freestoneangler
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Posts posted by freestoneangler
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5 hours ago, trailertraveler said:
In other posts you have indicated that you have mounted a cargo deck to the A frame of your trailer. The Hensley has substantial attachments to the A frame that must be at specific locations based on the length of the spring bars. Have you investigated whether there is enough room on the A frame for both?
Good point. I did notice the additional parts on the frame and that crossed my mind. I'm going to stay with the Blue Ox for the immediate future and winter travels - simply not enough time to switch. Here is hoping I'm not one who wished I did.
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Found another interesting video of the Hensley - pretty compelling. This approach is definitely a departure from competitors. Funny that the handful of various RV dealers we spoke with when we were shopping for TT's never mentioned or offered the Hensley Hitch. I'm guessing that its price point is simply outside of the markets bell curve?
I've viewed several of the companies and owner videos showing hook and unhooking. Definitely more to it than the BlueOx SwayPro. Also, I should think based on my experience towing that a 45 degree max backing angle would be pretty limiting if not downright problematic (i.e. jammed up at a gas station, parking lot, etc.)? From what I'm seeing, there is nothing more than the box shape connection bar from the tow truck hitch to the trailer hitch - no frame to mount under the tow truck like its biggest competitor - that's nice.
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I just made an on-line inquiry to Hensley Hitches last week and have been really impressed by the detailed response from the owner. He is so confident in his product he'll offers a 60 day no questions asked money back guarantee. Even more, when I said that I might not be using the TT until late next spring, he offers a delayed start time to the 60 day period. This because they are currently offering a discount price and he wants folks to get the best of both offers. They will simply annotate the "start date" on your invoice. Don't see that much these days!
According to Terry, they have not had one reported mishap (sway roll-over) from thousands of owners using their products over millions of tow miles. Still, the $2400 price tag is a big jump. I'm on the fence. Who has made the switch and what are your impressions with ease of install, hook-up/unhook, noise, and ability to back-up while attached?
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On 10/31/2017 at 5:19 PM, Smitty77_7 said:
As with many parks, some are better then other's. And KOA's are no exception.
We've found this to be spot on.
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On 10/29/2017 at 5:08 PM, Ron said:
"This video is the best one I've found that explains the design and theory behind both the weight distribution and anti-sway control. "
Thanks, that video does explain that the only sway control feature incorporated into the design is the tilt of the head which causes a differential tension in the two tension bars when the truck and trailer are not alligned. Since this added tension would be nearly all in a vertical force vector I'm skeptical that it would really do much to correct the sway in a dynamic situation. And, I'm not sure why they think this feature is unique since all the hitches I'm familiar with have this tilted-head feature.
They also sort of claim that if sway does does occur the fact that there is no friction feature in the tension bars allows the trailer to move back into alignment with the TV. Actually this happens with the friction-tension-bar systems also because the tilted head of , e.g., the Equal-i-zer and others, forces the bar on the "inside" of the "turn" to have much higher friction, and the bar on the "outside" of the "turn" to have much less tension, than when the system is in the normally aligned position.
Anyway, I hope this system works out well for you.
Wouldn't it be great to see an independent lab or one of the manufacturers that is very confident in their product set up a test bed to evaluate performance of the various WD and anti sway products? This demo in full scale using a common truck and TT configuration would be very telling.
I spoke with Blue Ox this morning and, based on the information I provided, they feel I am set-up correctly. About the only change they suggested was to increase the bar tension (another chain link or two) and to verify trailer and tongue weight when loaded. They asked if my truck had any anti sway feature (which it does not) as they recommend that be disengaged/off when using their hitch. Also that they have revised the 1-2" height difference, between the TT and TV ball/receiver, to "no more than 1" . He also asked how much camber/flex I see in the bars when loaded - I never measured them but know they are flexed. Typical installations are around 2-3" as measured with a straightedge.
