hurdle, in comparison to the rest of such a project.

Being 10' over legal length in my home state is not something I want to do....I think the company that built those dollies is not in business anymore either?

 

Traveling through over length once a year I'd be willing to chance. Plus the cost, extra maintenance, and extra work are things I just won't deal with. Hauling the Jeep was just a possible secondary benefit to the HDT,.

I'm not sure if they're in business or not. Someone had one at the East Coast HDT Rally a few months ago. He talked like they were still going strong. I don't know anything else about them.

Here's a thought - http://www.automatedsafetyhitch.com/

The precedent has been set.

Some small OD transporation-only wheels/tires would probably buy you some extra clearance.

Wow. That's a full load. Are you going to have enough turning/articulation clearance?

Ramps look great.

Published spec on the RZR 1k is 119"? They are a tad longer than my Maverick in stock form. I got a bumper that tucked in tighter so I didn't have to pull it off every time to load it in the hauler.

 

I'd never try to side load mine for a trip....I'd have a problem for sure!

The RZRS 1000 is the new model released a couple of weeks ago, built off the new RZR platform released last year. The RZR XP 1000 definitely would not side load.

http://www.polaris.com/en-us/rzr-side-by-side/rzr-s-1000-eps-white-lightning

First trip out since the rally tomorrow! 200 miles round trip and it will be nice to not tow a trailer at snail's pace! Looking forward to the new ride with the loads on the rear to smooth things out.

Now, that's what I'm talking about!!!

I will probably side load a RZRS 1000, which is 106". I could probably get it down to 102" with some transport-only tires/wheels if it becomes an issue.