When I see reviews by other Sway-Pro users saying they work good in wind conditions, it keeps my hopes up that some minor adjustment might make the difference
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Funny in that my wife was just asking whether we should join KOA as we stayed at two of them while in UT the last couple of weeks and a couple over this past summer. With them being in so many places around the US, and most in pretty convenient locations, it seems like a decent program. To me they are kind of like the McDonalds of RV parks - held to a certain level of standards that you can usually count on. Their prices were basically the same as what we paid in two other non-KOA parks and overall condition and service not much different. With my veteran discount, joining offers no better nightly discount - only gathering reward points for later use.
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On 10/27/2017 at 3:38 PM, Ron said:
Thanks for reporting back on your experience with the Blue Ox. As I said in a prior post on this thread I still can't see any design feature of that hitch that would work to mitigate sway. I tried to find a technical explanation of how/why it "eliminates sway", as they tout in the marketing literature, but I fail to see any explanation. I've been using the Equal-izer system for over 10 years and have never felt unsafe driving it in any wind conditions. I don't have specifics on winds and direction but about the only time I recall pulling off the road because of wind was a couple occasions when I saw commercial semi trucks doing the same.
Regarding the 750# rating of the hitch; that just barely allows you to have 10% of the gross trailer weight on the hitch. If you intend to full-time with this trailer you might find yourself loading it to nearly its full capacity. In my experience you'll get better/safer handling with 12% to 15% of the weight on the hitch.
I wouldn't doubt that the Hensley hitch is probably the best you can get but it is far more expensive than the Equal-izer and for the size/weight of our trailer I've never felt the need for anything better than the Equal-izer.
Correction... we have the 1000# spring bars. The TT's unloaded weight is 5520 with a dry hitch weight of 500. That's only a 9% hitch weight and most information I read suggests 12-15%. I did check the TT and TV hitch/ball heights and the TV's hitch sits 1 inch higher than the TT (Blue Ox recommends TV be 1-2 inches higher).
We are towing with a 2006 Dodge 2500 CTD. It has air bags which I installed when we had the truck camper. Firestone recommends keeping a minimum of 5 psi in them and mine had about 10 psi at the time the hitch was installed and on this last trip. Not certain what effect this may have on performance of the hitch but plan to ask Blue Ox when I call them tomorrow. I will say that the hook-up/disconnect is easy-beeze and manufacturing quality very good. If some readjusting and/or weight distribution will make the difference, I'd sure like to make it work. Also unclear is optimum position for the chain link/length. I was told link #7 by the technician at Bretz RV in Billings, That will be another question asked tomorrow. I'll report back on what they say as it may help others using this product.
This video is the best one I've found that explains the design and theory behind both the weight distribution and anti-sway control.
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On 10/23/2017 at 11:00 AM, pethier said:
Does is make sense to drain the water tank and then put a few gallons of RV stuff in the water tank and do all the flushing from there?
I would plan on sanitizing the system in the spring, as i have not sanitized it since I bought it.
Other than draining the water heater, what possible things are there to avoid forgetting?
Thetford toilet has no trap, so water heater and the traps in the two sinks and the shower/tub seem to be all to worry about.
I assume that having RV antifreeze in the water tank, the blackwater tank and the greywater tank all winter will be OK.
If you have an outside shower/wash hose, that is an easy one to forget. We just returned from a trip to southern UT. With forecast lows in the 20's at home (MT), I pulled the drain plug on the hot water heater before we left so it could drain in route. After closing the two HWW bypass valves, I used the winterize kit hose to fill lines with anti-freeze. We did not use the fresh water tank and it was drained before we left. I'm not sure there is enough antifreeze in either the grey/black water tanks to cover the valves?? I drained both tanks at our last stop, so other than the amount of water in the lines during the winterize procedure, should be mostly antifreeze in there now.
Last night it dropped to 20F... no putting off maintenance until the next day around here.
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6 minutes ago, trailertraveler said:
We have had a Hensley since 2007. First towing a 27' box (30' overall) trailer GRWR 7500# and since 2013 a 29' box (32' overall) trailer GVWR 9880#. Passing trucks going in the opposite direction at 60-65 MPH has never been an issue. Depending on the width of the highway, I may experience a sideways push similar to when driving a van or box truck. Cross winds and quartering winds have never been a problem. About a month ago coming across central Kansas, we had a quartering wind (10-11 o'clock) that gusted up to 45 MPH according to the Weather Channel. No problem with sway or handling, but the gusts were strong enough that the slide topper unfurled several times making me think the spring had broken. I had to slow to 50-55 MPH because of the slide topper not any issue with the stability of the trailer.
I will also note that until this September I was towing with a 2500HD crew cab long bed that has about as long a wheelbase as you can get in a pickup. I am now towing with a 3500HD Single Rear Wheel crew cab long bed with a similar wheelbase.
Did you tow those same TT's with a different hitch system - or always had the Hensley?
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Well, having just returned from our first long distance trip with the TT, here are my impressions about the Blue Ox Load Equalizer/Anti-sway system. We traveled down I-15 from Dillon, MT to southern UT to see Zion and Bryce NP's. Our fist leg was from home to Springville, UT. The truck/TT handled very well and except for the semi-truck passing effect was a pleasant drive. The winds were quite moderate (<10 mph) along that leg and most off our nose.
The second leg from Springville to Leeds, UT started out windy and grew worse along the way. Heading into Beaver, local WX had steady wind off at about our 2 o'clock at 22 mph with gusts to 35 mph. While controllable and no appearance that the TT was fish-tailing back and forth, it was not a fun drive and I felt like we were being pushed around a bit. We stopped at Beaver for a break and lunch as WX forecast had winds diminishing later in the afternoon. They did a little but not much making the rest of the drive stressful.
The Blue Ox system was installed by Bretz RV in Billings where we purchased the TT. As hooked up, it rides almost level and appears to be arranged correctly - though some information I'm now reading makes me wonder if I do not have enough weight on the tongue. They sold us the 750 lb. tongue weight tension/stabilizer bars which are within the 7500 GW of the TT with max cargo load (which I'm pretty sure we were not).
In all fairness, I really need to get the packed TT axle and hitch weighed to see if I might be hitch light. I plan to contact Blue Ox tomorrow and discuss my experience with them. I will say that if this is the best the Blue Ox system affords, I'm not too impressed and the wind conditions noted above would be all I'd care to battle.
Now it could just be that this is beyond the capability of this or many other anti-sway systems? Not having experience with other TT hitch systems, I simply don't know. For instance, would the Hensley system (often touted as the best) or the Curt Friction system have made these driving conditions easy?
Would like to hear what kind of wind conditions your particular system can handle - or what you simply won't try to tow in regardless.
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Not having the correct set-up for the blow-out and the TT having the winterize kit installed, I opted to do the RV anti-freeze. All faucets running pink. My water heater only has one low point drain port; which I removed and allowed water to drain. I also cracked open the pressure relief valve (located above) to aide in getting water removed - hopefully the majority.
Now a question about de-winterizing. Just use copious amounts of flushing with fresh water? Should the system be chlorine sanitized?Does anyone try and recycle the anti-freeze?
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31 minutes ago, trailertraveler said:
When I use to winterize, in addition to what has been mentioned for the water lines and drains; I would make sure that the fresh water tank and waste tanks were empty. I would empty the diluted antifreeze/water mixture from the waste tanks and put enough antifreeze down the drains and toilet to try to get it to the dump valves.
Dump valves... good point.
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On 9/5/2017 at 4:35 PM, GaryMaryanne said:
It does not have a cold weather package. We plan on leaving here the first week of November and was thinking of heading to Raccoon Valley in Tennessee until Christmas but we are thinking even that is going to be too cold for us. My biggest concern is to not do any damage to our trailer. I figured we would be using a lot of propane we are also going to get some electric heaters.
We do have pipes in the exterior walls and the tanks are not heated. We are hopefully get another trailer soon but can't until we sell the house and get some bills paid off.
In speaking with one of the most honest and informative RV sales people we'd ever come across, he told us that almost all RV's and mfg.'s are different in how they perform in cold weather. Also that the "artic/cold weather packages" have no industry controls or standards by which performance is tested (this IMO would be something the RVIA should consider doing). Certainly an enclosed and heated underbelly provides some of the best margin, but outside connection ports, hoses near sidewalls and in spaces where the warm air does not circulate are at risk. Basically he was saying that, with the exception of the very high end full time designed coaches, when operating in temperatures below freezing YMMV.
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Our TT came with the water pump winterize kit (t-valve for pulling antifreeze into water lines) and the heater by-pass valves. I also see some opt to use a small air compressor (with appropriate regulator) to pressurize/blowout the water system. I plan to buy one of these for tire pressure maintenance anyway. The potable water compatible (non-toxic) anti-freeze solutions look to be go to -50F which should cover those occasional really cold spells we can get here in MT. On the other hand, if blowing out the system leaves only trace amounts in low spots like -p-traps, wouldn't just adding anti-freeze to those and the toilet be better?
How long does it take to purge out the antifreeze on next fresh water use - any residual taste/smell?
What method has worked best for you?
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I have the Progressive Industries EMS-PT-30X. I'll have to see how it plays with Honda inverter generators.
Just spoke with Roger at Micro-Air and his recommendation is that I purchase the Honda 2000's. Because we live at 5200' elevation and a good portion of our travels will be in the Rocky Mountains, he thinks we need to offset the elevation related power reduction. He's certain the paired set will have no issue starting our Coleman 13.5k BTU AC.
The addition of the Easy Start 364 will simply reduce the typical start-up noise (clunk) and also provide the means of starting the AC on one 2000 watt generator should we opt/need to. The issue with using a 2000 or 2400 watt generator is not only the start up, but the current draw while running. If for instance the on board power controller switches the house battery tender on while the AC is running, it can overload and shut down. Same problem can happen if the water pump is activated... the small generators are running so close to their limit, that it does not take much to trip the circuit. In a nut shell, if we want to be able to run the AC and some other limited amount of house items (lights, water pump, bath fan), we need something more than a 2000 watt unit.
Given that I don't want to try and horse the size/weight of the EU3000i (or like size competitor) onto the cargo storage deck, I'm back to my original plan to but the paired Honda 2000's. I'm still going to add the Easy Start simply because it will likely eliminate any chance of having the system trip from the spike current load of AC start.
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Any issues with error codes on the Surge Guard? One responder to the other thread you shared stated he gets an error but that everything still works... believe it had to do with the ground set-up. I'm going to contact Micro-Air today and describe exactly what I have by way of roof ac, coach power controller unit, portable surge protector, and planned generator to see if they have any advice.
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On 8/10/2017 at 11:33 AM, Kirk Wood said:
All that you need is the smallest one, at $299.
If you choose to go with the Easy Start, then I suggest you buy only one and make that the Honda 200i or possibly the Yamaha of that same type.With either one of these, you can later buy a second one and a parallel kit if you should choose to get more power supply.
Kirk, are you just using a common adapter between one of the generator outlets and the RV's power cord?
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Cargo/generator storage deck on the A-frame. Stromberg-Carlson unit, very well made and very sturdy. $189 and takes about an hour to install.
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Just read the Easy Start website... looks like a really great option/addition for using generator power source (thanks Kirk!). Thought I'd add this link about DIY installation which, by all accounts on the customer reviews, looks pretty easy. This provides lots of details about the what, how, and why of the device. I'm sold!
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2 minutes ago, trailertraveler said:
Some of the surge protector/EMS systems will not pass the power from some of the small generators that do not have the ground and neutral bonded. Others will pass the current but display an error code. There are some folks that recommend making a plug with the ground and neutral connected and inserting that in one of the generators outlets. Yamaha recommends against doing this on their small generators that do not have the ground and neutral bonded. My old surge guard was one that would pass the power and display an error code. I used it all the time with no problem. The replacement when it failed will not pass the power so I now use the generator without it.
Hmm, more little details to consider. I suppose their is less chance of a generator fouling the house power control unit, as opposed to a utility connection, but don't really know. Thank you for the information.
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While we're on the subject or generators and various set-up options, do those that use surge protectors during normal power service connection also use these on their generators?
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Well, to be clear, I'm in the info gathering mode like you are. My decision to go with the dual 2000 units is partly due to forum feedback on my "generator" thread on this forum. I believe most of the generators have a 30 amp outlet - though some may require an adapter. One of the responders to my thread brought up the "dual" (gas and propane) fuel option and that certainly would be a great option to have. I'm going to look into whether the Honda's can be set up that way and what's involved.
Hopefully a few of the forums seasoned pro's will weigh in on your questions.
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Most of the generator mfg.'s. list the output capability and often what size RV AC it can handle. What I am hearing first hand from folks who have learned by trial, is that they are often overrated. For instance, the Honda EU3000i says it handles the 13.5K BTU units but two have told me they struggle under certain conditions. One switched to the dual Honda EU2000's run in parallel and can now run everything without any issue. 8000 is fairly small and I suspect the EU3000i would work fine. Another option might be the Yamaha 2400. But, for the same price, you can get two 2000's, have 4000 watts, are much easier to move around, and can also use them separately as needed.
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6 hours ago, TireHobby said:
Been watching this thread for awhile. Very hard to give answers without knowing the trailer’s actual tires specs. But I can answer some of the questions with hypothetical analogies.
I looked at the current specs for 19” KZ TTs. Some are 3500# GVWR and others are 4000# GVWR. Some have 14” tires and others have 15” tires.
Tire fitments are not at the whim of the trailer builder. They must be appropriate for each GAWR. The specific information can be found on the trailer’s federal certification label. Tire placard and in the vehicle owner’s manual. The certification label has a standard physical location on trailers. It’s onj the LH forward external section of the trailer. Normally the tire placard will also be displayed in the same location.
The tire size (s) listed on the certification label must be the same size as those installed on the trailer at the time of first sale. Those Original Equipment (OE) tires set the standard for all subsequent replacements. Industry standards require replacement tires to have a load capacity equal to or greater than the OE tires.
It is often very difficult the use replacement tires for ST tires in the 14” - 15” diameter range with tires from another design (P/LT). Even if some are found that will work the tire industry frowns on such applications and may void all warranty coverage for such fitments. Most trailer owner’s manuals will have a canned statement such as this; “To maintain tire safety, purchase new tires that are the same size as the vehicle’s original tires or another size
recommended by the manufacturer.”Another problem with 14” & 15” tires is the wheel/rim load and psi limits. Trailers with that sized tires are often built very close to the specs to keep costs low. Therefore, a LRD tire of the same size as an OE LRC tire might exceed the OE wheel/rim assembly’s load and/or PSI limits.
ST tires work well when properly maintained and operated within their design specifications. However, like other highway tires they need load capacity reserves to offset degrading. Unlike other DOT highway tires, load capacity reserves are not factored into the fitment equation for RV trailer tires.
Brands? What works for the goose may not work for the gander.
If an owner does not, at least once in awhile, find out what each tire is carrying, load wise, brands wont make a difference. One might last a little longer than another but in the end the overloaded tire is going to fail.
Best fitments? Go up a load range and air all tires to the recommended sidewall pressures.
The rims on our StarCraft are aluminum and I was not able to locate any stamped information on maximum psi rating (looked on both sides). I did see that Power King offers my size tires in both 'D' and 'E' rating. It appears a couple of the other most common ST brands also offer these higher ratings. For the added capacity and, hopefully some improved road survival, I plan to buy the highest capacity available.
It's odd that the DOT does not require load capacity reserve be built into RV tires. It's more likely that loads would be exceeded on RV's than cars IMHO.
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RV mattress suggestion?
in General RV Information
Posted
Our StarCraft TT came with an upgraded "Denver Plush Comfort" mattress. We both said we'd hate to have seen and slept on the base model mattress
. We purchased from mattressinsider.com and opted for the regular length queen 8" Gel Foam. We absolutely love it. They have great customer service, a super satisfaction guarantee, and often have great sale promotions.